Ascensões em Western Cwm tendo Beta

Getting to the first bolt feels sketchy but the moves are not hard for the grade. After that its smooth sailing with some delicate slab moves on the crux.

Climbed after partner to drop ropes on Reaper and Today's. Straightforward line

Took many falls on crux. Ether I never found the right beta or this is obscenely hard for a 5.8 or I need to grow another 3 inches of wingspan. That dihedral just wants to spit you off.

I really liked this one. The lead looks sketchy!

Led as part of teaching leading to a group. Rain started falling after first gear piece but feet felt solid. Easy placements for a first trad lead. I could've laced it if i was inclined to.

Apparently it is far easier to pull the move past the roof when one's hands are not really cold. It went pretty smoothly today, but it was far warmer than last time I was trying to climb it. It might actually be hard 5.5 (5.6+) rather than worse than that.

Fun easy climbing up the initial curving crack to the ledge. Nearly impossible move at the first bolt, then tricky climbing (5.9) up the dihedral to the finish.

Everyone who climbed this (4 of us) pulled on the draw at the bolt, including Flo (climbs 5.11s, projects 5.12s).

Got a clean run up it this time. An excellent climb, with many interesting moves, requiring thought in places. I should think about leading this -- though I'd probably want to stick-clip the first bolt.

Good climbing with good gear. I decided to finish up then right to the anchors used by "Enron" (which seemed natural) rather than directly right to the obvious anchors on the face. They may be intended for "Minor Threat". The ledge for the last few moves was soaking wet and slimy, making them a bit more exciting than they might be dry.

A good climb with some very interesting moves. Both near the start, and along the upper finger crack. Gear looked good, and I think I should be able to lead this one.

Might be idiot-proof, but not David proof. I fell a few times at the crux, pulling over the roof onto the slab. Might have been better if my hands weren't so cold.

This climb is, essentially, a one-move wonder, a bit of easy work up a slab, a bit awkward to setup for the roof, then a hard pull over the overhang, then a couple easy moves and done. Protects ok, though.

Also short. Some tricky slab moves, finding the right little hands and feet.

Short, with high first bolt. Easy going to bolt, crux after clip, then fine to anchors.

Again at the crux. I need to figure out the sequence without falling several times. sigh

Lead it at the end of the day. The over-hanging lay-back crack section is really intimidating on a 5.4. It does protect well.

At end of crack, step right to small triangular ledge -- there are two pitons at the back, to rappel off.

Lead it again, with a bit of excitement in the crux section -- was surprised by reaching for a hold, and finding a toad. Not surprised enough to fall, luckily.

Better again. Clean to the crux section onto the slab; two falls on that section, then clean to the finish. Another try or two and I might put it together. On TR, that is. Lead... hm... have to think about that, don't have to carry much rack, at least.

The people I was with wanted to try to TR an outdoor 5.11, so we dropped a rope on this. I gave it a try, but as expected, no hope.

Lead this to setup top-ropes on it and "Security" for others. The lead went far more smoothly than I've had it go other times. Felt comfortable.

Got it clean on TR this time -- actually felt far easier than I remember it being. Phil said I made it look easy -- didn't feel easy, just easier.

Did the initial part of the traverse a bit high, since the lower bit was covered in wet moss. Fun to do, but not a great climb.

When a nemesis becomes a project! Finally I get this climb on lead, a very important red point and feel so good to finish my project. I had forgotten it was a 5.10d after all that.

Top roped, checked gear and how wet the holds are before the red point attempt

Another surprise red point

This climb is harder and more overhanging then it looks from the ground. One rest at the second bolt. Should have taken this hard 5.8 more seriously and worn the better shoes

Had to lead this to rescue one of the group from rope lock. Unbeknownst to me, my red point

Checking holds and gear placement before the red point I will take you security

Left shoulder popped out its socket and had to back off. Really gutted coz I was thought the crux and the clim was mine. Next time security, next time

Easy climbing. A bit damp up top. Probably more challenging on lead given dirty and scarce placements

Spent a long time working the moves for a pink point. Bit too ambitious 3 weeks after 3 months off. Next season perhaps

Required the occasional creative gear placement, and some gardening to place the gear, but generally a fun cimb with some good moves, that stays mostly clear of the adjacent sport lines.

Actually protects reasonably well, even above the point at which the crack peters out.

Clean top rope this time. I think I'm going to work the moves for the red point

Good clean crack practice, a second time just to be sure

Good clean crack practice

Ran up this on second but lost the onsight because I thought I'd already climbed it. Ah well

Lead clean as my one of my first leads in a while. A little more sketchy then I would have liked.

Easier than the other lettered routes, and without the convenient top anchors -- but it still eats gear.

Crack out the micronuts. Nice to find bomber placements for those little fellas.