Ascensions dans World comme Clean par Paul Frothy Thomson

P1 Clean repeat. Great to retick this in only a day, and some less-than-ideal conditions. x3 laps to score the retick. Really fun technical power-endurance climbing.

Another clean repeat, this time seconding Gavin on his successful pink-point. Dreeeeeeeamy

Clean repeat. Seconding Luke at the end of a double-send (of this route) day. Awesome!

Clean Repeat. Seconding Dave on his successful Red Point of this route. Sweeeeet. Felt pretty gnarly today after all my time on the proj, but fun fun fun.

Clean repeat, seconding Monty. It's been a long time since I've been on this, and I forgot how good it is. Probably the best moderately-graded arete in the Blueys, really.

Clean repeat. Still freaking awesome. Great to get back on this seconding Dave and just have a pleasant, stress-free lap. Samarkand, Echo Crack, Grasshopper, Top of the Pops and Thin Line of Reprieve... The mega classic must-do list for mid-20's trad climbing.

Clean repeat. Great upper section.

2 Laps Clean on TRS. P2 is where it's at. I made up a start doing a rising traverse up from Sidetracks because it looked more fun. Other than the death-runout start, this is actually quite well protected, and quite a lot of fun. The contrived crimp-crux at the end is rather desperate at the grade.

2 Laps Clean on TRS. P2 is the business: a rad start and arete crux (felt kinda hard to me... 23ish?), but features a deathy start on the face left of the arete (the crux is essentially unprotected). Possibly you're meant to climb the easier arete more direct at the start, but it was coated with lichen and looked disgusting.

The full gamut of emotions on this one. With not a drop of chalk on the crux pitch, I pushed and pushed on the onsight with every trick I had, only to eventually fall off between the last bolt and the anchor, in the final few moves (getting the wrong foot up on the arete).

Both pitches are brilliant in their own right (don't underestimate the 1st pitch, I fell off the first move as a warmup!), but it comes with some giant caveats that make it a mission to climb -not the least of which is the hideously positioned belay bolts, which necessitate a hanging belay, rather than just a semi-hanging belay with a few seconds of forethough as to their position. P2 is certainly one of the top 3 aretes in the Blueys, and reminds me of a more intense version of Teenager for the CIA. Certainly one of the most arete-y aretes in the mountains (and conveniently bolted, unlike Koyaan arete).

Seconding Magui to exit the crag. My patented "15 minute no-resting" speed free lap. Easy climbing or not, its amazing how pumped you can get smashing out 65m without a pause.

Seconding Monty. A fairly pleasant grey slab with a few proper techo slab moves. Enjoyable in the style.

Clean repeat. The headwall on this is bloody brilliant steep, powerful climbing in an inspiriting position. Coming into it from Sanction just makes the whole affair scrumptious.

Clean repeat. Always brilliant for a short route.

Decided to do the full Multi (since its the only one I haven't done on this wall). As a "multi" its probably a 1-star experience (most of the value being from the first pitch), and I definitely don't recommend doing the "mantle top-out walkoff" nightmare.

P1 - Clean Repeat (originally onsight). P2 - 2nd shot. 1 move from the onsight! I tried so bloody hard. Not a drop of chalk on this thing. The last 5m before the ledge is extremely intense techo crimping, but otherwise its fairly easy. P3 - Clean Repeat (originally onsight) - Sections of good climbing, but lots of crap rock to degrade the experience. The crux on this is a proper hard reach. Would be interesting to see a shorty on it.

Seconding Monty. Pretty good for a shortish Blueys easy trad route. Kinda hard at the grade. Bring oodles of #1 's.

3 x Repeat laps as a part of the mega two-rope link project. Managed P1 clean on the 2nd lap even with the extra weight/screw-around of managing two ropes, but bungled the 1st crux of P2 on the link. Very draining. On an aborted 4th lap I could barely bolt-to-bolt the route, and then struggled to jumaar out afterwards.

Repeat. Seconding Monty at EOD. Better than I remember it, and surprisingly hard for an arete that looks comically easy. Very worthwhile.

Seconding Monty. Good steepish crimping in an exposed position, and not too hard for the grade... But difficult to enjoy it when I couldn't feel my fingers at all. Alas, I forgot my down suit and ice axes.

Seconding Monty. Pitches 2 and 3 in particular are awesome, though 1 and 4 are relatively inoffensive

The grade of P2 (my favourite pitch) is somewhat disputed. I broke most of a key hold off at the crux, and had to power-scream my way through the new sequence to get it clean on Second. But whatever .

