Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Shropshire Ippikins Rock Main Area | |||||
E2 UKT:5c | ★ White Heat
A good steep route up the right hand arete of the tower that develops at half height. Pull up on some large holds and climb steeply past a thread runner to the horizontal break, ring bolt above. No E2 tick if you bridge right. Step left and climb the front face to a peg runner and a tricky exit. | 14m | |||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Live Evil
Start up centre of undercut by the cave(by dead good)(6a) or over left hand end at 5c. Peg on the right above. Straight up to second peg. Then straight up the hard headwall with a good bit of exposure. | 15m | |||
Shropshire Ippikins Rock Black Wall | |||||
E3 UKT:5c | Shindig
Technical though rather artifical. The left edge of the wall leads past a small bulge to a bolt runner. Finish directly up the blunt arete | ||||
Shropshire Nesscliffe | |||||
E3 UKT:5c | Bruce Factor | 1 | |||
E3 UKT:5c | Dreams are Reality | ||||
E4 UKT:5c | Inspiration | ||||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Bay Wall | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | Bay Watch
| ||||
{FR} 6b+ | Be my Baby
| ||||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Cream Wall | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | The cat that got the Cream
| ||||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Cul-De-Sac Quarry | |||||
E4 UKT:5c | Andy Pandy
Ascend the unprotected arête located on the right side of the descent path. Prior to the climb, it may be necessary to clear any ivy obstructing the route. | 10m | |||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Nomad Wall | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | Rabble Rouser
| 30m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Another Filling
| ||||
{FR} 6c | Root Treatment
| ||||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Grid Iron Wall | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | Smack the Juggler
| 18m | |||
{FR} 6c | Sack the Strugglers
| ||||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Gaza Strippers
| 35m | |||
{FR} 6c | A Night Torchlight Parade
| 35m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Curfew
| 33m | |||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Black Wall | |||||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Bastard
| 30m | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Black Wall Direct
| 30m | |||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Red Wall | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Crab Stick
Ascend the face situated immediately to the right of the arete while executing a challenging manoeuvre to surpass the initial low bolt. Beyond this point, a stretch of inferior rock swiftly gives way, paving the path for exceptional climbing on exquisite brown rock. | 27m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Clematis
| ||||
Markfield Quarry The Betty Peg Upper Betty's Slab | |||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Problem 3
Commence with your left hand in the pockets and ascend directly to the solid holds, reaching the finishing point. | ||||
Markfield Quarry Overhanging Wall | |||||
FB:5C | The Right Wall
Start right of the central groove, reaching up and leftwards to grasp a square hold positioned at the top. | ||||
Hangingstone Quarry | |||||
{FR} 6c | Wekend Warrior | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | Christ Almighty
FA: | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | Holy Ghost | ||||
Beacon Hill Beacon Face Left | |||||
E1 UKT:5c | Bat out of Heel | 6m | |||
Beacon Hill Beacon Face Right | |||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Moonshot | 6m | |||
Beacon Hill Number Three Crag | |||||
E1 UKT:5c | Relayer | 7m | |||
E1 UKT:5c | The Heart Of The Sunrise | 10m | |||
Beacon Hill Number Four Crag | |||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Silk and Satin | 6m | |||
Forest Rock Main Face | |||||
E3 UKT:5c | Saucy | 11m | |||
The Brand | |||||
E1 UKT:5c | Modular - Indirect Start
| 15m | |||
E4 UKT:5c | Suffragette City
| 18m | |||
E2 UKT:5c | Fish Out of Water
| 18m | |||
E3 UKT:5c | Splash
| 21m | |||
E3 UKT:5c | Fruit Eliminate
| 14m | |||
Staffordshire Baldstones Baldstones Pinnacle | |||||
FB_ALT:5+ | ★ Original Start
The start of the route is very awkward but not as hard as it looks. Traverse off left or jump off, or continue to the top - it's about HVS. | ||||
E4 UKT:5c | Prelude to XB
| 10m | |||
Staffordshire Baldstones Gold Rush Buttress | |||||
E4 UKT:5c | ★ Gold Rush
An impressive line but usually dirty and seldom climbed. Traverse out right to enter the inverted scoop in the overhangs and exit rapidly up a short crack. Unprotected and harrowing. | 10m | |||
Staffordshire Baldstones Rays Roof | |||||
HVS UKT:5c | ★ Last Banana Before Sunset
Left of the big roof, start from the ledge and move up and right to finish just right of the small pinnacle. | ||||
Staffordshire Ramshaw Rocks | |||||
E1 UKT:5c | ★★ Brown's Crack
Crack School No. 7 in BMC Definitive Guidebook. FA: Joe Brown & Don Whillans, 1965 | 14m | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Imposition
How's your offwidth technique? Crack School no. 9 in BMC Definitive Guide FA: 1973 | 8m | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★ Time Out
FA: Gary Gibson & Ian Barker, 1979 | 9m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Upper Tier | |||||
E4 UKT:5c | ★★ Simpkin's Overhang
FA: Phil Burke, 1979 | 14m | |||
E3 UKT:5c | ★ The Tower of Bizarre Delights
FA: Dave Jones, 1978 | 16m | |||
E4 UKT:5c | Live Bait
FA: Gary Gibson, 1981 | 20m | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★ Walleroo
FA: Mike Simpkins, 1960 | 20m | |||
E4 UKT:5c | ★ The Valve
FA: Gary Gibson, 1978 | 16m | |||
E1 UKT:5c | Ging
