Routes in Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) for selected grade

Front of small buttress 5m R of Mongoose, straight up, finishing through small roof.

Up to flake 1 right of Grabbin' Runners then up and right.

A chossy, vegetated and overhanging diagonal.

Start: 2m right of 'Loaded'. Marked.

A total sandbag with a finish that is rather exciting.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Kalashnikov'.

Easy sport arete. The first half was originally climbed on trad (and called No Fixed Gear) and was later accidentally retrobolted and renamed 'Amnesia'.

Start: You can't miss this overbolted slabby arete just right of 'Freedom Fighter'.

A good slabby line but a little mossy in places. Protecton can be fiddly to find and place in certain sections.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Paperclip' on ledge accessed by scrambling up under chockstone.

Variant middle to 'Orange Blossom Special'.

Start: From the block at the base of 'Orange Blossom Special', traverse about 2m out left then straight up via yellow streak to join Orange Blossum Special at the left end of the roof. A #5 hex protects the high crux.

Struggles to stay away from the jugs on the left. Another pleasant slab but has silly bolting with huge runouts.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'The Wide Crack Adventure', but on top of ledge accessed via chockstones under block. You can also start as for 'The Wide Crack Adventure' and head rightwards at 5m.

A good line which unfortunately doesn't live up to expectations due to soft rock.

Start: Takes the obvious broken crack that splits the north face of the 'Guernica Block' about 5m right of 'That Fearful Vortex'. Triples of hand and fist crack sized cams are useful. Rap off manky sling below mega choss.

A left hand variant to 'Jurassic Park'. Follow that climbs dog-leg crack until it forks. Follow the left hand crack system which curves left then right, then finish up the headwall via a black streak directly up the start of the climb. A big wire in a hole between two hand holds protects the final headwall.

Excellent fun climbing despite its daunting appearance.

Start: Up the dog leg crack left of 'A Long Way From Verona'. Continue straight up over a bulge then traverse up right 4m until a vertical weakness-come-crack leads to the top.

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for 'Gunboat Diplomacy'.

Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists.

Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods?

Start: Start from the boulder.

1. 25m (17) Up the slabby wall to head left through the break in the bulge (poor rock) to belay on a ledge.

2. 15m (17) Up left to, and then up, the final short headwall.

A mountaineering romp up a major feature.

Start: Squeezed in between 'Sunset Boulevard' and 'Pig Sticker'.

1. 15m (17 M0) Up slab just right of 'Pig Sticker' for 8m to base of wide left facing flake corner. Ignore this and step 2m right to steep left facing hand crack in corner. Up this for 7m to ledge and belay.

2. 40m (10 M0) Just like Peroxide Blonde but at one-tenth of the grade. Step around right up jugs to huge slabby arête. Up this arête staying as close to the left edge as possible for maximum exposure. The finish steepens slightly for full value. Walk off down via 'Echoes' Block.

Featured slabby climbing with a real granite feel.

Start: Starts 6m left of 'Pig Sticker' from the big ledge 6m up which is accessed by climbing up the tree leaning against the rock. Up the short corner-seam. Continue slightly R for a few metres then straight up slab to top. Protects surprisingly well with wires and small cams.

Great central line up wall. The original grade of 14 was definitely suspect - despite Nod having led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.

1. 12m (14) Right-facing corner at left end of 'Wire Guided' slab. First move off the deck is hardest. At top of corner a short chimney leads to a ledge.

2. 38m (18) Stand on rocking boulder and jump for a jug just left of the water channel bisecting White Wall. Pull onto wall and follow the channel all the way - sometimes on the left, sometimes on the right and sometimes in the middle. Some shorter climbers have had to resort to aid to start this pitch.

Shitty. Around 10m right from Chad are three blocky corners. Up the middle line, moving left to pull up the overhanging wall. Up via the ledges above.

Start: Starts perhaps 20m left of the tourist track, from the gigantic boulder lying against the cliff.

1. 20m (18) Up, tending left taking the line of least resistance to the big ledge.

2. 35m (18) Up cracks, then left and up the obvious wide line (via the juggy right facing grooves). The easy wall above to a big ledge.

