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Albania Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 14
  • Ascents: 517
  • Aka: Shqipëria

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Albania 273 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
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S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.114593, 20.210315

summary

Beautiful landscapes with infinite climbing potential that has yet to be explored.

description

The community in Albania is small and enthusiastic and tries to promote and finance their activities by organising an annual climbing festival in October. They maintain a website with general infos about sport climbing in the country at climbingalbania.com. At the time there is no guide book available, but they are in course of developing new crags and adding topos to 27crags, which helps in their financing.

Further information on Albanian rock climbing is available in an essay by John Ely from 2002 „Rock Climbing and Mountaineering in Albania: Photo Essay and Guide“.

access issues

Please contact Climbing Albania before bolting any new routes.

history

Sport climbing is a relatively young sport in Albania, kick started only around 2010 by the German Geoquest expedition, which involved local climbers to establish a bigwall route on Maja e Harapit in the North, as well as a centrally located crag at the Bovilla reservoir near Tirana.

1.1. North Albania 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.115218, 19.924747

1.1.1. Maja e Harapit 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.442963, 19.757287

description

1.2. Central Albania 146 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.260106, 20.013468

1.2.1. Bovilla 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.446973, 19.864057

description

1.2.2. Brar 39 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.401070, 19.900160

description

sportclimbing in canyon. routes from 6b+ up

http://climbingalbania.com/climbing%20spot/brar/

1.2.3. Tirana 0 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Krraba 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.230705, 19.985012

summary

Beautifully situated crag for hot days, since many of the sectors are facing North.

description

Near the hamlet of Skutërrë, this limestone-crag close to Tirana offers plenty of routes and potential for development.

approach

The lower parking (41.221620, 19.979593) is accessible by car via a very bumpy gravel road. The upper parking (41.225467, 19.980404) saves you about 10 to 15 minutes of walking, but is only accessible by 4x4.

From the upper parking, follow the obvious trail to the rocks of Lasagna Wall. Shortly after the first sector, there is a cairn on the right side, marking the path to the other sectors.

1.3. South Albania 124 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.390865, 20.219999

1.3.1. Gjipe 62 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.128634, 19.673302

summary

Limestone gorge at the sea with recent development. Great climbing, nice beach and sea. A perfect holiday spot.

description

Mostly good quality rock on both sides of the gorge which allows you to play with the sun and shade.

Topo: http://climbingalbania.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Gjipe_Topo.pdf

approach

The beach of Gjipe-gorge is between the villages of Vuno and Ilias. If you don't have a high clearance 4x4 it is better to park at the top and hike down to the beach and from there into the gorge.

where to stay

Accomodation in close-by Himare, camping in Jala or at the beach.

history

Climbers from South Tirol (Austria).

1.3.2. Gjinkar 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.197934, 20.411803

description

Nice sector with easy grades mostly vertical.

access issues

Dogs from the shepherd, looks wild and barking but they won't bite. Take a wooden stick or throw a stone close to them to keep distance.

approach

Park to the village. Continue the dirt road. Cross the river and continue to the left. 10-15min.

1.3.3. Petran 18 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.209713, 20.411670

description

access issues

Very sunny with little to no shade.

approach

Park by the simple campground east of the road. The path to the crag starts right below the electricity mast on the western side of the road.

1.3.4. Lengarica 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.245960, 20.439778

description

1.3.5. Maja e Papingut 0 routes in Crag

description

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