Ogawayama Guide

1D

1D

The name translates as "Raccoon moonlit night"

The name translates as "A Place In The Sun"

C5-6 1-2set 0.75-2 1set 120cm sling and long quiqdrow

The location is a line that branches off to the right from the top of Shigure 5.10a (wide) and runs directly to the top of Otonosama Iwa main.

The name translates as "Chrysanthemum Weather"

The name translates as "Jackpot Traverse"

Name translates as "Battery Chimney"

Translates as "Legend of the Lake"

The name translates as "Clown flakes"

Whirlpool capelin

Larva of Mothra

Basket Worm

Name Translates as "Highest roof tour route"

Name translates as Fine noodles

Sanka story

Translates as "Hole employees"

Translates as "Captain Ahab" (reference to the Moby-Dick novel)

The Japanese Grade is: 6Kyuu (6級）

The Japanese Grade is：　5Kyuu (5級)

Japanese Grade: 6Kyuu (6級)

SD: Sit Down start route Translates as "Green hand"

Japanese Grade: 5 Kyuu (5級）

Japanese Grade: 8Kyuu (8級）

Japanese Grade: 10Kyuu (10級）

Japanese Grade: 5Kyuu 5級

Japanese Grade: 9Kyuu (9級）

Japanese Grade: 8Kyuu (8級) Name translates as: Left Arete

Japanese Grade (３級) Sit Down Start

Japanese Grade: 9Kyuu (9級) Name translates as: Right Arete

Japanese Grade (2級)

Use c0.5-c6 1-2set

Name translates as "Four Seasons".

The name translates as "Left-upper Crack"

The name translates as "Lightning"稲光

Name Translates as "Leaving the capital"

*NP

The name Translates as "Forest bathing"

anyway traverse it

Name translates as "Evil spirits of heaven"

Name translates as "Tehran north latitude 36 degrees"

Name translates as "People of Stars"

パズル

ケンケンの耳鳴り

The name translates as "Ringing in the ears of Ken Ken"

夏の日

*NP

*NP

*NP

*NP

enjoy granite slab.

Ogawayama classic

Name translates as "The return of spring snow”

Translates as "Together with Tom"

1Q

3Q

3Q

*NP

The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect. Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.

The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).

A very intricate face climb. Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish.

The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder. Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs.

The next line to the left is much easier than it looks and very popular. Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off. A parallel line to the left was bolted and climbed several years ago. The bolts then disappeared for a few years, but were back in May 2007. 10c if you fancy.

The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2. Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position to a lower-off at the top.

A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good. Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off.

The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa. Start as for Blues Power. Make a scary traverse left into space, then climb up and pull into the groove (crux). Climb this in a superb position, then swing left at its top and move up and left to a flake/corner. Step up then pull out right and climb direct to the top and a choice of lower-off.

ホリデー

maybe a little harder than graded

A very classic line that locals think is one of the best within the 5.10x range in Ogawayama.

the rocks were broken became hard

Fantastic route - straight up the white streak on the narrow slab.

Another excellent route tot eh right of Ogawayama Story. Start a bit up and right of OS and straight up. The last bolts are a bit spaced, and crux at the top...

クはクライマーのク

Lower section a little bit crumbly rock but very nice

Lower section a little bit crumbly rock but very nice

same anchor as No Access

same anchor as Secret

An excellent route for the grade. Keroyon is the name of a cartoon frog. Start a short way up the gully to the right of the toe of the slab. Pull steeply left onto the slab, smear up then step right and climb direct parallel to Gamma Route on marvellous holds to a lower-off. The distance between the second and third bolts is quite far, but the climbing is very easy.

More pleasant slab climbing, re-routed by the Bolt Police. Start just right of the flake of Gamma Pitch 2. Climb direct to its dike. Pull up the scoop as for Gamma, but pull out left below the belay onto a slab. Follow the bolted line direct to a good ledge with a lower-off. You can just get down on a 50m rope.

