A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Oskar Kindbom zac Peatey Mark Gamble Kyle Gardiner Double T Dylan Tusler Steve Kloske Simon Dale Lauren Hunter
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Candy Mountain 20 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Candy Mountain 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -26.925500, 152.948956
description
A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!
Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.
access issues
Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.
approach
From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes well past the Caves Route track. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at around about Charlie.
ethic
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
history
The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom and Zac Trembath in December 2013.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Kind To Be Cruel
Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR. Set: FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014 | 13 | 12m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Cruel To Be Kind
Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR. Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014 | 11 | 12m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★ Dancing In The Rain
Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors. Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014 | 12 | 12m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★ The Magical Liopleurodon
Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 14 | 12m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★ This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy
Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt (crux is getting to 1st bolt) then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 17 | 12m, 4 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Charlie
Contrived, shares last bolt and anchors with TMTNLC. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 17 | 12m, 4 | |||||
7 |
★ More Smart More Safe
This climb starts roughly where the track meets the wall, marked "MSMS" A nice route that follows a line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with After Dinner Delight. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 15 | 12m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★ After Dinner Delight
Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD” Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux. FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 14 | 12m, 6 | |||||
9 |
★ Critter Christmas
Start 2m R of After Dinner Delight, marked “CC” Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Banana King. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux. FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 17 | 12m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★ Banana King
Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK” Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip. FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 14 | 12m, 5 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★ Cookie Monster
FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 18 | 18m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★ Lichen The Candy
Start 2m R of Cookie Monster, unmarked. Follow the line of 6 FHs to a DBB. FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 17 | 18m, 6 | |||||
13 |
★ The Real Rainbow Unicorn
Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked. Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade. FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 16 | 18m, 5 | |||||
14 |
★ Glove Slap
Start 3m R of The Real Rainbow Unicorn, unmarked. Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with One Eyed Wanderer. Gently trend L after the 3rd bolt to find the 4th bolt (hidden from the ground) just over the ledge. Moving R here will push you onto One Eyed Wanderer and away from this bolt. FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 15 | 17m, 5 | |||||
15 |
★ One Eyed Wanderer
Start 1m R of Glove Slap, unmarked. Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Glove Slap. FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 18 | 17m, 5 | |||||
16 |
★ Old Elvis
Start 2m R of One Eyed Wanderer, unmarked. Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Papa Smurf. FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 17 | 18m, 5 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★★ Papa Smurf
Start 2m R of Old Elvis, unmarked. A popular line that follows 5 FHs before trending L to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Old Elvis. FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 19 | 18m, 5 | |||||
18 |
★ Fairy Floss
FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 16 | 18m, 6 | |||||
19 |
★ Happy Pants
10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss. FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 20 | 18m, 6 | |||||
20 |
★ Charlie And The Candy Factory
Traverse the crag from left to right. Fun, easy climb with a few crimpy/compression moves to add spice. Use as many extenders as you have to minimise rope drag. Have another friend/a mobile to communicate with your belayer if it's windy! Follow the line of least resistance: start at Kind to be cruel's first bolt. Then Dancing in the rain's 2nd bolt. Clip next climb, then the bolt hidden under the grass. Move down to Charlie's 2nd bolt. Continue at this level for the next 5 climbs. Head up to Lichen the candy's 3rd bolt, and The real rainbow unicorn's 3rd. Down to Glove slap's 2nd bolt. Down to One eyed wanderer's 1st, and Old Elvis' 1st. Up to the 2nd bolts on Papa smurf, Fairy floss and Happy pants. To finish, either climb Happy Pants to the anchor or traverse a few metres unprotected until you reach the end of the rock. FA: Lauren Hunter, Iain Hunter & Big Steve, 6 Feb 2022 | 17 | 50m, 22 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
11 | ★ | Cruel To Be Kind | 12m, 5 | ||
12 | ★ | Dancing In The Rain | 12m, 5 | ||
13 | ★ | Kind To Be Cruel | 12m, 5 | ||
14 | ★ | After Dinner Delight | 12m, 6 | ||
★ | Banana King | 12m, 5 | |||
★ | The Magical Liopleurodon | 12m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ | Glove Slap | 17m, 5 | ||
★ | More Smart More Safe | 12m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ | Fairy Floss | 18m, 6 | ||
★ | The Real Rainbow Unicorn | 18m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ | Charlie | 12m, 4 | ||
★ | Charlie And The Candy Factory | 50m, 22 | |||
★ | Critter Christmas | 12m, 5 | |||
★ | Lichen The Candy | 18m, 6 | |||
★ | Old Elvis | 18m, 5 | |||
★ | This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy | 12m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ | Cookie Monster | 18m, 5 | ||
★ | One Eyed Wanderer | 17m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ | Papa Smurf | 18m, 5 | ||
20 | ★ | Happy Pants | 18m, 6 |