Neither shady nor a glen, this almost north facing black slab was where sport climbing came to Tibrogargan in the 1990s. Some of these routes are quite runout compared to modern sport routes, and a light rack of gear is worth having. Some routes have been recently updated with more bolts to make it more palatable for modern tastes. All the bolts are in good condition. Shade after 2pm in summer. A small cave at the far R of the crag can be used as a rain shelter.
Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.
Located 150m right and uphill of Candy Mountain, and a metre right of Blabbermouth/Sunburnt Buttress. Walk around tourist track and up climbers track to Candy Mountain then slog up hill to the right along rock apron. At top of hill is start of Sunburnt Buttress. Just right of this is a semi detached pillar with a smooth face (Suburban Sprawl).
Most routes have lower-off anchors, however you can top out and walk down the right hand side of the cliff.
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Discovered in March 1996 by a teen Neil Monteith. The routes were mostly equipped with either laborious handrilling, or the novel use of a portable 240v generator, long extension cord and power drill. Without a car, Neil took this equipment on the train from Brisbane and walked it to the crag.
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
Susy G on ★ Highlander 16 R - Susy 2ing John up Highlander
Geoff Lawrie at Shadow Glen - Geoff on P3 of Carborundum Chimney
John Stewart at Shadow Glen - John on Armageddon
Steven Sorell at Shadow Glen - Steve at 2nd belay of Blabbermouth. Oct 2004
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