FA: Graham Cole, Nige Bilby & Kenny Atherton, 1996 | 11m | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★ Quickbrew
FA: Fred Crook & Ian Barker, 1981 | 12m | |||
E4 UKT:5c | ★★ Gypfast
FA: Phil Gibson, 1979 | 18m | |||
E3 UKT:5c | Ped X-ing
FA: Gary Cooper & Fred Crook, 1997 | 11m | |||
HVS UKT:5c | War Wound
FA: Gary Gibson, 1978 | 12m | |||
E1 UKT:5c | Sign of the Times
FA: Dave Jones, 1979 | 6m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Ascent of Man | |||||
E1 UKT:5c | Snap, Crackle and Andy Popp
Disappear into the holly. | 7m | |||
E5 6c | ★ Apache Dawn | 8m | |||
E7 6c | ★★ KP Nuts | ||||
E3 UKT:5c | The Aspirant
Climb the centre of the left-hand side-wall of the gully, passing a useful flake to an exit on the left. | 8m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Teck Crack Area | |||||
E6 6c | ★★ Sunday At Chapel | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Crystal Grazer | |||||
E8 6c | ★★ Doug | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Dorothy's Dilemma | |||||
E3 UKT:5c | ★ Schoolies
Good bold climbing though escapable. Climb the bulges (reachy) then straight up the centre of the face to the final crack of Bengal Buttress. | 20m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier The Swan Wall | |||||
E2 UKT:5c | ★ Eugene's Axe
Climb the rounded arete to reach the steeper rock then take the wall above, left then right, then finally left again. | 20m | |||
E4 UKT:5c | ★★ Up the Swanee
22m. Grippingly precarious, especially for the tall. From runners in the thin crack teeter rightwards along the highest break until the horizontal crack can be reached. Swing along this and climb the excellent jamming crack at its end. | 22m | |||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★★ The Swan | ||||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★★ The Swan
FA: John Gosling & Mike Simpkins, 1969 FFA: Ron Fawcett & Geoff Birtles, 1977 | 26m | |||
E4 UKT:5c | ★ Swan Bank
Links The Mincer with the end of the traverse of The Swan. via some bold and reachy climbing. Finish rapidly up this. | 20m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Elegy Slab | |||||
E2 UKT:5c | Elegy | 12m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Kestrel Buttress | |||||
E3 UKT:5c | ★ Carrion
Climb the centre of the front face direct, starting over the butch overhang, crossing the diagonal cracks and finishing with a flourish at a notch in the final narrow wall. A bit of a non-line but with some fine climbing if you are strict. | 18m | |||
E4 UKT:5c | Amaranth
Climb the blunt arete (as for Death Knell) and step left onto the slab and balance carefully up this, avoiding the shrubs. | 12m | |||
E1 UKT:5c | ★ Choka
Pull through the roof further to the right using the thin crack and continue up its wider extension. | 12m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Chalkstorm Area | |||||
E2 UKT:5c | Stolen Days | 10m | |||
E1 UKT:5c | Microstorm
The squeezed in slab with a side runner. | 14m | |||
E4 UKT:5c | ★★ Chalkstorm
An ultra-bold route with gear at around 4m. Side-runners either side lower the grade to somewhere between HVS and E2 dependent on how high they are. | 14m | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Commander Energy | 18m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Piece of Mind Slab | |||||
E8 6c | ★★★ Obsession Fatale | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Spring Boulders | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Problem 7 (Next to C3PO) | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches Skyline Alpha Buttress | |||||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★ San Melas | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches Skyline Condor Buttress | |||||
E1 UKT:5c | ★ Short comings | 10m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder B | |||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Spring Roll Left | 4m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder D | |||||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Scoops | ||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Bog Monster | ||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Bog Standard | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder F | |||||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Melt | ||||
{FB} 5+ | Problem 29
through L of pod | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder G | |||||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Seconds Out | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Lower Tier Slabotomy | |||||
{FB} 5+ | Boobage | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Lower Tier Piece of Mind Boulders | |||||
{FB} 5+ | The Jams | ||||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Wildy's Arête | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Great Slab Area | |||||
{FB} 5+ | The Lintel | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Crack and Corner Area | |||||
{FB} 5+ | Crack Indirect | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Calcutta Buttress | |||||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Calcutta Rib | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier The Attic | |||||
{FB} 5+ | Problem 71
from lip under roof to slopey crimps | ||||
{FB} 5+ | ★ The Finger | ||||
{FB} 5+ | Risky Runnel | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier The Cube | |||||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Summit Slab | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Roaches Skyline | |||||
{FB} 5+ | Blind Flake | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering The Five Clouds Second Cloud | |||||
{FB} 5+ | Marxist Undertones | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering The Five Clouds Fifth Cloud | |||||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Matchbox Slab |