The full-on climbing through the bulge onto the big ledge relents to a nice bridging corner. Step L when the corner fades out and scramble a further 8m to belay from the manuka. The corner is a drainage line which can take some time to dry out after rain.
A grade 13 that overhangs for 20 metres? An excellent adventure for the grade. Originally started further L, the best start is up the wide crack past the chockstone (as for Mandrake). For the two stars (and better pro), climb diagonally R up the upper wall to finish as for Transmag. Watch out for rope drag on this wandering excursion.
Walk up the grand coloir until you reach the Petit Couloir. The climb starts close to the end of the little band of scree which goes into the start of the Petit Couloir, before it gets steep.
50m (13) Start under the small rooflet and head up the crack until you reach easier ground where you can set a belay
55m (9) Up crack, move right up the steeper terrain and then back left to a belay
60m (10) The best pitch! Move up the steep rock onto series of small steep ledges.
Climb starts around here but the marker might be slightly off.
Up slab to DBA. The second pitch begins by climbing a corner and a big flake, where a belay is advised. The third pitch is crux: up the tricky slab, then clip one bolt and climb the roof (3 bolts, 23 or A1/13). Belay after you pull the lip. Run out the next 50m to DBA.
The slab to the right of Bluffs Big Chimney, uses the wall on the right too. Clip the first bolt before starting to avoid taking a trip with Captain Cook to Davey Jones Locker with your belayer. A good beginner's lead with just enough feeling of exposure. Is exactly the same line as Foveaux Slab.
At the Bivi Wall; it should be obvious. Easy trad climb, much like a railway crack line to start with. Finishing on a very nice single crack. It was first climbed in the raining wearing the kiwi classic footwear, 'Gumboots'
