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Cratcliffe Tor Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jim Croft thara Campbell Gome Michelle C Donald Gibson Matt Rees Ben Jenga Ed MANU Rob Baker

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Cratcliffe Tor 113 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.158316, -1.660395

access issues

For up-to-date access information please visit the BMS RAD database. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/

inherited from Peak District Limestone

ethic

Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.

inherited from Peak District Limestone

1.1. Tom Thumb 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Great little crag with some hard classics

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Nemesis Exit

FA: Vin Ridgeway & Peter Harding, 1951

HVS 5b Trad 10m
2 Hermitage Crack

FA: J. W. Puttrell, 1901

VS 4c Trad 8m
3 Reticent Mass Murderer

FA: John Allen, 1976

E5 6b Trad 8m
4 Genocide

FA: Jerry Moffatt, 1983

E6 6c Trad 8m
5 Tom Thumb

FA: Tom Proctor, 1971

E2 5c Trad 18m
6 The Giant's Staircase

FA: Fred Pigott, 1922

HVS 5a Trad 18m
7 Bean Stalk

FA: Mike Hardwick, 1976

E2 5c Trad 18m
8 Oblique Chimney D Trad 10m
9 Elliot's Unconquerable

FA: Frank & Frank Elliot, 1933

HVS 5a Trad 8m
10 Elliot's Right-hand

FA: Chris Hunter, 1978

E1 5c Trad 8m

1.2. Owl Gully 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Weston's Chimney

FA: Owen Glynne Jones, 1897

VD Trad 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Escape/Boot Hill

FA: Geoff Sutton, 1951

E3 5c Trad 18m
3 The Groove

FA: James Pearson, 2008

E9 7b Trad 18m
4 Nutcracker

FA: Vin Ridgeway, 1951

E2 5c Trad 20m
5 Fern Hill Indirect

FA: Ron Fawcett, 1976

E3 5c Trad 20m
6 Fern Hill

FFA: Tom Proctor early 1970s

FA: Keith MyHill, 1971

E2 5c Trad 18m
7 Owl Gully

Straight up the deep but often slimy gully. Struggle past the large chockstone before exiting the easiest way possible.

VD Trad 20m
8 Tiger Traverse

FA: Peter Harding, 1951

E2 5b Trad 16m
9 Nettle Wine

FA: John Hart, 1978

E4 6b Trad 12m
10 Five Finger Exercise

FA: Andy Edgar, 1976

E2 5c Trad 22m
11 Liquid Assets

FA: John Allen, 1987

E4 6b Trad 22m
12 Renaissance

FA: Brian Rossiter, Chris Craggs & Nigel Baker, 1985

E2 6a Trad 35m

1.3. Suicide Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bower Route 1

FA: Fred Pigott, 1922

HS 4b Trad 10m
2 Requiem

FA: Paul Nunn, 1970

FFA: John Allen, 1975

E3 6a Trad 26m, 2
3 The Long Distance Runnel

FA: Neil Foster, 1996

E5 6c Trad 16m
4 Suicide Wall

FA: Peter Harding & Veronica Lee, 1946

HVS 5b Trad 28m
5 The Child's House

FA: John Allen, 1986

E5 6c Trad 28m
6 Sepulchrave

FA: Paul Nunn, 1970

HVS 5a Trad 18m
7 Savage Messiah

FA: Rob Burwood, 1975

E2 5c Trad 14m
8 Stretch Limo

FA: Andy Cave, 2001

E5 6b Trad 14m
9 Mordaunt

FA: Paul Nunn, 1970

E2 5b Trad 60m, 4
10 North Climb

FA: J. W. Puttrell, 1890

S 4a Trad 10m
11 Jimmy's Crack

FA: Chris Hunter, 1977

HVS 5b Trad 12m

1.4. Cratcliffe Bouldering 80 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.158367, -1.661446

1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle 9 routes in Field

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Middle Slab {FB} 4 Boulder
2 Middle Right {FB} 5+ Boulder
3 Look at Me! {FB} 7A Boulder
4 Look Right {FB} 4+ Boulder
5 Look Right Sit-Start {FR} 6C Boulder
6 Razor Arête {FB} 6C+ Boulder
7 Razor Roof V5 Boulder
8 Cave Wall {FB} 6A Boulder
9 RZA Roof

Traverse the lip of the roof from right to left.

{FB} 7A+ Boulder

1.4.2. Top Boulders 29 routes in Field

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Scoop {FB} 3 Boulder
2 Scoop Arête {FB} 4 Boulder
3 Chips Slab {FB} 3 Boulder
4 Leg Press {FB} 4 Boulder
5 The Squirm {FB} 5 Boulder
6 Flake Problem {FB} 4 Boulder
7 Left Arete Left

Given 6C on UKC. Arete on left hand side.

