Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
23 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Yim
1
19
25
lead by
Yim
2
20
25
lead by
Yim
Tough bulge moves
5
18
15
lead by
Yim
7
21
20
lead by
Hyahno Moser
Loved this pitch, such crazy moves in such an amazing location. Couldn't believe my body doing these moves. Awesome
8
18
20
lead by
Yim
9
14
25
lead by
Yim
10
17
15
lead by
Yim
13
23
20
lead by
Yim
Really ramped up the intensity here. I fell off the traverse, landed 3m below the roof 280m up. Wooohooo
14
22
20
lead by
Yim
Lovely holds awkward moves, cool position | 320m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | |||||
|
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Isolated Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ Eagle's Ridge - with James | 1500m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Everything we were after plus a little. Started at 6 from lwr portals campground following kangaroo trails and the ridge line thru the Tom tums. Found ourselves a bit off route descending isolated (stay SE if not rappelling?). Wild views and exposure up north peak then followed a path of sorts into the lenticular cloud to gain east peak. Bailed on descending via savages opting for SE ridge instead. Arrived at yellow pinch just in time to avoid the impending thunderstorm, waited that out, and limped back to camp in time for a twilight swim. Circuit took us just shy of 12hrs. Great to spend time in the mountains with James but we ought have less preexisting ailments for our next adventure I think.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | |||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge - with Yan, Winnie, Abbie, Craig, Danny | 600m | Average | ||||
A couple of mishaps and navigation errors turned what was meant to be a 11hr hike into a 2 days adventure. Had to sleep on the mountain for the night under emergency blanket & tarp. Ran out of water the next day but luckily we have some purifying tablets within the group. Definitely bring headlamp & extra supplies if you are planning to do this route.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
jaime toro
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
lead by
jaime toro
7
21
20m
lead by
jaime toro
10
17
15m
lead by
jaime toro
11
21
20m
lead by
jaime toro
12
20
20m
lead by
jaime toro
13
22
20m
lead by
Daniel Razzino
Tough one to onsight dropped it right at the last mantle the very technical The roof part below was choss bricks
14
22
20m
lead by
jaime toro
15
14
30m
lead by
jaime toro
| 320m | |||||
We linked pitches 1-2 3-4 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15
The mantel on pitch 13 is very technical Was abit hot today foot were on fire by the top Good day out was 13 hours car to car and we wastes about 2 hours looking for rap and start of the route |
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Daygin Prescott | 320m | Don't Bother | ||||
Bigwall style.
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Isolated Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ Eagle's Ridge | 1500m | |||||
Big day out with Liana, starting at 5:45 at LP car park. The day held the most vertical bush bashing I'd ever done, plenty of back of forth route finding to get down some of the peaks, enjoying some pretty wild vistas, a bit of exposed slab and plenty of Grass trees to poke you in the ears, eyes and nostrils on ascent. We navigated around one of Toms Tums after staring at it and thinking 'that looks a bit much', going east around the base with some more bush bashing through the veg and battling with some stubborn vines. We came to a gully with a fixed line, pulled some moves to get up out of the gully and once again were faced with a bit more gardening. Staring over at Isolated Peak we had the same thoughts of 'that looks a bit much', but before we knew it we were well above our previous peak and hadn't had much bowel quivering exposure to contend with. We kept up a consistent pace, stopping at each peak to take in the views and the overwhelming size of the landscape around us. We had amazing conditions for most of the day with cool temps, sunshine and great visibility right up until entering the clouds on East peak. We descended via South Ridge as we knew we'd be hiking some of it in the dark and wanted a well marked option to easily find our way back to Yellowpinch, where a jar of pickles was waiting. We reached the car around 7pm, still laughing, smiling and maybe a bit delirious.
|
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Joshua Malherbe
| 320m | |||||
Wasn't as hard to find as I thought, path seems pretty well defined at this point. Pitch seven was amazing, such awesome exposure. Also loved how much slab was on this climb absolutely epic!
|
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Nick Gresham
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | |||||
More french than free! I blame the bag. Honestly the climbing was not as hard as the walk down. My legs are shaking even thinking about it.
|
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Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Josiah Hess, me, dani hess
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
| 320m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge | 600m | |||||
Came to do Face of Long Leaning and missed the start. Decided on playing it smart and calling it and jsut to summit another way. Ended up going up something not quite this. Messed up the descent. Long day out. Lower Portals Water is the best tasting thing I've ever had. Glad we carried all the gear and ropes all day to never use it
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | |||||
found the two crux pitches hard and terrifying, seductive problem solving tho
|
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | |||||
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Bryn Norris
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | |||||
What an absurd adventure that will stick with me for the rest of my life! We both expected this route to be demanding and boy did it exceed all expectations. The early march up the mountain was really stunning, watching the layers of mountains slowly appear around us.
