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Candy Mountain All Sport climbing 20 routes in cliff

Fixed Gear: Loose Anchor Bolt on Banana King

Able to undo left anchor bolt by hand, both bolt plates are spinning at anchor. Also the top two bolts on Critter Christmas are also loose

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Created about a year ago
20
AU
1113151719

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Description

A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!

Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes well past the Caves Route track. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at around about Charlie.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

History timeline chart

The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom and Zac Trembath in December 2013.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 ★ Kind To Be Cruel Sport 12m, 5

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Set:

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

2
11 ★ Cruel To Be Kind Sport 12m, 5

Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR.

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

3
12 ★ Dancing In The Rain Sport 12m, 5

Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors.

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

4
14 ★ The Magical Liopleurodon Sport 12m, 4

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

5
17 ★ This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy Sport 12m, 4

Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt (crux is getting to 1st bolt) then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

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6
17 ★ Charlie Sport 12m, 4

Contrived, shares last bolt and anchors with TMTNLC.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

7
15 ★ More Smart More Safe Sport 12m, 5

This climb starts roughly where the track meets the wall, marked "MSMS"

A nice route that follows a line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with After Dinner Delight. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

8
14 ★ After Dinner Delight Sport 12m, 6

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

9
17 ★ Critter Christmas Sport 12m, 5

Start 2m R of After Dinner Delight, marked “CC”

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Banana King. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

10
14 ★ Banana King Sport 12m, 5

Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK”

Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013

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11
18 ★ Cookie Monster Sport 18m, 5

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013

12
17 ★ Lichen The Candy Sport 18m, 6

Start 2m R of Cookie Monster, unmarked.

Follow the line of 6 FHs to a DBB.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013

13
16 ★ The Real Rainbow Unicorn Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013

14
15 ★ Glove Slap Sport 17m, 5

Start 3m R of The Real Rainbow Unicorn, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with One Eyed Wanderer. Gently trend L after the 3rd bolt to find the 4th bolt (hidden from the ground) just over the ledge. Moving R here will push you onto One Eyed Wanderer and away from this bolt.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

15
18 ★ One Eyed Wanderer Sport 17m, 5

Start 1m R of Glove Slap, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Glove Slap.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

16
17 ★ Old Elvis Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of One Eyed Wanderer, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Papa Smurf.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

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17
19 ★★ Papa Smurf Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of Old Elvis, unmarked.

A popular line that follows 5 FHs before trending L to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Old Elvis.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

18
16 ★ Fairy Floss Sport 18m, 6

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

19
20 ★ Happy Pants Sport 18m, 6

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

20
17 ★ Charlie And The Candy Factory Sport 50m, 22

Traverse the crag from left to right. Fun, easy climb with a few crimpy/compression moves to add spice. Use as many extenders as you have to minimise rope drag. Have another friend/a mobile to communicate with your belayer if it's windy!

Follow the line of least resistance: start at Kind to be cruel's first bolt. Then Dancing in the rain's 2nd bolt. Clip next climb, then the bolt hidden under the grass. Move down to Charlie's 2nd bolt. Continue at this level for the next 5 climbs. Head up to Lichen the candy's 3rd bolt, and The real rainbow unicorn's 3rd. Down to Glove slap's 2nd bolt. Down to One eyed wanderer's 1st, and Old Elvis' 1st. Up to the 2nd bolts on Papa smurf, Fairy floss and Happy pants. To finish, either climb Happy Pants to the anchor or traverse a few metres unprotected until you reach the end of the rock.

FA: Lauren Hunter, Iain Hunter & Big Steve, 6 Feb 2022

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Queensland Bouldering

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

-5% Buy
ⓘ
South East Queensland Climbing Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Buy
ⓘ

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14 ★ After Dinner Delight
15 ★ More Smart More Safe
19 ★★ Papa Smurf

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Sun 14 May
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