Nagano / Toyama Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Nagano / Toyama

7 11 9 1 5 6 10 3 4 2 8 12

1 Bokodake Iwa 2 Ogawayama 3 Yukawa 4 Yatsugatake 5 Hotaka / Yari areas 6 Shakujou Dake 7 Tateyama / Tsurugi Areas 8 Todai 9 Ōyafudō 10 Arafuneyama 11 Shōmyō Falls 12 Chuou Alps /中央アルプス

Summary:

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Sazonalidade

338 routes in Region

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 36.180334, 137.998017

questões de acesso

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

herdado de Japan

ética

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

herdado de Japan

1.1. Bokodake Iwa

Summary:

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6 routes in Crag

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 36.470190, 138.108148

descrição

Located in Kamuriki Mountain. 冠着山の指の様な石のでっぱり

1.2. Ogawayama

6 2 1 4 3 5

1 Mawarime Daira Shuhen 2 Kinpō Keikoku 3 Hachimansawa　Shuuhen 4 Nishimatazawa　Taigan 5 Karesawa 6 Yane Iwa

Summary:

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251 routes in Crag

Churrasco Camping Água potável Fogo Refúgios Banheiros Granito Apto para pets Apto para crianças

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e Boulder

Lat / Long: 35.904227, 138.632609

sumário

Ogawayama is one of Japan's premier rock climbing areas offering lots of climbing and bouldering in many sectors dispersed in a beautiful valley.

descrição

Ogawayama - granite blocks and mountains dispersed over a wide area in a beautiful setting. It offers mostly granite slab climbing, some cracks, some faces and even some roofs. There is plenty for boulderes and climbers of all abilities. Some of the sectors are not that easy to find and might also require the crossing of small rivers - we at theCrag try to help you with our maps to locate what you want to find. Most climbs are single pitch but there are also some multi-pitch routes. You can find sectors with all orientations, so there is something to climb most of the time. Be aware that the camp is at about 1600m above sea level and that it can get really cold from mid October to May. The best season is definitely from July to mid October.

https://ogawayama.online/

acesso

You can drive your car up to the camp-site. There is also a parking a little further down that belongs to the village and is free of charge.

onde ficar

There is a large camp ground with good facilities, including laundry. You can also rent simple rooms there and get lunch.

1.2.1. Mawarime Daira Shuhen

Summary:

78 routes in Area

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e Boulder

Lat / Long: 35.909511, 138.638403

1.2.2. Kinpō Keikoku

Summary:

33 routes in Area

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.911366, 138.631301

1.2.3. Hachimansawa　Shuuhen

Summary:

16 routes in Area

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e Boulder

Lat / Long: 35.905296, 138.634458

1.2.4. Nishimatazawa　Taigan

Summary:

45 routes in Area

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.904364, 138.644021

1.2.5. Karesawa

Summary:

40 routes in Area

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.901077, 138.627643

1.2.6. Yane Iwa

Summary:

39 routes in Area

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.915514, 138.637189

1.3. Yukawa

Summary:

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30 routes in Crag

<5 min

Escalada trad, Escalada em top rope e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 36.016240, 138.445724

sumário

More famous for some nice CRACK!

acesso

From Highway 141 take the small road west near Umijiri Station 海尻駅. There are a few small parking areas on the sides of the road. 4x4 vehilces will be able to get closer than reglar cars.

Either way the approach is 5-15min

1.4. Yatsugatake

2 1 3

1 Amida dake 2 Yatsugatake west faces 3 Yatsugatake East Faces

Summary:

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15 routes in Area

2-3 horas

Escalada alpina e Escalada em gelo

Lat / Long: 35.981104, 138.363486

descrição

Yatsugatake is one of Japans prime ice climbing areas due to its cold weather and convenient access from Tokyo.

It receives snow (as expected) but not as much as other areas closer to the Japan Sea. The mid winter temperatures can get down to -30C and the wind on the main ridge line (2500-3000m) often is 25m/s or above. The valleys and ice routes usually stay a lot more protected… generally.

From November until May there is a large range of routes from snow shoeing, to alpine/mixed climbing, to steep waterfall ice, to climbing the artificial ice wall “Ice Candy” at Akadake Kosen.

During summer time people generally (not always, there are some summer routes or canyoning/sawanobori) stick to regular hiking as the rock (being volcanic) is a bit loose and chossy. Many of the loose dirt/ vegetated/loose routes are covered in snow or ice in winter so climbing becomes possible and more enjoyable.

questões de acesso

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

There are many many ice and apline routes in this area, many are docmented in guide books and well recognised, there are aslo many other routes not docmented well.

