A dry tooling route to the left of Coire Dubh Integrale. Climb the ice and initial gully as for Coire Dubh Integrale but then at the top of the gully head straight up and climb below the major right facing corner system of the main face. Some bolts assist with the protection.
The classic mini alpine route 20 minutes from Canmore. Climb the WI3 curtain down low than scramble up low angle ice heading up the gully. At the top of the gully take a hard right for a few hundred meters to hit the left facing corner which presents the M4 crux of the route. Climb this to a tree belay. Continue up following mostly corners aiming for the large left facing corer feature at the top of the mountain. From here the direct finish is Coire Dubh Integral, or the right side finish is Coire Dubh. For CDI continue up trending slightly right pitching/scrambling as necessary. The second crux is found in a chimney (bolt) followed by a single bolt belay. Then traverse right 60m. Before heading straight to the top of the ridge.
Walk off via Loder peak scrambling trail.
The classic mini alpine route 20 minutes from Canmore. Climb the WI3 curtain down low than scramble up low angle ice heading up the gully. At the top of the gully take a hard right for a few hundred meters to hit the left facing corner which presents the M4 crux of the route. Climb this to a tree belay. Continue up following mostly corners aiming for the large left facing corer feature at the top of the mountain. From here the direct finish is Coire Dubh Integral, or the right side finish is Coire Dubh. For CD traverse right and up. Pitching/scrambling as needed up a series of ledges. Followed by a short pitch to the ridge top. This route is much less sustained than CDI.
Walk off via Loder peak scrambling trail.
