攀登 of West Crack

Howling wind sure makes this climb feel extreme. We chose to back off after the first pitch rather then continue.

Fun climb w Erik

Very nice route. The start is the clear face climbing crux and can be hard if you‘re not warmed up or used to the rock. Bolted anchor on P1, with rap rings. After that, you need to build your own anchors. The jam crux, for me, was P3, a thin seam with finger jams and narrow toe jams, without too many opportunities to relax your feet on the face outside of the crack. Last pitch is runout to the top, no pro to be had.

Descent: Rap twice (with 60 m rope) on the backside of the dome. With 70 m you might be good woth a single rap, but you won‘t see in advance if your ropes touch the ground. The rap station is right next to a significant tree. The rap bolts should be replaced, very rusty. On solid ground, go right to descend to your car, or left to get back to the base — caution, you‘ll have to scramble down some low angle slab, but easy in the dry, even in sneakers.

My best multipitch of the trip. We managed it in 4 pitches though it officially goes at 6 (resulted in a few tricky anchors)

First pitch is the supposed crux pitch with its 5.9 face moves right off the ground. Protected by a bomber bolt, most will find this easy.

I found the 5.7/5.8 sustained finger crack far more challenging. Especially since it is nearly a whole rope length.

Do bring some larger 4"-5" pro to tame the offwidth and allow easy anchor building following the finger crack.

Beautiful!

3rd pitch is totally classic. Sustained 5.8 finger locks.

With Laura. 1st pitch only then bailed because we didn't bring enough warm clothes!

Simply glorious, one of the best routes I've ever done. With Nic.

With Lindsay - pitch 1 only due to impending storm. 51 metres of perfection

With Lindsay. So,back we go to finish the route. The 2nd pitch is as good or better than the first. Then the sky turned black on pitch 3, and on 4 we were hailed on. Rapped off in a waterfall off water and returned drenched. Fantastic route.

this is what climbing is about! one of my favorite routes ever. though the Falcon guide book listed this as a 5.8. rap station for descent on North side tricky to find, and trail goes right after you hit the ground (otherwise face a 5th class downclimb!). Beautiful climbing though, 5.7 pitch quite runout on good pebbles unless you have some bigger gear 4-6 inches. HAVE FUN!

classic long leadouts, good pro

Climbed first weekend Tioga pass opened

Roof pitch is awkward and exposed, probably easier for a shorter climber. Awesome finger crack P4.

Skip_Belay.oops

p1 only