The route threw in its fair share of challenges, with a few crimps exploding here and there, but overall, it was epic. I found pitch 5 and 6 incredibly fun… traversing out into the abyss and gaining the odd jug to be able to turn around and bathe in the exposure, and then punching up into some great solid moves. Unreal. To go from a totally unseasoned gym climber a couple of years ago and hearing about this mega, seemingly unattainable route, to gaining enough experience to get up it, was a very surreal moment for me. Big ups to Bryn for being a weapon of a partner to train and execute this with! |
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Peter Forsyth
| 320m | |||||
Mega push from the boys. Never had a more stressful day in my life - glad to have had such an experience. Highlights were the gorgeous sunrise, the horrible sounds that came out of my mouth climbing past the overhang on pitch 7, Laura's BBQ scrolls at the top of pitch 9, the absolute screamer I took on pitch 14, and the downright F tier banter (as usual). Won't ever forget the crazy mix of emotions I felt after getting back on the horse and pulling up to the anchors on pitch 14. What a day!
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 2nd May 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Gus Mckelvie, StrongmanSam
1
19
25
2
20
25
3
20
20
4
16
25
5
18
15
6
21
20
7
21
20
8
18
20
9
14
25
10
17
15
11
21
20
12
20
20
13
22
20
14
22
20
15
14
30
| 320m | |||||
What a lovely day out, bit of choss here and there, some interesting bolt placements and cool exposure up a nice big rock.
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Tim Janetzki, Samuel Gough
1
19
25
2
20
25
3
20
20
4
16
25
5
18
15
6
21
20
7
21
20
8
18
20
9
14
25
10
17
15
11
21
20
12
20
20
13
22
20
14
22
20
15
14
30
| 320m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First multi-pitch and what an introduction! Huge thanks to Sam and Tim for taking me up this beautiful mountain! Just a fantastic experience! Even while seconding the whole route while in well over my head. There is definitely some choss to be found but overall a great time.
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
South Ridges | |||||||
1 ~2 | ★ South Ridge - with luccabroz | 850m | |||||
Public holiday madness. Didn't get away till midday so shot up peasents to give us some time to shoot the sunset - didn't disappoint! Few more interesting inverts added to the list 🕷️ #15
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Mon 3rd Apr 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 R | ★★★ Long Leaning Ridge - with Tom P | 900m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quintessential Barney. Lots of fun (and at times quite exposed) scrambling the whole way up. The final push looked far more intimidating from a far than in turned out to be - thankfully! Descended via short leaning and were treated to a beaut swim at the bottom, where Barney falls meets the creek
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Mon 20th Mar 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Fri 10th Mar 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Brosnan Degenaar | 320m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
TheCrag doesn't seem to like long reports so if you are curious what went down check out my write-up
https://docs.google.com/document/d/18SIg9d7rgus3KcUzcFSZjeU_OgDu6f34RTONiXwW_rs/edit?usp=sharing |
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Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Anthony Bristow | 320m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 25th Feb 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge - with Lucca | 900m | |||||
Passed two unlucky parties on the way up who got turned around by the final shute (<10min from the summit) due to wet rock. We pushed on and scored 360o views this time round, with not a soul in sight - cheerin. Saw some more cool creepy crawlies come night fall too.
Note: Creek at R.J. is getting low!
