Routes in Arapiles for selected grade

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice.

I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall.

5m right of 'Welease Wodger' is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left.

The jam crack 10m right of 'People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse'.

Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo).

Start: Start ~50m R of BT.

Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'.

Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a

shallow prow.

Start: Opposite VIMH.

If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself.

Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell.

Up following faint line to top.

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given.

Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required).

The slick chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the Clytemnaestra Buttress.

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

The corner.

Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall.

The arete. Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of Organ Pipes Gully.

Another gully.

A pointless variation on Bass Clef. Up Bass Clef to the chimney, step left and up the juggy arete just left of the chimney until able to bridge into the prominent line on the right wall of the chimney. Up this line then step right to the Tremulo bolts.

Worthless. Starts 2m left of Great View. Up corner stepping right into Great View at top to avoid loose blocks.

Start: Takes the east facing prow of 'Operation Leo' buttress.

There's probably a smutty double entendre here.

Start on the end of the wall right of Doddle.

The little corner then step right at top onto wee slab.

Start: The left most line.

The easy line just left of Wayne Gretsky.

The arete left of Duck Off.

Up C for 5m then R into the clean corner, with a bulge and then nice laybacking.

Start: Start as for C.

Doddle up.

Start: Start 1m L of MSaS.

The central crack.

Start: Start in the middle of Pritikin Wall.

The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks.

Line up left end of wall.

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

Is an anagram of Tim Taylor.

Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake.

Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish.

This climb is on the north east face of the buttress. Climb the middle of the face.

The crack up the front.

Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face.

Up the thin crack, with a small overhang halfway.

Start: Start 6m R of Hope.

Up the L-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of a chimney which is on the R side of a mossy wall to the R of F.

The groove then directly over the bulge.

Start: Start at the next line R of P.

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge.

Supposed to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

Up short right-facing corner and deep line right of Greenfingers. Near the top, veer left across the wall to the rap station. Originally graded 10 by Noddy.

Start at the top left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the Reaper Buttress page).

1. 30m 12. Up the wide crack then through sculpted territory, eventually stepping left to rap anchor on ledge.

2. 20m 11. Finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the 2008 Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touches ground though.

Good fun with fairly good protection. Start 12m R of Subliminal Cut, just right of the large block leaning against the cliff, or under the block itself. Up the wall past the right side of the block. Smooth slab, crux, from ledge on top of the block (there is a wire but short people will have to get up to it) then easier ground up line of least resistance to the headwall. Step left and climb diagonally left to the rap anchors.

This is an easier version of The Catacombs. A pretty shady climb.

1. 30m As for The Catacombs – finishing via the chains (?M1) if you don’t want to do the grade 14 roof.

2. 30m Up the steep juggy crack as for The Catacombs second pitch for about 12m, then trend right up the grey wall just left of the corner. Belay in the chasm behind the top of Dreadnought Butttress.

3. 15m Climb the upper side wall of the chasm, left of a gnarly chimney.

4. 40m Follow the prominent steep crackline up the headwall, left of the final pitch of The Catacombs.

This is the original version. Dunes Direct (described separately) is now the usual way to go.

Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right or scramble easily up from below).

1. 36m (-) Up the corner then trend R up slab to the base of a short chimney facing R into the gully.

2. 6m (-) Up the chimney.

3. 40m (9) Traverse L, step down, and go a bit further L. One tricky move up then continue straight up easy wall to the Oasis (the big ledge between 2 huge boulders).

4. 27m (-) Traverse L to ledge, then up the short steep crack with good jugs, and up the clean corner above.

5. 10m (-) Short corner then easy finish.

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre. The southeast face of the Morfydd pinnacle faces the back of Fang Buttress. Start under this face.

This is just one of innumerable soil-to-summit enchainments of Arapiles which have been enjoyed by countless parties since time immemorial, and which are best left as a choose-your-own-adventure. See the FA notes if you really want to know how this one goes.

Start at Ali's.

1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on Orpheus (which is described in the Bard Buttress area).

2. 18m (12) Bomb-bay chimney as for pitch 5 of Orpheus then traverse R (probably better to go left instead and continue up Orpheus).

