Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Start on two main crimp rails (at head height) then straight up.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start on the jug start of Future Fantasy. Traverse the ledge until two crimps can be seen straight up. Big moves and full commitment leads to a big flake. Top out and then descend via a jump off above parallel Universe.

Great linkup from ‘Crucifiction direct’ to finish up ’Fat Momma’.

Start hanging the sloping edge at the lowest part of the boulder. Traverse left on improbable slopers until a move can be made up to he high positive crimps.

Start clipped into the 2nd bolt of Central to Blackheath. Reachy moves to the lip before powering up to the big rail next to the bolt. Work your way round and clip the last bolt under the roof before committing left through the crimpy slab traverse. Rejoins Blackheath for the last bolt and anchors.

Climb up the sharp arete on some cool pockets. Take a deep breath and get greeted by a insane, fun(type 2) lip boulder problem. The lip makes this a cool little route to try. The mono is not in, that is an old drill hole that needs patching. Originally bolted by G Page and Chucky. Many thanks to them for their hard work and vision.

Starts up pebbles and arches left across the wall to Reverse Pyschology's anchor

Stickclip the high first UB, but best to belay from ground. A tough move off two-finger undercling gives second bolt, followed by gritstone-slapping weirdness to break. Final sandy crack leads to anchors.

Start: Walk along ledge to access.

Was a project for 11 years! The recipe blends some modern techo bouldering with some old school flavour in the form of tough fingerlocks...mmm, zesty! Rebolted after the first ascent (four rings) to encourage repeats! U-bolt for belayer on ledge to start and rap anchor at top.

Sit start on the arete moving immediately left and then finishing up Holistic.

Underling start on the shallow waco. Up through the cave to gain the lip. Spooky mantle into the dirt.

Soft at the grade but it's a serious finish

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

Climb Procrastiwailer but instead of finishing up it keep pumping across to Final Piece and continue riding the pump train to the anchors.

A very popular link-up test piece of the wall. Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into The Final Piece. Fire The Final Piece crux and add or skip the final piece of gear (if you dare the run-out). Absolute classic pumpy link-up.

As for Hybrid Vigour, but continue traversing through to Doctor Pinocchio and finish up that.

As for Pinocchio's Extension but when you near the top of Doctor Pinocchio keep heading right to Overseer.

Pack your draws because this is a super link-up. Climbs the 1st and 2nd of Procrastinator, 2nd and 3rd of Slider, bolt 3, 4 and 5th of Squealer, 4th of Madder, 3rd of Howler, 4th and 5th of Wailer, 4th of The Final Piece and finish up this. Some long slings will help alleviate rope drag.

Start as for the 40 meter mile but head across Dr Pinocchio and finish up Overseer.

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting.

Climbs the brightest patch of orange rock on Tibrogargan - pretty appropriate really, as a tribute to Simon's bright orange hair.

Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there.

Start: Up Caritas for two bolts, then step left onto the intimidating orange wall. Up through the bulge via powerful side-pulling crimps to ledge. Re-join Caritas for its last 3 FH's to finish.

Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency.

A varied steep adventure on classic Tibro features.

1. 20m Climb the initial 8 to 10 meters of Out of the Blue... but stop before it traverses right. Instead go left for a few meters and clip a FH (long sling). Climb out roof past 3 more FHs to lip, from lip follow FHs up steep wall to the right eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. DBB.

2. (Project) Heading out left and up. Bolting unfinished.

Perfect rock and powerful movement sees you into a hard transition, leaving you gasping at Achilles crux.

Climb Four Seasons then break right at the last bolt to reach hidden DBB on Trojan's second pitch (down and right of Trojan's cave about 8m). The Bends starts here. Reach up from under-cling to clip first bolt then leftwards up steep wall clipping another three FH's. Swing left for a couple of devious moves to join Achilles at its crux. Finish up Achilles.

Some of the most bomber rock on Tibro.

Starts as for The Bends but continue climbing straight up, Don't skip the crux by escaping left into Achilles at half way, strong bouldery crux move at the very end will give you grief. Finish at the Achilles anchors.

Start as for IBD for a few bolts then head right, beautiful head wall with tough bouldery moves. Back jump to clean.

Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

Climb as for BFI, but punch left into Acid's main crux at the second last bolt. Bring Popeye's stash of pump coins.

Start on the R face of the sharp ravine in The Lower Main Cliff just past Owl Pillar.

Stickclip the rightmost RB then up the overhanging wall of the ravine past 4 more RBs. The climb originally finished here at grade 22, but now continues leftwards with hard technical moves past 3 FHs to anchor. Keep left at the second last bolt and stay on the line-of-most-resistance—breaking right through the corner feature is LSD.

