Showing all 40 线路.
Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | Rotten Row
Not really a climb, just an escape route. The diagonal ramp leading right from the base of the 'Siren' corner. 首攀: Steve Craddock & Bob Craddock, 1963 | 60m | |||
19 | ★ Argonauts
Nice pitch high on the face. 首攀: Steve Williams & Keith Lockwood, 1986 | 40m | |||
18 R | Roll Dem Bones
Good 2nd pitch with bold and committing crux well out from gear. (A couple of grades have been added to allow for this.) 'Hot Flap Direct Start' might be a better start than the current first pitch. Take doubles of all cams to #2 1/2 and three #2 TCUs or equivalent. Start as for 'Hot Flap', below the flake marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
首攀: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman & Keith Lockwood, 1997 | 100m, 4 | |||
14 R | ★★ Hot Flap
1
8
24m
2
13
30m
3
14 R
32m
4
13
50m
5
12
35m
Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected. Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
首攀: John Fahey & Bob Bull, 1965 | 170m, 5, 3 | |||
17 | Tauraroa Direct Start
A logical but not very appealing start. 首攀: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978 | 25m | |||
16 R | ★★ Hot Flap Direct Start
This obvious start to 'Hot Flap' is well protected at the hardest point but then has a long runout on mossy rock. Still worth a star though. 首攀: Phillip Stranger & Rob Taylor, 1967 | 50m | |||
16 R | Between the Lines
An interesting exploration that is superseded by other climbs. 首攀: Ed Neve & Nick Reeves, 1978 | 53m | |||
18 R | Sang Froid
Marginal protection on first pitch. Both this pitch and the its next-door neighbour 'Puppet' On A String are very good pitches but possibly the most serious of their grades at 'Arapiles'. Still not sure if they deserve the skull-and-crossbones (have taken them off this climb) but they are very serious. Peter Watling accidentally climbed this pitch in the 70's thinking it was 'Hot Flap' Direct Start!
首攀: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 1983 | 130m, 4 | |||
18 X | Puppet on a String
Another pitch in a similar vein to 'Sang Froid', possibly the scarier of the two. 'Argonauts' makes a good finish. 首攀: Dennis Kemp, Stephen Hamilton & Dave Mudie, 1987 | 50m | |||
18 | ★★ Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses
1
17
50m
2
18
50m
3
10m
| 110m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ Creon
A good climb all of the way. Finishing up Tales Of Brave Ulysses makes it even better. Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).
首攀: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Watling & Nick Reeves (alt), 1979 | 95m, 2 | |||
★★ New Route (name coming soon))
Start as for C/OR but continue straight up mossy wall where they go left and right. We continued straight up and then through Hot Flap. Could do with a clean up. 首攀: Gareth Llewellin & Rob Saunders, 2012 | 60m | ||||
17 R | ★★ Oedipus Rex
1
17 R
30m
2
13
45m
3
14
42m
4
16
30m
Good long climb but the middle section is nothing special. Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).
首攀: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett & Clive Parker, 1968 | 150m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Oedipal Wrecks
Not a bad start. Reasonable, if fiddly gear. 首攀: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1994 | 30m | |||
16 R | ★ Home of the Brave
Good climbing with only a short section of nondescript ground at the start of the second pitch. There are some dangerous detached blocks/flakes on both first and final pitches and the final pitch is quite has some committing runouts. Tiny cams are essential on the last pitch. Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
首攀: Kieran Loughran, Felicity Rousseaux & Meg Sleeman, 1989 | 140m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Driftwood
A strange, unbalanced climb. Few people will do the climb as a whole, using the initial chimney as the start of another climb or doing the final, evil chimney after starting up something else. Start: Start at the deep chimney line that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
首攀: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Garry Kerkin. 首攀: Peter Jackson & John Fahey climbed pitch 3 in earlyby traversing in from Siren., 1964 | 120m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Driftwood/Antigone
首攀: Speedie, Stone, Kerkin / Caffin & Wilcox | 120m, 3 | |||
15 | ★★ Antigone
1
13
60m
2
15
48m
3
12
16m
A very nice climb at the grade. Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
首攀: Roger Caffin & Sue Wilcox, 1966 | 120m, 3 | |||
15 | ★★ Sundance
1
12
42m
2
15
22m
3
13
30m
4
14
48m
Very enjoyable. The fourth pitch is runout but can be avoided.