Tasty slabbing with a spicy crux. Climb the flake as for Gamma Route pitch 2. From the dike climb direct by thin moves to a sloping mantel (using the white line of holds on the left makes it 10a; the pegs up and left take you off-route). From here, it is best to step right and finish up Braveheart (the line of bolts - this is 26m and you can just get down on a 50m rope), but it is also possible to continue right to the chains on Gamma Route at the top of pitch 2 or to keep going boldly but pleasantly in a direct line up the slab, veering left to the lower-off on KC's Banana Cake or right to that of Braveheart.

A disjointed but fun slab route with a tricky finish. Start at a small slab down and left of the main slab. Climb the centre of this to a gully on the right. Stride across between the trees and climb the continuation line up the next slab to another ledge. Finish up the short steep face above (crux). If you're using a 50m rope, ab or lower off as far as possible to the right (facing in), then scramble carefully down trees and choss for the last few metres (you can just about ab to the first bolt to clean the route then swing right to easy ground).

A just worthwhile slab route taking a slanting line up the left edge of the lefthand slab. Pull onto the slab at twin bolts, then step left and follow the left edge of the slab to a faint overlap. Make tricky moves through this to better holds, then step up to a lower-off.

An enjoyable long outing, somewhat spoilt by the walks. The bolts have almost all been replaced, but you'll still need a light rack and a lot of slings. The flake on Pitch 5 takes a bomber Friend 4.

1. 5.7~ Pick a line up the slab. The first four or five lines from the left (up to and including the line that pulls up a neat white flake) are 5.6 - 5.8. Whichever pitch you choose to take, from the top-left of the slab, follow a path left to the start of the second pitch - a neat slim flake starting from the toe of the main slab.

2. 5.9 Layback the flake to the bolt at its end and traverse right along a dike. Smear up a white scoop to gain better holds and a ledge with two old trees and two spanking new chains.

3. 5.8 Climb the easy slab behind the belay to a steep corner, passing possible belays on the right and left. Climb the corner, then belay at a tree in a gully.

4. Scramble right up the gully then left across easy slabs to a wooded slope. This is very easy, but beginners may require a rope. Walk about 20m diagonally left to the base of pitch 5. (Note: Pitch 5 starts up a juggy slab left of a gully and heads to an obvious curving flake in a slab up and left. If you're standing below a scruffy wall heading into treed slabs, and the first runner is a peg, possibly with red tape on it, you're too far up and right.)

5. 5.9 Climb the easy slab for 10m to a steep section by a small tree. Pull up onto the next slab using a superb pocket, then continue to the big flake. Pull over this (crux) onto the top slab and continue to a big terrace. It is possible to make a 5.7 detour up the gully and crack to the right and to split the pitch at trees in the gully.

6. Make a scary step into the bottom of the bottomless gully (yes, I know) behind the belay then head up the gully to a good viewpoint on the ridge. Rope up as required.

7. 5.4 Meander up the sleeping slabs to the top - a great spot for a picnic. Rope up as required. Watch you don't drop any gear into the deep cracks.

To descend, ab off down the back (i.e. down the impressive face of the top pitch of Kaze to Tomo ni Sarinu). If you have two ropes, you can get down in one ab, but tie a knot in the rope and head left (facing in). A short scramble leads down to the path below Magga Slab. If you have one rope, ab to the anchor on the lower ledge below the steep face (the second anchor down - this is the top of Pitch 2 of Kaze to Tomo ni Sarinu) and ab again from here. Both abs are almost, but not quite, 25m.

Pleasant slab climbing, the cleanest of the new bunch. Start directly below two big pockets, one above the other. Climb the scruffy lower slab past a poor peg to a flake and follow this to a lovely jug at a long horizontal ledge/break. Pull up to the pockets and continue pleasantly to finish direct up the easier angled top slab. You can also start by traversing the break right from the white flake.

More pleasant slab climbing, this time with a stiff crux. Start directly below the huge pocket about 3m right of NewGam 1. Climb to the pocket and make a hard sequence to escape this. Finish direct up the easier angled top slab.

