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Routes in Midlands for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 111 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Shropshire Ippikins Rock Main Area
HS UKT:4a Right Root

Make a hard move to climb just right of the stump and end at the tree at the top

Trad 9m
HS UKT:4a Daz

Climb the corner passing tree stumps finishing up the crack in the headwall. Belay stake at the top.

Trad 16m
Shropshire Ippikins Rock Job Buttress
HS UKT:4a Job For The Boys

Start as for Big Job but traverse up and right to the obvious ramp. Follow this and then finish up the final steep wall stepping right at the top

Trad 15m
Shropshire Pontesford Rocks West Buttress
S UKT:4a Wall End Climb The Notch Variation

Alternative Second Pitch to Wall End Climb. The right corner above the oak tree belay.

Trad 9m
Shropshire Pontesford Rocks The Needle
S UKT:4a Hawthorne Crack

Follow the corner/groove to below the overhanging corner-crack. Climb the wide crack which proves to be awkward but can be well protected.

Trad
S UKT:4a Direct Route

Climb up the broad arete and at 5m move right to below a slim groove in a smooth wall. Climb the groove, which can be green with lichen. The wall on the left of the groove can also be climbed at 4c.

Trad
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Cul-De-Sac Quarry
HS UKT:4a Merde!

Start on 'Voila!' and progress beyond a square-cut overhang. Proceed directly upwards along the horizontally-banded wall to reach the finish. Exercise caution during the final section of the climb as you navigate the top-out.

Trad 15m
Markfield Quarry The Betty Peg Upper Betty's Slab
FB_ALT:3+ Problem 5

Ascend using the large layaway and holds.

Boulder
Beacon Hill Number Four Crag
FB_ALT:3+ Wall Boulder 6m
Staffordshire Baldstones Elephant's Ear Buttress
S UKT:4a Ganderhole Crack

The crack starting behind a block.

Trad 4m
S UKT:4a Heathylee
Trad
Staffordshire Hen Cloud Bachelor's Area
HVD UKT:4a Rib Chimney

Gain the chimney by an awkward start. Bridge it gracefully or thrash up the depths.

FA: 1913

Trad 20m
S UKT:4a Great Chimney

Round to the right, the fine chimney offers numerous variations including climbing either corner direct or by the full bridging for its entirety. The usual way is to climb the left corner to the pulpit, then transfer to the right corner for the upper section.

FA: Siegfried Herford & Stanley Jeffcoat, 1913

Trad 18m
Staffordshire Ramshaw Rocks
HS UKT:4a The Cannon

To the right are several semi erect protrusions. The cannon is reached via the crack/grove.

FA: 1973

Trad 13m
S UKT:4a Corner Crack
Trad 8m
S UKT:4a Crab Walk

FA: 1973

Trad 20m
HS UKT:4a Tricouni Crack

Crack School No. 3 in BMC Definitive Guide

FA: 1973

Trad 6m
Staffordshire The Roaches Upper Tier
S UKT:4a Chicken Run

FA: 1949

Trad 12m
HS UKT:4a Capitol Climb

FA: R Handley & Nat Allen, 1954

Trad 14m
HS UKT:4a Reset Portion of Gallery 37

FA: Geoff Sutton, 1958

Trad 12m
S UKT:4a Runnner Route

FA: Nat Allen & D Campbell, 1955

Trad 11m
HS UKT:4a Damascus Crack

FA: G W S Pigott & W H Craster, 1955

Trad 12m
HS UKT:4a Joe Public

FA: Dave Jones, 1978

Trad 18m
S UKT:4a Tealeaf Crack

FA: 1957

Trad 12m
S UKT:4a Black and Tans
1 S 4a 12m
2 3c 18m

A superior variation on Black Velvet. Climb the corner half way up that route, but move out left to a possible belay. Climb the corner above to an exposed nose which is climbed by a series of awkward and poorly protected mantelshelves

FA: A S 'Fred' Pigott, 1922

Trad 30m, 2
HVD UKT:4a Black Velvet

Start at the holly. Swing left on to a ledge, then move left again to climb a corner leading to a roof. Sumount this and continue up an easier finishing crack.

FA: 1957

Trad 27m
S UKT:4a Hollybush Crack

Bridge anxiously up above the holly until a difficult step can be made right to a wide crack. Follow this to the top.

FA: traditional

Trad 26m
HS UKT:4a Technical Slab

FA: A Bowden Black, 1945

Trad 24m
HVD UKT:4a Pedestal Route
1 HVD 4a 12m
2 3c 15m

FA: Morley Wood, 1922

Trad 27m, 2
VS UKT:4a Central Route

The fine slab to the right of the huge pedestal is bold.

FA: 1913

Trad 16m
S UKT:4a Kelly's Shelf

FA: Harry Kelly 1924 - 49

Trad 17m
VD UKT:4a Easy Gully Wall

FA: unknown 1957 - 68

Trad 21m
S UKT:4a Hangman's Crack

FA: G W S Pigott & C Topping, 1949

Trad 11m
HVD UKT:4a Left-Hand Route

FA: Lindlay Henshaw, 1924

Trad 14m
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Dorothy's Dilemma
HVD UKT:4a Yong

The mild jamming crack has good hidden layaway holds. Western Grit's answer to Froggatt's renowned Heather Wall.

