Routes as trad in Asia

A short but juggy route. Watch out for bees in the monster jugs. Continue over the top for decent. No anchor and little available pro.

The is a classic route to the top of No More Monks Rock. Start by climbing up the left-facing corner, continue up the slab to the top, you are sure to get onlookers and honks from passing traffic on route 6. No anchors and virtually nothing in the way of placement. Eventually this route will be bolted. - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

This route is somewhat covered in vines, but is a good route on this face of Broken Pot Rock. No anchors or bolts. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Start just to the right of the line of bolts for Martha's Vineyard. Continue stragiht up from there following the light coloured rock. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

A short climb with a difficult to reach anchor at the top. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Large offwidth (a very thin person could fit in at the bottom) in a dihedral position, with a flat slightly overhanging wall on the left. The face to the right is vertical until halfway up the climb where there is a foot sized ledge and the left wall breaks back from overhung to slab and the offwidth widens out to a chimney to a very nice sloped ledge one body height from the top. Its a sort of layback/offwidth body jamming/face crimps/chimney. Lot's of ways to approach this one.

Start in the small grass patch next to the owl barn, just south of the big white slab. There are two cave systems, the one on the right is firefly, the one on the left is dragonfly. Offwidth or layback most of the route. Low crux getting over the entrance to the firefly cave.

Start in the hand crack to the right of firefly. Crack curves left halfway up to join firefly for the offwidth finish. No known attempts yet.

Honestly walking around would be a lot easier, but it's a fun little adventure to chimney straight up instead. Access chimney from the top of the white slab. There are big boulders wedged in space at intervals up the chimney which is what makes it comfortable to do without a rope.

Short hand crack. 7 meters at most, but straight splitter. Haven't seen it up close yet, only from the top of Firefly.

Unknown length. Can be belayed from the ground or from the ledge inside the roof (which would shorten the route by 5 ish meters.) Flat green mossy face from the ground to the ledge. Thin crack in the dihedral to the roof. Decent looking hand crack out of the roof. Haven't see above it yet.

Unknown height. Can be belayed from the ground or the ledge under the rood (that would remove 5ish meters). On the right side of the square where the ledge continues out of the square. Either dihedral face climb to the roof then hand? crack out, or climb the arete direcctly to the edge of the roof. Hand crack up from the roof.

Same as Sunset roof right but climb the arrete to avoid the roof.

Beneath the extremely overhung roof that tops the cliff about 50-60m to the south-west of the main prow. Starts with a traverse right along a ledge to a hand crack that leads to a small roof, then another traverse left? or right? to a face climb top out. The headwall is a big question mark. Face climbing, maybe goes. looks liek there could be another crack up high but hard to see from the bottom.

Off the North side of the main prow (left when looking from the top toward the edge) there is a line that might go, sort of follows a banyan tree that has exploited the same weakness in the rock. Could sling the tree at points if pro becomes sparse. There is a big rock on top of the flat outlook portion of the cliff, if you wrap it it could be a suitabe anchor to project this climb. Not sure if the pro goes or if bolts will be involved.

Length can vary depending if you start down in the pit, or from the lip of the pit. Maybe 5m longer. Looks o be a full continuous crack up a dihedral all the way from bottom to top. At least what we can see of it, needs some gardening. Needs big cams (unsure what size).

Not really a climb, but scramble up to access the anchor ledge for the sport climbs. Start in front of the cockpit, top the slab, can sling the horn for protection, and there is one bolt [unconfirmed] on the main cliff when you step over the gap.

(#7 on topo) No information known, location noted on Japanese climbers topo from Angkor Climbers Guidebook

To the right of 1-1. Shares anchor with 1-1.

To the right of 1-2. Shares anchor with 2-2/2-3.

To the right of 2-1. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-3.

To the right of 2-2. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-2.

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-2, 3-3.

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-1, 3-3.

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-1, 3-2.

To the right of the large boulder suspended over head, opposite side from Route 3.

To the right of Route 6. Shares an anchor with 5-2.

To the right of Route 6. Shares an anchor with 5-1.

To the left of route 5.

Shares anchor with 7-1, 7-3.

Shares anchor with 7-1, 7-2.

传统兼运动的训练线路，可以分段传统攀登1357 2468 跳挂片练习攀登

根据网友描述更新，目前没有更详细信息。

与 'Queen Of The Valley' 共用第一段，然后直上走宽烟囱。

1. Gear Anchor

2. Tree Anchor

第一段到顶后走右边，Open FFA

Anchor = 2 Bolts

Gear Advice: C4 #.1, #.3-#.5, double #.3 #.4, #2, #6

运动线路左边第二条缝，已打顶，难度、FA和线路均未知。

c4: #.5 #2—4，可用右边运动攀下降也可top out，注意中间三角巨石需自己判断是否有脱落风险

Gear advice: #.2-#3,#.4
x2; alpine draw x4, 120cm sling x2; Abseiling from tree on top.

'风雨二十年' 右边的一条mix，anchor=2Bolts

FA/FFA信息不详，难度不详。

C4：.3-5 double 3

C4：.3-3 double.5、3

C4：.3-3 double .3-.75

Gear: #.3-#6, double #2,#3,#5,#6; double rope.

说明：原路线Griff在FA时并未分成两段，为了方便打卡，将该路线摘出来作为 'Read Option' 第一段，与 '直入魔屋 Into the Magic Room' 共顶，难度不大，但爬起来非常恐惧，少有的屋檐传统路线，值得体验。

Gear: C4 #.75-#5

与 '蜘蛛侠' 共享起步和结束，走右边。线路非常短，用的塞子很少，FFA完成时，有run out的部分，但耐心放塞子，有可能可以避免

Gear Advice: .2–.4, .75, 2, double .3

Share start with '望而生畏' , via a tiny roof, vertical finger crack, and back slash flack, join to 'Read Option' chimney, share anchor with 'Read Option'. Gear advice: #.2-#5, 2x#.4-#2, 4x#.75, 5x alpine draw, 5x 120cm sling, 2x60m rope.

