도움

루트들 알파인로서 Lake Louise에서

~에 탐색하기:

루트 필터들:

등정 필터들 :

-

다른 필터들:

  • 관점
  • 경사도
  • Vegetation
  • 하강
  • 바위형태
  • 스타일
  • 컨디션
  • 날씨
  • 식수 처
  • 경사진 곳에 들어서다
  • 제 시간에 도착
  • 적법성
~에 의한 분류 대량편집(최대100)

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등급 루트 장비 스타일 인기도
Mount Victoria
5.2 III South Summit, Southeast Ridge

A classic! Often referred to as an "sidewalk in the sky" for its relatively low technical difficulty but exposed nature. Don't be fooled by the grade... this is still not an easy objective.

Approach this route via Abbott Pass - either via the Fuhrmann Ledges from Lake Louise, or via Lake Oesa from Lake O'Hara in Yoho. Many parties stay at the hut. See the Alpine Club of Canada website for availability and booking.

Climb the ridge above the hut, staying on the ridgeline where possible and bypassing difficulties on the right (north) side. Continue up rock and scree of dubious quality to a snowy ridge. Follow this to a large dip in the ridge (the Sickle). Once past the Sickle, climb up a short step to regain the ridge. Continue up to the next large rock band and head along it, right of the crest to a weakness to (again) regain the ridge. Continue upwards along easy snow and rock to the summit. Retrace your steps to descend.

FA: 1897

알파인 350m
5.3 II North Summit, Northeast Ridge

A long day, with a good variety of terrain to keep you on your toes. Don't be fooled by the low grade... this can still be a serious objective requiring a range of mountaineering skills.

Approach via Lake Louise and the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. Just past the teahouse, head up a scree gully and then a well-trodden trail through the brush to a talus field below Mt Collier. Continue up this to the toe of the Victoria glacier.

From the toe of the glacier, travel up the glacier avoiding hazard from the rognon and from the slopes of Collier above. Cross the bergschrund and climb up to the base of the black band below the Victoria-Collier col. Climb this band (very poor, loose rock) to the col. From here, climb the ridge south of the col to the summit. Either tackle the rock difficulties straight on or bypass them on snow/ice on the exposed right side above the imposing North Face. Descend the same route. Rappel anchors may be found at times, but test them thoroughly before trusting them.

FA: 1900

알파인 200m
5.4 IV North and South Peak Traverse

A very committing and seldom-traveled objective, this traverse covers the entirety of the ~2-3km skyline between the Victoria/Collier col and Abbott Pass. It is most often completed in a north-to-south direction (described here).

Climb the north summit of Mt Victoria via any route (the NE ridge is recommended). Once on the summit, the way ahead becomes clear, over loose, shattered rock and past several sub-summits and gendarmes. Travel along the ridge, bypassing most difficulties on the left (north) side. Rock quality varies from OK to terrible on most sections of the ridge, though it becomes markedly worse once passing the midway point on the subsummit of "Victoria Centre."

Once on the south summit of Mt Victoria, continue along the ridge and down the standard Southeast Ridge to Abbott Pass. Descend from the pass either via Lake Oesa and Lake O'Hara, or along the flanks of Mt Lefroy and down the Fuhrmann Ledges.

WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE WITHOUT EXPERIENCE AND ABILITY ON CHOSSY ROCKIES LIMESTONE!

FA: 1909

알파인 200m
Mt Temple
5.7 AI3 IV East Ridge
알파인 1800m
5.10a IFAS:TD Greenwood-Jones

One of the best alpine rock routes on one of the most impressive mountains in the southern Rockies!

From Lake Annette, head up and right towards the buttress right of the Sphinx Face, and find a waterfall draining the face.

At the base of the buttress, climb a short pitch of ~5.5 on a steep quartzite cliff just left of the waterfall draining the Sphinx Face above. Cross the creek and scramble up and right on shale-covered ledges aiming for a left-trending gully, about 200m. Follow the gully up and back left to gain the crest of the rib to a ledge on the crest below where the buttress steepens. Follow the rib for about 12 pitches, starting in or just left of a short chimney. Simulclimb or solo as possible and appropriate, following a line of least resistance and wandering left and right of the ridge crest. The best climbing is just right of the crest.

Near the base of the final headwall, good quartzite turns to poorer-quality chocolate-coloured rock. At this point, move right and scramble up a depression before trending back left into a cave-like chimney. Exit the chimney on the left and climb up and left to a ledge on the crest of the buttress. Either climb the steep corner crack on the right or move around to the left side of the crest and go up an easier groove, with the two options converging at a loose ledge below a steep chossy wall.

Traverse left along the ledge (1 rope length) to a lower-angled groove, and climb this to a large scree ledge. Either trend left (poor rock and protection but easier) or right (steeper but good rock and pro). Above, traverse right 1 rope length along another loose ledge to the base of a break in the headwall. Climb one pitch up and right past fixed pitons (optional belay at small pinnacle) to a loose red alcove (fixed angle on right). Exit the alcove up a steep left-facing corner on the left, followed with sustained climbing to a hanging belay (second of 2 fixed belays, ignore tat higher) 20m below a roof. Traverse around the arete on the right (fixed pins) to a slab of perfect limestone. Work up and right across the slab (fixed pins) to a crack, and follow the crack past a roof to a position below a larger roof. Step right again to gain the top of the wall.

Once off steep rock, walk up easy scree to the East Ridge, and follow the corniced ridge and glacier to the summit. From the summit, descend via the Southwest Face scramble route. From Sentinel Pass, descend the Paradise Valley trail to the trailhead.

FA: Brian Greenwood & Jim Jones, 1969

알파인 1300m

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