Routes as trad in Kazakhstan

Sparsely bolted trad route.

1. 6a, 1 bolt,

2. 6c, 3 bolts,

3. 5a, 2 bolts,

4. 6b, 3 bolts,

5. 6c, 8 bolts,

6. 5b, 1 bolt.

Partially bolted sport route requiring occasional trad gear in some places.

1. 5a, 4 bolts,

2. 5c, 5 bolts,

3. 6a+, 8 bolts,

4. 6b+, 8 bolts,

5. 6b, 4 bolts,

6. 6b+, 9 bolts,

7. 5a, 4 bolts.

The obvious chimney. It is on a rock face slightly left (as viewed from the road) of the formation with a cross. Take small as well as large cams.

The crack left of 'Left route'. Belay from metal spike at the top.

The leftmost chimney. Some loose rock at the top. Descend using a trail that passes over the summit.

Start at the obvious chimney in the middle of the massif. At the top if this chimney, move left up a loose chimney to the summit. Descend using a trail that passes over the summit.

Start at the wide chimney on the right of the massif. Climb the chimney (poor pro but easy climbing), then step right to a ledge to avoid an overhang. Step left again and climb the crack to a few metres to a good ledge. To build a belay, use a crack in the rock wall after the ledge. Descend on the trail or by slinging a boulder on the (climber's) left of the ledge.

The obvious left-leaning crack formed by the large overhanging flake. Belay from the top and descend by walking.

The small crack in the open-book corner. Fairly runout at the top (less so if you take large cams), but the climbing is easy.

Short crack. Start left of the small roof, climb to the ledge, and then continue up the crack.

Start under the roof, and a little to the right. Climb to the roof and then move right into the chimney.

The obvious crack right of Cherep i pokryshka Move left in the thin crack after the horizontal.

Start as for Asterisk, but continue up the obvious corner.

The wide crack left of Pochtamt. BD #5 and #6 cams are necessary. Descent from anchors of Pochtamt.

Start at the wide crack right of Pochtamt and move left below the rooflet to join Pochtamt.

Start as for Grib (left), but move right at the rooflet to reach the ledge. There is a bolt and rap ring for descent. BD #4 cam necessary.

Follow the thin racks after the first bolt of Tort. Offset nuts and small cams.

Two bolts at the top to rap off.

Two bolts at the top to rap off.

Start at the crack right of Surpriz #2 and follow the crack to the anchors. Takes cams up to BD #5

The next crack a few metres right of Shel straha. Crack and bolts lead to a ledge. Then pull the rooflet and continue up and right to the ridge. Descend from the metal spike on the ridge.

Start at the wider crack a metre or two right of Shel boli. Climb the crack to the rooflet and then traverse left to join Shel boli.

Can be climbed in one pitch, but better as two. Doubles of #1-#3 cams are helpful.

P1: Climb past first two bolts of Nagval and move right to corner. Climb corner and belay below rooflet. 6a. P2: Continue up crack until ridge. 6c.

Start in the dihedral just left of Sila bezmolviya. First pitch follows dihedral to the bottom of the slab. Second pitch continues up the slab to the top of the ridge.

Climb easy slab (no protection) to reach crack. Committing move into crack (BD #0.3 protects a ground-fall). Continue up crack then traverse left over bulges to reach the chains of Ogon iznutri.

Climbs the next corner right of Koleso vremeni. From the base of Koleso vremeni, traverse right on slab to reach the obvious corner. The route starts here. Climb corner to slab, traverse right and climb a longer corner. Traverse further right after corner to reach a spike on the ridge.

Starts a few metres left of Maliy serp, below the thin crack. Climb good crack to ledge then continue to top. Solid pro despite appearances. Some chipped holds.

Don't climb this route between April and September. Swallows nest nearby

Starts between Bieliy podtyok and Gnyozda. Climb to the small rooflet, traverse slightly right and continue up Gnyozda for a few metres. Traverse further right into corner and continue to top (spike belay). There are some old bolts, which should not be trusted.

The loose crack left of the bolted routes. An old bolt protects the lower section. Spike or gear belay at the ridge. It is wise for the belayer to shelter under the wall on the right because of loose rock. Takes large cams.

The wide crack just right of Iskry. Cams to #4. Chain for descent.

The left of the two obvious cracks that start on the sloping ledge just right of 'Plyashi v ogne!'. Belay at the chains of 'Plyashi v ogne!'.

The right of the two obvious cracks that start on the sloping ledge just right of 'Plyashi v ogne!'. There are three squares painted on the route halfway up the crack. Belay at the chains of 'Plyashi v ogne!'.

The wide overhanging crack right of Plyashi v ogne! Access by climbing first pitch of Plyashi v ogne!. Traverse right at the top to spike belay on the ridge. Cams to BD #6.

The finger crack just right of 'Tri sheli'. Starts at a ledge which is reached by scrambling up the right-leaning ramp. There are a number of old bolts, but it's better not to clip them. Descend from anchors on the ledge.

The system of three cracks that starts 10-15m right of Plyashi v ogne! Can be climbed in 1, 2, or 3 pitches. Cams to BD #4.

Start to the right of the overhanging offwidth. The moderate crack will lead to the ledge with big rock spikes.

It's funny how 5 meters of a diagonal crack up less than a vertical rock can harm a 7c climbers' self-esteem. Highly recommended.

As easy as it looks from the ground, as hard it is when you get to the overhanging lip with its crack.

Grib is easy to recognize from the tourist trail at bottom of the basin. To descend rappel simultaneously down the opposite sides of the mushroom's head.

From the bottom, once again, it appeared like a walk in the park, in fact, it turned out to be a tricky 7a. There is no place to build a belay on the top. The leader has to sit into a pit and belay from their harness.

For the first 8 meters there is an offwidth that swallows two #5 and one #6 camalots. The crack then narrows and disappears, leaving you in a corner with a couple of pockets for cams. To get down, rappel from a big block on a ledge or climb a 3-meter step and walk down on foot.

That's unusual: it's not as hard as it looks. Don't forget your #6 camalot.

The sub-moderate route, but nevertheless, you'll have to breathe hard for a while.

Short but interesting. This ends on the same ledge as Kazakhsha Kures.

In the upper part, a crack runs out, so you'll have to place a bomber #1 cam and run it out for a few meters up the finishing slab.

Flaring finger to narrow hands crack.

70-degree corner with a good crack inside.

Short fist-sized crack.