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Tue 31st Jan 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge - with Tom P, Connor Dean, Kobi Wickens, lachie | 750m | |||||
Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge - with Tom P, Martin Weir, Lachlan stephenson, Connor Dean | 750m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Invertebrate photo expedition number 1. Plan was Logans but again the weather had other ideas... We summited East peak just as the rain started coming down. Set up down by the creek and had a few naps as the rains rollled by. There's some funky creatures up there once you start looking for them! Keen to see what we come across over the coming months. We decided to have another crack up East peak in the morning to score the view but just as we neared the summit clouds rolled in again... maybe next time
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Wed 21st Dec 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 Hard | ★★ South-East Ridge - with Daygin Prescott | 900m | |||||
17 Hard | ★ East Face Route - with Daygin Prescott | 280m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Follow this for the trip report: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1pAzDut9lcp9y9PpDT2CkatVrwvEgtPLdvcMm-mLVedc/edit?usp=drivesdk
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Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
South Ridges | |||||||
1 ~2 | ★ South Ridge | 850m | |||||
Scotias bday bash. There was a severe weather warning for the area so we decided to play it safe and head up Souths. Dodged (most) of the storm! But still managed an eventful outing, more so for some than others...
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Wed 26th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge - with jim ben | 750m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After mobys recent 10th ascent, i decided it was probably time to quest up this route. Yim called with his rsvp at 9pm night before and so we blasted out there, bought some museli bars in boonah and determinedly drove south. Turns out my car doesnt have wheel allignment issues and it is physically possible for us to not hook right at the doogs! A rogue cow blocked the trailhead but he was a good boi and moved for us. Dont know how the lads run this thing. Its fucken long and steep. Also pretty happy with the decision to drive a car out and not ride bikes from brisbane. Nice to do abit of random scrumbl on some slabs and a beaut (but hot) day to be on a mou'n. Had a curry bag up top with a couple gents post-se ridge. We went down theyre way, lost the track 1472 times and had a nudie swim infront of a family back at yellowfin tuna car park. Cooked dins at the frog lookout infront of a gorgeous sunset.
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Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Cory Shearwin
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Amazing day out. Perfect weather, somehow wasn't too hot the entire day.
The walk in was a great time, I'm glad we had done it a few weeks prior as to not be tricked by all the false summits. Slogging up all the gear on the day was a pain, but definitely better than having to carry up enough equipment to camp the night. The climbing was a lot different than I imagined, lots of techy slab with perfectly sharp crimps the whole way up. The boulder problems and the traverse pitches were by far the best; providing fantastic moves and great exposure. Highlight of the trip was watching Cory perform a near perfect backflip whilst on the top rope when a crucial well chalked hold exploded during the crux of the pitch 7. Glad the hold waited for me to get through the lead. The climb took us longer than expected, mainly due to the second last pitch being absolutely soaked and the constant agony of climbing in bouldering shoes. Although in hindsight it was really nice topping out at sunset, easily the best and most rewarding sunset I've ever experienced it made for a very sweet end to the climbing. A great day out with a great mate. |
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge - with Jarred Vardy, Tom P, Geordie Carscadden | 750m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
10th summit of the beast. And what a day it was. Pedalled from Brisbane to Barney, shot up Logans, down Souths then back on the bike to Brisi in just under 21hrs (03:00 - 23:30 ish). Big day with the fellas! Many a Clif Bar consumed
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Leg 2 of the Barney Sufferfest with Moby, Jarred and Geordie. Cycled from Brisbane to Barney, summited then cycled back within a day.
Stinking hot at the start, leaving Yellowpinch at 10:20. Sweated buckets up until the start of the scramble where we were treated to some cloud cover for the rest of the hike. Surprisingly quick, about 2:15 car to summit. Descended Souths and made it back to Yellowpinch at about 4 for a swim. Started cycling home at quarter to five. Notably Geordies first time up Barney. |
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Brosnan Degenaar
| 320m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Far out, what a massive day out!
