攀登 in Agamemnon Area as Retreat

Onsighted the first pitch after taking almost 40min climbing up and down until I finally committed to crux. Would have continued the second pitch but we were running out of daylight so abandoned it by going left to Agamemnon's Gully.

I should be able to do 17 right? Did not want to commit above the not totally inspiring gear, so after half a dozen goes of climbing up a bit then down climbing, I down climbed to the ground.

I fell off a lot and then pulled on gear, but still couldn't get to the top. A bad experience tbh. I still think I'm missing the gene for crack climbing

Climbed the first pitch, then it rained. And then it hailed. We bailed. Off to the pub for a chicken parmigiana

Bruh

ha ha ha fuck

Should've climbed more routes to get used to the rock before I attempted. I also shouldn't have put on both sunscreen and insect repellant right beforehand as it got in my eyes mid-climb and I couldn't see a thing haha. Had some great jams before I was able to bail without leaving any gear, fortunately.

retreat as the rest of the day fkn cooked me (thanks Stas for letting me off the hook 😅)

Had a difficult time even trying to aid through this one. Utter opposite end of the grade 20 spectrum I've ever been.

finally the shut down arrived. after sizing up what did not look as hard as everyone says, i thought my jambing prowess would get me through this one. boy was i wrong. goofed the feet like it was my first crack climb ever and came out, complete with a big ole gobi. rather than put some gloves on in the presence of Mr. Banich, i kindly asked him to retrieve my gear. He sent it no problem, living up to the assurance that of course he would crush this thing and it was not worth our time. Ethan also cleaned it and it is safe to say that my insistence we try this thing was a mistake. sorry Ethan, but also thank you. i'll be back after i nurse my badly bruised ego.

spoiler alert: the shutdown did not bode well for my onsight attempt of squeakeasy 10 minutes later.

Made it up to the loose block, hauled past it, but couldn’t make the finger jams

Bailed at anchors mid way, thought the rains were coming. The bees were chill, climbed on a cool day

Good to practice jamming again, took a few baby whips. Then seconded Noel up.

Very cool start. That’s all I got to see after getting spat out and landing upside down in a shrub before calling it a day. Need to think with my feet next time. From what I saw it looked mega classic.

Ben lead, fell at the offwidth constriction on pitch one, probably where the original aid point was on the FA. Decent inverted fall. In a way was nice to be shut down a little on day 1 and gain some healthy respect for the place.

So crimpy

Who would have thought a 14 could be so epic? We had walked up in the rain to do Wizard of Ice, but it was dripping wet. This was dry, and looked fun, and with a name like 'Smooth Journey' what could possibly go wrong? My journey was anything but smooth. After slinging the top of the pillar at the start, I made the moves (which felt pretty stiff for 14) across to the next set of pockets, and shoved my hand into a jam. The inside of the pocket felt strange and squishy, then within seconds I felt something crawling on me. Before I knew it multiple bees were stinging my hand, then swarming around my head, crawling into my helmet and down my neck, and stinging every bit of exposed skin they could find. In the ensuing excitement the only gear I could find was a crappy 0.3 camalot in a shallow flared placement, which in my increasingly panicked state I decided to trust to prevent a horrific pendulum across into the pillar. I slumped onto the crappy cam, Andrew lowered me off, the crappy cam held, and a cloud of bees followed me all the way to the ground. As soon as my feet touched the ground I was yelling for slack and running away from the rock, while frantically flailing my arms around my head and ripping off my helmet, jacket and shirt. It would have made excellent comedy for anyone watching. In the end I got stung at least 20 times

had a moment. Couldn’t find gear placements ! Retreated