3. 20m (9) Nasty wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

Follow Sisyphus for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass Orpheus and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

A pleasant ramble, although likely very close to or a repeat of the upper portion of Bong Tree (on Seneca Wall).

From the base of Missing Link, the first pitch starts approximately 20 metres down towards the top of Tiger Wall, not far R of DED. There is a small crack at ground level to protect the belayer from plummeting off Tiger Wall.

1. Ramble up the slab until it steepens. The line of most resistance is 14ish. Build an anchor up on top (30m, 12)

2. Continue rambling, doing a few climbing moves over the orangey lip bit. Place some gear if you desire. Build an anchor where it's no longer justifiable to call it rock climbing. (20m, 6)

Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).

1. 46m (10) As for p1 of The Bard.

2. 25m (12) Step R from the belay across 'Eagle Cleft'. Above the big roofs on the bottom left side of 'Tiger Wall' there are two major diagonals going up the left side of the wall. You meet them here in 'Eagle Cleft', where they are about 4m apart. Take the lower diagonal to a belay ledge.

3. 30m (12) Continue up R along diagonal for 8m, then go L over a small nose. Go up the wall then R into the start of a chimney and climb it to a belay.

4. 25m (-) Chimney upwards to Flinders Lane.

It's scary to think they called the route this way back then!

Start: 5m R of 'Fox Tales'.

The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'.

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down. Easiest approach is behind the Death Row Pinnacle and walk left along a terrace to its left end.

Scramble up and slightly left and climb orange corner. Above the corner there's a little bulge with a stack of loose blocks offering a foothold. Instead move left onto the steep, juggy wall and up past the bulge then step back right into the obvious crack.

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

Climb corner and veer L through the small roof above.

Start: Start on L side of 'Ministry Wall' at L facing steepening corner with lichen at base.

After the left-leaning corner, continue over the bulge and straight up. Good rock, good gear. This route assumes the original veered left below the bulge as per the description.

A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start at the chimney 7 metres right of Five Fingered Mary.

1. 25m (12) Follow the chimney until the line divides at 25 metres. Step right to a ledge.

2. 20m (11) Step back left then up the steep right-hand crack. Exit right onto ledge below steep bushy chimney.

3. 20m (11) Traverse 6 metres left and around nose of rock. Up onto wall, then continue up until able to traverse right to base of short slot.

4. 10m (11) The slot is desperately slick. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy wall on the right. The pitch finishes at the big ledge of the Tennis Court.

5. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

Instead of scrambling up to the top of Pharos, climb straight up from the DBB of FC. Plenty of gear and good belay on top around a boulder

Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high.

Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves.

Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky"

These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs.

Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top.

Layback flake to right end of roof. At roof, traverse left and up.

Start: Start at the layback flake 30 metres left of diagonal.

Essentially a variant finish to "Long Hair And Greatcoats". It originally started by moving around the right side of the huge chockstone but that is worthless.

Start as for "Long Hair And Greatcoats".

Follow Long Hair And Greatcoats to manky old peg at top of shallow black corner. Make a committing move left and then up interesting thin crack to top.

Quite pleasant really.

Start up Future Past and climb directly up, keeping about 2 metres right of the blunt arete, to the top.

A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.

Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top.

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

The obvious chimney which appears to lead directly into The Protege when viewed from near Uncle Charlie. Approach past the left end of the Furphy Wall,

Climb the chimney to the roof. Step right and bridge up the continuation.

From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.

Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.

Starts at Siren’s first belay.

1. 40m (12). Starts directly behind the dead Cypress Pine. Climb the middle of the face. (crux). At first ledge, set up belay.

2. 40m (12) Directly up, to right hand end of the Eagles Eyrie. Taking the small left facing corner and then up juggy wall to top.

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

1. 25m (4) As for Siren

2. 35m (8) As for Siren

3. 35m (8) As for Siren

4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line!

Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.

1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past an old carrot bolt and climb the corner to small ledge.

2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney

3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above

4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.

The right arete of Arachnus. Quite fun and there are numerous possible variations.