It took a total of 16 hours from car to car. We started hiking at 5am and got to the rappel station at about 7:15. Chilled out, had some food and went down to the base for an 8:30 start. We expected to top out by about 4pm but life had other plans and we ended up topping out at 5:45. Seeing the sunset from the top of Mount Barney was so beautiful but hiking back down in the dark was not ideal. We got back to the car at 9:15 after about 3 hours of hiking (and getting lost a couple of times). We were exhausted and sore but filled to the brim with stoke. Simply amazing. The climbing: The crux pitch was definitely the walk-in. Hiking up with 10kg of gear and water each was a struggle. We linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13, and 14-15. We only had trouble linking 2-3 because I ran out of draws just 2 bolts below the anchor. 16 draws just wasn't quite enough. Linking pitches 10-11 was necessary due to one of the quicklinks at the top of pitch 10 having a hole rusted through it. There was no way I'd set up a belay on that. The rock was ok for the most part, but some bad rock caused me to have a mad whipper while seconding on pitch 7. I called for some slack and climbed up into the overhang. I was sorting out my feet to get a sick drop knee and reach over the lip to get ready to mantle. All of a sudden, the hold keeping me into the wall exploded and I launched off, with all the slack leaving me hanging upside down with my head in a bush. Luckily I wasn't injured and I was able to make the mantle without that hold. I was a bit shaken and let Bros lead the next couple of pitches while I settled down. That was the most excitement I've ever had on a top rope, that's for sure! Other than that, there was some beautiful climbing to be done all throughout. Lots of slab, lots of sharp crimps, plenty of exposure and some amazing boulder moves mixed in. The standouts for me were the pitch 5 traverse with its great views and exposure, and pitch 11 with its super cool traversing moves over the void. I think pitch 14 would have been spectacular climbing, except the entire corner leading up to the third bolt was soaking wet. It took a tough bit of French aiding to get past that but then it was a sprint to the top on the last pitch. I reached the anchor and immediately felt such relief that we'd actually done it! The stoke is unmatched but the pain will keep me away, at least for a little while. |
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | |||||
Good climbing. Got charged by a pair of possums screaming war cries on the way down, pretty hilarious experience.
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Mon 12th Sep 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Dylan Glavas
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
... What Dylan said..
What an epic mission. First time touching Barney rock, straight onto the East Face. Beautiful climbing on better than anticipated rock, with incredible exposure and surroundings! Some of the coolest moves I've done on a multi- standout has to be the bouldery moves on the 21 pitch! Had me whooping with glee. Sustained climbing throughout the 22's as well! Props too Dylan for leading the first, that was heinous with the bag. Beautiful day out on one of the best faces in Queensland, what a day. I'm still not a fan of hiking though.. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Lee Prescott
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
WOOOOOOOOO! Fucking mega classic what an adventure. Rocked up back in Brissie and the day after straight into a solid white rock session. Sent hard, mega pub feed after then did out shopping.
Rocked up at yellow pinch carpark around 10/11pm and had a somewhat decent sleep on boulder mats under a full moon. The hype was real and it was intensifying. 5am wakeup, 6 hours sleep, being sore from the day before, a strong cup of prison blend, half a sub and racking our gear later we started walking around 620ish. Lee's first time up Barney so was tricked by every false peak, as we walked up we awed at the possible first ascents along the boulders on our way up, good times. The hype was real once reaching the drop off point, we ended up reaching the base of the climb at 10am. The "wooos!" were loud and we were stoked we had an amphitheater to cheer us right back on. Straight into it with the 19, we learnt early that seconding with the bag SUCKS! Super good climbing from the get go, loved every pitch and to be honest the rock quality was not all that bad, too be fair it has been trafficked long before our ascent, still had to trundle one last death block around pitch 7. We linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13 & 14-15. The pitches individually are really short and most of them can be linked easily. Standouts were the exposed boulder problem, the general exposure on the above belay, the solid crimpy climbing (all of it) and the gr 22 pitches. I had to fight for that first 22, had to do a big slap to the slopey shit over the lip and fully commit & even then it's not over! Seconding the second 22 was fucked, due to my error, coming around that first corner you need to reach up into a slot, I missed that slot and hit a razor sharp sloper, bearable but not for long... I go with my other hand for the slot, miss again and hit more razor sharp sloper, I kept slipping and slipping but no fucking chance I was letting go this far in!! Through persistence and psattt I finally got the slot while almost peeling off into the exposure below me, I trusted a slopey footer and pushed up to stand on a rest halfway into the pitch. More technical climbing ahead! Topping out (near 5pm) was super satisfying, our success echoed through the couloir, Lee's firs time topping barney was via the east face, so sick. Sweet, now the walk back down, took for ever! Bit of ticker needed to get us back down that hill jeesus! We talked about how much food we were gonna eat and how fucking rewarding it would be. We hit the cars pull out the boulder mats, sit down, smash a 1/4 of a sub and some tofu scramble and just, be. 111/10 what a time with a good mate. Will be back on this face in the future. Stoked! Very visionary to bolt this line on such a daunting face, good effort and much appreciated. |
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Isolated Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ Eagle's Ridge | 1500m | |||||
Solo ascent up Eagle's while Moby did his double ascent. Had this one on the cards for a while, foiled by COVID on my first attempt. A good day out, partly cloudy and exceptionally windy after Isolated. Phenomenal views from the isolated summit and some enjoyable scrambling from the slops of Tom's Tum onwards. My ITB injury flared up on the ascent.