首攀: Keith Bell & Keith Lockwood, 1976 | 140m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Sunset Strait
Start as for 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun'. Where 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun' traverses right, continue straight up. Belay on ledge between 'Antigone' and 'Sundance'. Either rappel from bolt anchors or continue up one of the other climbs off this ledge. 首攀: Stuart Hollaway & Dale Thistlethwaite, 2012 | 60m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Afternoon Delight
The best way to start Sunset Strait and a worthy pitch in its own right. Starts as for Wall of the Afternoon Sun. Up the easy stuff, then step up and R on to the red streak. Past the bolt and up to stand on the big holds. Move up L to the bolt on Wall of the Afternoon Sun (if joining Sunset Strait) or disregard moving up L to the bolt and instead step up and R to eventually join the last section of the first pitch of Wall of the Afternoon Sun. After its second bolt move across R and up to the ring anchors above Red Sky at Night. 首攀: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 6月 2018 | 35m, 2 | |||
19 R | ★★ Wall of the Afternoon Sun
1
19
40m
2
17
27m
3
17 R
22m
4
14
48m
A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch. Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).
自由首攀: Peter McKeand 首攀: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1969 | 140m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Red Sky At Night
首攀: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 9月 2015 自由首攀: 9月 2015 | 30m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ If You're Lucky
Up short seam 5 metres right of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Hard moves lead past a peg runner (if it's still there). Traverse left 2 metres and over bulge to flake. Up then left to first belay of WOTAS. Start: Not a bad line but doesn't see much traffic. 首攀: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey.., 1982 | 40m | |||
19 | ★ The Burning Fields
自由首攀: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 9月 2015 | 33m, 2 | |||
20 R | ★★★ Take Five
1
20 R
45m
2
19
40m
3
17
48m
Great climbing up the clean streak starting 15 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'.
首攀: Robin Miller (solo).., 1982 | 130m, 3 | |||
5 | Tschumpel
Botanical line behind large dead tree at right end of 'Rotten Row'. 首攀: Bruno Zeller & Anne McKenzie, 1969 | 42m | |||
7 | Senile
Crack 5 metres right of 'Tschumpel', 1 metre left of 'Bindi'. 首攀: Bruno Zeller & Anne McKenzie, 1969 | 40m | |||
5 | Bindi
Chimney line 6 metres right of 'Tschumpel' 首攀: Chris Baxter & Derek Lord, 1967 | 25m | |||
15 | Pantouflage
Good finish but the crack is awful. Start: At the end of the first pitch of 'Watchtower Chimney'. 首攀: Keith Lockwood & Jim Bright, 1973 | 96m | |||
21 | The Last Kind of Hunger
Thoughtful and aesthetic climbing with good protection on brilliant rock. Harder and perhaps a bit more committing than 'Take Five' but without the runout at the start (although you want to concentrate for the start of pitch 3). The line is obvious in the photo on p273 of the current Tempest/Mentz guide. Start up 'Watchtower Chimney Direct Start', the bottomless crack 3m R of Take Five.
