条目 in Flinders Lane Area

This is actually the lower tier of Bluff Minor & Major east faces, but is commonly known as the Flinders Lane Area as the routes begin on Flinders Lane, which runs along the top of Tiger Wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of Bluff Minor. A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

Thin corner with a bolt 1.5m R of SF.

1m R of ML.

1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

Start 3m R of DD. Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

Start above Tahini, 6m L of Aristocrat (which is described in the Bluff Major section). The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at Arapiles. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.

Start at the anchor above Inquisition. Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

Start as for CD. Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

Start as for CD. Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trending R then L.

This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off.

Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates Bluff Minor and Bluff Major. Climb the chimney/corner.

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Start 4m R of Aristocrat. Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge.

Bolt/s and roof L of Abdul.

Chimney that can be bridged without any grim climbing. Start at the far L end of the ledge.

The R-curving crack just R of Abdul. Awkward - but you've got to get up to Blockbuster Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start 2m R of I. The face, leading into I near the top.

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to Scorpion but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the Blockbuster Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17. Start 10m R of I.

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two.

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

Links Scorpion Corner into Scorpion, possibly the way Hot Henry Barber did it. For full value and the full tick don't step onto the ledge at the top of Scorpion Corner but instead go through the steep roof crack on good jams to enter Scorpion after the step across.

Start as for I then the unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.

Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.

Start just R of SC. Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

A pleasant link from Flinders Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, 3-4m right of the slimy access corner.