Met Moby at the East-North saddle and descended Rocky Creek out of interest. Quite tricky and overgrown in the upper section which made going slow. The creek also had enough flow for some of the sections to be a bit hairy, along with some diversions to avoid little cliff lines. Won't be using it again as a descent route. We got fed up with the rock hopping and traversed across to Logans once it flattened out and headed back to Yellowpinch. Moby ran from there to the portals carpark to grab the car; ITB restrained me to walking. I think next time I'll descend via South-East to turn it into a complete skyline traverse of Barney. |
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
North Peak | |||||||
2 | Rocky Gully - with Tom P | 500m | Average | ||||
Finished down this, slowly... Back to Yellowpinch then ran around to Lower Portals
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
down then back up
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Training day
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Sat 20th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge - with Tyler | 600m | |||||
Summited leaning peak, then linked up North & East peaks, returning down SE Ridge.
Big day. The 6km walk between the car parks at the end of the day was a real mood killer. |
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Mon 15th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
17 Hard | ★ East Face Route - with Sezza13 | 280m | Average | ||||
Read Alex's climbing report from years ago, felt forewarned. But it's the first day of holidays, so we're keen. 0510h depart from car-park, 0940h start climbing. First pitch uneventful. I lead the next pitch. Crawl along a chimney full of prickly weeds that release plumes of choking spores. The old rusty bolt mentioned in the old guide is now a decade older, almost rusted through. Used it for gear, better than nothing. Sarah leads, links pitches, sets up station on a small knob of crumbly rock. I mantle it, a substantial proportion drops into space. Rattled, I lead on to the cave station. Well after noon, we eat in the cave. Sarah belays, I chimney up. Very questionable gear, climbing stale toast. Get to the roof, assess options. Right: blank boulder. Left: mossy dripping waterfall. Left it is. Clean the good holds, right off from the wall. Wipe mud off the remaining bad hold. Find dry grass and scrub a spot to smear. Really don't want to make a move. Can't see any gear in the waterfall. Looks like it will be several wet meters before I get anything. Keep looking for options. Procrastinate. Try and set up slings for feet, no dice. I'm still jammed in the chimney, it's been an hour. Dark now. Maybe bivvy, look again in the morning? S&R? Put on head-torch. Halfheartedly make a few attempts. Clear off moss chunks. What's the drop going to be like? Better send it, otherwise Sarah will. Take off backpack. Ask Sarah to turn up the encouragement. Crimp, pull up. Scrabble for anything, find a small gaston. Smear the wet rock. Soaked from the ice-cold waterfall. Jam myself in the slippery corner, desperately inch up. Find a crack for a cam! Consider frenching it, but it won't help. Inch higher. Find a jug, pull up and out, over empty black space. On a ledge. Disbelief. Somehow on the other side of the impossible. Alive, really alive. Next pitch. Sarah dives into the overgrown jungle crack. She leads up forever, links pitches. Not much of the 80m rope left, still no station. A small scream, I tense. She's fine. Just a slip. Finally found gear for a station. I follow. Halfway up, I also slip. Pendulum a meter or two, into the wall. Something cracks in my chest. Feel for broken bones, perhaps a rib. Tell Sarah I'm fine. Keep on climbing. Top out at 0115h, back to van at 0700h. Like a horror movie: everything is fine at the credits, it wasn't real. Totally worth it to get high.
