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Ascents in Mt Edwards

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Showing all 4 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Mt Edwards
18 Into the Wild - with Lee Prescott
1 Second
2 Trad
3 Trad
4 Second
5 Trad
Trad 140m Very Good
Dylan Glavas
Mega line! What a day hahahha, 4 hours hike from the dam wall bashing through the bush through thickets of lantana and large lush green fields of overgrowth. Base of the cliff at 5pm and soon to be climbing. Start of second pitch was hectic, was sweating a lil when a face crimper blasted off on me, lucky I stayed on. We spotted the 'finger crack' from the walk in. I was greeted by a pure splitter hand/fist crack system for 50m+! I linked both and used every cam, safe to say I was shitting myself getting some average nuts in to protect myself, having to inch higher and higher all I could think about was my massive fall potential to my last bomber piece, even though my pieces were already good. The most insane part is having no information as it was a new line, don't know whats ahead, it's about 8pm, nowhere in sight to belay, just have to trust the process, trust yourself and keep pushing. Thank god I found the cracks on left face at top of third pitch, goddamn that block in the roof to the right of the third is LARGE. Seems securely locked behind the pillar though but would be nice to get rid of it. All in all a mega route, came out completely scratched up from lantana and climbed one of the best corner cracks going. hell yea. back at camp by 12 for a sesh

 
18 Into the Wild - with Dylan Glavas Trad 140m Very Good
Lee Prescott
Insane line! From below the mountain at yarramalong you can see the dark shadow of this king line snaking up the face. Named after the wild approach and bush bashing nature of the day, but once we sort a quicker approach and after a bit of traffic this'll be queenslands newest adventure Trad location! Mega lines waiting to be found.

 
Wed 1st Feb 2023 - Mt Edwards
15 The Gambler - with Callum Hatton, Nick Gresham Trad 160m Good
Lee Prescott
Ahhhhhhh the memories. Great write up by nick, covered most of our bases. I would add:

  • beware of stone fish in creek (apparently)
  • third pitch was actually amazing! A soaring splitter crack with great views and cool windswept jugs at the start.
  • The fifth pitch is incredible, chimney climbing through suss metallic sandstone ish rock, with a bomber purple cam crack running up the whole backside!
  • Lantana sucksssss
  • Note: One does not simply walk back, unless you want to rap off the dam and walk back along the creek.
 
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Mt Edwards
15 The Gambler - with Lee Prescott, Callum Hatton Trad 160m
Nick Gresham
We werent planning on climbing this but when we saw the face from the campsite I knew there was no way we weren't climbing it. After we set up camp, Callum, Lee and myself got the gear together and gathered what we needed. After sussing out some potential lines from the campsite we began our approach. Before long we hit a large creek which we had to cross. We pushed on up through thick Lantana to an initial false peak, here we could get a closer look at the face. After narrowing down 2 potential lines we pushed on. From here the lantana stopped and we walked through thick ground-laden vines and up over a rock slide before we hit the wall.

Lee solidered up the first 30 metre first pitch, callum did not. I've never been so afraid of rockfall in my life, but that's what first ascents and climbing with callum is all about. The second pitch was much easier and of little consequence although the view was spectacular. At the base of the third pitch it was getting dark and we thought we were almost done but friends with binoculars at the camp assured us we were barely half way. The 4th pitch was a bush bash barely worth mentioning but it did get us to base of the final pitch. I can't stress enough how little faith I had in this rock but with a 'trust me boys I got this' from Lee we were able to complete the climb and finish with an hour long bush bash through thick Lantana in the dark back to the hikers trail.

Was quite a noob when this all went down and all credit goes to Lee

 

Showing all 4 ascents.

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