线路 in Cairns

Follow easiest line of holds all the way up and out.

Follow easiest line of holds up to horizontal juggy break before moving right on jugs and big undercling. Layback the crack up to the flat ledge before moving back left and finishing as for The Weir.

Swim through the hole and climb out of the pit!

An airy, delicate traverse at mid-height across the back of the pinnacle and 25m above the water to a crack splitting an overhang to an eyrie-like belay and rap station.

A 30m aréte, split by cracks rising out of a clear pool.

At lower ampitheatre

To the right of the PBS through a 45deg overhang.

Further to the right again.

Beginning at the top of the ramp.

Some clean, sweeping dihedrals that lead directly up from the ramp give great climbing (on left)

Some clean, sweeping dihedrals that lead directly up from the ramp give great climbing (on right)

A 40m, steep, sustained face and crack climb in the Lower Amphitheatre.

To the left of Tag Team. A 30m sheer sweeping wall with a series of small horizontal edges.

At the back of the Lower Amphitheatre (there are over 10 routes). The first route to go through to the Upper Amphitheatre.

On the far side of the Lower Amphitheatre, a very thin route involving delicate stemming.

Awesome highball problem. Hand to offwidth crack trending left up the black face. Top out is vegetated so watch out for lawyer vine.

Look for the white scooped Boulder to the left, just before the small 7 sign. Stand start layback on large flaring crack. Up finger crack trending left. Take care when topping out, lots of lawyer vine

Start off high ledge on the right. Work your way up the arete via scoops and crimps. Tall and awesome.

Stand start on double gastons, move through the black and gold streak on small crimps. Gain the arete and finish as for Tall Tales.

Stand start on small crimps, bust up the face to the top!

Up the slab to the top, take care on the way down.

Stand start with slopey edge on face and pinch on arete. Move up the arete with pinches and a crimp before gaining the left arete and mantling.

Stand start with fingers low in crack, jam the way up!

Start low in the crack at back of triangle cut out. Stem your way up and out!

Sit start compressing arete. Smear the feet and away you go.

Start with good right foot and right hand sidepull. Straight up the face through the flakes to an easy top out.

Start in scoop facing outward with feet on big slopey edge and palms pressing low on inside of scoop. Wrestle your way out via hard palm press in roof.

Sit start with left hand slot and right heel hook, RH on whatever works. Up n' left.

Start on lowest good edge rail, go straight up the steepness via big moves on jugs.

Start at the bottom of the lip, traverse left and mantle just before the corner.

Start on jug, launch to lip.

Start low on jug rail, use small sidepull in seam and slopey left gaston to follow the corner up and out. Goodluck keeping your left elbow from dabbing.

Start in break above water, climb juggy crack.

Sit start on good flake, make your way out the scoop via underclings. Follow the lip left before mantling up the nothingness.

Start sitting in the perfect seat feature at the back of the scoop, contort your way out before moving left and up.

Start low right on jug, slap and squeeze your way up the perfect fridge feature.

Stand start compressing the aretes, slap up to the lip and follow it to the apex before mantling.

Start up the ramp and follow the arete to the apex of the fin before mantling.

Sit start on jug on arete.

Stand start with good LH sidepull, RH edge. Move up slopey crimps and top out to the L. Direct top out harder.

Crouch start low on arete with LH on good sidepull and RH on low, small, rounded crimp on arete. Move up through slopey ledges and LH sidepull to slopey crimp. Bust out to jugs, out L of the arete to top out.

Sit start at middle of boulder on low small holds. Heads up and R.

Sit start on jug, far R end of boulder. Up via cool slots and slopers to top edge. head out left to top out at highest point.

Begin squat starting with large undercling rail in mini cave. Has sloper, semi-good hold, and high right jug. Tops out above left sloper on ledge platform.

Start low under mini roof on small edge and sizable vertical pinch. Pop up a couple of times to gain prow and topout along dorsal-fin-like feature.

Start on corner, work pocket and crack looking piece to out far left above dirty crack. Go straight up if you find holds.

Traverse left to right, top lip is in

Start central seated, into layback out right to top (V1 ways of doing climb if starting higher, V2 from low edges)

Start far right, few moves to top. Mind the loose hold, better small edge for open hand crimp

Start low under over hang. Midway jug and far right lip edge in. Work up and left to gain top lip slopers and rail sloper, then to upper edges to gain topout jug feature.