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Thu 11th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Nathan Kenny | 320m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
atmospheric, got the lead on all the best pitches siic
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2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
day before climbing the governor we walked up to stash gear and find rap spot. took us 2 hours to get to the bivy spot and was told it should take 3-4 so we kept walking lol. we reached the summit and thought we may have walked up logans ridge and so walked down to the tree line on the other side which was actually logans ridge then walked back up and over to the original spot. then walked back down the hill to sleep then up the next day to do the governor.
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | ★ Good | ||||
I wasnt mentally prepared for just how rotten the rock was going to be. it makes the worse honeycombed sandstone choss look good. the rock brakes in big blocks and on little crimps and edges despite how much traffic it seems to get. there was a party below who knocked a few larger sized blocks off which was a bit exciting. luckily we didnt pull any blocks off. not as exposed as i was hoping, was mostly slabby and ledgy. pitch lengths were also shorter than on the crag. when we were linking pitches we werent get much past halfway on a 70m. a rough guess might be closer to 250m. i think what makes this climb good is the prominence to the surrounding land and the sufferfest that is the approach. would recommend to those seeking an all included adventure
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | |||||
Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Overnight with Scosh, awesome light as the sun dropped low. Lyrebird made some beaut noises around camp the following morning, yet to photograph one...
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Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic route if you like scrambling up some stunning granite formations. just keep in mind the top section is fairly exposed at times but easy climbing. just keep a level head and remember exposure ≠ difficulty. you got this.
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Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
South Ridges | |||||||
1 | ★ South Ridge | 850m | Don't Bother | ||||
a long slog which has been worn down by all the touristy types who want to go up barney. i used the track for the descent after going up south east ridge. only really worth climbing if you're planning to overnight at rum jungle, however for that id still just recommend going up south east to the peak and descending to rum jungle.
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Mon 8th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with nathaniel glavurdic | 320m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
23 22 | ★★ The Governor - with Liamtemp | 320m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome day out with Liamtemp and my second time up The Gov. There are some superb climbing sequences amongst all the dodgy rock
Started climbing sometime before 9am and topped out at 3pm; so roughly 6-6.5 hours on the route. We divvied up the leading as follows: P1 Liam, P2+3 Matt (Linked), P4+5 Liam (Linked), P6 Matt, P7 Liam, P8+9+10 Matt (Linked), P11 Liam, P12 Matt, P13+14 Liam (Linked), P15 Matt. Lastly, pitch 13 is stiff at the grade and in my opinion deserving of grade 23. I pulled through draws on 2nd for this pitch to save time but everything else done clean. |
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Tue 26th Jul 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Definitely one of the best alpine style ridge scrambles in Australia. Took a lot of trying with light wind but managed to fly off the top and back to the car, days out in the bush don't get much better than that
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Matthew Robbins | 320m | |||||
Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
North Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ North Ridge - with Timmy | 650m | ★ Good | ||||
A nice down climb and return route from Leaning Peak. Super heavily vegetated and hard to follow at present post fires and rain, and minimal use by anyone. A machete or bolo knife might actually be worth carrying to cut thru the thickets of 4-5m wattle with vines that you'll likely have to try and move thru lower down.
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge - with Timmy | 600m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 7th May 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
West Peak/North-West ridges | |||||||
2 | ★★★ Barney Gorge | 600m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
UQMC trip up the gorge. About 12 of us all up. A very slow start lead to a benightment in the gorge on some not so flat ground. Jarred and I agree that it made for a funner/more interesting hike. The gorge itself is fantastic, albeit very bush-bashy in sections. Some of the nicest swimming holes I've had the pleasure of jumping in up there.
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Sun 6th Mar 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Scosh, Jard, Thompson, Yasmino, Jarule and a mushroom or two for good measure. Lightning storm at the summit of all places. Sketchy sketchy sketchy descent to the safety of the saddle. A wet one
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Cruisy hike up with Moby, Scosh, Jard, Yas and Elijah. Really enjoyed the scrambling on this ascent and found some new lines on the way up. Moby got some funny pics of the crew.
