Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dim 16 Juin 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Shadowlines | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Amicus
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
|
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Dim 9 Juin 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Gentlemens Drag
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Clean repeat on TRS. There was a toprope hanging down it, so I did a second warmup on TRS. Felt about gr22 today, and just a joy to climb. I also found 3 no-hands rests in the top 2/3rds! Maybe the Blueys best pitch of crack?
|
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Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Shadowlines | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The VIII
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
My favourite of the routes on this wall. A rad start up a corner/crack feature, then continuous climbing on great rock, with quite a few tricky moves. The pockets near the top are wickedly cool.
|
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23 |
★★★ The 7a
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climbing. Reminds me of Theory of Negativity -albeit, less funky features- though longer. Only a brief crux.
|
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23 |
★ The E3 6a
![]() | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
Seconding Neil to exit the crag. The moves were great, but the rock was friable at times (which meant I was more concerned about breaking something, than enjoying the climbing itself).
|
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Dim 5 Mai 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
26 Facile |
★★★ Gaze a Gazely Stare
![]() | 55m | ★★★ Classique | |||
2 laps on TRS for training. Trying to build some steep fitness again! Despite being bell-quality-rock, I just find this super steep pupper so much fun!
|
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Mer 3 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
25 Difficile |
★★ Being and Nothingness (2nd Edition)
![]() | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean Repeat TRS.
After chopping the original (crappy) start, re-jigging the bolts in the upper section, repairing a super key broken hold (that was forcing a weird "round the world" sequence, and meant the crux bolts were all in the wrong place), and developing a whole new (gr21) start, I needed to see if my efforts had borne fruit. In short, this is now one of my favourite routes on the wall. I'd call it 2nd best after Life of Riley. Its rad that with a bit more route development experience, and a bit of time and effort, this route -that has always frustrated me for having a crappy lower half, and a good but poorly arranged upper half- is now one of my favourite sporty sport routes I've put up. I really hope this gets more traffic now, because it deserves it. Incidentally, the gr21 Bottom section (25m to the first anchor) is proper good climbing, and would happily stand next to such contemporaries at Cosmic County. |
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Dim 10 Mars 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Mister Bean
![]() | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat. 2 Laps. Truth be told, I fell off the bulge-boulder below the arete on my first lap, but corrected it on the second. A mixed bag of quality, and the arete itself is really easy, but it was still fun enough. Pretty much every hard move is escapable if you stray from the bolts a bit.
|
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23 |
★★ Fuzzy Logic
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Repeat. Been a long time since I onsighted this. Though I found it easy today, I didn't really enjoy it. Very contrived, and on average (grainy) rock. A few cool moves, though.
|
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22 ~23 |
★★ Just Technical
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat. 2 Laps for training. Damn I love this thing
|
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Sam 9 Mars 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
22 R |
★★★ Memorable Moves
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Repeat. My favourite route at Windjammer. Felt super relaxed and in control on it today, and got to the top without a pump.
|
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Sam 9 Mars 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Bad Luck Streak
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat. I remember this feeling nails, but I absolutely cruised it today. Super obvious, and super pleasant crack climbing.
|
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22 |
★★★ Northern Exposure
![]() | 30m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat. I forgot how sustained this was. With my current form, I just barely squeaked it, to be honest.
|
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21 |
★★★ Rex Hunt's Love Child
![]() | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat. This is just a really fun climb, and not too hard at the grade. Feeling good on the slow return-to-form after 5 months on the couch.
|
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Jeu 28 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Wizard of lce
![]() | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconding Jacques. Hardly a proud or inspiring line, but it is a worthy challenge that had both of us grunting with effort.
|
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Dim 24 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
17 |
★ Oh Bondage
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Seconding Gezza. Man, what a rad finish at the grade. Committing, despite appearances.
|
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Jeu 21 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Kachoong
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Lucas to get the gear back. Campused the roof for a laugh. What an iconic route!
|
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Jeu 21 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 |
★★★ A Taste of Honey
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Jenga to get the gear back. Just goooood fun!
