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Fixed Gear: Loose Anchor Bolt on Banana King

Able to undo left anchor bolt by hand, both bolt plates are spinning at anchor. Also the top two bolts on Critter Christmas are also loose

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago

description

Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt (crux is getting to 1st bolt) then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors.

Route history

Jan 2014First ascent: Steve Kloske

Warnings

22 Apr 2023 Warning Fixed Gear: Loose Anchor Bolt on Banana King

Location

Lat/Lon: -26.92550, 152.94896

Grade citation

17 Assigned grade
17 Steve Kloske
17 [16 - 17] - grAId

ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 53 from 45 ratings.

Difficulty - 17

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 10 ratings.

Suggested Grade

17
18

Based on 10 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 47
Flash 9
Red point 15
Tick 17
Pink point 2
Attempt 7

Comment keywords

tricky mantle awkward rest easy interesting crux hard tough beautiful fun cool enjoyable good

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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