Yet more pleasant slab climbing, but still a bit dirty up top. Start just left of the vegetated right edge of the slab below a shallow corner. After a steep pull, climb easily to the corner and continue to a small tree in a horizontal break. Make a tricky pull onto the top slab, then climb quite scarily up the scruffy slab to a lower-off. 60m rope required.

And more of the same, also a bit dirty up top. Pull over a bulge right of NewGam 3 (or traverse in from higher up the slope on the right) and then climb direct past the break to a lower off. 60m rope required.

NewGam 4's twin. Pull onto the slab right of NewGam 4 (left of a ring bolt) and then climb direct past the break to a lower off. 60m rope required.

The start is hard and technical and needs a thorough clean. Start round to the right of the vegetated right edge of the main slab below a big flake. Scramble leftwards up 5m of dirt to a bolt left of the flake. Clip and make an interesting but dirty and hard sequence to a foothold on the left. Step left and clip, and then move back right and pull onto the top slab. Finish direct, but take care not to disturb a rather delicate pancake of rock just below the lower-off.

A steep, juggy start is followed by a solid but scruffy slab. Start as for NewGam 6, but climb real rock to the big flake. Pull up onto the flake, then pull right into a recess. Continue up and slightly left to gain the top slab. Finish pleasantly enough up this. It is possible to head left from the flake to join NewGam 6 for the top slab

A steep climb with some good moves on suspect rock. Start about 6m right of NewGam 5. Pull steeply up just right of an alarmingly perched block to a good undercut. A difficult reach from this gains a boss and an easing in angle. Lower-off.

Perhaps that should be A Step into the Future. Whatever - a cracking face climb with buckets of exposure. The bolts have been renewed and repositioned, for the better, it has to be said.

Climb the lefthand line up the lower slab to the foot of the steep arete. Power up the arete on its right to an obvious traverse right. From the end of this, finish direct at a lower-off, or continue up the short slab to a tree.

A former top-rope problem to the right. Take a Friend 0.5.

Climb direct to join Step of Future at the end of the traverse.

A good steep crack pitch in a fine position, but the crack itself is sandy after rain. Take a set of Friends.

Climb the righthand line up the lower slab or the broken corner to a terrace on the right - possible belay. Follow the crack on good holds and gear to a lower-off.

A much underrated route. Perhaps people are put off by the appearance of the first pitch. Don't be - the second is a beaut. Take a rack.

1. 5.9 Climb a series of broken cracks and grooves up the centre of the first substantial face to belay on a sumptuous ledge below an arching thin crack.

2. 5.10d Pull into the thin crack by tricky, thin moves. Follow the crack up and left to a bolt. Pull over and trip tidily up the receding slab to belay.

To descend, ab the route.

The flake crack round to the left of Cassandra and just right of a grotty corner. Rack up, ditch the tinies and go heavy on the bigs.

Follow the slightly slanting handcrack all the way to a tree on the left. Holds on the left keep the climbing pleasant rather than thrutchy.

Ab off.

The crack to the right is a crumbly 5.10a with an appalling anchor.

A good steep line but the rock's less than perfect. There seems to be a lower-off on the lip - or is it just a back-up for a crap bolt? Perish the thought.

Start in the cave round to the left of Kappa. Follow the bolted line through the roof till the angle comes to its senses. Continue more easily to a lower-off. Check you've got enough rope to get down.

A superb pitch. Take a Friend 2 for the start.

Start just left of where the overhang gets serious, below and left of a groove. Climb any way you like to the first bolt. Go up, then right into a scoop, then make a steep and reachy pull (crux) to where the angle relents. Climb a short crack then move up and right to a lower-off.

It is possible to ab direct to the ground with a 50m rope. It is possible to lower off direct to the ground with a 60m rope. Either way, it's best if someone follows to get the gear.

To the left, the rock sticks out slightly, but at an easier angle. This has been christened Magga Slab, and the name appears to be sticking.