|
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Mer 20 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
12 |
★★ Dunes
![]() | 100m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean Repeat -seconding Jenga. Route 2 of 2 of our speedy early morning ramble. Probably better than Eskimo Nell (and much better than I remember it).
|
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10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat -seconding Jenga. Route 1 of 2 in a speedy before-breakfast push to work up an appetite. Just a classic easy outing.
|
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Dim 17 Sept 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
20 |
★★ Wild Arts
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Seconding Simmo. Climbed as a giant 50m pitch. Absolutely awesome in this manner, eith a super cool finale up the face.
|
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Dim 10 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls | ||||||
25 |
★★★ The Terrible Truth About Time
![]() | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Stacked! So many dropable moves the whole way up. A face-climbing connoisseur's delight! Seconding the First Ascent clean -I almost came unstuck when the FA decided to use a locked locking bina bolt-side at the hardest crux, resulting in some mid-crux desperation. A classic for sure.
|
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Dim 9 Juil 2023 - Kiama | ||||||
Bombo Quarry Bollocks wall | ||||||
17 ~18 |
★★ Drowning In a Sea of Bollocks
![]() | 19m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconding Simmo. Wasn't planning on doing this, but Simmo made it look super-fun, and so I followed him up it. Really interesting, varied and insecure climbing (especially at the start) that packs a punch for such a short route.
|
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Jeu 15 Juin 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ghidrah | ||||||
25 |
★★★ King Geedorah
![]() | 70m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Same-day TRS repeat (clean) to climb out. Dreaaaaaaaaaaaamy.
|
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Dim 14 Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
26 Facile |
★★★ Gaze a Gazely Stare
![]() | 55m | ★★ Excellent | |||
TRS lap to retrieve my trad gear from this route. Good casual pumping. I'm back up to having 3 racks of gear now! (its been a few months of sparsity with only 1 rack of gear in my posession).
|
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Dim 16 Avr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Subliminated
![]() | 110m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Repeat. Clean TRS lap for fitness. Probably prouder than the original Subliminal, but shares too much of the same climbing to usurp its classic status.
|
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Sam 15 Avr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | ||||||
23 |
★★★ The House of Meat
![]() | 40m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. TRS. This was probably the best of the routes I did here today. I found the two cruxes on this kinda hard -though it might just be post-covid fatigue.
|
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22 |
★★ Much of a Muchness
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. TRS. Not much harder than This Sporting Life, really.
|
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21 |
★★ Rampaging Roy
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. TRS. A really cool steep section.
|
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20 |
★★★ This Sporting Life
![]() | 43m, 15 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. TRS for fitness after 2 weeks sick in bed. Pleasant face climbing on the 2nd pitch, with nice rock!
|
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Mer 5 Avr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Toni Schmid Gedenkwand | ||||||
9- |
★★★ Mambo Cavallero
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Cool feature, though not as proud as it looks from the ground. Given how much climbing it shares with its righthand neighbour, it wasn't substantially harder (maybe a grade, or so?) Last climb of the trip, and down to the wire, so no time for the proper red point, though its not any harder than the cheeky toppy.
|
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Dim 26 Fév 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Mr Logistics
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Now this was the surprise of the day!
Looks kinda ordinary, feels a bit contrived, is short for a Point P route, and has rather gritty/grainy rock... But damn is it action packed from start to finish. I'll come back to do a proper tick on lead for this one! Super strenuous and technical arete climbing, with some very demanding moves (I used 2 very improbable back-heels, and a drive-by cutloose as the secret to my success). |
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Dim 26 Fév 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
22 ~23 |
★★ Just Technical
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classique | |||
2 Laps to warmup -the second with 10kgs of extra weight for training.
Still hard at the grade, but still super awesome for such a short route. Steep technical pocket cranking in an exposed position FTW. |
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Dim 26 Fév 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
26 ~24 |
★★ Seamstress
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really cool climbing on some of the best rock on this wall, with better gear and easier moves than I expected (not much harder than Dirty Dancing's finale placing, IMHO). A shame its not an independent line, or it would surely earn "classic" from me. Should see more ascents, though
|
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Dim 15 Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Adventure Park Ecstasy | ||||||
24 |
★★★ On a String and a Prayer
![]()
4
Still hard at the grade! I was pretty psyched to get this done straight up, though it was by the skin of my teeth... that last sustained crimp section is tough!