3. 20m (18) Right for 6m then doddle up.

The balancy face on the far left of 'Moral Vandal' Block with a BR (no piking around the arete). Finish up the seam on the right.

Old school off-width.

Start: Starts 8m left of 'Civilian Casualties' at entrance of tourist tunnel.

One of the best jam cracks in the Stapylton area. A good old-fashioned line and the first climbed on the 'Hollow Mountain' side of Stapylton. It was written up by two other groups (including Noddy) before the real first ascent was discovered.

Start: Starts 15m left of 'Golden Showers' at landmark right facing corner crack.

Fairly good climbing but a bit contrived.

Start: Leave 'Echoes' a few metres past the cave and head straight up the wall to the right hand white streak to the summit.

The 'obvious' line that cuts diagonally across the wall right of 'Filtons Folly' via a 'blowhole'.

Start: Start 4m right of 'Filtons Folly' at small corner crack.

Fantastic features up steep wall.

Start: Start as for 'Echoes' at right side of sandy cave.

Anyone for repeating a Lindorff solo?

Start: 10m left of 'The Undertow' is a large block/boulder (the boulder up right from Golden Showers). 'Frelimo' takes the centre of the face which looks towards the picnic site.

This is probably the easiest route up the 'Red Wall' and it takes an obvious feature.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Fretilin' at the slender detached flake which had scared off numerous climbers for at least a decade. It took a couple of S.A. climbers to bag this much considered feature.

Confusing location! This is the original access description. Climb was not located by editor.

Start: Take the walking track to the top of the 'Sandinista' cliff. Walk about 100m left to another terrace directly above where the track starts to climb through the 'Sandinista' cliff. Start just left of of a left leading diagonal, which has an 'antler' at the top

Ring bolted sport route climbing the face just right of arete. This is the best way to get to the Upper 'Cut Lunch Walls' ledge. Tricky start up left facing flake, then easier grey wall to top.

The easy way to the Upper Cut Lunch Wall's fabulous sport routes. In reality its a four move boulder problem off the deck then grade 5 climbing from then on. Starts on small rock about 10m left of the Salad Abuse arête.

A good route for a belay slave. Soloed on first ascent due to impatience for a belay! Hard to locate for first timers. Thin face with three rings on east facing side of chasm 10m down and to the right of The Big Payback. Bridging against the back wall up high is to be avoided. Best way to approach is to climb the first half of Access Route. Lower off last RB or belay on ledge above on trad.

Start: Start about 50m right of 'The Snatch' below a buttress with an 'obvious' undercling flake.

1. 40m (18) Up to flake then up right onto top of buttress, then easy slab.

2. 20m (18) Shift belay to base of the corner up right, then climb corner.

A bit of faffing about to get climbing. Located on the far left end of the crag. To start the climb you need to rig a belay from ring bolts. Head down left side of void (facing VD Land) climb down trick void, bridge accross, clip bolt, unclip first bolt once the second is clipped, pull onto face and up left and up the orange wall.

Third route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers.

A bouldery start, eases to good holds.

Fun little jug fest up the left side of the wall on a subtle arete. Starts 1.5m left of 'In Halen' at left edge of main wall.

The 18 Varient -Was once dodgy piece of trad climbing - now retrobolted. Starts at the entrance to 'Tribute Wall', 10m before Jet. Boulder problem start then climbing eases quickly. There is an easier start to the right which makes the route a consistent 18.

Worthless sand climbing. Offwidth seam and crack on wall directly behind 'Raunchy Rooster' and near the tree scramble down descent from 'Tribute Wall'.

The prominent arete left of the 'Bad Moon Rising' corner with some amazing in-cut jugs. Climb the Bad Moon Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the overhung face moving left around the arête, and follow the righthand crack to the top.

Slabby wall climb that is mostly trad. The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt plate.

Face climbing with a mix of bolts and trad gear plus copious amounts of loose rock. Starts in the chimney at the far right side of 'Bad Moon Rising' wall about 10m right of 'Raunchy Rooster'.

"Please can I have another hit?". A classic sandbag for the belay slave. The scene of many failures.

Start: Chalked up mini route that finishes on ledge 5m left of 'Body Count'.