Caves Route Sector Mostly Trad climbing 16 routes in area

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 21m 9 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge to the start of rubbishy gully. Up through the gully or out onto the left hand bounding rib (much cleaner) to large tree belay (?). From here, the exit of Carborundum Chimney is joined, and scrambling to the right eventually leads to the Caves Route.

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 32m 13 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge. Ascend diagonally up & to the right for 4m on the leftside of crevice/crack, cross over the crack, then ascend on small holds & ledges immediately to the right of the crack (to right of overhang). Straight up trending right. Up front of nose until level with large Ironwood tree (?) in gully to the left of nose.

From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan.

Queensland's own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). Rap stations are present on five of the 8 pitches (Aug. 2019). Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for these 5 pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling.

Start: 20m R (down the slope) of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked "CR".

★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route Pitch 1

1. 17m 4 A short pitch that allows the belayer to see roped parties (or top rope from the ground). Traverse out right across big ledges, skirting the vegetation above, then straight up to the DBB.

2. 38m 4 Continue straight up, across big ledges & skirting trees, to the big shoulder & DBB belay.

3. 36m 4 Traverse up R up rock steps, then trend left to ledge with small tree, from here, up the narrowing rock face with surprising exposure to belay ledge (single clip biner) and mouth of Cave 1.

4. 50m 1 Unroped scramble up into Cave 1 & the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

5. 47m 4 Traverse carefully out L side of cave along the narrow, precipitous ledge, until possible to move up to the terraced slab above. Up steep wall above with no protection to either of 2 rap stations. (The higher being the better option for roped parties.) (A belay is available from one of the trees on the LHS of Cave 2.)

6. 100m 1 Unroped scramble from the belay ledge, up the rock steps up to the scrub, & follow this (worn) track through the scrub till you hit a large rock slab. Head down right to the rock slab & mount this up to the prominent chimney/corner.

7. 35m 4 NOTE: THIS 5m SECTION OF CLIMBING IS ABOUT GRADE 15! Up the sheer vertical face on small but good holds, till possible to mantle into the chimney. Easier now (grade 4) up the chimney & rock face above, crossing ledges to a DBB. (This is the true line, but a log that helped the original party climb into the chimney is no longer there. To avoid this hard section, take the Caves Route Variant - the grade 3 slab, out to the left.)

8. 195m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, up rock ledges & bush, till you hit the West Track (Hiker's track).

*Note: There is also another Caves Route variant that avoids the chimney section which starts right at the base of the chimney by taking a short contour to the right hand side until a large cave is found. Go to the end of the cave and scramble up for about 25 m until the top of the NE face is reached. This second variant is slightly easier than the one described above.

This is the easy alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney, which, minus the original log, is pretty stiff. Most rock climbers & seasoned bush walkers will choose to climb this unroped, whilst this description is aimed at those roped ascents.

1. 17m 4 Start at the "CR" painted on the rock: climb trending right past the vegetation, then directly up to the DBB belay. A short pitch which provides the opportunity to track anyone you are belaying, or abseil back down & belay them on TR.

   ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route Pitch 1

2. 37m 4 Continue up the ledges, mounting trees, up to the big shoulder & DBB.

3. 36m 4 Head up right from the belay, then left up the concave scoop, to a small ledge with a tree on it, from here, head up the steep, exposed section right to a natural belay ledge & a single clip biner on chains.

4. 48m Unroped scramble up through Cave 1, then left (facing the cliff), to the lh side & belay tree.

5. 49m 4 Scramble carefully over the rock & along the narrow precipitous ledge to the end, then right up the rock slab to the anchors (2 sets of anchors, the higher set being the better for roped parties.)

6. 60m 1 Unroped scramble up the rock terrace, and follow the well beaten path through the scrub to the base of the slab.

7. 55m 4 Climb the slab, directly in front of where the path meets it, to a concave scoop in the rock, from here, head out left delicately on the 45° slab & angle up right to a natural belay ledge

   ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route alternative

   & DBB.

8. 37m 2 Scamble across the sloping ledge, then up the small cliff face at the end to the shoulder & rejoin the original Caves Route.

9. 155m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, through bush & up rock ledges to meet the West Track.

Start at LH side of Cave 2, up the arete on blocky holds, no protection, then easier climbing up the slab to anchors above slab. Belay option available from one of the trees in Cave 2 lhs.

OPEN PROJECT - the line directly up the guts of cave 3. Heads up through the roof and then out onto the steep headwall to finish standing on the ledge. Will be hard!! Some frail rock that still needs fixing.

A very rare occasion where the original ascentist advises climbers to TR it first, rather than try to onsight it.

Start just right of the initials "SD". Up terraced ledges, scant pro - first viable pro is 15m up broken, treacherous rock. top out on the shoulder above. (This is an old school route, so expect it to be more 14/15ish. It has a reputation for being run-out with no pro.)

First climbed in 1926, this whole section of cliff, including the Modern Traverse and the terrace below, was climbed in the pre-rope era of climbing in Qld. START: RH base of Cave 3, scramble down to a wide dirt ledge, follow this around right & up into Cave 4.

Controversially retrobolted by the Modern Traverse.

This modern traverse into Cave 4 is now bolted (2), making the massive exposure a tad saner. Anchors at the lip of Cave 4.

From Cave 3, scramble down the rock apron, then left to the dirt ledge with small trees on, from here, step up to high first bolt:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - 2 clips on the traverse

then down, out on ledges, to 2nd clip, continue around the arete, on smaller ledges & massive exposure, till the anchor (and sanity) is reached at the lip of Cave 4:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - Anchors in Cave 4