5
24
Not too hard at the grade. A short pitch, but just awesome climbing from start to finish. The mono-crux is very unlikely, but bloody awesome. Pretty chuffed to punch it out without any real troubles.
6
Clean Repeat.
7
Clean Repeat. Even tired at the end of the day, this was hilariously fun | 140m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Coming back to try and clean up the pitches I didn't get clean last time.
Unfortunately, the ropes I brought weren't long enough to get to the belay below P3, so for now that pitch will have to remain un-sent. It was bloody hot out here today, but the route was still great. |
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Lun 9 Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Malaita Wall Merl Wall | ||||||
24 ~24 |
★★ Merl
![]()
1
grimpé en tête par
Heath Black
| 70m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Seconding Niel to exit the crag. Second clean P1 and P2 -at least this gave me a chance to climb P1 clean (albeit on second, though taking off the bolt plates). At the end of the day, I was bloody tired, and this felt like hard work.
|
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Dim 18 Déc 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
22 |
FA
★★ Rookies of the Future
![]() | 120m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Supporting Mitch on the First Ascent
An awesome, mid-length multi, with no boring bits, and nothing too hard. Might be one of the best multis in this grade range (I guess the competition would be routes like Saccharine Nightmare or Yak Banquet?). P2 was my favourite |
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Jeu 1 Déc 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Textures of Consciousness
![]() | 70m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Simmo after the First Ascent. Still bloody great.
|
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Mer 19 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Adventure Park Ecstasy | ||||||
24 |
★★★ After Life
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classique | |||
All 4 pitches clean on second. Seconding Monty on the First Ascent. A bloody great line, where access is a cruise, and the first 3 pitches are all worth a full 3 stars. Great rock, great position, and quite sustained. Happy to have been a part of this process.
|
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Sam 8 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 |
★★ Swinging In The Rain
![]() | 20m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Haven't been on this in years, and I was pretty chuffed to have no real troubles with the crux on it. Just a bloody great route, Jenga!
|
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22 |
★★ La Niña
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Still a well-conceived quest around the face.
|
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Sam 8 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
22 |
★★ Sanction of the Victim
![]() | 22m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. This has got to be one of the coolest steep sport routes at the grade, right?
|
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Ven 7 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left | ||||||
20 |
★★ Kraut Pleaser
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Just the right amount of warmup
|
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Jeu 6 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 |
★★ Driven
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. My favourite of the mid-grade routes here. Always happy to chuck a lap.
|
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21 |
★★ Flash Flood
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. My favourite of the easy routes. Climbed this after up-climbing and down-climbing La Nina for a ~60m easy epic.
|
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22 |
★★ La Niña
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Downclimbed clean for some extra pump.
|
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21 |
★★ Thirty Three Years
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Cruisy and oozy.
|
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18 |
★ Please Dry
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Clean repeat. Good for what it is.
|
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Mar 4 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress
![]() | 270m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat. Giving The Mullet himself the guided tour of the Blueys.
Still a great romp at the grade. |
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Lun 3 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Valley Farm | ||||||
23 22 |
★★ Street Legal
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat.
Sooooooo good! Gotto be one of the best, right? From the 3rd bolt up, this is all pure class. |
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Lun 3 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Wake of the Flood
![]() | 50m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat. Climbed as a giant pitch from the ground. Man, that top boulder is still nails (I fell off it all the way back to the ledge, then reclimbed the top pitch clean from there placing gear).