Just as we started the descent from East peak to rum jungle we got hit by a lightning storm. Sideways rain and lightning flashing increasingly close to us made for an exciting and fast descent to rum jungle. Rain eased off once we got there and the sun came out for the descent down South's. |
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Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
With a favorable looking BOM forecast Eric, Jarod and Myself set off for another Barney sunrise. The now staple 2:30am wake up almost a highlight, with Eric backing up his punishment of four up n go's in <10minutes - a sight to behold. We got away under starlight, however this was short lived. Once again Barney's unpredictable weather doing it's thing. Cold, wet and very very windy, the exposed scrambles made for what is probably my most exciting Barney exploit yet. Always a good day out
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Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Carpark to summit ~1hr15. "Logans Road Climb" 59:19. 96 seconds off the fasted time? Lost the trail near the summit, led to some steeper than planned scrambling. About time to head back out there and have another shot at it. How good is Barney!?
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Sun 28th Nov 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Impromptu Barney with Max. Plan was originally to shoot up Logans but the wet weather put a dampener on that. Lots and lots of fog up top, got a little off track trying to make our way down to the saddle.
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Wed 17th Nov 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Logans ridge attack with Tom Jard and Enrico. First crack at running up the beast! 2:30am start. Minor deviation into some steep terrain by eric and myself a stones throw from the summit. Again, super fog atop. Chips and Gatorades at the Milkbar on the way home
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Time trial up Logan's with Eric, Moby and Jarred. Drove out the arvo before, early night then up at ~3 for a 3:30 get away to beat the heat. Intense nausea caused a short break for Jarred and I just as the sun was rising. Came good after that on the scramble and powered to the top. Pulled Moby and Eric back on route right near the summit in some intense fog.
Car to summit: 2:01:18 |
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | ★ Good | ||||
A great time up on Barney, and one of my all-time climbing experiences. An awesome mixture of head-game, climbing mileage, and involved rope skills which are all the things I love about climbing (apart from friends)!
Short: No falls. Camped on ridge. Woke up 2:30am. Started climbing 4:30am, topout 6:30pm. Linked p1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 11/12, 13/14. Weather was incredible. Massive thanks to Dan Cox for coming out and being a support in case of rescue! Long: Hiked up SE Ridge at 16:30 Monday to camp on the ridge bivy and get in 6 hours sleep only for a curious Antechinus to keep me up most the night. Woke up a bit before my 2:30 alarm, starting climbing at 4:30am and made my way to the top of pitch 12 by midday, linking up every 2 pitches, average 1h15 for climbing/rapping/jugging each 2 pitches. Felt really good, but by p11/12, my forearms + biceps started to cramp whilst climbing and jugging. Had a good rest at the ledge below p13 getting fluids back, eating, and taking salt tablets for arm cramps. Dan Cox surprised me by rapping into the ledge below this to give me company and cleaned the crux pitches and talking through key holds. I wanted to climb the Gov this year to rehearse beta but didn't get the chance - I'm not certain I would have sent without Dan's help. Dug deep and sent both crux pitches. Cleaning these was surprisingly tricky requiring many rebelays and a lower-out. Romped up the last pitch to beers on the summit with Dan and a cracker sunset! Then walked out with the help of a caffeine tablet and good chats! Cheat codes/Tricks: Getting solid on switching between double and single jumaring systems. Learning lower-outs and transitioning through rebelays. Sun protection. Lots of hydrations. Energy gels and lollies in pockets. Zinc. Sunnies for eye fatigue in sun. Kong panic draws for sections where a lead solo fall really isn't ideal. |
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Sun 24th Oct 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge - with Eric Brown | 600m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 12th Oct 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | ★ Good | ||||
Got up to pitch 7 rope solo, then backed off due to complications related negotiating with two other parties climbing the face on either side of me. Just was getting a bit too messy up there unfortunately.
Super stoked with systems and my ability - psyched to come back when the conditions allow! Was a pretty cool experience camping up on the ridge alone and climbing on the face. Fingers crossed for a less busy day next time. |
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Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Didn't realise this one could be logged - keeping track of distance.
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p14) | 320m | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p13) | 320m | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p15) | 320m | |||||
14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p15) | 320m | |||||
22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p14) | 320m | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p13) | 320m | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
3 | ★★ SE Middle Ridge | 1000m | |||||
19 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p1) | 320m | Average | ||||
Don’t use the tree
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p3) | 320m | |||||
Hard move over ledge, good holds flows
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16 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p4) | 320m | Average | ||||
14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p9) | 320m | |||||
21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p6) | 320m | |||||
17 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p10) | 320m | |||||
20 | ★★ The Governor p2 | 320m | |||||
Some loose holds, nice flow though.
