Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dom 15 Giu 2014 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Chessboard | ||||||
15 | ★ The Butterfly Climb | 8m | ★ Buona | |||
16 | ★ Enviromental Decay | 6m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
16 | ★ Revelation Six Sixteen | 15m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
18 | ★ Ligament Laxity | 15m | ★ Buona | |||
Stupid shoulder feeling pretty flakey again. Nothing hard for me today.
|
||||||
Dom 15 Giu 2014 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Ghost Rider | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Surprisingly awesome. Consistent, thought provoking moves the whole way.
|
||||||
Lun 9 Giu 2014 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Out of the Blue | 45m | ★ Buona | |||
Launched up this without any idea what it was. Climbed up as far as the grotty wide crack with the grass in the top, looked down at my gear 5m below my feet and the pointy ledge thing 5m below that and decided discretion was the better part of valour. Downclimbed back to my gear, built a belay to bring John up, then traversed 2m right into the next crack system over and finished easily to the top.
|
||||||
13 14 | ★★ The far right (Unnamed) | 50m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
With John. Really nice, cruisy long pitch.
|
||||||
Lun 9 Giu 2014 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ Ice Nine | 35m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Climbed it again to retrieve some gear for Baz.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin | 28m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Can't claim the onsight because I watched Phil climb it and looked at the gear for the upper slab on the way down from Ice Nine. Still very awesome though. Great steep jambing followed by nice crack and face climbing topped off with a scary runout slab. Great stuff.
|
||||||
Dom 8 Giu 2014 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Lassie's Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Road To Ruin | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
I think this is what I did with John? I think I might have done it before on the first visit years ago. Nice enough.
|
||||||
13 | ★ Artemus | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
With John.
|
||||||
Dom 8 Giu 2014 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Light Fingered Maddison | 15m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Took the opportunity to top rope it with Baz and Phil. Managed it clean first go but it felt pretty desperate. Its very excellent but I don't think I'm ready to lead this just yet. Potential ground fall from the ledge at 1/3 height.
|
||||||
Dom 8 Giu 2014 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ Ice Nine | 35m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Really good. Felt a bit tough for 15, which is what it gets in the guide.
|
||||||
Sab 7 Giu 2014 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Apline | 70m | ★★★ Classica | |||
With John. 1st multipitch for him (although it would probably be ok as one rope-stretching pitch). A pretty classic bumble in an unbeatable location.
|
||||||
Sab 31 Mag 2014 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Rabbit Trap Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Chilli Jam | 8m | ★ Buona | |||
Sab 31 Mag 2014 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Old Timers Buttresses | ||||||
17 | ★★ "You're Just a Tired Old Man Dad” | 9m, 2 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
16 | ★ Not Just a Pretty Face | 9m | ★ Buona | |||
Sab 31 Mag 2014 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Rabbit Trap Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Pets Prefer Purple | 12m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Tricky balancy slappy weirdness.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Anal Fist Fuck Four | 12m, 3 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
The only thing gayer than the name is the three bolts. Nice route though. I'll come back with some big cams and do it properly.
|
||||||
Sab 24 Mag 2014 - North Esk | ||||||
Riverbend | ||||||
19 | ★★ Kickstart | 11m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Really good. Struggled with the tricky start which was made considerably more tricky by being completely saturated and slimy with seepage.
|
||||||
19 | ★ Eiffel Tower | 12m, 2 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Following Baz and Phil. Great moves. Easier than it looks. Should have led it.
|
||||||
12 | ★ Stretching the limits of possibility | 12m | ★ Buona | |||
Nice.
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter | 14m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
With Baz and Phil. Struggled with an elusive fingerlock at about 1/3 height, pumped out came down for a rest. Swapped yo-yo style with Baz, who came down after doing all the hard moves. Clean to top on second go. Should get it next time. Awesome little route.
|
||||||
Mar 6 Mag 2014 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
10 | ★ Stonehinge | 12m, 3 | Media | |||
Cleaning topropes.
|
||||||
14 12 | ★ JAFKPR | 13m, 4 | Media | |||
Putting a top rope up for my workmates. Two moves then chossy bumbling to anchor.
|
||||||
Sab 3 Mag 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
The onsight attempt that I'd been putting off for ages. Felt pretty good all the way up to the crux steepness. Rested for ages in the nice jams then tried to climb through but couldn't make the fingerlock stick and fell. Got it relatively easily after a rest on the rope. Bummed to blow the onsight but happy that I finally got on this. Probably the best route I've done at Frog.