I used 2 ropes, but only clipped one for the first 2 pitches, and the other for the final boulder. With a bit of strategy with gear placements and runners, there was no drag whatsoever. For the giant single pitch, bring a double rack 0.3 - 2, and a single #0.2 and #3, as well as an extra 0.5, 0.75 and 1. Wires optional. |
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Dim 2 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
23 |
★★ Funky Venga Bus
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat. Cruised it this time. Great warm up.
|
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Dim 2 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Sensory Overload
![]() | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat. Dreamy for a sport climb.
|
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Sam 1 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
23 |
★★ Funky Venga Bus
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat. It'd been quite a few months since I last did this, and I almost fell off today!
|
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26 25 |
★★★ Locus of Control
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
One the best here, for sure. Just bloody great pocket-oozing up the crux finale, followed by a burly, engaging crux. Rock is just unerringly cool! I did this with a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands rest while it was still a project.
|
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Dim 18 Sept 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls | ||||||
21 |
★ Spring Loaded
![]() | 60m | ★ Bon | |||
Seconding Monty.
P2 is genuinely good, but P1 and P3 are rather junk (even regarding them as "access pitches".) The money pitch is varied, steep, exposed, well-protected, and super funky. Probably quite hard at the grade, in reality. Beware: the FH at the end of P1 is in a barely-attached teetering block (don't trust it!), and P3 is basically a bolted pitch... except for the unprotected start off the belay on the hardest move of the pitch. |
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Sam 3 Sept 2022 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
23 |
★★ Early Bird
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Been a long time since I've been on this one, and I was pretty happy just to punch it straight out, given the rather bouldery start (post hold-breakage). Quite good!
|
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24 22 |
★ Smack Crack
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Repeat. Basically, 3 mantles, to a no-hands rest, followed by an utterly brutal boulder problem that I'm calling 24. Not a good warmup!
|
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Mer 31 Août 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
12 |
★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start
![]() | 19m | ★★ Excellent | |||
2 laps on TRS today to access the upper ledge.
|
||||||
Sam 20 Août 2022 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The Junkyard Dog
![]() | 17m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Fun fun fun!
|
||||||
Mer 10 Août 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Glenbrook Gorge South-Eastern Wall | ||||||
21 |
★★ The Venom
![]()
1
18
40m
2
17
20m
3
21
30m
4
18
15m
| 110m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Surely one of the best lines in the Gorge? Even quite wet today (after all the rain) this was really rad -and quite gripping. Though untrafficked and a touch loose (it is Glenbrook Gorge, after all) the rock is generally pretty good, and the route takes the plum line up the proudest part of the raddest wall.
Onsight but for P2, which I'd actually climbed previously as part of another route. I definitely found committing to the crux on P3 quite intense, as it's not obvious where it goes. All I'd say is: follow the gear. |
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Dim 7 Août 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower | ||||||
17 |
★★ St Clemmen's Crack
![]() | 50m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Seconding Monty. I still love this route. Sure, it has a few sections of average rock, but I'd say they're offset by far more interesting climbing than your usual easy-grade crack fare.
|
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Lun 1 Août 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 |
★ Juice on the Loose
![]() | 12m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. Draw retrieval lap. Still good steep fun.
|
||||||
21 |
★★ Thirty Three Years
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconding Simmo to get to the upper ledge.
|
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Dim 24 Juil 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass La La Land Area | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Legoland
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean repeat. Even running with water, this thing is bloody brilliant. So many cool features.
|
||||||
Mer 13 Juil 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Thrustblock Area | ||||||
23 |
★★★ The Mind Boggles
![]() | 40m, 18 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Clean Repeat. Just the first ~30m (to the lower anchors) as a warmup. Even better than I remember! Damn, this has to be one of the best 3 23's in the Blueys! You know its good, when it's so cold I can't feel my fingers, but I'm still frothing the climb!
|
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Sam 9 Juil 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Kizashi
![]() | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean Repeat. One of my favourite 25's in the Blueys. Good training.
|
||||||
23 |
★★ Reigning Steel
![]() | 17m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Great warmup as always. OMG, the conditions were amazing!
|
||||||
Ven 24 Juin 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Teenage Buttress | ||||||
24 ~25 |
★★★ I Was a Teenager For the CIA
![]() | 58m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Backlogging (lost ticks on TheCrag... again). Clean repeat. Seconding Matt on both pitches. Amazing climbing, but bloody hard at the grade!