Jared Tyerman

Sit start on 2 edges, rise up to lip and topout (on small boulder just downstream of Skelington).

Squat start with right sidepull and low edge. Gain high hold and traverse into top of Compadre.

Can set up a slackline over the water here between the bolted anchor (left of image) and a tree root (right of image). Needs cord and some maillons for bolted anchor. 10m ish.

Traverse right to left along wall, top at end above mossy section or fall in where you please. No chalk or shoes required. Shallow far right for start.

Trek up many good features.

Up LL to ledge, downclimb left, head under bulge to tooth hold and rad movements to gain top of bloc.

Up smaller holds, traverse into corner, out roof, up headwall to rail via big move.

Start on a few thin pinching holds, climb into rails, up through breaks. Matched finish.

As for Water Stone but start 1m to left. Reachy or dynamic first move rail to rail.

Up flakes, across and under roof, over bulge.

Water start central left of cave, move through roof, join TFoTTF.

Low right hold, into off-right vertical undercling, lean out and dyno (sort of) to central jug. Top out.

Sit start matched on jug in middle of overhung face. Move to softball sized 3 finger pocket and large pinch-arete (over small ledge). Can toehook. Move to small two finger pocket (snooker ball size). Feet follow hands, can knee bar (sharp shark teeth). Edge (kidney shape hole). Then sloping pinch. Edge 10cm below top. Top out.

Start on same hold as technically speaking. Move left and top out.

Stand start on far left of the two boulders. traverse right staying at least a foot off the ground. Finish far right of second boulder

The slightly smaller boulder on the left. Sit start on giant sidepull. Top out on highest point.

Get yo' ass up the wall. Start bottom right corner up jug-like features with a minor mantle, then finish on slab heading straight up.

Follow line of ledges to laybacks to seam to underclings, jugs and topout. A few low feet but, though not on the ground.

Jared Tyerman

Same first few moves as TR then veers diagonally up and left. Follow pocketed black face (holds used were pockets, slopey edge, jug feature on upper lip then the undercling under the topout feature plus the topout feature itself). Finishes left of central top prow. V1 if using many upper lip holds.

Traverse right to left as low as possible. The route name says it all. (East side of rock stood on for spotting of TR / SF / BE)

One move wonder really. Sit start under the small overhang, hands in the pockets and throw for the top lip, then mantle out and head to the top.

Bolted line starting just left of the gentle aréte at the first amphitheater you turn into. Fun partial cruxy move mid way.

The crack in the corner toward the left of the first amphitheater you turn into. Is climbed breaking the crack into 2 pitches.

1. 20m (18) Ground to cave mid way. Belay out of this.

2. 25m (18) Then up crack and slab. Up semi overhang to ledge.

Has 2 rappel bolts (spread far apart - be wary). Alternatively traverses right and up to a bolted anchor to rappel (take link as are hangers). Steep in parts. Has great views of Cairns and Green Island.

This traditional climbing line will get you from the base of the cliff all the way directly to the lookout at the top of Glacier Rock where you can walk out without rappelling back to the ground (so take everything with you), go light, take 2 ropes (in case of need to rappel), slings & biners, a double rack of cams, and a quicklink in case.

1. 45m (18) 'F#ck the Juggernaut' - Start as for Juggernaut following 45m part offwidth part stellar hand jam crack directly up corner but link into a single pitch. Great movements. Can place protection on slab as well as climb on this when the crack is a little chossy mid way. Head up and around over hang then slightly up and right to small cave on ledge to set up natural belay.

2. 10m (17) 'Bouldering on a Multi Pitch' - Head up and right on black slab to lip. Place a piece early and run out to lip. Semi committing move. Once past lip and on ledge set up anchor using either natural pro or bolted anchor on floor. Now look up to see mighty proud white slab (this is your heading).

3. 25m (14) 'Of Choss and Vegetation' - Again, place an early piece then head up chunky arete right next to belay (can muscle up or commit to slab/arete). After this you will topout into vegetation, follow this to large boulders placing some solid pieces and climb straight up and slightly left (be mindful of loose rock - choss). Continue past this through veg to base of slab. Extend gear (reducing drag) and head up a few metres then right to make natural belay on top of boulders below mighty proud white slab.

