Routes as trad in Singapore

Follows the cracks to the left of boring and meaningless, can traverse right to the anchor

Stay left, up the gully. Very overgrown.

Climb the hand-crack, joins Lucky Draw Dihedral at the top, where it shares an anchor.

First move off the ground is reachy and likely the crux of the climb. Lots of rests on the route to allow you to place protection. Shares an anchor with Jam Bang.

To the right of lucky draw dihedral. Runs up the steps then left onto the face and follows the crack in the middle of the vertical face and the edge of the arête to the anchor. Requires micro-cams or ball-nuts to protect the crux move.

Totally overgrown

Starts right on the slab and traverses up and left to the crack, then up and over the obvious flake to the anchor. Since rockfall to the right opened the canopy the lower half of this climb is now overrun with vines.

From the far left of the step go up a set of twin cracks then bear right onto cleaner rock before going straight up to the anchors. Warning - this route has lots of loose rock and failure to bear right will lead to dangerous rock.

Second pitch is overgrown and has lots of loose rock. No anchor visible.

Turtle is overgrown and now has a bees nest mid route, and those stings hurt. Give it a miss.

This route goes up the crack on the right of the slab, then up and around the back of the crag. According the guidebook it tops out - so be aware there is no anchor. At last check the section after the slab is completely overgrown so may be safer to avoid.

Runs up short and sweet then traverses left to join baby star. BD C3 zero is required to protect the crux. Dangerous choss in the gully and single micro cam protects the crux, not for the faint of heart.

Captured in the Climb Singapore guidebook as a different and distinct route from 'First Blood' graded 5.8 / 5a. The guidebook description suggests this climb starts below the nose and joins 'Mega Hangdogging'. However, the precise details of how this original variation differs from it's non-original cousin appear to be lost to the annals of history.

1st pitch (6a/5.10b) up the left of the giant flake to the break, which marks the edge of the overhang. Traverse left and up the obvious crack, to run out an easy slab to the anchor. Has a bolt on the traverse and couple of bolts up the crack, if you don't trust placing your own protection.

2nd pitch (5a/5.8) runs up the arête and angles right up a series of cracks on a slab face to the anchor. Couple of football size loose rocks en-route so get the all-clear from below before moving up.

Starts the same as 'First Blood'. At the break instead of traversing left, step slightly left and climb the face for a direct finish.

1st pitch (4c/5.7) is an easy scramble up very chossy rock to the right of the giant flake.

2nd pitch (5a/5.8) is same as second pitch of "First Blood"

Updated the grade of the whole route to reflect the grade of the hardest pitch of this multi-pitch climb, as is common practice, on 10 Jan 2020.

From the top of the first pitch of First Blood belay from the left anchor. Traverses up and left before gaining a crack system allowing you to come back right. At the first bolt swing right onto the arete and up to the anchor following the bolts.

Has a chain anchor at the top.

This route has a lot of loose rock! Lead climber must be careful not to pull loose rocks down onto the belayer.

When placing gear in the crack be aware that in places the rock had softened due to water ingress.

This climb is the far right of the nose (the Facist section?).

Route starts 5m to the right of Tong Lou (East Tower) and utilises the same anchor. The route starts on a very moss covered slab, perpendicular to the main wall. This slab makes up the crux of the project route. (Alternatively, if this proves too hard, you can shimmy up the tree). From the top of the slab the route heads left, up 'blocky' steps which follow the dihedral. On topping out the dihedral continue up more slab with plentiful holds to the East Tower anchor.

This route is still a project.

Natural protection placements on this route are sparse, making this an extremely bold route if led as a trad route. Hairline cracks and fissures are sometimes the only option for Natural Pro. Ballnuts, micro-nuts, or very small cams may be handy for those brazen enough for a trad lead.

Due to the absence of good nat pro options, this route may lend itself nicely to being bolted for a sport route.

Update 2018 - the rock forming the crack system for the Climb has collapsed, the route no longer exists.

This climb is the far right of the nose (the Facist section?).

Route starts 5m to the right of Tong Lou (East Tower) and utilises the same anchor. The route starts on a very moss covered slab, perpendicular to the main wall. The slab is hard, and can be circumvented by climbing the tree, the 6a grade includes use of the tree.

From the top of the slab the route heads RIGHT up the CRACK!

Climb can be found around 50m to the right of dragon shit through the trees. Route is full of loose rock and dead wood. Starts running up tree roots using 2-3 girth-hitched slings as protection to the tree. It then traverses left across a ledge by a smaller tree where a trad anchor can be built. Area is uncleaned and unbolted so take care. Above this is project.