|
||||||
Mer 1 Juin 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
12 |
★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start
![]() | 19m | ★★ Excellent | |||
TRS to gain the upper ledge. Even in approach shoes, this is just a beautiful crack climb at the grade.
|
||||||
Mer 18 Mai 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
22 |
★★ Thai Virus
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconding Michael and Will! A few hard moves, but great climbing and pleasant rock.
|
||||||
Dim 15 Mai 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
23 |
★★ The Never Believers
![]() | 15m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. I haven't been back on this years, which is weird, cause its loads of steep, juggy, thuggy fun!
|
||||||
Jeu 12 Mai 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Neon God
![]()
1
22
25m
2
25
25m
| 50m | ★★★ Classique | |||
TRS Clean both pitches. Good to get back on this years after I last did it, and repeat it without too much difficulty even sans chalk. P2 is quite sustained and continuous in its two halves, with very rad moves up an incipient series of seams. I enjoyed this way more today than I did last time.
|
||||||
23 |
★★ The Holy Road
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
TRS clean. Surprisingly worthwhile, and not as contrived as I was expecting from some of the comments here (certainly no more contrived than Neon God P2). Challenging thin sequences between good stances. This didn't seem too hard in the style even absent chalk.
|
||||||
Mer 11 Mai 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
The Block | ||||||
26 |
★★ Stiff Upper Cock
![]() | 12m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
TRS Clean 2nd shot. I wanted to give this a lap now that it's no longer a closed project, but absent belayer, TRS will have to do. I've given this little gem classic, because I just can't imagine 12m of climbing getting much better (Great rock, super sustained, complex, technical moves, a very obvious line... even the initial gr21 crack section was engaging with bombproof rock).
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Ven 6 Mai 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall | ||||||
12 |
★★★ Apline
![]() | 70m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Clean repeat. An evening lap before dinner. Heavenly.
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Mar 3 Mai 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
23 |
★★ Fire in the sky
![]() | 30m, 16 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. Even after all these years and laps, this doesn't get any easier. Damn its sustained!
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Lun 2 Mai 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
23 |
★★ Smoke on the Water
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Totally worthwhile technical face climbing. This has cleaned up well over the years.
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Dim 1 Mai 2022 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Totem Pole | ||||||
27 |
★★★ The Sorcerer
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1
22
10m
2
25
15m
3
27
40m
| 65m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Early birthday present! What a rad outing. Like the Free Route, but with proper physical, burly climbing. The crux pitch is very sustained in the bottom half. Gale force winds made this a griping, shivering, barn-dooring experience.
P1 - Self-belay shennanigans after the belay got dumped by waves. After self-belaying to the end-of-pitch anchor, I fixed the rope there, and back-tracked to undo my self-belay anchor so Jared could rap all the way to the P2 belay from the mainland. P2 - Hard fought, unchalked onsight. The top 5m is fierce arete slapping. I almost gave up at the last bolt as I struggled to clip mid-barndoor, but just squeaked it. P3 - 4th shot total (including onsight attempt and a TRS lap). On my 3rd shot I fell off on tbe last move of the last hard sequence. Stacked techo climbing, with no shutdown crux. |
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Jeu 28 Avr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Maelstrom Wall | ||||||
21 |
★★★ White Noise
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Seconding Michael. Yep, deserves the rep. Quality rock, classy climbing, very unlikely at the grade. A total joy to climb.
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Jeu 28 Avr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Bull Pinnacle | ||||||
21 |
★★ Zugzwang
![]() | 20m, 12 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconding Michael. The rock is a bit crunchy, but the climbing is rad, insecure and gripping. The bottom half is the money, and seemed hard at the grade to me. Be sure to make the most of the arete through the crux.
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Mar 5 Avr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
12 |
★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start
![]() | 19m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. TRS to get to the halfway ledge. This is a really good pitch of climbing, with nice rock and interesting moves. Probably deserves more traffic as an introductory trad route.
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19 |
★★ Birthday Bolts
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Climbed to get to the upper ledge. Man, this has cleaned up really well from when I last did it.