It would be best to speak to a local about other routes.

acesso

Most areas are accessed from Minotoguchi美濃戸口. There is car parking and a mountain hut at the trail head. A 3 hour walk brings you to Gyosha Koya行者小屋 in the south branch or Akadake kosen 赤岳鉱泉 in the north branch.

there are mountain huts and or camping at both places.

onde ficar

Minotoguchi美濃戸口 Gyosha Koya行者小屋 (camp OK) Akadake kosen 赤岳鉱泉 (camp OK)

The summit huts are open in summer and sometimes in winter. It`s best to inquire directly to the hut.

1.4.1. Amida dake

Summary:

2 routes in Area

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 35.969316, 138.352015

descrição

Mostly winter alpine. Rock can be loose and not idea for summer.

1.4.2. Yatsugatake west faces

Summary:

10 routes in Area

Escalada alpina e Escalada em gelo

Lat / Long: 35.985063, 138.367681

1.4.3. Yatsugatake East Faces

Summary:

3 routes in Area

Escalada alpina e Escalada em gelo

Lat / Long: 35.953425, 138.378729

1.5. Hotaka / Yari areas

6 1 2 5 4 3

1 Byoubu-iwa 2 Karasawa access routes (Hotaka East side) 3 Myoujin routes 4 Hotaka south faces ridges 5 Hotaka west face and ridges 6 Yarisawa/ Yokoo-One

Summary:

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2 routes in Area

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 36.315705, 137.637943

1.5.1. Byoubu-iwa

descrição

The equivalent of Yosemite in Japan......Some say.

1.5.2. Karasawa access routes (Hotaka East side)

Summary:

1 route in Area

Lat / Long: 36.300657, 137.660835

acesso

6 hours hike from Kamikochi　（上高地） Bus Terminal to Karasawa Curl （涸沢カール）

onde ficar

Karasawa　（涸沢） camping or huts

1.5.3. Myoujin routes

1.5.4. Hotaka south faces ridges

1.5.5. Hotaka west face and ridges

1.5.6. Yarisawa/ Yokoo-One

Summary:

1 route in Area

Lat / Long: 36.340862, 137.668392

1.6. Shakujou Dake

Summary:

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3 routes in Crag

Escalada alpina e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 36.281314, 137.550466

sumário

Alpine Multi Pitch

1.7. Tateyama / Tsurugi Areas

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1 Tsurugi dake

Summary:

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3 routes in Area

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 36.612082, 137.631146

acesso

Private vehicles are prohibited, so public transport access to Murodo (室堂） will be required. Depending on the exact climb, from Murodo (室堂） a 2 - 8 hour approach is required.

Some of the few perminant snow fields in Japan are in this area. In summer some approaches may still reqiure crampons and ice axe.

onde ficar

Camp / Monutain huts

1.7.1. Tsurugi dake

Summary:

3 routes in Unknown

Lat / Long: 36.623299, 137.618565

1.8. Todai

Summary:

18 routes in Crag

Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: 35.780061, 138.159148

1.9. Ōyafudō

2 3

2 Left wall Saganpeki area 3 Honryū falls (本流)

Summary:

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8 routes in Crag

Fechado

All Escalada em gelo

Lat / Long: 36.562984, 138.374444

sumário

Ōyafudō (大谷不動) is without doubt one of the most spectacular areas for steep ice-climbing Located Ōyafudō (大谷不動) valley near the Sugadaira ski resort (菅平のスキー場) in the Nagano (長野) prefecture

questões de acesso

Due to problems with landowners this area is closed at the moment.

onde ficar

walk into the Oyafudo via the approach and camp in tent near the unmanned hut

ética

Be polite and do not leave litter.

1.9.1. Left wall Saganpeki area

Summary:

3 routes in Area

Lat / Long: 36.564843, 138.375020

descrição

Left wall Saganpeki area (左岩壁)

1.9.2. Honryū falls (本流)

Summary:

3 routes in Unknown

Lat / Long: 36.564048, 138.377547

descrição

Honryū falls (本流)

1.10. Arafuneyama

Summary:

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1 route in Unknown

All Escalada em gelo

Lat / Long: 36.205240, 138.623677

descrição

荒船山_カブコロン

1.11. Shōmyō Falls

1.12. Chuou Alps /中央アルプス

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1 Mt.Houken /宝剣岳

Summary:

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1 route in Area

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 35.741006, 137.819402

1.12.1. Mt.Houken /宝剣岳

Summary:

1 route in Area

Lat / Long: 35.780340, 137.808901