Routes as trad in Malaysia

Trad line on the left, maybe replaced by bolted routes. Very exposed. https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/tioman-island-mukut/the-green-line-nipah/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/tioman-island-mukut/nenek-simukut-freebird/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/tioman-island-mukut/puncak-anak-wind-of-change/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/tioman-island-mukut/bagus-tower-all-along-the-watchtower/

Its just around the first point to the right of the arch as you come out to the beach. It runs off the pebbly beach up a crack going right. Rock is soft and loose but has passable protection for active pro. At the top of the crack traverse right to a big nosey flake to set up top rope anchor for the sea cliff face, which has a sustained ~6a route directly up to the nose.

Bolted by: Aril

1. climb up from the ridge

2. further up and traverse to the right

3. scramble up over scrubs and moss

4. more scrambling over scrubs and moss to the top (Information by Olaf Wünderich, 2nd or 3rd ascent)

1. same as All Elevations Unknown

2. same as All Elevations Unknown

3. same as All Elevations Unknown

4. Climb straight up past 2 bolts (A3) to join Queen and Country

P1-Climbs between the tufas immediately left of 'Granular Spindrift', then heads slightly rightwards to the 'Monkey Line' belay; 5b 25m.

P2-Step left onto the wall, and either pass the stalactite on the left to gain a faint groove that leads back rightwards across the wall, or alternatively climb the rightside of the stalactite (clipping the bolt) and then straight up the wall. Gain a small cave with a pillar (thread) and then a second larger cave with larger pillar; cam and thread belay, 5c 25m.

P3- exit the cave on the right with a high thin thread through the stalactite veil. Use the stalacite to gain the wall above, good cam placements, then step left above the cave and continue straight up to the Good Onion belay. Clipping the first bolt on P3 'Good Onion' reduces rope drag; 6a 25m.

P1 Climbs the first pitch of Redemption Song to belay under the small cave 25m 5c. P2 Leave the belay on the right hand side of the cave and climb the rib using trad gear (cams and nuts) then pass through the trees (slings) to gain the groove that runs up the left side of the Good Onion arete. Follow this to the top (cams, nuts and threads). Don't step right at the top to clip the last bolts of Good Onion. Use the Good Onion belay. 28m 5c P3 From the Good Onion belay climb the pocketed rock straight above the belay to gain the small niche (thread runer here). Holiday in the Bamboo Hotel continues straight up. Traverse left along the break towards the small tree (thread runner) and then step further left to gain the bolts of Redemption Song and the belay. 20m 5c. Abseil down Redemption Song

A real Chimera of a route - start up the old Unknown 7, continue straight up clipping the last bolt of Anchor or place nuts and small cams, then step left onto the steep cracked wall and go straight up using a couple of cams; at the final orangey/brown wall clip the bolt on the right (UnKnown 8) or place some nuts and cams, step onto the wall and fire straight up using either 2 bolts of Bengwali Pewai or placing large cams in the pockets. Lower off Bengwali Pewai

First pitch is sports climbing with 11 bolts, Second pitch is trad

Left hand overhang on sharp limestone. Has a good bolted anchor but is not visible from below. Can be done entirely using threads but rock is sharp so a cam or two would make it safer. Stays semi-dry in light rain. Has multiple fixed rope threads but these are old and dubious.

Lee got hit by a stone when Jeremy went for the anchor. Hence the name Stoning Lee.

First four pitches are bolted (though pitches 1 and 2 are usually done as a single pitch), then it's 5 more trad pitches to the top, trad pitches nothing over 5b but route finding is tricky and the rock can be hella sharp.

Easily identified by the painted sign at the base of the climb. Bolted anchors at the first stance, and bolted anchors at the top.

Right hand side of the wall. Runs up into the chimney (follow the old pitons) then left onto a stance. From there goes straight up to the crack that runs up the right side of the face all the way to the tree at the top. Requires friends and threads and has good protection.