Ascensions dans Petra par jim bean

Needs more cleaning

Almost did the second crux and some progress on the first. The heat wave doesn't help either.

Really dont know how to grade this one, actually its an one-mover dyno from 2 terrible holds and could be from 7a+ to 7b+. I will go with 7b and repeaters will tell if i was right or not.

Warm up

I remember it being hard and calling it a possible 7c last year. Today i did the dyno for the first time and didn't seem so hard, for sure being lighter and stronger helps. Last year i couldn't hold the very bad sloppy crimp... Very beautiful though.

Somehow i managed . 2 power endurance cruxes with not so good rest in between 7b my proposal.

Too hot to send but found better beta for the finale of the second crux.

When a did the fa i kept as direct as i could so i thought 7a was ok. But that's not the easiest way its obvious that u bridge to the left and becomes much easier so i think 6c is the appropriate grade with this new beta.

Started cleaning this one, hard bouldery start to slab to bouldery finale.

Cleaned and did all the moves.

A first attempt lost at the second crux. 2 cruxes with the second the longest , very beautiful power endurance moves on sloppers sidepulls and crimps.

Maybe 6c+ suits better.

Another bouldery gem on the orange wall. Cleaned and did most of it apart the last moves before the anchor. Power endurance moves on sidepulls and sloppers with bad feet.

Would have been a classic if it weren't for the sharp 2 finger pocket on the crux.

Warm up

Finally with morning cooler temps went on the second attempt. Its hard and maybe morpho for the shorter but i will stick with 7b+ hard, nearly 7c but not.

Again bad timing too hot to send but did some good linking and figure out one hard clip. Its not that hard but its very conditions dependant with the slopper compression crux.

Wrong timing too hot to send, just remembering moves.

Did it directly with precliped the second bolt, boulder crux at the start with good monos 6c?.

Same highpoint, very bad hot conditions for compression moves and sloppers today. So nice moves though.

First real attempt, i have done all the moves but haven't really linked the middle part (3 crux on top of each other). Highpoint one move before the foot off dyno.

Did it without the tree, really nice slab with boulder prob at the start.

When i did the first ascent i thought it was 6c but now i think its actually a solid 6b+

Had done almost all moves apart a linking of the middle part that contains a fridge. Thought i could bypass the fridge and avoid the compression moves on the overhang. But there is no way to avoid the fridge so after the first 7a you have a ledge and then a 6c/+ to a 6C compression boulder to a 7a till the end. Harder than what i thought but amazing compression moves 7b+/c??.

Very bad hot conditions to try this hard slab, but i did some progress on the first crux. Hard wall climbing on minimal holds with terrible slopper-slippery feet...a total nightmare.

Cleaned saw and did most of the moves. After the first anchor starts a 35/40 degree overhanging wall with compression moves and a fridge, that leads to a less overhanging wall with good holds. Amazing climbing.

Cleaned and send, amazing power endurance start with very beautiful continuous bouldery moves. Easier than gritzeli but harder than the other 7as of the crag my suggestion 7a/+.

He who says short routes suck haven't tried this short beauty. Amazing technical slab with sustained difficulty from the start till the end.

A desperate vertical slab, needs good footwork and finger strength. 3 cruxes on top of each other, just saw a bit the first. Hard.

Very beautiful vertical crimpy wall, still think it's a 6c.

Saw and almost did the crux, hard long dyno to a slopper 7c?.

Endurance training

Repeated this one today with better conditions than the first ascent to check the grade. For sure 7a+ and not 7a/+, hard transition from a bad slopper to a better hold and dyno. Harder for the short.

Cleaned and send,very nice route overhanging start and late crux.

Last

Cleaned and saw some moves.

Saw and did most of the moves of the crux, realized that the 2 bolts at the crux are in the wrong places and need replacing. The crux seems hard but doable with a dyno to a big slopper .