4. 20m (18) 'Cracked System' - Traverse slightly right to base of bouldery crack system (can set up a more direct belay here to reduce drag). Head straight up following bouldery cracks into short roof hand jam crack. Stellar sick moves (especially if your feet cut ). Head up a few metres to obvious solid boulder to set up anchor in cracks (Take a 0.1 cam as it is vital for the natural belay! - Bomber). The proud white slab is up for grabs and has cracks for pro - can access from lookout to send in isolation.

5. 50m (8) 'Scramble to The Top' - Head straight up on left side of belay slinging trees as you go for peace of mind. After a wee while the lookout trees will emerge (large shiny and strong). Belay off these and high-five your partner/party as they reach the belay, saying hi to any hikers who may pass by during the process .

Ethic: Wear helmets, climb cautiously and understand the escape points (bolted anchor atop pitch 2 - requires mallions - or semi dodgy looking rappel rings atop pitch 1). This climb surprisingly has some shade all day on the tops of pitch 1 and pitch 3 - good for recuperating.

Lower area - far right climb (higher up slope)

Lower area - central climb (next to/alongside MLJ)

Lower area - far left climb (lower down slope)

Links TT to the top of pitch 2 of MegaLuv following dihedral. Thereby a trad link between 2 sport anchors/lines.

From the lower section of Glacier in the shaded alcove, walk around the large boulder and start at 2m long hand crack below small slab (you will see first bolt above you). This crack start has been said to be the hardest part for those who don't hand jam well, but is honestly pretty chill.

Will need 16 draws plus anchor/belay setup (or 18 draws). First pitch is quick draw hungry.

1. 30m (19, mild crux) Up short crack and onto mini slab following bolts past overhang (might want to extend a draw). Traverse to right gaining mild exposure and up wall again following bolts. Keep climbing until you reach ledge with dirt and trees. Ring and chains here to belay off.

2. 28m (17) Traverse to the right (keep an eye out for the bolts as they become elusive). After about 3 bolts head up mild rounded arete onto mega jug hauling and decent exposure (be sure to look back at the view). Follow up line to large 2nd ledge at base of far right tree. Here there is another chain and ring setup. Be sure to use this anchor to belay and not to rappel!!! There is an anchor further to the left to rappel later (following string, stay on belay). Next pitch goes up from this far right anchor.

3. 18m (16) Head up slightly left from anchor following bolts to right of arete-feature, up to prow (big ledge, like a ship's bow! ). Here the belay anchor is on the ledge on flat ground - not wall - good to belay while sitting. Chains and ring again.

4. 12m (18, 2nd crux - style change) Stay on belay to walk to huge rock block to begin climb, can belay from tree. Here is the most unexpected part of the climb - the gnarly slab. Follow either left arete or central-right face climb (depends if you like slopers or gnarly micro edges/crimps - using quartz veins, recommended). Follow slab up to ledge where same anchor type as previous is. Fits up to 5 people on ledge. Bit squishy.

Escape:

This line requires a rappel off due to it not topping out.

To rappel from pitch 4 use ring at top of slab to get back to anchors at top of pitch 3.

Rappel from top of pitch 3 anchor's ring (be sure it isn't twisted!) to get to top of Pitch 2.

HERE YOU MUST NOT RAPPEL FROM ANCHOR AT TOP OF PITCH 2, IT WILL BE TOO LONG OF A RAPPEL! Follow paracord along ledge, to the left when looking at the wall (stay on belay) to anchor about halfway along paracord length. Here rappel from ring as before (60m rope minimum). When at bottom be sure to flick rope when pulling as it has been known to get caught in the wall.

Walk right along ledge past tree (safety to this) to use the anchor ring at top of pitch 1 to rappel back to the ground. Tie knots! Use a prussic! - this rappel is airy.

Also there is an escape from the very left hand side of the top of pitch 2. This is a bush scramble down from the left of the far left rappel anchor. It takes you back down to the bottom bringing you out to the left of the start of the first pitch. Still be careful, steep and loose as there is no real track here, but works in dire need.

Ethic:

Be safe, wear helmets (some loose rock- would otherwise be 3 star), take all rubbish from area, respect wildlife, vegetation, rock and hardware.

