Routes in South Australia for selected grade

The incredible diagonal rib on the steep orange Guru Wall.

Sit-start with LH on the good side-pull and RH on the low slopey crimp. Work up and sightly right using the obvious crimps and less obvious footers. The tension is sublime.

The steep orange wall with black stripes just around the corner right of PJ. An unfinished Matt Adams project with 2 bolts and finger pocket in between. Not much else.

Stand-start with the hands in the small juggy heuco. Work up through the edges, move slightly left, underneath the vague weakness in the bulge. Bust some moves, figure how to move the feet, and then figure out how to mantle. Somewhat spicy, due to the landing. (A star has been subtracted due to a painful hold.)

Start on the cheat stone and step up into the leaning undercling crack. Trend right past a double crux at the 2nd and 3rd bolts to gain good holds, then follow the sequential horizontal breaks into a 3rd and potent crux. 6 bolts + chains. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016

Sit-start on obvious low break holds, trend left and up through slopers, pinches and edges to top-out.

Same as Embasy traverse but continue all the way across and exit out Corner Contortion

Sit start on low twin undercling blobs, fire through good holds to large underclings. Monster throw to lip then a technical exit left and up slab. Classic!

A classic of the area! Sit start on good incut's, move up to the large side pull and prepare to go big. After the all points off dyno, a few nice techy moves lead to the top.

Up left hand side of face 2m to the right of Sorry Andrea.

Slightly right of Spastic face. Follows bolts in centre of wall to chains.

Now superseded by 'Following A Feltch'. The original boulder problem start. 1st bolt is for belayers benefit. Stick clip 2nd, then boulder up and right to a small jug under roof, then span right to gain a sidepull and move into Kiss My Brain. Continue over the roof and finish directly up easy headwall.

Climb Fred Radford start through roof then finish as for Kiss My Brain.

A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23.

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

Starts up Geronimo's Cadillac as far as the second bolt then goes up and a little left from there: a couple of fine vertical crimps off to the left and then straight over the bulge to grab a quartz knob, swings up and there is a nice sequence of dynamic moves on the lip of the bulge reminiscent of a skateboarding move.

From the skateboard move the route continues straight up (small crystal finger pocket) and a tricky sequence at the top, sustained until the last move. The line avoids all the holds on Muesli and Extra G.

Not particularly popular and somewhat contrived. Still worth it, particularly if you have route fitness (crux at the top). Follows Crossroads to the roof, then breaks right past underclings to gain the thin letterbox slot in the hanging headwall. Choose a sequence (dynamic or static option) then finish as for North Terrace Stroll. Extended draws for both headwall bolts are mandatory.

Once considered to be 'the 29 project' - that was until Mick waltzed up it during his Summit love affair - grading it 7b+ (26) - at a time when he was doing 28's in two or three tries. Takes The Stroll to the roof, then traverses left into large underclings to gain the Crossroads RHV crux, and finishes as for that. Previously unrecorded. Could be 28.

Start up Crossroads, go into The Stroll at its rest point, then prior to main (top) roof - traverse right into KPDM. Finish as for this.

Takes the right-hand major roof weakness. Start as for NTS and follow it to the blue 'biner. Keep on track heading left but then kick back right through the overlap to the lip jug. Make a hard slab move to reach the break, then blast straight through the main roof via the obvious line (fixed 'biner). Back jump from the last bolt to clean.

Links Itchy Fingered into Payneham

KPDM Direct, slightly harder than KP, but easier than IP! Takes North Terrace Stroll to the fixed biner (2nd bolt) then fires directly up through the post-crux moves of Intellectual Property and rejoins KPDM at it's 3rd bolt. Consistent!

Links Itchy Fingered into KPDM - a longstanding problem finally solved.

At the lip of IP, head right and run it out to the chains of Eddie, finishing up that routes extension. Surprisingly good, rope drag isnt too bad considering..

A traverse starting at Stugang and then linking into Clutch-Boing Link.

Marked with STUGANG! The original boulder/route in the hole and still the best. Hard move up to LH pinch/sidepull, then slightly right into undercling and onwards. Finish at the double shotholed break (original line did not use right hand undercling at the top).