6A Boulder
8 Left Arete {FB} 6A+ Boulder
9 Problem 5

arête on L side

{FB} 5 Boulder
10 Top Rib {FB} 6A Boulder
11 The Ramp {FB} 4 Boulder
12 Blind Pocket Arête

#highball

{FB} 5+ Boulder
13 Blind Pocket Wall

#highball

{FB} 5+ Boulder
14 Blind Pocket Rib {FB} 5+ Boulder
15 Pink Slab Right {FB} 4 Boulder
16 Pink Arête {FB} 4 Boulder
17 Pink Slab (no chips) {FB} 6A+ Boulder
18 Pink Slab {FB} 3+ Boulder
19 Right Slab {FB} 4+ Boulder
20 Johnny's Groove {FB} 6B+ Boulder
21 Lip Slap {FB} 6C+ Boulder
22 Through Mantel {FB} 6B+ Boulder
23 Last Arête {FB} 6B Boulder
24 Junior Arête {FB} 4+ Boulder
25 Junior Flake {FB} 3+ Boulder
26 Hidden Arête {FB} 5 Boulder
27 Low Slung {FB} 7A Boulder
28 Lower Slung {FB} 7C Boulder
29 Tit Traverse V6 Boulder

1.4.3. Tree Boulders 17 routes in Field

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 T-Crack V8 Boulder
3 Mr. T {FB} 7B Boulder
4 Jerry's Traverse V8 Boulder
5 The Lark Ascending {FB} 6C+ Boulder
6 Little Robin {FB} 5 Boulder
7 Converted {FB} 7B+ Boulder
8 Serpico V5 Boulder
9 Shunting Biscuits V7 Boulder
10 Green Slopey Traverse

L-R

{FB} 6C Boulder
11 Slopey Green Traverse

R-L

{FB} 6C+ Boulder
1.4.3.1. The Egg Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Egg Arete {FB} 3+ Boulder
2 Left Egg {FB} 4 Boulder
3 Problem 2

L-hand line on slab

{FB} 5+ Boulder
4 Eggy Scoops {FB} 5 Boulder
5 Egg Arete {FB} 6B Boulder
6 Eggs is Eggs {FB} 7B+ Boulder
7 Egged On {FB} 5+ Boulder

1.4.4. Crag Boulders 25 routes in Field

Summary:
1.4.4.1. The Hermit's Cave 5 routes in Field
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hermitage Traverse {FB} 6B Boulder
2 The Fence {FB} 4+ Boulder
3 The Bishop {FB} 6B Boulder
4 Chip and Thin {FB} 4+ Boulder
5 Hermitage Hand Jam {FB} 4+ Boulder
1.4.4.2. Owl Gully 11 routes in Field
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Thre Hundred Pounds of Musclin' Man

FA: Ben Bransby

{FB} 7C+ Boulder
2 Percy's Cornflake {FB} 7A+ Boulder
3 Problem 8

#sitstart arête

{FB} 6A Boulder
4 The Arch {FB} 6C+ Boulder
5 Brian's Private Arête {FB} 7B Boulder
6 Brain Dead {FB} 6B+ Boulder
7 Problem 12

arête behind Brain Dead

{FB} 6A+ Boulder
8 Babu Yagu {FB} 7B Boulder
9 Chess Boxer {FB} 7A+ Boulder
10 Sparrow / My Best Friend The Watermelon {FB} 7C Boulder
11 Sparrow Right-Wing {FB} 7B Boulder
1.4.4.3. Hueco Wall 6 routes in Field
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Moss Ridge {FB} 5+ Boulder
2 Chapel of Rest V7 Boulder
3 Wish V7 Boulder
4 Problem 20

