条目 in San Francisco and Peninsula

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Public land.

A selection of highly tide-dependent boulder problems on a secluded (by big city standards) beach.

A small, but reasonably good selection of tide- & swell-dependent highball boulder problems between the northern end of Ocean Beach and the ruins of the Sutro Baths, below the Cliff House.

The initial wall has a few mediocre problems that drop before the (loose!) top. Not tide affected.

The main area, offering a small number of generally good quality highball problems.

Up using large flat edges (avoid the jugs for added value).

Good introductory problem.

The face the next two routes are on has a variety of quality variants and eliminates.

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

This is NPS land (part of the GGNRA).

Straight up from a flat edge just above head height.

Classic laybacking down low. Shame it's so short!

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

This is NPS land (part of the GGNRA).

A little loose up high. Can escape right if need be.

Low crux.

Can escape right, if the top roof is too scary.

Awkward crux at half height, just as the rock gets bad.

Watch the rock behind.

Watch the rock behind.

Usually done left to right.

On the right side of the cave.

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

This is NPS land (part of the GGNRA).

There are at least two well-known problems inside the cave, and potential for a couple more. It's usually pretty damp however, and there's often trash (including broken glass).

Slaps up the steep, blunt arete, then drop from the jug. Can be extended by starting further right (V6).

There's another problem on the stalactite feature further inside the cave. It's usually damp, however.

There are a number of worthwhile problems scattered along the cliff line to the north of the Main Wall. Most of these are only accessible during periods of extreme low tide and/or high sand, and some of them are best accessed by walking south from the ruins of the Sutro Baths.

The following photo shows a 20' high wall that's a good example of what's on offer:

Located right in the middle of San Francisco, you'll find a handful of fun, moderate slab routes on one of the largest exposed slickensides in the world.

According to the Bay Area Rock guide, there's a 5.11 route up the face to the left of the crack (topo is approximate). Expect thin moves up a chossy face, especially near the top, with lots of loose rock near the fence posts.

Follow the horizontal crack over to the main vertical crack, with interesting crux moves at the horizontal traverse. If leading or aiding, look for the hangerless bolt two-thirds the way up in the middle of the glassy face. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts.

Top anchor is chains which are often backed up with a sling on the second fence post. You don't have to climb over the fences to set up a top rope; however, if you do pull the chains under the fence, be very careful to avoid knocking rocks over the cliff.

The aid grade for this route is C1+ to C2 R.

An interesting and recommended mid-5.10 variation on all of the main routes is to avoid the vertical crack, using only face holds just to the right of the crack.

The direct variation is easier and has a few interesting moves off the ground. Climb directly up the face to the crack. The crux is low with no opportunities to place pro before reaching the main crack.

If aid climbing, the low section can be aided with hooks, then pro to 2.5" and many small nuts for the crack. The aid grade for this route is C2 to C3 R.

Follow the thin crack up and to the right of the direct start before climbing the thin face (balancy crux) back and to the left.

Start on 'Right of Direct Start'[16450741] but continue up the face, avoiding the crack until the very top of the route.

A line of micro edges leads straight up to the fencepost to the right of the crack. The holds are small and painful, but the rock quality is good enough. The Bay Area Rock guide lists this as 5.11+, but it's probably harder.

Three hangerless bolts, two bolts with hangers, and one piton mark a line up the dirty, chossy face with very thin holds and balancy moves. Face climbing up past two or three old bolt holes will get you to the first hangerless bolt. Use the right-most doubled up fence post as a top anchor.

An overgrown chert wall / boulder with a few ok easy problems.

By far the best outdoor area in San Francisco. Super convenient (10mins walk from Glen Park BART) and with unique rock.

The status of climbing and bouldering on this outcrop is unclear - while issue GC/OH-3 in the SF Parks & Rec Significant Natural Resource Area (pages 6.3-12 and 6.3-13) discusses climbing with specific reference to other outcrops in the park, access to this outcrop is not clearly specified. Climbers are requested to stay away from this area, while the access status is clarified.

The long band of obvious boulders up high on the eastern side of the canyon below Berkeley Way. Mostly doesn't work for bouldering / climbing.

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

Best top-roped, due to bad landing. Anchor off slung blocks and large cams.

Best top-roped, due to bad landing. Anchor off slung blocks and large cams.

This gorgeous little wall is great for kids & beginners. Shame there isn't more of it!

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

The cute little boulder in front of Sunny Wall.

Watch out for poison oak around the base.

There are a couple of climbable features scattered further along the rock band.

Up the steep pillar. Harder if you don't use either arete.

Probably best to top-rope this one too.

The status of climbing and bouldering on this outcrop is unclear - while issue GC/OH-3 in the SF Parks & Rec Significant Natural Resource Area (pages 6.3-12 and 6.3-13) discusses climbing with specific reference to other outcrops in the park, access to this outcrop is not clearly specified. Climbers are requested to stay away from this area, while the access status is clarified.

The obvious buttress with the dark overhang on the downhill side.

A sketchy descent / ascent route. Vastly better to walk in & out to the right (facing the cliff).

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

Has been bouldered / soloed, but has a terrible landing so is better top roped (medium to large cams and a slung boulder well back from the top - watch for poison oak).

Hard!

The blunt arete and V-notch surfboard-esque overhang. Deceptive!

The status of climbing and bouldering on this outcrop is unclear - while issue GC/OH-3 in the SF Parks & Rec Significant Natural Resource Area (pages 6.3-12 and 6.3-13) discusses climbing with specific reference to other outcrops in the park, access to this outcrop is not clearly specified. Climbers are requested to stay away from this area, while the access status is clarified.

The chossy 35' tall buttress with an obvious loose corner crack splitting it down low, and a tree growing on top.

