Showing all 7 线路.
Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
12 | ★★★ Comino-Waring Ledge
A broad, sloping ledge connecting the North-Leaning Saddle with the top of Leaning Ridge just below the summit of Leaning Peak. From the saddle, traverse the exposed ledge on the North Face until a way up can be found on the far side of the summit. No trees at crux, cams required. 首攀: Bob Waring, 1949 | 50m | |||
14 | ★★ Leaning Peak North Face Route
The climb starts at the 750m contour line about 200m up the right hand gully which slopes diagonally right across the face and intersects Leaning Ridge. This starting point is below a hanging rock and right of an overhanging lip. The start of "Chockstone Gully" can be found about half an hour above Barney Waterfall where Moonlight Slabs eases briefly to a series of open, low angled expansive slabs. The climb is a long adventure route, with classy slab climbing leading to the summit headwall. Single rack will suffice, takes mostly medium cams. Despite the grade, this is a remote climb and good routefinding skills and good headspace for long runouts are a must. 首攀: C. Meadows, M. Meadows & J. Shera, 1968 | 410m, 7 | |||
5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge
APPROACH: From Lower Portals car park follow the track to The Lower Portals (3.8 km) and once at the portals bypass them by taking the steep track on the right. Up to the ridge and back down to the creek. Rock hop upstream until you get to Barney waterfall (on your left). Scramble to the top of the waterfall on the left and walk across the waterfall, the route starts here just above water pools scooped in the slab. ROUTE DESCRIPTION:
To descend: Walk along top of peak towards East Peak and walk down until bolted anchor is reached, from here, abseil (60m rope recommended) into the saddle. Notes:
| 600m | |||
13 | Plum Bob
Approach the Leaning Peak from the Short Leaning Ridge. Two cracks become obvious apart from the face. The left crack separates Leaning Peak from North Peak. Descend into the right crack and belay of tree in right crack.
首攀: S. Tanner & R. Allen, 1969 | 310m | |||
17 | ★★ The Barney Couloir
"This spectacular gully can be seen from a very long way off. It is the gully on the left side of Leaning Peak North Face and appears to separate Leaning Peak from the rest of the massif. First climbed in 1976 by Barry Ingham and Peter Paterson, the route at first is straightforward with the difficulty gradually increasing towards the top as it should be on all great climbs! There is poor protection (and rock) on the difficult sections." - Rob Rankin's Secrets of the Scenic Rim 首攀: Barry Ingham & Peter Paterson, 1976 | 360m, 7 | |||
5 R | ★★★ Long Leaning Ridge
Some tricky scrambling on exposed rock. The first challenge is a large slab past the first pinnacle. Bypass this slab by following the base of the slab to the west. After this second pinnacle you'll reach the massive slab which traverses to the east towards Short Leaning Ridge. Follow the slab down and Eastward until a large horizontal crack makes a traverse across the slab to some bigger trees doable. Head up and Eastwards avoiding danger by following the vegetation up until you are forced to make a mad scramble up over an exposed arête on good footholds and handholds. A rope may be handy here. The next obstacle isn't encountered until the long scrubby ridge comes to a minor peak and heads down into a rocky saddle. Progress is now only possible by heading down to the West of Leaning Peak and up a gully eastwards to Leaning Peak. Short Leaning Ridge route is eventually joined and a couple of exposed cruxy moves are encountered before the final scramble to the summit. Note: An alternative way of bypassing the second slab is by heading up eastwards until a corner with a crack on it is encountered. It is a 4-5m grade 11 climb which can be done unprotected (use the bollard past the crack to secure the next move) or place a nut (size 9) to protect the crack. The ridge is easily accessed by scrambling the face past the short climbing section. | 900m | |||
Moonlight slabs/Barney waterfall route |
Showing all 7 线路.