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Dim 3 Avr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
21 |
★★ Thirty Three Years
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Gavin to get to the upper ledge.
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Dim 27 Mars 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Armistice
![]() | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Kinda a retro-flash (thanks to Monty's draws, chalk, and perfect beta), but I didn't do the moves onto the headwall. If it ever stops raining, hopefully I'll improve the style by doing the last move, but regardless, it was a bloody great experience to have again (9 years after joining Monty on the first Ascent!)
Despite being a bit annoying to get to, this is certainly one of the best quality routes at Binary Cave. Crazy steep climbing in a rad position, with really interesting moves the whole way. |
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21 |
★★ Thirty Three Years
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Monty to get to the upper tier.
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Sam 26 Mars 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Echo Crack
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean Repeat (mostly -the tippy top move was a muddy waterfall, so I stood on a carrot bolt to mantle out) in proper torrential conditions to escape the bottom of this wall at the end of a long day of adventuring. Top tip: Echo Crack is climbable after (and during) record-breaking rain, but it's quite a bit more exciting.
Climbed in via a left hand variant (around the other side of the left arete where we were sussing a new gear line "ground up") to arrive in the final moves of the ordinary gr25 crux. This version was probably harder than the original, and certainly scarier. We were rather undergunned in the #3 cam department, and I climbed the top (gr22 pitch) using 4 x #3s, 2 x #4's and a #5 in 40m... I'll readily admit that I was rather gripped. If you could scrounge like 7 x #3's for the top pitch, it would be a pleasant cruise. |
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Mer 9 Mars 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
21 |
★★ Thirty Three Years
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Willby to get to the half-way ledge. Has one move that you have to pull on.
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Dim 20 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Colliery South Cliffs | ||||||
19 |
★★★ FIFO Hooker
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Clean Repeat Seconding Mont. Even all these years later, this is just a bloody great crack climb. Quite a fair bit more demanding than similar graded routes at Piddo or Cosmic.
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Mer 5 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 23 |
★★ Summer of Rain
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. Almost fell off the top this time.
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Mar 4 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 23 |
★★ Summer of Rain
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. Lapping.
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Lun 3 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 23 |
★★ Summer of Rain
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat - Warming up.
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Dim 2 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 23 |
★★ Summer of Rain
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat.
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Sam 1 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 ~23 |
★ For the Fans and Non Believers
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
TRS clean before the route was bolted. Quite enjoyable right-leaning face climbing, with a surprisingly tricky start.
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Mer 15 Déc 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hocus Pocus Area | ||||||
23 |
★★ Beginners' Steps
![]() | 47m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat, seconding Monty. Still great climbing in a great position, shame it's so short.
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Sam 11 Déc 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
19 |
★★ Call Out Culture
![]() | 95m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconding Lucy on her Birthday multipitch. Linked Pitches 1 and 2 into a MegaPitch™ at about 45m in length, and to a more obvious belay.
We felt that an abundance of Large Cams was overkill (more #1's and lots of slings seemed a better option), but we wished we'd brought more Micros for the top of the 3rd pitch (we had 3). A fun adventure, with lots of Old Skool moves, but some major sections of rubbish rock. Pitch 2 and the top of Pitch 3 were the highlights. NOTE: Even after multiple weeks of torrential rain, only the top 8m or so of this get wet! |
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Dim 28 Nov. 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve
![]() | 75m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Clean repeat - EOD Pinkpoint lap to facilitate retrieving Marty Doolan 's in situ gear.
Man, sport trad is fun. |
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Sam 27 Nov. 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left | ||||||
24 |
★ Fox Force Five
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat. 2 bolts of surprisingly hard and sustained bouldering, then easier to the top. Shame the rock at the start is so average, because its great for the majority of it.
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22 |
★★ Shut the Gate
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean repeat. A rad ending, preceded by okay climbing.
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20 |
★★ Kraut Pleaser
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Clean Repeat - Good warmup, great rock.
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Subjectively, the start for me probably makes this route 26, but I suspect more compact climbers might find this not too bad, as there are plenty of options (making this not a "reachy" climb) but it is awkward and bunchy at my height.