Previously unrecorded but done decades ago. Scartrek start to the RH sidepull pocket, then LH into a sidepull undercling, cross RH to the good edge on Stugang, then into the undercling crux of that route. Finish as for Stugang.

The obvious extension to Stugang, coming off the shotholes straight into a gaston crux, then linking into 'Dr Strike' to finish. Has been soloed, but not regularly!

Start as for Stugang and climb this through the extension crux, then finish as for 'Circus Street'.

Climb Stugang then up via undercling to Circus Street chains.

Dynamic boulder problem starting at the base of Stugang but heading right to the sidepull pocket. Dyno out to the 3-finger pocket in the roof, then out to the hard-to-hit slot, finishing up and right on the big jug under the main roof (Diplomacy's rest).

Diplomacy to the big undercling, then out right to the sloper, then right a move and finish on the Circus Street heel hook horizontal.

Start as for Scartrek or Diplomacy (29 or 28) and climb direct to the Circus Street horizontal via undercling, then up to the birds nest of Dr Strike, and finish as for that route.

The original line. Scartrek into Circus Street finish.

Standing start in the depths of the Hole under the line of pockets. Very steep pocket pulling up to the resting jug under the roof - then out left to finish at the Stugang shotholes (break).

Links 'Diplomacy" into 'International Passport"

Dyno eliminate. Standing start using small LH nubbin crimp on hanging slab, and RH on adjacent sloper with thumb press. Jump for jug under roof!

The line of side-pulls/laybacks through the middle roof. Originally given 28 by the FA (who didn't use kneepads but did utilise 2 kneebars and two shots, stating 'he got lucky'). Reason for the upgrade was due to it going unrepeated for 12 years despite strong efforts from people that had climbed somewhat harder things elsewhere. Then knee rubber was invented...

Jacques the Potato into Chocolate Aftertaste Low.

Climb Stalker to left hand jug, match, then out to breadloaf pinch then finish as for Cocktoe.

Start on the jug under the overhang. Make a move up and then traverse right on low edges and continue as per Pogger.

Crouch start on the sidepull and small edges below the lip. Make a move out to the edge below the lip, continue to mantle out.

The thin seam in the centre of the wall (3 bolts to chains)

The biggest jump move in Adelaide. Lowest crimper rail below A Trick of the Tail - double-handed to the big jug bypassing polished jug of Snagglepuss. A 7'2" dyno.

9 move power endurance line starting as for Mach III/Bicep Buster but busting left all the way across the Snakes Alive sloper.

Start as for Fire play. Before finishing Fire play- reverse the exit sequence of Nightmoves, gain the knee bar rest, then finish as for Black hole.

Firestarter start into Head Like a Hole

Sit start with R+LH on good side pulls. Climb up into 'Nightmoves' underclings and climb this route backwards. Once at the blocky undercling Head up and right and finish matched on the black hole in the back right hand side of the cave.

As for Black Hole Sun but takes the more direct Night Moves exit to finish.

(It's a line out of Burning Down the House). Links new territory straight into the Nightmoves crux, joining it at its crimper as a RH gaston. Start as for BDTH but with a RH on a slopey crimp in the middle of the wall. RH to gaston the Nightmoves intermediate crux crimp, then a very hard shoulder press into the remainder of the crux of Nightmoves. Finish as for that.

Nightmoves, finishing up Burning Down the House.

A Paul Kinnane vision of 2011/12 until Trent took the drivers seat. Starts in the back left hand side of the cave on left hand side pull (RH matched or below it). Move RH to gaston then pop again to a good edge and then left on a series of underclings. Head out the cave and finish on the headwall. Definitely nicer starting on the RH gaston - however description now reflects the FA. Guess everyone will have to do it again! Worth noting that the start hold did break around 2020 but still climbable via this method.

Burden on Society to split finger hold, then traverse horizontally left into WYLRO then into SLAGP and finish up Warm Up Right.

SLAGP to the big jug, then traverse right all the way into 'Editors Right' without using finishing jugs of WYLRO/Burden ie reverse Take a Chance crux.

ABSR + 'Take a Chance'.

Take Phlegm Cycle into all of Scarred for Life. About 38 moves.

Take a Chance + Warm Up Right reverse + SLAGP.

