Ascensioni in World da Scott Godwin

Following Laura. Barefoot.

Seconding Laura

Thought I was over the man-flu. I was wrong. Felt terrible.

TR solo with a microtraxion. About ten laps.

Really good, but I struggled with the rattly finger locks at the start, and the felt pretty sketched trying to bridge on all the loose flakey footers. Not my finest effort...

First time back on this in ages. Tried on TR, took several goes to work out the crux sequence again. Still feels desperate. Not ready for the lead with that sketchy pro yet. Small offset nuts or peanuts are essential.

Slipped out of the wide fist jams.

This is getting ridiculous.

Tried to finish up the top pitch as a direct finish to NMMNG. Found it much harder than it looks. Dave ended up sending a line down for me to prussic up after I fell off and ended up swinging in space.

For whatever reason I got I bit spooked by the crazy location and didn't like the look of the unprotectable horizontal traverse near the end, so we decided to just top rope it on the rap line. An amazing pitch, and it turns out that the traversey bit is pretty easy (but still insecure and intimidating, even on top rope). Tried to finish directly up the steep crack at the top but pumped out about two moves from the end of the hard bit and ended up dangling in space and had to prussic out.

3 shots. First placing the gear, then two more with the gear pre placed. Kept pumping out at the last bolt.

Harder than it looks. Struggled to place the gear while laybacking. Did all the moves but had to sit a couple of times and use some aid climbing tricks to place the gear. Worth coming back to.

Seconded Laura on the first pitch, then I led the horrible sandbag fist crack chimney thing and finished up the airy boulder. Pretty exciting mantling the last bit about 3 m above the gear. Getting down is a bit of a hassle. A couple of rap bolts at the top might be a good idea.

Thought I had the rack for this sussed. Didn't quite have it right and spent too much time and energy faffing with gear down low. Didn't have enough juice left for the top and fell from the last crimp before the glory jug. Clean on top rope afterwards.

Backed off from the bolt. My shoulder didn't like the weird gaston moves.

Another lap to make sure it wasn't a fluke. Felt tired from climbing at the Ben yesterday but managed to perform for the sunday afternoon peanut gallery on the gorge walk. I'm sure they were secretly hoping that I'd fall off

There was a party on Ramadan when we arrived so we jumped on this first. Climbed as one long pitch to the top of the pillar. Definitely the way to go.

So good. 1st epic pitch only, then rapped.

No excuses not to lead this now. The wires all seem bomber.

Tickage. Finshed direct up the thin crack instead of doing the shoulder exploder move out to the right. Supposed to be a grade harder if you go direct but I actually found it a bit easier. 2nd shot today. 4 in total.

Was supposed to be a prelude to thin fiend, but after getting the rope stuck twice then repeatedly falling off this like a retard I thought I might come back another time.

Sandbagged by the guidebook. 'Easy roof' they said....I should have trusted my judgement that told me that a six inch wide, bottomless crack is never going to be easy. I don't think even an offwidth master would call this 18. I aided my way past it using a #6 cam. Andrew managed to layback it on second after pulling on the gear to get up to the chockstone. The solution is no doubt some desperate transition from offwidth thrashing to scary laybacking up the edge of the crack.

Seconding Laura

With Andrew. I led all pitches. Shoulder seemed to hold up ok.

Great second pitch. Climbed in the howling wind which added to the ambience. A #5 cam is very useful.

Really cool moves alternating between powerful and balancy, some of which I couldn't do.

First go at this one. Ground up. Sussed the gear and the moves. Pretty strenuous to protect at the start, but doable. Will be back for sure.

Managed the slippery trad cracks at the bottom ok but as usual I was stymied by the bolt protected face climbing. After falling onto the bolt a few times I bailed. No way that move is 18. Phil cruised it.

More or less onsight. Draws placed on the bolts on rap. Phil told me it was 22 so I was surprised to find it relatively easy. Bit of a one move wonder, but good, well, protected climbing. Done on the day the Shady side caught fire.

Good jamming, somewhat ruined by the unavoidable, probably loose, chockstone deathblock thing at the top.

A great way to spend a nice sunny day. I led all pitches. Good climbing on mostly good clean rock the whole way. Definitely significantly run out in places (10 + metres between gear), but not to the extent that others had told me. Pitch 5 felt a bit harder than 16, but the protection there is bomber.

Don't know why I hadn't done this before. Pretty good.