Start directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.

1. 40m (12) Up 2 metres to horizontal weakness, traverse delicately left along this for 6 metres, then go up to major overlap. Traverse left to break through left end of overlap to large ledge. Walk right to obvious, left-facing corner. Small gear essential to protect this pitch.

2. 25m (12) Jam corner to roof and step right around arete. Climb wall past some old pitons to an inset ledge below final tower.

3. 30m (12) Traverse right to shallow corner. Up corner then steeply up front of turret. Scramble down back.

This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.

Mangy.

Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.

1. 12m (12) Struggle up chimney.

2. 36m (-) Traverse right onto easy-angled shoulder and on to nice layback crack on right. After this, move past large ledge and up corner to another wide ledge. An alternative is to move left at the start of the pitch and go up unleasant narrow chimney (grade 12).

3. 30m (7) As for final pitch of 'Beau Geste'

Wanders up the left side of the buttresses. A bit scrappy but worth a look.

Start some distance uphill of 'Beau Geste', just left of a deep horizontal break.

1. 24m (10) An undercut start leads into a wide crack. At top, step right and up to ledge.

2. 10m (-) The crack above.

3. 18m (10) Pull up steep wall and continue upo crack and jug-strewn wall.

4. 20m (10) 'Layback' crack on steep wall up left to terrace.

5. 30m (12) Pull up on flat holds just right of undercut arete and then up to top. This is just left of Beau Geste's final pitch.

Not a bad pitch. Could be used as a start for 'Artificial Insemination'.

Crack about 10 metres left of Beau Geste, avoiding top overhang to right (dirty)

Similar to Bung.

Start as for Bung but after stepping right continue straight up the wall rather than following line.

This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.

1. 36m (11) As for Salami P1.

2. 11m (5) traverse, through crack to the right to belay.

3. 10m (1-2) scramble up to small boulder next belay.

4. 15m (6) up small face to the right, follow up and around left to overhang and ledge.

5. 25m (12) from end (rightmost) overhang, crux first move out over the overhang for an awesome finish.

Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left.

Prominent broken diagonal right of 'Salami'.

Start at short red corner some metres right of 'Salami'.

1. 30m (12) Follow red corner then taverse right across mossy slabs to base of diagonal. Belay a few metres higher.

2. 23m (12) Take the diagonal, ignoring branch on right wall to big ledge.

3. 15m (12) Follow either of 2 short corners to next ledge.

4. 23m (12) The diagonal continues to tricky exit above 'Salami' Corner.

First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.

Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.

1. 26m (12) Diagonally up wall to short left-facing corner. Up this, over the small overhang and up the line to the terrace.

2. 18m (11) Pull up onto the undercut wall 3 metres right of the cave (Spanish Eyes starts at the cave) and traverse left to the prominent crack. Up this to finish right of the overhang.

The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.

1. 15m (12) 'Layback' easily up left to orange overhang at 5 metres, traverse 3 metres right and move up.

2. 15m (12) V-chimney

3. 12m (12) Bulging crack then continue on rib on right wall of corner-gully until crack peters out. Belay in gully.

4. 18m (12) Traverse across right wall and climb arete and back left onto wall and up.

Looks awful.

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Even when after climbing here with the first ascentionist, we're not sure where these routes are!

Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts. Unless this is also squished in with Constance Little, it appears to be the line on the next short wall heading directly to the belay for Kachoong. Felt a little more like 15 though.

The blocky staircase-like feature that leads right and up. Shares finish with Kueh Lapis. Walk off descent.

No joke. (2 pitches for a 15m route is a bit of a joke though?!)

Start: Start on the left side of this wall.

Start: Start as for 'Mermaid Avenue' then up right arete.

The best of the lot. Originally graded 10.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Mermaid Avenue' just left of arete.

Not very long and pretty unpalatable.

Start: Start in the chimney that 'Stone Age' starts in.

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack.

Up crack just right of 'The Closet' for 10 metres then up front of buttress. Finish up good short crack.

Good rock.

Diagonal line slanting slightly left.

This is the next line up the ramp from the first belay of The Baptism.