Obvious face line from good holds to high feet and high rail/pocket, good to throw to top from here and top out.

Traverse left to right, slopey holds and few feet, stay low, use final low ledges (get low) and top out to the right where corner of ledge is. Pumpy

Sit by right side of ^ shape wide feet. Move from big rails to point feature followed by a nice far right hold (cutting feet on this feels gnarly), tops out to left side of boulder next to small tree.

Traverse left to right starting seated, between tree and rock, under fern and up to top right point of boulder.

Just behind boulder with TST etc.

Stand start. Start on edge and undercling, foot on obvious separate rock. Small edge, feature, and jug for topout. Yet to be done using footholds on the wall to start (harder).

Start squatted on edge and low jug, feet off ground. To jug, feature, 2 slopers, topout with good hold. Pad well and don't fall in the water.

Start on low left positive pocketed edge and semi-sloper up and right through series of slanted ledges. Crux is 4 moves in and the rest is pumpy. Tops out on far right of boulder.

Start on good hold and micro crimp. Works though series of holds and delicate grooved footers. Tops out via nose into scrub.

Start on smooth groove and jug, delicate feet. Sidepull to nose. Same ending as Port. Breakable holds.

Start low, sharp foot, good holds. Gain flat jug. Work to another and mantle onto mini shelf.

Cameron Whycherley

Cameron Whycherley

The climb starts on the right-hand side of the cliff, on a ledge. The belay bolt is on the left-hand side of the ledge and the first lead bolt is within reach.

This stunning line will lift you from the forest canopy to soaring heights with amazing views back onto the ocean and all the sun exposure you can handle. Take plenty of water and enjoy the breaks on two large ledges along the way. The lead bolts are 6mm twisties and the anchors are a mixture of expansions and twisties.

1. 25m (19) Traverse left and Up along interesting moves, 3D holds and a cheeky right traverse to finish. This is a long and wandering pitch, so extend draws as required and watch for ledge falls. Finish at P1 anchors for a stance/hanging belay that has enough room for three people.

2. 20m (16) Crimpy, slabby, enjoy the view, credit card edges and finger pockets. This will be your rest, so soak it in. You will finish on a fantastic halfway ledge with enough room for dance. Note that you can escape off the climb by traversing along this ledge. The escape is protected by some expansion bolt and a very short grade 14 diagonal slab.

3. 20m (22) Grade 22 with the sequence, 20ish with the reach. Business Time crux pitch, with the hardest move off the deck. Forgiving bolt spacing will help you aid the crux if necessary. The dirty mantle protecting the finish is pure FNQ filth, grab whatever you need to get over this edge. P3 belay is a large ledge. Watch out for bees and lantana. For the 2nder, unclip and retrieve the first couple draws before setting off for the crux to make your life easier. Also the top belayer needs to watch tension here once the climber sets off incase they fall mid crux. With rope stretch the climber could fall into space and find it tricky to get back on #prussics.

4. 26m (19) Fun to start, tricky finish. Steppy, ledgy then becomes vertical with the crux in the last 5m. P4 belay is a seated belay on a slabby edge. The views are stunning! Watch the sharp edge on your rope just before the belay.

5. 12m (5) Legend says the first ascent of this pitch was hands-free, no shoes, no chalk. Please respect this ethic. As contrived as it is, you will finish at the summit proper.

Descent: Rap from P5 down to P4 anchor. Do not try linking the rappel to the top of pitch 3 without an 80m rope (and if done, mitigate rope drag). From P4 anchor, retrace the line. Is advisable to not link pitches on rappel. From P1 anchor, rap straight to the ground, not back to the starting belay bolt.

Follow thin crack past chock stone onto grassy ledge then up finger crack to larger fig beyond slab for natural anchor. Crack isn't great for nuts, better off taking a handful of cams no greater than 0.75 BD. Can alternatively end to left along slab after higher finger crack to bolted anchors.

Fun, short, traverses.

Three hangers on climb and two hangers for anchor. It has no rings at anchor thereby setup anchor via preferred method (draws or cordellette and biners). Can clean using higher rappel bolts or poles. Do not feed rope through bolt plates (hangers) to lower!

Start off block, head straight through the roof to a big move before veering left and up. The top is very overgrown so feel free to use a vine to mantle. Amazing boulder!