看上去可怕，实际上并没那么难。

Gear: #.3-#3, double #1,#2

总长约45-50米，30米处有一个分段。

与 '墙头草' 共顶，务必使用70米绳。

与 '淘金记' 起步相同，线路已清理。

线路后半部分在未清理之前是一大片灌木丛及泥土，根本看不出缝，开线者在这里掏了大半天，灰头土脸甚是辛苦，最后掏出了一个大宽缝，整个过程如同淘金，再加上当时大洞开线都取电影名作为线路名，故曰“淘金记”。

Gear Advice：机械赛.3-6 双倍.3

机械赛0.2-6 双倍0.3 0.5 上面屋檐冲坠很有可能会蹲到下面的平台

机械赛.75-5 3倍1号 双倍2号 开线的时候再路线中间树上发现绳套，攀爬记录不详。周鹏将路线延长到现在的顶。也可用12号线路的顶，爬顶绳就不磨绳了。顶上四五米烟囱无法放置保护点 根据http://www.byeah.net/rock/g1049.html记录，首攀为Torsten，在2010年3月，top anchor = tree

从疑似天文学家烟囱上的顶开始，向右上至儿童节快乐第二段开始的顶，再向左平移至岩壁根沿着缝向上至儿童节快乐的顶。下降时可用65米绳从儿童节快乐第二段的顶直接到地面。

10月1日秋高气爽，被大洞运动攀折磨到怀疑人生。突发奇想，想看看大洞顶上的风光，遂跟随机长从从疑似天文学家开始干到了山顶。因结束之前的缝与凉亭贯通，且风化严重一不注意就会掰下来大石头，故命名穿山卸岭。不知该缝是否有人FFA过。

机械赛.2-.4 双倍.3/.4

线路位于 '红米线' 和 '儿童节快乐 Happy Children's Day' 之间。

2010年5月由Torsten&Christina（陈家慧）打顶。后Christina出事，为了纪念Christina，Torsten以及众多岩友一起完成了该线路的开发。

1. 5.11b/c, trad, Torsten

2. 5.10b / A1, trad, 小河

第二段与 '儿童节快乐 Happy Children's Day' 第二段前半部分重合：

★★★ 断线的风筝 Broken Kite 5.11b/c A1 R - 断线的风筝.jpg

详见，盗版岩与酒

Pitch 1, 5.11b/PG-13, 30m; Pitch 2, 5.10c/PG-13, 25m; Shear start with Broken Kite, after finger crack traverse to right side of Happy Children’s Day, follow a curve crack to big ledge with a tree; second pitch join to a Project crack, up to a freaking thin flake to right side small ledge, then via a scary chockstone into an easy chimney, nearly top is a big ledge. Gear advance: #.1-#6; #.5x3; #1x3; alpine draw x 5; 120cm sling x 3; double ropes. Shear abseiling with Happy Children’s Day, it’s 3 option anchors middle on wall, but draw out rope is not easy.

线路位于'儿童节快乐'右边，前8米与'儿童节快乐'重合。8米之后进入平台右上进入完美的宽缝接烟囱系统，FREE难度估计5.10a。裂缝的难度应该在5.9，难点是宽缝转烟囱的地方，需要爬几步。建议携带2个六号，2个五号，一个四号，两个三号。顶上手钻打了一个挂片，如果要建站建议一个1号，一个2号加挂片建站。此处70米绳子可以直降到地。如果不放心单挂片可以继续沿右上的缝绕至儿童节快乐的顶上下降。

不建议AID新手进行练习！若要AID练习，可以使用儿童节快乐的顶顶绳练习。

详见盗版岩与酒关于线路的信息：白河传统新线路：遗忘俱乐部

2017年的project，2021年Griff和正前从 '断线的风筝 Broken Kite' 起步将两条线连接了起来完成，取名 'Including But Not Limited'。因此将该project线路更名为 'Including But Not Limited P2'，方便只爬第二段的climber打卡。

Griff ：该线路不建议爬，松石无法彻底清理。

5.8的trad能有这样的体验，本身就很棒。

线路起步是一颗树，中段建议再用右侧的细缝放点保护。

建议从左侧下降，原路下降容易卡绳，因此线路只适合跟攀，没法顶绳。

'路边一线路' 左边传统，自己做顶。

不是FA，没有路线信息，给个5.8的难度吧。

小洞天的第一条线

下半段宽缝，比较脏，很多树叶、尘土。机械塞：.3-6，double 2。

Mix线路。两条缝串一起爬，下半段很细。机械塞：C4 .3-2, C3 1, ballnuts 2。

mix线路，和鹊桥同起步

名字缘由会不会是某队的队歌呢？

Gear C4:#.3-#4

c4 .3～6, double 3

宽缝。在去往小洞天的沟左手， '蜂巢' 对面。保护需要用到大兄弟，或者8号（只适用下半段）。

宽缝+天花板细缝

线路名称是建议名，若有正式名称再进行修改。暂无FFA，anchor：无

anchor:2 bolts+梅陇锁

线路开放FFA

anchor：2bolts+梅陇锁

也不知道是谁首攀的 至少大坑已经红了 肯定是已首攀的状态了

Anchor = 2bolts

Gear: C4 #.5-#4

Anchor = 2bolts

已打顶。

C4 .3~3, triple .3, double .5, .75