break, traverse R-L

{FB} 6C Boulder
5 Percy's Start V5 Boulder
6 Brother Lee Love {FB} 7B Boulder
1.4.4.4. Percy's Roof 3 routes in Field
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 72 V5 Boulder
2 72 Direct V8 Boulder
3 P Crack V8 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
D Oblique Chimney Trad 10m 1.1. Tom Thumb
3 Chips Slab Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
The Scoop Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
VD Owl Gully Trad 20m 1.2. Owl Gully
Weston's Chimney Trad 16m 1.2. Owl Gully
3+ Junior Flake Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Pink Slab Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Left Egg Arete Boulder 1.4.3.1. The Egg Boulder
S 4a North Climb Trad 10m 1.3. Suicide Wall
4 Middle Slab Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Flake Problem Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Leg Press Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Pink Arête Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Pink Slab Right Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Scoop Arête Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
The Ramp Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Left Egg Boulder 1.4.3.1. The Egg Boulder
HS 4b Bower Route 1 Trad 10m 1.3. Suicide Wall
VS 4c Hermitage Crack Trad 8m 1.1. Tom Thumb
4+ Look Right Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Junior Arête Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Right Slab Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Chip and Thin Boulder 1.4.4.1. The Hermit's Cave
Hermitage Hand Jam Boulder 1.4.4.1. The Hermit's Cave
The Fence Boulder 1.4.4.1. The Hermit's Cave
HVS 5a Elliot's Unconquerable Trad 8m 1.1. Tom Thumb
The Giant's Staircase Trad 18m 1.1. Tom Thumb
Sepulchrave Trad 18m 1.3. Suicide Wall
5 Hidden Arête Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Problem 5 Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
The Squirm Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Little Robin Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
Eggy Scoops Boulder 1.4.3.1. The Egg Boulder
HVS 5b The Nemesis Exit Trad 10m 1.1. Tom Thumb
Jimmy's Crack Trad 12m 1.3. Suicide Wall
Suicide Wall Trad 28m 1.3. Suicide Wall
E2 5b Tiger Traverse Trad 16m 1.2. Owl Gully
Mordaunt Trad 60m, 4 1.3. Suicide Wall
5+ Middle Right Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Blind Pocket Arête Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Blind Pocket Rib Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Blind Pocket Wall Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Egged On Boulder 1.4.3.1. The Egg Boulder
Problem 2 Boulder 1.4.3.1. The Egg Boulder
Moss Ridge Boulder 1.4.4.3. Hueco Wall
E1 5c Elliot's Right-hand Trad 8m 1.1. Tom Thumb
E2 5c Bean Stalk Trad 18m 1.1. Tom Thumb
Tom Thumb Trad 18m 1.1. Tom Thumb
Fern Hill Trad 18m 1.2. Owl Gully
Five Finger Exercise Trad 22m 1.2. Owl Gully
Nutcracker Trad 20m 1.2. Owl Gully
Savage Messiah Trad 14m 1.3. Suicide Wall
6A Cave Wall Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Left Arete Left Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Top Rib Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Problem 8 Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
E3 5c Escape/Boot Hill Trad 18m 1.2. Owl Gully
Fern Hill Indirect Trad 20m 1.2. Owl Gully
6A+ Left Arete Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Pink Slab (no chips) Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Problem 12 Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
6B Last Arête Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Egg Arete Boulder 1.4.3.1. The Egg Boulder
Hermitage Traverse Boulder 1.4.4.1. The Hermit's Cave
The Bishop Boulder 1.4.4.1. The Hermit's Cave
E2 6a Renaissance Trad 35m 1.2. Owl Gully
E3 6a Requiem Trad 26m, 2 1.3. Suicide Wall
6B+ Johnny's Groove Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Through Mantel Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Brain Dead Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
6C Look Right Sit-Start Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Green Slopey Traverse Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
Problem 20 Boulder 1.4.4.3. Hueco Wall
V5 Razor Roof Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Serpico Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
Percy's Start Boulder 1.4.4.3. Hueco Wall
72 Boulder 1.4.4.4. Percy's Roof
6C+ Razor Arête Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Lip Slap Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Slopey Green Traverse Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
The Lark Ascending Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
The Arch Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
E4 6b Liquid Assets Trad 22m 1.2. Owl Gully
Nettle Wine Trad 12m 1.2. Owl Gully
E5 6b Reticent Mass Murderer Trad 8m 1.1. Tom Thumb
Stretch Limo Trad 14m 1.3. Suicide Wall
V6 Tit Traverse Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
7A Look at Me! Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Low Slung Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
V7 Shunting Biscuits Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
Chapel of Rest Boulder 1.4.4.3. Hueco Wall
Wish Boulder 1.4.4.3. Hueco Wall
7A+ RZA Roof Boulder 1.4.1. Cratcliffe Middle
Chess Boxer Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
Percy's Cornflake Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
7B Mr. T Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
Babu Yagu Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
Brian's Private Arête Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
Sparrow Right-Wing Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
Brother Lee Love Boulder 1.4.4.3. Hueco Wall
E5 6c The Child's House Trad 28m 1.3. Suicide Wall
The Long Distance Runnel Trad 16m 1.3. Suicide Wall
E6 6c Genocide Trad 8m 1.1. Tom Thumb
V8 Jerry's Traverse Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
T-Crack Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
72 Direct Boulder 1.4.4.4. Percy's Roof
P Crack Boulder 1.4.4.4. Percy's Roof
7B+ Converted Boulder 1.4.3. Tree Boulders
Eggs is Eggs Boulder 1.4.3.1. The Egg Boulder
7C Lower Slung Boulder 1.4.2. Top Boulders
Sparrow Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
7C+ Thre Hundred Pounds of Musclin' Man Boulder 1.4.4.2. Owl Gully
E9 7b The Groove Trad 18m 1.2. Owl Gully
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