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Candy Mountain Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Oskar Kindbom zac Mark Gamble Kyle Gardiner Double T Dylan Tusler Steve Kloske

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Candy Mountain 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -26.925500, 152.948956

description

A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!

Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.

access issues

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

approach

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes well past the Caves Route track. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at around about Charlie.

ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

history

The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom and Zac Trembath in December 2013.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kind To Be Cruel

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Set:

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

13 Sport 12m, 5
2 Cruel To Be Kind

Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR.

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

11 Sport 12m, 5
3 Dancing In The Rain

Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors.

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

12 Sport 12m, 5
4 The Magical Liopleurodon

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

14 Sport 12m, 4
5 This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy

Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt (crux is getting to 1st bolt) then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

17 Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Charlie

Contrived, shares last bolt and anchors with TMTNLC.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

17 Sport 12m, 4
7 More Smart More Safe

This climb starts roughly where the track meets the wall, marked "MSMS"

A nice route that follows a line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with After Dinner Delight. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

15 Sport 12m, 5
8 After Dinner Delight

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

14 Sport 12m, 6
9 Critter Christmas

Start 2m R of After Dinner Delight, marked “CC”

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Banana King. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

17 Sport 12m, 5
10 Banana King

Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK”

Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013

14 Sport 12m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Cookie Monster

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013

18 Sport 18m, 5
12 Lichen The Candy

Start 2m R of Cookie Monster, unmarked.

Follow the line of 6 FHs to a DBB.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013

17 Sport 18m, 6
13 The Real Rainbow Unicorn

Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013

16 Sport 18m, 5
14 Glove Slap

Start 3m R of The Real Rainbow Unicorn, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with One Eyed Wanderer. Gently trend L after the 3rd bolt to find the 4th bolt (hidden from the ground) just over the ledge. Moving R here will push you onto One Eyed Wanderer and away from this bolt.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

15 Sport 17m, 5
15 One Eyed Wanderer

Start 1m R of Glove Slap, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Glove Slap.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

18 Sport 17m, 5
16 Old Elvis

Start 2m R of One Eyed Wanderer, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Papa Smurf.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

17 Sport 18m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Papa Smurf

Start 2m R of Old Elvis, unmarked.

A popular line that follows 5 FHs before trending L to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Old Elvis.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

19 Sport 18m, 5
18 Fairy Floss

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

16 Sport 18m, 6
19 Happy Pants

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

20 Sport 18m, 6
20 Charlie And The Candy Factory

Traverse the crag from left to right. Fun, easy climb with a few crimpy/compression moves to add spice. Use as many extenders as you have to minimise rope drag. Have another friend/a mobile to communicate with your belayer if it's windy!

Follow the line of least resistance: start at Kind to be cruel's first bolt. Then Dancing in the rain's 2nd bolt. Clip next climb, then the bolt hidden under the grass. Move down to Charlie's 2nd bolt. Continue at this level for the next 5 climbs. Head up to Lichen the candy's 3rd bolt, and The real rainbow unicorn's 3rd. Down to Glove slap's 2nd bolt. Down to One eyed wanderer's 1st, and Old Elvis' 1st. Up to the 2nd bolts on Papa smurf, Fairy floss and Happy pants. To finish, either climb Happy Pants to the anchor or traverse a few metres unprotected until you reach the end of the rock.

FA: Lauren Hunter, Iain Hunter & Big Steve, 6 Feb 2022

17 Sport 50m, 22

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
11 Cruel To Be Kind Sport 12m, 5
12 Dancing In The Rain Sport 12m, 5
13 Kind To Be Cruel Sport 12m, 5
14 After Dinner Delight Sport 12m, 6
Banana King Sport 12m, 5
The Magical Liopleurodon Sport 12m, 4
15 Glove Slap Sport 17m, 5
More Smart More Safe Sport 12m, 5
16 Fairy Floss Sport 18m, 6
The Real Rainbow Unicorn Sport 18m, 5
17 Charlie Sport 12m, 4
Charlie And The Candy Factory Sport 50m, 22
Critter Christmas Sport 12m, 5
Lichen The Candy Sport 18m, 6
Old Elvis Sport 18m, 5
This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy Sport 12m, 4
18 Cookie Monster Sport 18m, 5
One Eyed Wanderer Sport 17m, 5
19 Papa Smurf Sport 18m, 5
20 Happy Pants Sport 18m, 6
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