The crusty right edge of the slab, where it's almost a face in parts. Take the route name into account! Slabby moves on crumbly jugs lead up to and over a bulge to a lower-off. That crunching sound is your footholds disintegrating. (Debolted in the public interest in summer, 2000 - though the lower-off and top bolt remain.)

A poor route with no obvious line.

Tricky starting moves up a short, slabby rib behind a suffering tree lead to easier climbing, then one steepish move to a lower-off.

The obvious line of weaknesses left again is a touch more fun.

After a stiff starting pull, saunter up the slab on good holds to below a slanting bulge. Pull right over this then go left and up to a lower-off.

Very good! Start at a dike where the slab takes a step up.

Climb the dike and slab easily to the first bolt. Move left using a thin break, stand up in it and go right to a left-leaning corner. Stretch right out of this to a good finger edge and use this to gain a jug further right. Cut loose, heave up and then climb easily to a terrace and single bolt in someone's shrubbery. Belay on the best tree you can find or step right to the lower-off of Ultra Seven. A 5.11a variation takes you direct from bolt one to bolt two.

A neat and varied pitch, but a little lacking.

Start just left of Kawaii Onna. Climb straight up the slab on spaced bolts to below the crumbly right edge of an overhang. Make a weird move to get established on the lip, then a full-body smear up the runnel above to easy ground and a choice between a lower-off on the left and a tree over the back.

An easy slab leads to a steep, hard finish.

Climb the slab just left of Owen no Tame ni Inori wo till it ends at a short steep tower. A couple of exciting moves up this lead to a lower-off below the central terrace (or you could pull over to the right and do Playback).

The section of slab to the left is short and finishes at an obvious terrace.

A short slab with little going on.

Follow the line of RCC bolts (well, there are 2, and most people climb about a metre right of them, which is where the holds are) to the right edge of the terrace. Lower off a disturbingly slender tree or look for something more substantial to the left.

Short, but very tiring on the fingers.

Start a couple of metres up and left of Hourouheki. Climb to the second bolt by fingery pulls and dodgy smears. Easier moves lead to the terrace. It's standard cowardice practice to pre-clip the first bolt from the jug 3m up Song of Pine.

The one-bolt wonder in the centre of the slab.

Follow the obvious line to the terrace - there are good holds where it matters.

The next line along - the holds stand out.

Make hard moves to get established on the slab, then climb directly and more easily to the terrace. Holds on Song of Pine are out of bounds.

An excellent 4-pitch route. Also well worth it if you do Koinuma-Yonekura Crack as pitch 4. Take a variety of Friends for the double cracks on the first pitch.

1. 5.10c Start where the slab starts to blend left and up into the hillside. Climb the slab to an arete. Hard moves up this lead to a sloping ledge on the right. Swing left to the base of twin cracks and climb these to belay at a tree.

2. 5.10a Step left, surmount a small overhang, then climb the slab above to a good ledge and belay.

3. 5.9 Climb the very short slab behind the belay to a big ledge below the final tower.

4. 5.11b Climb the centre of the face on the left to finish on the top of this particular part of the world.

A superb pitch! If you ever see this from below, you'll want to do it.

Descend by abseiling 50m down the back left face to where the gully becomes walkable then stumble back down to the start of the route. You can split the ab at one of the route's belays if necessary.

The steep face left of Phoenix.

Climb the face on small holds with short-term help from a decent undercut flake, then head up and right to a lower-off.

The steep crack on the left side of the crag. A long-standing top-rope problem, now bolted, kind of.

Follow the crack to a lower-off. Crux midway.

The slabby rib right of Phoenix, gained from the left. A decent route.

Swing out right from Phoenix to a steep pull onto the slab. Follow this just right of the edge to a lower-off.

The central groove.

Climb the groove with a detour round the huge dead tree. Finish at the lower-off of Phoenix, or continue to the lower-off of New 3 or climb the continuation corner (New 5).

The centre of the slab right of the groove. The best of the new bunch - unfortunately only the first bolt has its hanger.