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21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p7) | 320m | |||||
Nice climbing
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p12) | 320m | |||||
Nice crux
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18 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p5) | 320m | |||||
18 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p8) | 320m | |||||
21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p11) | 320m | |||||
22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | |||||
Sat 9th Oct 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Rowan Hess | 320m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wowza! This was a serious undertaking and a hard earned ascent (for me, anyways). 3 months after diving into the world of multipitches, this was a now or never moment at the end of the season. The toughest challenges of this climb were not the climb itself, but rather the approach / walk out, heat, and mental endurance. We started the hike at 3am, began climbing at 7:30am, and summited around 6pm. We camped at Old Hut (huge shout out to our support crew who hiked all our camping gear up the SE Ridge to buy us an entire day of climbing) and walked out via SE Ridge the following morning. Overall a spectacular adventure with some standout climbing that humbled me (:
Pitch 1: A truly rude introduction, I got stuck at the first bolt for a silly amount of time and encountered enough choss to warn me of the journey ahead. Pitch 2: Similarly rude with a reachy start. Ran into a bail biner! Pitch 3: A fun little climb with easy overhangs. Soft for the grade. Pitch 4: Fun, juggy, and ends at a great shady belay station! Some scary loose blocks that require good foot placement to avoid. Pitch 5: Nice little traverse. Don't forget to turn around and enjoy the view! Pitch 6: Would have been lovely if not for some reachy moves that naturally annoyed my midget self. Not fun with a heavy backpack! Pitch 7: An absolute heart-stopper that had me nervously giggling under the roof, and maniacally cackling as I pulled over it! My absolutely favourite pitch of the whole climb. The hidden bolt is pretty tricky to clip if you have short reach, but well protected once you get it. Pitch 8: Didn't find this particularly hard "off the deck", but maybe that was because I had just come off the adrenaline of the pitch prior. Loved the exposure on this. Pitch 9: I did this in my joggers instead of climbing shoes to give my feet a break. Made it way more exciting than it needed to be, would not recommend. Pitch 10: A nice jug haul. If you want to accidentally drop something out of your backpack on The Governor, I recommend doing it on this pitch so it can be retrieved from the ledge below. Had to climb this twice, I'll let you deduce why... Pitch 11: I found the traverse very difficult with short reach / height, but the rest of it was thought provoking and enjoyable. Pitch 12: Don't be a hero, go right to avoid the choss! Pitch 13: Technical and exposed with some really satisfying moves! The crux was tough as balls and I have no idea how I would have done it on lead. Kudos to my climbing partner. Pitch 14: Originally hoped to lead this but was pretty out of puff and concerned about daylight. Not sure who would describe the start as a "ramp" to the right. Definitely not wheelchair accessible and trickier than it looks! Pitch 15: A true victory lap. Overall - don't let the first few pitches discourage you, I found the middle pitches to be the best climbing with great views. A very well protected climb the whole way up, kudos to the legend who set this climb! I wouldn't have done this any later in the year, the sun / heat is merciless and will burn your toesies on the wall. Look forward to coming back next season with a little more preparation, cooler weather, and comfy shoes. I'm eyeing you, crux pitches! |
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Sun 26th Sep 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
14 | ★★ Leaning Peak North Face Route - with henk morgans | 410m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great day out with Henk. Thanks Ryan for the updated description.. we found the start as described. We soloed the first pitch and then ropes up and did two loooong simul pitches (one each) to top out. Super fun route with great featured rock and good enough pro here and there. Reminded me a little of 'The Martian' on Beerwah in that it was great mostly low angled climbing for ages.. just a Trad version though with a harder approach haha.. we took a smidge over 10 hours car to car. Bloody great day!!
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Was so cool to do it as a solo, and so cool just to tick it off. I've written up a bit about it, there's a link below if you're interested!
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KaaosgCXBkD4ZvB9Sgwg6cACZ0z10sqzQhgyfCXCN28/edit?usp=sharing