Routes in The Chief for selected grade

Layback the corner and then undercling horizontally right under the arching roof.

Up the thin seam, through the chimney then follow the diagonal crack. Possible to do as one pitch, but the rope drag is real.

P1: Start up a lightly vegetated dirt ramp till a corner breaks off left, follow this thin finger corner up to a set of bolted anchors.

P2 From these anchors follow the obvious left sloping crack up to the start of the quartz dyke. follow the dike with good gear to a small ledge and a second bolted station.

P3 Continue following the dyke for s few meters until it's possible to traverse right onto the slab past a bolt. Continue trending up and right until you can step down off an arete to a nice ledge and crack corner system. Either belay here with a gear anchor or continue up to the small roof above you passing it on the right side to another set of bolted anchors.

Mostly a sport climb, but it is good to have a few cams.

2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams

This one may well get the 5.9+. Start up through overhang and up diagonal left flake crack. Burly but not where you might expect it!

Assuming this is "Land and Freedom" in McLane (2005)

A sport climb, but a #2 cam is used to protect the bottom flake.

The traverse to all the routes.

Start seated on the east side of the same boulder at Squish a Gauche. Climb some crimps to a nice large jug and then a short mantle to finish.

Start near the bottom right dyke jugs and traverse left. To the left of Made in The Shade and right of Shade Mantel

Starts to the right of Diedre, from same ledge to Horizontal crag and then follow the three bolts. All anchors are bolted except the third and 6th pitch which end big ledges with plenty of trees to choose from. You might want a couple of middle sized cams but 98% bolted, bolts are close enough to avoid big falls and just before all crux moves. Technically 6 pitches but last one its short and scrambly can be linked with a 60m to the ledge so most parties would do in 5.

P1: start just right of Diedre and pad up the slab past horizontal cracks, then trend right through rolls to belay at a higher seam. P2: Move up and through a mantle, trend leftwards for easier 5.8 then back right to a large tree island. or trend straight up (10b, FA unknown) P3:move the Belay down rightwards down the treed ramp to a large pine, then continue up the crack above to another tree island. P4: From the treed ledge continue up past 2 bolts to a gear + one bolt anchor. P5: Move left crossing Two Scoops to a corner, follow this for 3m then step left past a bolt, and pad up the slab to the base of a long corner system. P6: continue up the corner system to a belay at

Direct start for Calculus Crack so you don't have to start in the trees on the first two pitches of St. vitus Dance.

P1: Start up passing a bolt and head toward an obvious left facing crack. Pull into the crack (crux) and continue up insecure moves to you can step right and up a flake. Gear Belay above the flake.

P2: Long pitch starting up multiple flakes and continuing on easy ground to some flaring crack moves near the top. Bolted belay.

In order to arrive at Baseline ledge (and access St. Vitus, South Arete, etc.), one has to climb two marginal pitches in the trees.

This pitch (the first pitch of St. Bernard), offers a better variation to the second pitch in the trees. It is the obvious hand crack that starts above a stump.

Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.

1. Pull a short crack move to trees and roots pulling until a second, somewhat longer, crack.

2. Climb up a broken crack system to baseline ledge. Consider climbing the obvious hand to off-width crack listed as 'St. Bernard P1' instead.

3. The long obvious hand-crack. Belay just above a bulge. Keep a #3 for the anchor.

4. Step up and right, following discontinued cracks to a chimney-like feature with a crack inside. Belay off of a combination of cams, bush and slung flake.

5. Climb up the shallow cracks to a steep hand crack. Belay off of a tree or (70m) link to the top.

6. Wander up the slab and move left to a low angle crack with a high first step. Belay off of a tree.

Descent:

Recommended

Rappel off of calculus crack's anchor into the gully (4x 30m) ;

Or

Exposed

Scramble up a short right-leaning crack to a ledge below 'Karen's Math' and wander up the gully to the right. Keep going right to broadway ledge and descend along the south trail.

Lowest baseline ledge: the crack between St. Bernard and Calculus Crack/South Arete/St. Vitus. To reach this route, climb the first pitch of St. Vitus/Calculus Crack to Lower Baseline Ledge. Ha7lh Skwalwen will bring you to upper baseline ledge.

Approach: Climb the standard approach pitch of "St. Vitus' Dance" to lower Baseline Ledge.

1. step off the cut stump and climb the hand crack to its top then transition left to gain Baseline Ledge

2. climb the cracks left "St. Vitus' Dance" to gain a bolted anchor

3. climb up through short cracks and pods to gain a foot ledge, transition right to gain pitch-three of "St. Vitus' Dance"

4. Finish "St. Vitus' Dance".

Gear: Rack to 4 inches. Double hand sizes.

Source Squamish Facebook page

Starts at the Memorial Ledge. climb up the obvious crack. 40m Belay off of hidden bolts on the boulder at the top.

Direct start to the squamish buttress. Starts off of the trail, just before the original start. Bolted climbing leads to a gear protected flake. Can easily link into the second pitch of the buttress in one long pitch.

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

Climb the first seven pitches of Ultimate Everything. Then walk 40m along a tree ledge to finish on the last two pitches of Upper Echelon.

Start matched on a big hold at the bottom of the lip. Make a big move to the left and roll onto the slab to reach a good long rail. V1 variation, keep climbing the lip and finish like Vertical Reality

climb the slab with no hands.

Starts from end of P1 of Universal Key. Walk left along narrowing ramp, eventually stepping down onto easy slab and continuing across to anchors on foot ledges. Two pitches than can be linked (55m)reach the base of the last pitch of Upper Black Dyke.