1. Tough layback start up the corner just right of the aid route. Up stemming corner with increasing difficulty (many ring bolts), then overhang to jug. Tricky section to a right traverse. Steep wild section leads to a rest in a sandpit. Gritty head wall section leading to the aid routes arbitrary p1 belay but it doesn’t stop here in the middle of nowhere - keep climbing ! Go left to corner, then up using holds on the left arete until possible to traverse back right onto the aid line on sandy rock, up into the bathtub ledge. Clip high vertical chain anchor. Amazing pitch of climbing with mostly stunning rock and a little sand here and there. Take 20 draws and long slings.

2. Traverse right off the ledge following a sandy break (FH) to a tricky move back left to snag the first ring bolt. Crimpy kangaroo point style climbing for a handful of bolts, then a traverse right to a hands free rest beneath the bulge. Tricky moves through the bulge to a tenuous stance. Unless your talk dyno ! Then more tricky stuff on great rock to a shake out before finale which traverses left and up to a vertical chain under main roof.

Sit start in small jugs on the arete, one move up the arete then onto the face for some technical hard climbing. drop off jug at the top, far right of the flake.

Big holds to a rare crimp crux, then super horns into the sky. Joins BLD at its final bolt.

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

A link up. Start as for Tropic Thunder clipping its last bolt then staying low traverse in and finish up Gasoline Rainbow.

One of the best link ups in the cave! Takes in a lot of climbing, and a lot of cruxes. Climb Tropic Thunder to above its last bolt, sticking the hard crux side pull, but instead of moving right to clip anchor, move left and finish up GR.

Climb FIHP to anchor, and then take a step right and climb straight up the overhung stemming groove to rooflet. Above this make a move to the right onto crimps with bouldery, spacey moves awaiting above. Anchor shared with NIHP on right over the top of bulge.

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

Climb HLAFB and keep climbing out of the 120 degree roof following the natural feature. A hellish Rose move through the the roof allows you to get over the lip and clip the anchor.

Techy, pumpy, powerful, core intensive, la rose...it's got it all.

Start as for Three Men and a Ladder, finish at the anchor of Like a Bat Out of Hell.

Climb Guns For Show, Knives For A Pro to anchor and then continue onto Sideways Rain for an extra 15metres of pump. *Requires 2 ropes.

Climb GFSKFAP but then continue up through SEH.

Climb 'Like a Bat out of Hell' then keep going up Scrambled Eggs and Honey. Probably will require two ropes to ease the drag. Epic!!!

Defunct (was the batman start to SO).

Batman start from 3rd ring bolt of EWNP. Climb officially starts from the two closest holds to the 3rd bolt (funky jam RH, layaway LH) long steep moves up and left to Space Oddity anchors.

To reach full mastery, keep on going past the Knifey Spooney anchor.

Bouldery start left of Screaming. Control the move to the knife hold and link into Spoonman.

Knifey start, at the spoon continue straight up into the orange scoop on its own set of anchors. One of the more direct climbs at coolum, multiple cruxes and doesn’t let up until you clip the chains.

Climb Spoonman and step left at the anchor. Keep going up to link with some good rock. Finish at Camp III.

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

Climb Spoonman and after the crux, at the large jug rest, continue tending leftwards up 5 new bolts, staying off the route to the left. The route finishes on a single hanger with a ring just below joining Spoonmonster.

Note: I opted to not climb to the Spoonmonster anchor as the rock quality is poor, sharp and dusty and adds nothing to the route in terms of difficultly or quality.

Starts up Spoonman. Once you hit the arete head left below Ironman to join Gladiator.

Links the start of Knifey Spooney into the finish of Wholly Calamity. Some great moves down low to an easier finish than Spoonman. Take a long draw for the bolt before Spoonman crux, and another long draw for the bolt above Screaming's horns.

Traverse left across the blankness in the middle of screamings crux. Finishes up Spoonman. Fun.

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

Starts up 'Eight Minute Abs' to first bolt then traverses left on flakes, finishes up 'Separation Anxiety'

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man. Make sure you mantle the ledge at the anchor to get the tick! Anchor has been placed too low.

Linkup - Climbs Eight Minute Abs past the anchor into Call of Duty, via a 60cm sling on the first COD bolt

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

Climb Bloody Weapon until anchor, then veer left and finish up COD.

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27.

Climb Weapon of Choice and make your way into Renewable energy.

Climb CWAHW but keep on moving left onto COD. Finish up this. The longest route at Coolum.

Start on Caught by the Fuzz, keep going through the roof and finish directly up Armed to the Teeth. Multiple cruxes

Climb Still on a buzz turn first roof and follow the right hand seam, 3 FH. Finish on the perch above the lip of the cave.

Start at the True North boulder problem, climb this for its first bolt and then head left via some cool pinches to the 2nd bolt of Assistance. Go through some crazy techy bouldering that keeps getting harder. Eventually re-enter Full Metal's traverse at its last bolt and finish at its anchor. Also can be done direct clipping Frey’s Link last FH.

Ultimate into grazed.

Climb past full metal anchor to Crazy Horny's. Adds 3 metres of exciting hard climbing to full metal. Also has been done from the true north direct start, a hard 29 by Sam B.