Take a Chance + Warm Up Right reverse + ABSR

The long awaited solution to the 27-year-old open project of Burning Down the House direct finish. Climb the original route to its single bolt loweroff (grade 20 to here), then go straight up to a large jug at the base of the steep wall (not the arete to the left as shown in the 2024 guide). Big moves through the roof lead to disappointing slopers at the base of the short hanging slab, then a further problematic sequence to top out.

Climb 'Trade Route' to its finish, then continue above to reach the 7th BR (normally extended). Up to a prominent handjam then run it out 3.5m to the left hand anchor.

Climb 'Camel Filter' to the handjam at the end of its crux (7th BR), then up right past final boulder problem (8th BR) to lower off.

Climb ‘Marlboro Red’ to the 7th BR then head directly up face to the start of the roof for a brief rest. Use pinches and crimps to fight through blank bulging roof clipping 2 more bolts to gain final head wall. (Extend last draw past lip of the roof to minimise rope drag)

Climb ‘Camel Filter’ to its (6th BR) then break right clipping 3 more to gain a set of jugs over the lip. Mantel and finish up the corner at The Art chains.

Climb 'Trade Embargo' to its 5th BR (extend draw) then break left into the traverse of Silk Rd, (BR optional but skipped on FA). From the blocky undercling of this, clip high bolt (extend draw) and launch up the groove. At the next BR (shared with Marlboro Red), head left and finish via Camel Filter.

A slightly easier variant to Baccarat King. Clip the first Baccarat King roof bolt and then traverse left via a bouldery sequence on underclings until to get to the nearest Marlboro Red footer. Then straight up from there into the Marlboro kneebar and finish for that route. The second roof bolt can be clipped from the good kneebar (if you have long arms), or the sharp blade half way along the traverse. The sharp blade looks sound, but it is worth your belayer being vigilant in case it breaks!

Mega line straight up the highest and steepest part of Red Cliff. Climb Trade Embargo to its anchor, then move slightly right and up into the roof for a good kneebar rest. Blast out directly through the roof onto the headwall and head up on desperate sidepulls into the Marlboro kneebar and finish as for that route. Credit to Redanon for bolting and cleaning the route.

Links Winfield into Camels Don't Sweat

Take Emphysema to its crux, then instead of moving right under the final bolt, move left via gastons into the very finish of CDS.

Links Winfield into Emphysema

Climb Lost to its last draw. Then traverse left into the traverse crux then through to the chains of greed.

Take One Hold One Quest but exit the roof via The Art of Seeing, finishing as for that route.

A traverse of epic proportions. Sit start on right hand side matched on slopper and traverse all the way left on an assortment of holds and and once at the high sloper head up and out.

Sit start under overhang on left hand sloper and right hand sloper side pull. Make a big move to the lip, traversing slightly and once at the two finger pocket head directly up and out on slopers and thin holds.

Sit start on good right hand edge and left hand crimper. Move through two smaller edges then dyno to the good slopper out on the lip. Match to finish. The start will be soon superseded by the obvious start low on the rail. then will move into this. A grade harder.

Sit start with hands matched on jug. Make a big move out right to another juggy feature. Move into the undercling then through two obvious edges out on the lip. From here make a huge move left off a right hand sloping edge to a sloping jug out left and finish on the obvious sloper jug to the left of this.

Start with left hand on side-pull and right hang on crimp. Make a powerful to the top and mantle. A one move powerhouse!

Sit start as for 'Vorpal Sword'. Move left to the small edge and traverse left topping out as for 'Directly Possible'. Downgrade due to better beta.

A link up. Start as for 'Mock Turtles Last Stand' and finish up 'Six Impossible Things'.

Crouched start holding furthest RH edge in the breakline and better LH edge. Big tension move to the slopey pocket, then RH to diagonal slopey sidepull left of arête. Finish up 'Control'.

Sit start on two underclings and make a strong move to a LH sidepull then follow up bulge trending right via small edges and smears to top out on good holds. An instant area classic!

Sit start on good, diagonal leaning holds. Move up to big, flat sloper at base of crack line, then take the crack to top out.

Stand start on furthest right small horizontal edges. Traverse left along the horizontal edges and make a big move to the top. Mantle.

Sit start starts on the sloper and remains unsent.