Tried to climb this as a 70m pitch from the ground. Despite hideous rope drag, I finally fell off on the last hard move of the route. A rather ambitious effort considering its "untrafficked" nature. Dragged Monty up to the belay, and we both sent the top pitch in a more rational style. Quite good rock and climbing (especially on the second pitch), and brilliant exposure at the grade. Take a 0.4 cam for the top!

Clean repeat. A great warmup, and a bloody great route. Never gets old

Second Clean. Seconding Neilio at EOD to exit the crag. Really quality climbing at the grade, probably the 2nd best route on the wall, all things considered? Hard start, then just sustained and interesting climbing on good holds to the tippy top.

2nd clean at EOD to exit the crag. A very hard start leads to easier (but still sustained) climbing with a few sneaky thin moves thrown in up top. Hard at the grade, as with everything else at this crag. Not as good as the other 24 as the rock quality isn't as high, and the climbing is more in the "painfully thin" rather than "technically hard" vein.

2nd Clean. Much better than Advanced Air Studio in climbing and rock quality (though quite a fair bit harder and with less exposure). A long pitch that just keeps getting harder, with lots of technical thin moves up top. Probably rather sandbagged. Still 22 even for this part of the world, maybe even 23 by modern standards.

2nd Clean at EOD to exit the crag. The route of the day for sure! Very sustained, unerringly thin, and probably the best rock I've seen on this wall. Probably entry-level 25 due to its relentlessness. Very complex moves. Really, the only negative is that the last 6m or so is not great rock.

Second clean. At the grade, this is a pretty outrageous position and climbing up cool features. Rock isn't perfect, and access is a bit tricky now that the rap-tree has burned down, but for an easy route its worthy. Scoopy.

Second clean. Seconding Neil to exit the crag after a day on this. Awesome, technical, sustained face/slab climbing, with a heart-breaker slab finish right when you're trashed.

TRS. Clean repeat. Cruised this as a giant 70m pitch for a warmup. Makes a good warmup Fingery start pitch to a mega slightly steep face middle pitch with loads of cool moves. 70m just flies by!

Clean repeat. Seconding Goshen rather than trying to clean the route on loweroff. Makes a great warmup, and is a proud line up an obvious feature.

Not worth the effort. A few metres of okay rock/climbing surrounded my lots of crud. Ending up off-route at the start didn't do much to add to the experience.

Repeat x 2. A bloody good warmup for the harder stuff, but quite intense! Just 15m of quality pocket-pulling.

TRS x 3. Short, but quite intense. Felt desperate in today's heat/humidity. Lots of very thin moves with surprising variety, and an interesting gristone finale.

The bolts are indeed glued-in thread with hangers and nuts. But this is a BYO spanner route, as the nuts undo themselves if a stiff breeze hits them. An absolutely bizarre effort of bolting.

TRS warmup. Disgusting conditions, but still a great climb. Seemed harder than I remember, though that might just be the spooge-factor.

TRS. Could be a true classic with a wire brushing and 1 more bolt. In its current state, I wouldn't recommend it. Craaaaaazy mossy at the moment.

The corner is better than it looks, and quite interesting. The face moves are punchy and overhanging, but easier than it looks... just almost entirely unprotected (but for 1 bolt, and bad gear behind detached small flakes).

Gear: 0.5 - 2 for the corner, 1 x bolt plate, fixed hanger, 0.3, a few terrible RP's/tiny wires in a cluster, 0.5, Slung flake, Upward-driven Red C3.

Seconding chris at the end of the day. Not easy for those of us with big hands. Quite feisty for such a short route. I crack climbed it direct, but it might be easier to layback it? Beautiful rock and great position.

Seconding Chris on the First Ascent. Not super hard physically, but possibly the sharpest crack I've ever climbed, to the point that I even wished I had taped for it (nevaaaah!). The green cam start up the overhanging crack requires some burliness. The rest of it just requires pain tolerance.

TRS - Repeat. Probably my favourite single pitch of climbing at Mount Buffalo. Great to get back on this all these years later and cruise up it. Beautiful technical face climbing.

TRS - Excitingly bolted hardcore friction slabbing. More masochistic than fun.

TRS Cleanly as part of working the Direct Finish. Absolutely freaking nails. 100% 28 in my mind, and probably the hardest face climb I know of in the Blueys. Finished via the last bolt of Aesthetic Images to make it a bit harder.

EOD lap clean on 2nd taking off the gear and bolt plates. No time (and mixed motivation) for another lap on lead, so this will have to suffice for the interim.