This is by far the most popular sector in Glen Canyon, and with good reason. It has a reasonably large number of independent lines and two panels that offer a very high concentration of variations and eliminates, making it an excellent training venue. Not all of the lines are listed here, nor are any of the variants or eliminates - a great opportunity to be imaginative and make something up!

Many of the problems are fairly highball (up to about 5m high), though you're never far from a jug, so escape is usually feasible. Landings however are not the best, with lots of rocky points poking up out of the ground, and a steep hillside dropping away not far from many landings. A mat and spotter are highly recommended, though insufficient for some of the highest / hardest highballs - a toprope is worth bringing if you want to get on those.

The steep prow on the right side of the chimney, using holds inside the chimney where needed. Note that some of the holds up high are loose, and there's a dangerous rock right in the landing zone.

The proud squeeze chimney, with two exits - behind the chockstone (tight), or in front of it.

Would recommend not being in here when an earthquake hits...

The classic introductory Glen Park problem.

Please be gentle with the lower right-hand starting crimp - it has started getting slightly wobbly in recent years. In particular don't try to wobble it, and don't use it as a foothold!

X rated without a rope, as the tenuous crux is right at the top.

There are numerous traverses, variants and eliminates all over the steep prow between 'The Chimney' and 'The Slab'[510419118] - many of the holds here have been named by locals.

The smaller boulder in front of The Slab.

Up the slab without using your hands. There are at least 3 independent variants - left, centre and right (slightly harder).

Circumnavigate the isolated boulder. Crux is getting around the low bulge that's the start of 'Undercling Problem'.

Excellent - takes in the best climbing of the Traverse. Harder variant stays low when traversing right.

Sit start and stay true to the arete, avoiding the temptation to move left (or right).

The large boulder downhill from The Prow, with a large poison oak bush on top. Please be especially careful descending the hill to get here - SF Rec & Park are concerned about erosion on this hillside.

As of late 2017 there's a large wasp's nest in the hillside just above this boulder. Best to avoid the area.

Back to the main cliff band.

Direct into the finish of The Rail. Watch for loose rock in the initial section - there has been at least one serious accident here when a hold ripped off.

Hand traverse the obvious rail slot diagonally up and right.

Take care not to damage the ferns.

Exposed left hand finish to 'The Corner'. Think light thoughts as you pass the "surfboard".

At the painted arrow. Hard, highball and with a bad landing - toprope recommended.

Up the slippery slickenside on small sharp crimps, or awkward, but easier climbing up the crack on the right (V1). Either downclimb the corner to the left, or follow the crack right around the bulge to a highball mantle. Bad landing.

Good descent for this part of the cliff.

Although the crack start is ok (albeit very easy), this problem is best done in 2 "pitches" by starting down underneath the overhang to the left (as for 'Wasp Overhang'). Gets highball quick, due to the slope of the hill underneath. Top rope using slung boulder anchor.

Through the high double overhang left of 'Lulu', via the well-chalked shallow undercling. Sustained, highball and with a bad landing - toprope strongly recommended. Also watch the rock at the bottom - some large holds ripped off in the late 2000s and some of what's left is loose.

Traverses the high rail slot left of 'Wasp Overhang' (passing a snapped off piton). Highball.

This is the usual finish for the Glen Park Traverse, but is a good problem in its own right. Watch out for the headcracker slab of rock in the landing zone.

There are numerous variants and eliminates all over the nice, steep wall extending away to the left of 'Roof Arete'.

A good introductory problem. Walk off right on the ledge and down 'Descent', or continue up the easy but pleasant wall above.

Start at the far left hand end of the lower wall and traverse right to finish up Roof Arete. Can be continued all the way along the Main Cliff Band at an easier grade.

Not clear exactly where this is located, or even if it's on the main cliff band. GPS coords of 37.740548,-122.442921 were provided, but that's further down the canyon in a non-rocky area.

The prominent cave ('The Unnatural Act') in the middle of the long, broken upper cliffline. Watch out for poison oak.

Most of the problems are best top-roped - bring gear (particularly small wires) for a natural anchor, and extend your anchor or protect your rope to minimise the impact of the sharp rock.

The blunt prow left of the V Chimney.

Up the slippery inverted V chimney, then up the crack above. Top rope recommended.

Avoids the hard part of The Unnatural Act by traversing above the roof, rather than underneath it.

The route Glen Park is famous for. A great roof problem that's best top-roped as it gets highball right at the crux.

Deceptively tricky and very slippery. Top rope recommended.

The best splitter at Glen Canyon, though it can be face climbed. Crux is down low. Watch for poison oak as you top-out.

Climbing and bouldering on this outcrop has been banned by SF Rec & Park - see issue GC/OH-3 in the SF Parks & Rec Significant Natural Resource Area (pages 6.3-12 and 6.3-13) for more details. For this reason climbers are requested to stay away from this area, to ensure we retain access to the other areas in the canyon (which offer better climbing anyway). Note that the SF Rec & Park NRMP Glen Canyon location map contains a typo which makes it hard to discern which areas are open and which are closed.

The menacing buttress located across the creek from the north-western end of the upper cliff band. The main wall is overgrown with poison oak, and the remaining walls and blocks are generally not great for climbing / bouldering (the landings, in particular, are treacherous).

Also referred to as "Deep Canyon Boulder" on some sites.

Prominent 45' slab towards the top of O'Shaughnessy Blvd, with two reasonably old bolts as anchors on top (best to bring long slings / spare ropes to back them up with trees). Technically part of Glen Canyon, but described separately as O'Shaughnessy Blvd creates an impenetrable barrier.

A quite impressive line of walls and buttresses that unfortunately doesn't quite "work". Toilet Mind being the one exception (assuming the poison oak hasn't regrown).