Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Pegasus
Multi Pitch Climb | 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10a | ★★ Chouwa No Gensou
Multi Pitch Climb Translates as "Illusion of harmony" | 5 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11c | ★ Twilight
| Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.10d | ★ Yama Zoku Tasogare
| 5, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10d | Washi
Translates as "Eagle" Multi Pitch Climb | 3, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11a | ★★ Astro Dome
Short and steep double crack system. Dry in light rain. | 20m, 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12b | Airway 2
| 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12a | Airway
| 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12a | ★★ Haru Lara (2P)
Multi Pitch Climb | 30m, 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10d | Fuyu ga Kuru Mae ni
Translates as "Before winter comes" | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.11b | Nagai o Wakare
Translates as "Long farewell" | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.9 | Fūrin
Translates as "Wind chime" | 6 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10a | Wild Country
| 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10d | ★★ T & T
| Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.9 | Girls
| Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.11b | Travel chance
| Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.12c | Nakittsura
なきっつら | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.12a | Jinsei Gekijō
Translates as "Life theater" | 45m, 2, 10 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10c | Takoya Dōme
Translates as "Grilled octopus alliance" | 35m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Souten Hanlo
| 75m, 3, 10 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.7 | Hana-uta Shōkei
| 30m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10a | ★ Fudōsawa Aikōkai Route
F0.4~4 Mid size range Route name translates as"Fudosawa lovers party route". | 20m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.8 | ★ Oshin
F1.5~3.5 | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.11a | ★★★ JECC Route
F1~4 2-3set use70m | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.10b | ★★ Kouga
This is a fantastic route that is only marred by the scrappy start. The real climbing starts from the OW size crack (more like a squeeze chimney then an off-width). Put in a number BD #6 and then begin to grunt your way up. If you like wide off-width climbing then give this climb another 1 star. The OW changes to a perfect fist/hand size overhanging crack that continues directly straight up all the way to the anchor. It is best to 2nd the climb to clean the route. BD 0.75 ~6) It would be recommended that you take 2x BD #5 unless you don't mind having long runouts. | 25m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Archaic Smile
| 17m, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12a | Wanna Be
| 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.13a | ★★★ Garyō Tensei
Translates as ”Finishing touch” | 18m, 4 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.7 | ★★ Samu Zamu Route
| 40m, 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11a | Tsuyu no Tameiki Route
| 6, 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.9 | Freedom Spirit
| 25m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10a | Outlaw
| 65m, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.8 | Kamoshika Route
Translates as "Antelope Route" Cam sizes F1~4 | 85m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11a | Dō Variation
The Same Variation | 40m, 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.9 | Takeda Hishi Route
| 100m, 5 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10b | Seishun' 86
Translates as "Youth '86" | 35m, 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11d | Black jokes
Three F1 size cams | 5m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10b | Everest Nansei Kabe Route
F1~4 | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.10d | Tensai no shōmei
天才の証明 Translates as "Proof of genius" F1.5~3 | 60m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.9 | Just Focus
| Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.12b | ★★ Dog Head
This route is on the rock formation known as Dog Head Rock | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.10d | ★★ Noppo to chibikko
This route is on the rock formation known as 'Penguin Rock' | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.7 | Seoto Route
Translates as "Sound of a stream route" F1~3 This route is on the rock formation known as 'Seal Rock' | 30m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10a | Rei tomo rūto
F1.5~4 | 150m, 5 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10c | Dakekanba Route
F1~4,K1, L1 | 60m, 2, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.8 | Kāten No Ana
| 40m, 1 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10c | Crater
| 40m, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10c | Direct Route
| 40m, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10c | Black Sand
| 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10d | Migi Kante
Translates as "Right Arete Route" | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.10a | ★★ Nanashi no Gonbee
Translates as "Anonymous" (No Name) | 30m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11c | ★★ Tenshi no kaidan
Translates as "Angels Stairs" | 40m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11d | ★★★ Walk On
Start up Nanshi no Gonbee to the small roof, go over the roof and into the thin finger crack above. continue past the tree at half height and continue to follow the obvious crack line. The crack widens as you go from fist to O.W. size. BD C4 #3- 5 is required to protect the top section. | 30m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12a | Bunbu wa ryōdō
This line is very gritty and covered with moss and scale, this line will need a fair bit of cleaning before it can be lead again. It looks like a good line and would be worth cleaning up, definitely looks like a one or two star climb. | 30m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11c | ★★ Ningen Sengen
にんげんせんげん | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Arahito Gami