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip. Amazing bouldery climbing without many tricks. Great for getting you strong!

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

Spoonman across to Iron Man's anchor, continue up past 3 FH and start slinging like a cowboy to arrive at camp 3's belay. 5 slings and a small cam will suffice.

Climb BFTB for six FH's then step L and up past another five FH's to lower off in corner. Interesting and technical climbing, the only downside being portions of questionable rock. All the critical holds are solid, but please, no cleaning beyond a brush.

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

The direct on Kill Bill. Start R of NT at the crack. 3 bolts to join KB at the end of the traverse. The climb goes just R of bolt 3 (the patina prevented bolts from being placed further R). Sustained pinches, underclings, sidepulls. Tough 2nd clip, but for full value avoid stickclipping it.

Up the steepest part of the left side of the cave. Start on the chalked holds at the right end of the steep scoop. This route was born as a 26, then grew to 27, now probably 28 or harder after multiple breaks up high. You bolt choss that’s what you get. Could probably use a little glue and love if anyone is motivated.

Link up. Begin up Absinthe to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly right across SS and GASS to finish up Screaming Rage. If instead, at the end, you keep going R and finish up the corner feature (Quiet Rage), it's Getting Buck Right, at low-end 26.

Climb Absinthe to halfway then diagonal naturally right on blobs to join Struggle Snuggle. More pumpy and interesting than the direct and pushes the gnarly SS into the next grade.

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

Crimpy and sustained. At the 5th bolt it makes sense to move R into Nitro for a few moves before punching back L. The back wall is off limits until you're at the anchors. Some folks say 27. Log a personal grade and let the algorithm decide.

Start up Semtex. After the deadpoint move dance left crossing Nitro and finishing up Sat Night.

Sit start 3m left of Beta Blocka start under small rooflet on protruding good fin and crimps around it. Punch straight up to jug the traverse right along crack line. Line goes up diagonally right to ok left gaston crimp and then face crimps of Beta Blocka and straight to jug to finish.

Edmund

Stand start using small holds on left hand side of the boulder. Ascend in glorious style. Boulders to the left are out.

Has been climbed in the past. Grade needs confirmation.

The current hardest route at Serpent. Stickclip first two bolts from chossy ledge. Hard pull onto wall, with continual bouldering which doesn't relent until you clip the anchor. Hard the entire way. Originally an old Aaron Jones project, until he broke the crux hold and deemed it too hard for the time. Many years have passed and it has finally seen a first ascent.

Starts about 3 metres to the right of Minotaur. 1 bolt leads to steep wall. Compressive, powerful climbing follows. Joins into TG after 3 bolts and finishes up it. Sustained and powerful climbing.

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start just right of Medusa at the slabby crack. Stickclip first bolt from chossy ledge. Hard pull straight away to chossy jugs above. Continue on thin holds (crux) culminating with some pumpy wall climbing to anchor above on ledge. The choss just below of the third bolt needs some maintenance (polyester glue smared around the parts that are crumbling).

Easily up slab to high first FH. Carefully clip second FH zigging L then zagging back R to jug at the base of the business (FH). Unlock the first crux to stance with mono pocket and out-of-reach final FH. Now lean into the second crux before a long runout to the anchor.

Stand start on pinches with high right heel. A few compression moves leads to a welcome jug. Top out from there

Sit start from the same undercling as River Journey. Hard moves right to gain the crimps in the middle of the short face.

Sit start at the starting sloping ledge of Yabba dabba doo. Move right to the starting crimps of Boxing clever, and throw under the arch to the big pocket. Traverse right and up to finish. Strenuous strong fingers on very steep territory.

Low start at the big holds left of the overhang. Traverse right on crimps to get under the prow then up with open hands and grunts. A boulder of two halves.

Sit on the shield and figure out how to gain the arete and undercling at 50 degrees. Proper classic boulder. Grade to be confirmed.

Stand start. Left hand on the jug undercling, right on the chungus gaston. up you go!

Good underclings but not much for feet, somehow pull on and then throw to a decent jug and then easy after that.

Sit start far right with two hands in the underclings. Powerful move left past a jug to the thin crimps just right of the arete. A big move finishes above the hanging arete.

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Full traverse of the Graffiti Cave. Start at the left bulge traversing right, following the fan of rock to punch out of the cave following the V6.

Sit start on the sloping rail, throw to the top and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Start as per Roof Ninja, after reaching the jug over the lip traverse right through slimper to good edges topping out right of the start of Like a Samurai. Only the large chock stone with the starting holds is in.

Kieran Pates

Same as for Like a Samurai, but continue under the lip to top out at Katana.

Sit start on sloping crimps. Crux throw right, then traverse along positve ledges to match triangular edge then up. Perhaps soft on the grade. No chockstones are in. Nor is the jug directly above the start holds. Using them this goes as a V5.