Start at a short crack under a bulge. Climb the crack, then pull out right at a shrub. Swing out left immediately (well, you can hang about a bit if you want) using a good flake, then follow the slab to a lower-off on a small ledge on the right.

The right rib.

Gain the rib however you like and follow it to the lower-off of New 3.

The corner to the top.

Gain the corner however you like (ie climb New 1-3) and follow it to a lower-off just below the top. Be sure to top out and check out the state of the anchors on top. Then use them.

Tengu is a red-faced goblin with a long nose, and Kurama isn't. A good steep finish to Phoenix.

Start from the top of Phoenix. Follow good holds leading right and up to a corner, then pull airily through the bulges on the right.

The shallow corner right of Tranquiliser has a nasty start. Pull out left from the corner to a big crumbly flake, then climb direct on big holds to a steeper section. Pull out right to a vague ledge, then go up and left to a bolt belay (as for Doushikai Route). The direct finish from the steeper section is 5.10c. Ab/lower off (60m rope required to get down in one).

Slab Traverse

Slab Route located above Jet Stream

Mixture of crack and face climbing.

The start of the climb is protected with 4 bolts, the remainder of climb is NP (F#3, R1, F#2.5)

The bolts might look in the wrong place, but once you have a good look at the route and rock around, you will notice that they are about right.

Beautiful arete climb

First climbed in 1981 by Tomikazu Shinohara and Naoyuku Watanabe who are key figures in Ogawayama's climbing history. They established a route that is not only the most popular multi-pitch in Ogawayama, but also one of the most beloved in all of Japan. This is the perfect route for new multi-pitch climbers and one that every rock climber should try.

• Pitch 1, 5.7, 10m
• Pitch 2, 5.8, 30m
• Pitch 3, 5.6, 25m
• Pitch 4, 5.8, 25m
• Pitch 5, 5.6, 10m
• Pitch 6, 5.7, 10m
• Pitch 7, 5.8, 20m

Classic Finger Crack. The lines runs straight down the center of the main wall.

The name of the climb means "Spider silk".

Route Name means "I dropped a dead tree!"

Route name means " Team of Spiders"

Starts on the obvious slab/corner on the left as you get to Yane Sanpou.

1. First pitch (5.6) goes up the slab next to the corner past a tree to a decent tree & ledge. (Original guidebook shows this as 2 pitches but its easy to do in 1.

2. Next pitch (5.7) continues up and left along a line of cracks and flakes to another tree and small ledge belay (2 bolts).

3. 3rd pitch (5.8) goes straight up the squeeze chimney above for the crux of the route - good bolt below the chimney, not protectable inside it. Wear long pants... Continue up to belay on big ledge with tree belay.

4. Pitch 4 (5.5) - walk back up broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back

1. Face

2. Face-Slab

3. OW

4. Face-III

*NP

Another good long stroll, this one being more even than Nanryou Kanagawa Route and featuring a cracking third pitch. The traverse on Pitch 2 can also be intimidating. Take a rack.

1. 5.6 As for Nanryou Kanagawa Route - climb the corner - mainly on the slab - on slightly dodgy rock to belay at a tree on a good ledge. If possible, belay out of the corner (a party of two can use the shiny new bolts on top of the pinnacle on the right).

2. 5.7 From behind the belay, follow a traverse line right to a big flake. Undercling left, then climb the continuation crack and slab to a bolt belay on a good ledge.

3. 5.8 Step left from the belay and climb the slab to a prominent crack. Up this to another good ledge. The tricky lower section of this pitch can be avoided on the right. But you'll be knocking a star off the route

4. 5.6 Continue more easily up the slab to the spacious terrace.

5. 5.5 Wander back and right and pick a line up the easy slabs to the top.

Great little overhang.

Vertical climbing for the first section then the route turns into slab climbing with a gorgeous view behind you.

Has a small overhang that can be easily overcome, then some nice slab climbing.

Name Translates as: "Rolling Dung"

Use 2set Cam and 3 quickdraw