Trad 10m
S UKT:4a Cannonball Crack Trad
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Valkyrie Area
S UKT:4a Via Dolorosa Variations

Starts on the higher ledge to the right and finishes up the dark and slippery Raven Rock Gully. Best split into 2 pitches otherwise rope drag may be a problem.

Trad 2
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Elegy Slab
S UKT:4a Fledgling's climb Trad 13m
HS UKT:4a Wing Wing

Between Fledgling's Climb and Little Chimney.

Trad 9m
S UKT:4a Lucas Chimney

The narrow rift in the main angle is a well-protected struggle and the leftward exit is a pig; the best advice is to try staying high. Often green early in the season or after rain, in which case it is worthy of a manky HS 4c.

Trad 10m
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Kestrel Buttress
HS UKT:4a Straight Crack

Bridge the leaning corner (without pushing too hard on the flake) and then step left to reach the rectilinear fissure, thankfully above the wide and potentially awkward lower section.

Trad 10m
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier
{FR} 3+ Problem 4 Unknown
HVD UKT:4a Yong Trad
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder A
{FB} 3+ Gentle Slab Boulder 3m
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder B
{FB} 3+ Slabby Seam Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder D
{FB} 3+ Poxy Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder E
{FB} 3+ Problem 24

arête on R side

Boulder
{FB} 3+ Mantel Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder F
{FB} 3+ Flakes Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder G
{FB} 3+ Ledgy Arête Unknown
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Lower Tier Lower Tier Boulders Boulder A
{FB} 3+ The Chips Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Lower Tier Lower Tier Boulders Boulder D
{FB} 3+ Left Line Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Upper Tier Boulders
{FB} 3+ Problem 7

one boulder, many options

Boulder
{FB} 3+ Don's Arête Boulder
{FB} 3+ Easy Groove Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Great Slab Area
{FB} 3+ Popper Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier The Attic
{FB} 3+ Scrack Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier The Cube
{FB} 3+ Cube Crack Boulder
{FB} 3+ K2 Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Roaches Skyline
{FB} 3+ Chipped Wall Boulder
{FB} 3+ Easy Arête Boulder
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Far Skyline Art Nouveau Boulders
{FB} 3+ Problem 14

crack

Boulder
Staffordshire Newstones Hazel Barn Buttress
S UKT:4a Hazel Barrow Crack

Climb the juggy groove to bulges which are passed by moving leftwards.

Trad
Staffordshire Newstones Scratch / Rhynose Buttress
{FB} 3+ Jam Crack Boulder
S UKT:4a Candy Man

Climb rightwards up the front of the buttress over a series of bulges on the large perched flakes.

Trad 8m
Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Grimley's Rock
FB_ALT:3+ Grimley's Groove
Boulder
Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Hidden Wall
FB_ALT:3+ Orinoco
Boulder
Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Pirate Block
FB_ALT:3+ The Ramp Direct
Boulder
Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Warthog Boulder
FB_ALT:3+ Little Slab
Boulder
Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Hobgoblin
FB_ALT:3+ Hob Pocket
Boulder
Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Rare Slab
FB_ALT:3+ Rare Slab
Boulder
Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Cracked Boulder
FB_ALT:3+ Mossy Slab
Boulder
Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Pinnacle Crag
FB_ALT:3+ Up The Junction
Boulder
Granitethorpe Quarry
S UKT:4a The Weatherman Trad
S UKT:4a Straight Up Trad
High Sharpley Flake Crag
FB_ALT:3+ Thin Finger Boulder
Ratchet Hill Red And Black
FB_ALT:3+ Red Faced Punter Boulder
FB_ALT:3+ Too Much Chutney Boulder
Blackbrook Reservoir
VB FB:4C Bigger Splash Boulder
Oaks Pinnacle Isolated Pinnacle
FB_ALT:3+ Right Face Boulder
Bardon Hill The Fence
FB_ALT:3+ Iron Eyes Cody Boulder
The Outwoods Main Wall
S UKT:4a VC Bob Trad 9m
Mountsorrel Crags Memorial Crag
FB_ALT:3+ Slab and Arête Boulder
FB_ALT:3+ Left Edge Boulder
FB_ALT:3+ Right Arête Boulder
Mountsorrel Crags Castle Crag
FB_ALT:3+ Up Over Boulder
Anchor Church Caves
S UKT:4a Pillar of Wisdom Trad
S UKT:4a Doorway Trad 8m
Carver's Rocks
S UKT:4a SP 1880 Trad 9m
Pleasley Vale Frog Buttress
HVD UKT:4a Scout Crack Trad 12m
HVD UKT:4a Frog Spawn Trad 13m
S UKT:4a Toadpole Trad
HVD UKT:4a Toad Wall Trad
HS UKT:4a Make It Snappy Trad
HVD UKT:4a Crocodile Corner Trad
HVD UKT:4a Crocodile Corner Arete Trad
S UKT:4a Forever Amber Trad
S UKT:4a Amber Block Trad
Pleasley Vale White Wall
HVD UKT:4a Hang About Trad 4m
HS UKT:4a White Wall Trad

Showing 1 - 100 out of 111 routes.

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