|
||||||
19 20 | ★★ Catharsis | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Good fun but a bit dirty. Didn't really feel any harder than Sacrilege Crack to me. Got my elbow stuck near the top. I was glad that Cam convinced me to take two # 6s.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Dom 27 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
14 15 | ★★ Toccata | 50m | ★★★ Classica | |||
With Laura. Continually interesting climbing on the first pitch, fun chimney moves on the second. Could easily be linked as one long pitch to the bolts.
|
||||||
Sab 26 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Kestrel | 50m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Seconding Laura. Really fun, long pitch.
|
||||||
Sab 26 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Fantastic route! Very solid for 19. Sat on the gear in the bouldery section down low . Couldn't get my fingers into the thin layback flake thing so had to suck it up and commit to the big moves between jugs. Clean the rest of the way. Awesome fun steep jammyness and funky bridging up high.
|
||||||
Ven 25 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Sensational overhanging jugs and jams with masses of bomber gear everywhere you look.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Finally got around to getting the falling out of my system on the second last day at Araps. This one was suitably hard. Fell onto a small brass nut down low, then came off three times at the upper finger lock crux before giving up and pulling through on gear, only to find the sneaky hold hidden over the lip. Maybe next time. Awesome route though, hard for the grade. Felt like it would get 22 at Frog.
|
||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★ Buona | |||
Seconding Laura.
|
||||||
Gio 24 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack | 95m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
Amazing. Full value for the grade. Huge atmosphere with scary run out moves to get established in the crack. Belayed on the big ledge then linked P2 and 3 from there to the 3 pin belay together, which worked well. Extra entertainment provided by our stupid friends doing Mr chicken at the same time.
|
||||||
Mer 23 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Scorpion Direct Start | 14m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Climbed to access Scorpion Crack. Can't believe I fell off this. Got crack vision and didn't find the face holds that make it way easier to pull past the wide section.
|
||||||
Mer 23 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Scorpion | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
Seconded Andrew up this uber classic scarefest. Kind of wish I'd scored the lead but we'd already made a deal. Awesome, old school trad thrashing up one of the most striking lines I've ever seen. Trying to clean the first bit of gear without falling off the ledge into the gaping void was entertaining. The spurt weanies have no idea what they're missing out on.
|
||||||
Mer 23 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
Fantastic absorbing climbing, fiddly small gear, slightly runout cruxy moves. Big smiles.
|
||||||
Mar 22 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Kaiser - Resignation | 99m | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
Third pitch is amazing.
|
||||||
Lun 21 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★★★ Classica | |||
With James. Incredible nut placements on the first pitch. Nearly ran out of draws because I was having so much fun sinking one bomber nut after another. Belayed in the cave then climbed right and up steep juggy wall above, which may have actually been p2 of CS concerto?
|
||||||
Lun 21 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Got a bit off-route on p2 and ended up finishing on a shortish pitch of about 16 around the left. Sounds like we missed the best of the route. Will have to do it again next time.
|
||||||
Sab 19 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★ Dunes | 100m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
First couple of pitches only then bailed from the rap anchors as it was getting late.
|
||||||
Sab 19 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dirge | 85m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
First pitch only. Very nice.
|
||||||
Sab 19 Apr 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Seconding Laura
|
||||||
Dom 13 Apr 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
14 | ★★ Electronic Flag | 40m | ★ Buona | |||
Seconding Laura.
|
||||||
Dom 13 Apr 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sacrilege Crack | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Really good. Plenty of big gear helped reduce the stress level.
|
||||||
Sab 12 Apr 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band | 17m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Accessing Faki
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Placing the gear for Kristin.
|
||||||
14 | ★★ Faki | 13m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Sab 5 Apr 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★ Castor | 22m | ★ Buona | |||
With Cam. Very hot and tired after the track work day. Pulled on the gear in the wide section. Couldn't be arsed.
|
||||||
Sab 22 Mar 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
14 | ★★ Electronic Flag | 40m | ★ Buona | |||
With James.
|
||||||
Sab 22 Mar 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
13 | ★ Electric Mud | 10m | ★ Buona | |||
With James.
|
||||||
14 | ★ Shit Heap | 10m | ★ Buona | |||
Crack climbing lessons for Penny and James.
|
||||||
Sab 22 Mar 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Felt much better than last time. Shoulder is still pretty flakey but feels like its getting stronger. Just have to avoid making it worse now.
|
||||||
Dom 9 Mar 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
A couple of laps to see how the shoulder would cope. Not too bad. Have to be very careful not to pull hard on thumbs down jams though. Might be stuck at the lower grades for a bit longer.