Follow 'Rotten Row', continue up the wall above or rappel from the rings about 8m R of the corner. There is a single U-bolt overhead at the base of the 'Driftwood' chimney; a 60m abseil from this reaches the ground. Description taken from Stuart's post on Chockstone 首攀: Stuart Hollaway, Peter Arch & Alice Arch, 2012 | 90m, 3 | |||
20 R | ★★ Watchtower Chimney Direct Start
Originally named "Pantouflage Direct Start", with the directions to continue up Watchtower Chimney. From this you can deduce hat we thought of one climb and which guidebook editor lacked a sense of humour. Crack 3 metres right of 'Take Five' and 6 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'. When it fades continue boldly up to join 'Watchtower Chimney'. 首攀: Neil Barr & Peter Watling.., 1980 | 15m | |||
12 | ★★ Watchtower Chimney
1
12
45m
2
8
17m
3
12
31m
4
8
18m
A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line! Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.
首攀: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie & Garry Kerkin, 1965 | 110m, 4, 1 | |||
10 | ★★ Chicken Express
The express route to Mr. Chicken!
定线/开线: Ewa Siedlecka, Jacob Bridgeman & Josemalene Ruaya, 28 9月 2016 自由首攀: Ewa Siedlecka, Jacob Bridgeman & Josemalene Ruaya, 28 9月 2016 首攀: Ewa Siedlecka, Jacob Bridgeman & Josemalene Ruaya, 28 9月 2016 | 75m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Radio Days
An excellent test-piece pitch and a very bold onsight lead by Maureen back in the day. The grey seam on the slabby wall immediately L of Watchtower Chimney is gained via the concave slab and wall just L of the bulging nose. Awkward and unprotected moves gain the nose, then the seam is climbed until it runs out. Take a deep breath and keep going boldly up the slab to the traverse on Watchtower Chimney. At the ancient carrot bolt, continue straight up the enjoyable crack to a narrow ledge. The original route moved L and finished up the easy arete but it is much more enjoyable to climb the unlikely wall directly above to the lower-off (35m) anchors. There is a 50m wandering finish that no one does. David Gallagher and Sue Baxter seconded the second half of the described pitch as they originally split the pitch at the carrot bolt. Glenn Tempest added the independent start and straightened the pitch near the top in July 2018. 首攀: Maureen Gallagher, Chris Baxter (alt) & David Gallagher, 1987 | 35m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Watchtower Days
An enjoyable combination pitch (Watchtower Chimney and Radio Days) which has already become quite popular. Climb Watchtower Chimney's initial crack to the traverse. Move 2m L to the ancient carrot bolt. Straight up the crack above (Radio Days) to a narrow ledge. Directly up the wall above (avoiding the easier climbing up the arete on the L) to the big ledge and lower-off / rappel anchors. | 35m, 1 | |||
22 | Shingleback
A good pitch which essentially straightens out the first pitch of Tiliqua. Up Watchtower Chimney to the traverse. Step L one metre and climb the crack and balancy smooth wall above. After all the drama, step up L on the undercling and pull the final bulge to the ledge and lower-off anchors (35m). 首攀: Glenn Tempest, Karen Tempest & Geoff Little, 7月 2018 | 35m | |||
19 | ★ Tiliqua
The first pitch meanders a bit but it does offer some very pleasant climbing. It ends at the shared lower-off / rappel anchors of Shingleback . Originally climbed with further juggy pitches to the top of the Watchtower but they’re probably not worth the wander. Climb the seam immediately R of the start of Watchtower Chimney, which it joins near to its traverse. At the traverse, step 1m L and climb the lovely crack above (same as for Shingleback). After 4m leave the crack and traverse R across and up the wall to to gain an orange L-facing corner. Up this and move over L to the belay / rappel anchors on the ledge. Or... start up Watchtower Chimney and on the traverse left, go up the seam over bulge, and lower off at 30m. 首攀: Tim Lockwood & Keith Lockwood, 2009 | 43m | |||
18 | ★ Man Overboard
Start: At foot of Chimney on 'Watchtower Chimney'.
首攀: Keith Lockwood & Steve Williams, 1985 | 55m, 2 | |||
15 | ★★ colonal's eleven
No idea where this is supposed to be | 30m |
Showing all 40 线路.