One of the most impressive climbs at Mizugaki. A true classic and a real test piece for the grade. | 26m, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11a | ★ Trouble Chance
Overhanging Off-width Crack. Number Camelot C4 #3 through #6 is essential, along with long trousers and shirt. | 15m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10a | ★★ Yoromeki Crack
| Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.9 | ★ Emperor Jam
| Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.9 | Variation
| 40m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.9 | Emperor Crack
F3~4, T5~6 | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.8 | Emperor Traverse
| Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.10b | Shakunage Sami
Rhododendron Guitar 石楠花三味 | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.10b | ★★ TOP e no Michi
TOPへの道 | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.12b | Tangerine cloud
タンジェリンクラウド | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.13b | Urei no ō
愁いの王 "King of melancholy" | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.11d | ★★ Iwatsubame Sanjūrō
hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again. Great climb with losts of thrill. | 25m, 2, 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11a | Departure
Very short climb. The crux is at 1/3 height where you need to get a height foot stance to gain the jug hold about 2m below the over hang. | 12m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
★★★ Berujuēru
One of Japan's iconic multi-pitch free climbing routes. This is a must do route. The 1st, 4th and 5th pitches are the gems of the route. The hardest pitch is the first pitch which starts with a bouldery arete move into the corner under the overhang. Then moving right and around the overhang and onto the 5.11b slab, which will test even the best slab climbing specialists. The chimney in pitch 6 is graded 5.7, however this is not a true indication of the difficulty and should be re-graded as 5.9+~5.10. | 250m, 9, 6 | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.8 | ★ Nanashi no Gonbee
| 15m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10c | Celebrating Spring
C0.3 ~ 3 sized Cams | 15m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10c | ★ Snake Route Left
Translates as Snake Route Left | 20m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11a | ★ Snake Route Migi
Translates as Snake Route Right. Watch out for the tree at half height. Any fall above the gear while ascending the twin crack section at the top of the route will result in hitting the tree below. The tree has already accounted for one rushed trip to the emergency room to patch up a big gouge in one climbers buttocks after he fell at the lip of the twin crack section. | 20m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10b | ★ Snake Pit
Translates as "Snake Pit" | 20m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10d | ★★ Nanashi no Gonbee
Add, one more star for the 1st Pitch (once it is cleaned). The second pitch is a classic Off-width test piece and deserves the two stars. | 25m, 2, 3 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10a | 5.10a Corner
lowe section has nice moves but the rock is still a little unstable so be careful | 14m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.9 | 5.9 Wide Crack Corner
One of the Options as the second pitch finish. Up the wide crack corner | Mizugaki Yama | |||
★ 5.10a Off-Width
Good Option for the Second pitch finish. | 6m | Mizugaki Yama | |||
5.9 | 5.9 Chimney
| 15m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11a | ★ Nanshi no Roof Crack
Anonymous Roof Crack | 26m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12a | ★★ Devil Dance
The final top section of the climb was linked and the FFA made by James Frith on 14th October 2013. The protection is good but the final crux section of the route is unprotected and run-out, which can be very daunting. A helmet is considered a good option. This is a must do line for all budding Mizugaki-Yama Crack Gurus. FFA: James Frith, 2013 | 20m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Iwa no Dendo
Translates as "Rock Hall of Fame”。 A true classic and one of the top 10 climbs at Mizugaki. This is a must do route. | 37m, 2, 6 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Canoe
Starts out with 20m of finger cracks and then widens for the last 10m to a slightly flaring large hands /fist size crack to top out. This is a fantastic climb. This is a continuos climb with no real rests the entire length, there are however several great hand jam pockets that are placed at the perfect places to de-pump and place your next bit of gear. This is a must do and a real contender for top 5 best climbs at Mizugaki. | 28m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10d | ★★ N-Ji Hang
(Kクラックを探すも、見つけられなかったので、これでアップ。以前は苦しんだものの、今回はサクッと。最初から最後までワイドで、ハング越えがなかなか。後ろの木は使わない方が楽しめます。) FA: Kadoya Takara, 2005 Set: Kadoya Takara, 2005 | 25m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.11a | ★ B1-Finger
FA: Kadoya Takara, 2005 | 15m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10b | Original Pitch 1
FFA: Kadoya Takara, 2005 | 20m | Mizugaki Yama | ||
5.10b | ★ Kikuyu Ryokou
1
5.10b
2
5.8
First pitch is a fantastic flake traverse around an arête which finishes at the anchor for Hyakuu no oo. The second pitch starts up in a chimney and then you step out onto the face and then up an off width crack to the top. Beware the top off width crack, if you are not used to off width climbing you will think you have just been sandbagged (don't think it us an easy 5.8) | 2 | Mizugaki Yama | ||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★ Central (Chuo) Ridge
1
3
2
4+
3
5+
| 60m, 3 | Mitsutouge | ||
V | ★ Vi Ji Rock
1
V
2
IV
| 60m, 2 | Mitsutouge | ||
5.12a | ★ Street Performer (Daidou Geinin)
Pitch 1 of Naoto Ridge climbed free | 20m | Mitsutouge | ||
5.11c | Gababa
Take Care | 12m | Mitsutouge | ||
5.11d | Yotte Takatte
Pitch 1 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free | 20m | Mitsutouge | ||
5.11b | Hang Over
Pitch 2 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free | 25m | Mitsutouge | ||
5.10d | I love Rock (Iwa ga Suki)
| 20m | Mitsutouge | ||
5.11b | I Go!
Yon Dan Hang pitch 1 climbed free | 45m | Mitsutouge | ||
IV | Mantle Ledge
| 25m | Mitsutouge | ||
5.11a | ★ YukiZuri
| 20m | Mitsutouge | ||
5.10d | ★★ Jump of Joy
Hatori Ridge Pitch 1 Climbed Free | Mitsutouge | |||
5.10c | Big Mouse
| 25m | Mitsutouge | ||
5.10c | Jack
| Mitsutouge |