|
||||||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 | 12m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
18 17 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
17 16 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
15 | ★ Bad Company | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Sab 1 Mar 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Battery Hill | ||||||
17 | ★ Specific Gravity | 18m, 5 | ||||
Was really good to get out a drag my carcass up something.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Scratchy | 18m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
14 | ★ Heated Exchange | 20m, 4 | ★ Buona | |||
17 | ★ Variable Resistance | 24m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Thecrag says I did this three years ago, but I can't remember. Felt a bit exciting after no climbing for a couple of months. Good though.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Ohm Sweet Ohm | 16m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
15 | ★ Itchy | 18m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Nice to be climbing again.
|
||||||
Mar 21 Gen 2014 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail | 18m, 5 | ||||
A few slow cautious laps to test out both the top rope solo system and the new shoulder injury. Both have a few kinks and need work.
|
||||||
Dom 8 Dic 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
19 20 | ★ Foreign Exchange | 10m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Bolts looked ok? Anchor is a bit of crappy Herb special though. Nice climbing anyway.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Via the Rainbow | 12m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Sab 7 Dic 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Point Pure | ||||||
22 | ★★★ The Great Devoid | 15m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
19 | ★ Unleash the Swarm | 15m, 5 | Media | |||
Mer 27 Nov 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Gobble | 18m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Seconding Tom. Tricky moves. Struggled quite a bit on the slopers.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo | 18m, 5 | Media | |||
Spazzed up the first mantle. The second one was ok.
|
||||||
Mar 26 Nov 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts | 18m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Warmups. This route feels like an onsight every time. So many confusing holds. Good climbing though.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Punks in the Gin | 17m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Had another look at this on top rope. Wondered how the injured pulley would feel on that hard crimp. Answer - not good. Oh, well another one to file away in the 'one day when I'm not injured' category.
|
||||||
Ven 22 Nov 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Dysentery RHF | 18m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Again on top rope to clean the gear.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Dysentery RHF | 18m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Nice moves but the rock is a bit suspect.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Dom 17 Nov 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear | 18m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Couldn't even make it past the first hard move today. . .
|
||||||
Sab 16 Nov 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Most Monstrous Monster | 13m, 4 | ★ Buona | |||
Stuck my hand straight into a huge pool of water in the jug. Ended up resting on the bolt to dry my hands before doing the rest. Seemed soft for the grade. Certainly easier than the 19 just to the left.
|
||||||
19 | ★ Something About Sandy | 13m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Fell at the crux a couple of times before I worked it out. Seemed pretty hard for the grade. Would probably get 21 in some places.
|
||||||
21 | ★ Pigsy | 12m, 4 | ★ Buona | |||
Took a reasonably big fall from just below the third bolt when I came off one of the crappy small pocket things. Came in a bit hard on my right ankle and decided to call it a day.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Blowing Bubbles | 15m, 4 | Media | |||
With Graham. Warmups
|
||||||
Dom 10 Nov 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Point Pure | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Cornflake Climb | 27m | ★ Buona | |||
18 | ★ Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad RHV | 20m | ★ Buona | |||
I think this is what I did. So many bolts on this wall now its hard to know what's what. Kind of contrived, but had some interesting moves on the headwall.
|
||||||
22 | ★★★ The Great Devoid | 15m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Had a crack on Tom's draws. Grabbed the second one to clip, but I think I have it sussed. I really suck at steep stuff, but this feels like a much more reasonable proposition now than the first time I tried it ages ago. Hopefully I'll get it next time I'm up there.
|
||||||
Sab 9 Nov 2013 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
18 | ★★ Annabelistic | 16m, 7 | ★ Buona | |||
Again to clean the gear.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ The Enticer | 14m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
18 | ★★ Annabelistic | 16m, 7 | ★ Buona | |||
16 | ★ Snake Charmer | 15m, 7 | ★ Buona | |||
20 | ★★ Dreamcatcher | 15m | ★ Buona | |||
24 | ★★ Shake and Bake | 15m | ||||
Tried the move from the slopey crimp in the mini horizontal break up to the next flake multiple times. Eventually gave up when the blood blister on my finger exploded. Worth coming back for though.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Footprints on the Other Side | 18m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
21 | ★★ Hand in the Honey Pot | 18m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Spooged out of the sandpit above the crux.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Pink Panzer | 17m, 8 | ★ Buona | |||
Better than it looks.
|
||||||
Mer 6 Nov 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Cucumber Castle | 18m, 4 | ||||
Had a go after Nathan realised that he'd brought the wrong size cam and bailed from the third bolt. It didn't go well at all. Feeling lousy and getting super pumped on everything.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Warmups, then again to clean the gear.
|
||||||
Dom 20 Ott 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear | 18m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Minced my finger in one of the locks. I'm enjoying trying some of these harder KP classics, even it is only on TR. The various injuries seem to be holding up pretty well. I think this one is still well beyond my lead ability at the moment.
|