Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

The line of bolts to the left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt. Climb the shallow corner then move right into the thin layaway seam, following this to tricky topout.

Two pitch extension of 'Tularaemia' adds 30m of additional climbing and increases the grade. 3 15m 27, 8 bolts 4 15m 28, 8 bolts

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

Some of the best moves on the pipes. The two north facing arêtes of Albert's Tomb.

Tricky mantle to fridge hugging finish.

The bolted blunt arête starting just right of Completion Backwards Principle.

Wanders back and forth via. 3 distinct boulder problems.

Possibly 28.

The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm. Brilliant steep bouldery moves lead to easier arete climbing before joining Vanity.

All bolts apart from an optional 0.3 cam on the face traverse of Vanity at mid height.

Bolted arête right of Lost Wanderer. Sustained and powerful.

Sit start the front of the left hand pinnacle is a very hard looking 30 degree overhanging finger crack. Hard to grade V6-V9?

"Either a two star v6 or a one star v7." Sit start, up the face on unlikely looking holds which all seem to face the wrong direction.

Start on middle of big sloper, punch straight up into roof and top out as for Pancakes

Sit start on obvious pinch and low horizontal crack. Head up and right.

Stand start on far left of boulder and traverse right on slopers to finish up Rauls Bad Dreams

Start in back of cave on two flat sidepulls. Move up through small v-slot to a tricky mantle. Named after the three-horned bird orchid's growing on the adjacent boulder.

Climbs the line of U bolts up the face then through the large 7m roof to a dbb 2 meters around the lip of roof. Nice technical face, then a tough 4 move boulder problem getting into the roof jugs then crank through to the dbb. Back jump to clean, dont lower off the bolts over the lip as there is lots of rope drag.

Start as for Calm Before the Storm but go direct through the roof and to the chains of Ignition Sequence Start.

Located 2m R of Ignition Sequence Start. Scramble up the slab and crank through the bulge and then move R to lower from the chains of Rambo.

A desperate endeavour 10m R of Fear Factory. Crank through the bulging wall to a rest in the corner. Traverse R along the break and then up via a desperate boulder problem finish.

Direct start to Lean Mean Fighting Machine

Long low traverse along the edge, under the nose and up and out the entrance. Named after the Philtrum.

Do the first move of Blood Stains then head right into the V0 via some powerful moves.

Starts up New C4's to the last bolt then traverses L along a break on tiny holds to a hard boulder problem finish.

The thin crack with featuring some technical footwork. Upgraded as it's shed some holds since the FA.

Arete behind the tree, from sitting start to hard mantle. A great problem, but the landing is a little dicey, bring a couple of mats. Follow the arete directly - a bit easier if you pike and move right to top out.

Start as for Nice Guy Eddie, at the start of the crack. Move up to side pull / underclings in crack then straight up using sandy pinch. Up to lip then exit up right.

Start as for Scorpions, traverse left and finish up Reservoir Dogs, may be easier in the cold.

Stand start, left hand side pull and right crimp. High foot onto the good crimp. Soft if your tall, likely impossible if your short.

Same lh hold as mr jones climb the arete topout, watch the dab

start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos

start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos

Blank face with committing moves at a reasonable height.

Low shouldery moves from the start holds of “fat Finger” into the start of “members only”. Continue up members only to the top.

A mind-blowing line. The 3rd pitch climbs the arete left of the Free Route. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding.

1. 10m 22 Climb up to the 1st bolt on Deep Play, clip this with a long draw then drop back down a few metres to the horizontal break. Traverse left and around the arête to a stance and belay on the east face.

2. 15m 25 Blast up the face for a few metres then traverse onto the right hand arête. Climb this via a tricky and powerful crux sequence to the ledge. Note: stay on the right hand arête: if you head left at the top it will become way run out and even harder.

3. 40m 27 Starting on the big ledge, follow the finger crack (.5 and .2 camolots plus wires) to the left hand arête and first bolt. Up this past 8BR and a few bits of natural gear. Finish as the Free Route.

Gear List: • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots • 2x 30cm quick draws • 1x 60cm quick draw • 14x quick draws • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling • A ton of Psyche!

The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell.

This huge line takes the corner to the right of the tall blade of rock at water level. Technical face climbing leads to a high crux on the blade. Falling is not an option high on this line. Half boulder problem, half shallow water solo.

Holds broken at crux, harder than 28 now.

Garry’s hard RHV to pitch 4 if TGB. All bolts (10-12 on the pitch). Amazing climbing on excellent golden dolerite with some fantastic tricky sequences in the last half.

Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole.

Another Linkup. Climb all of Bongo in the Congo and finish up Rumble in the Jungle.

Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof.

Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9.

Start on the back wall below the finish of Antichrist. Climb into Antichrist, do the dyno to the ledge, then top out up the water streak on the right side of the ledge.

Hang Start - Start as for 1st V1 then traverse the lip to the right, then head up and right ending to the right of the tree.

SDS under roof at far right of crag. Hard moves out to lip, then up. SDS from under lip is V3. Downgrading has been suggested to V5.

Hard crimp problem between Cripple and Fallen Angel

Start at jugs under roof near left side of fallen block. Up and right via crimps to slopey ledge and the top.

Sitstart at very big jugs then up via thin sharp edges to sloping ledge, high top out.

Start as for Sanguine, but move up then left on slopes and pinches. Finish on jug.

The farthest left of the 3 water-grooves

Stand start the double water groove just to the left of the cave arete.

Start in between El Nino and BuzzyLand at an undercling. Up to the two crimps on BuzzyLand and then straight up.

Start on the left side of the main face and climb a thin seam up, then right, to pass the small roof at the left end of the ledge that cuts across the cliff. Ascend a nice groove to increasingly desperate climbing on the lovely headwall, 17 U bolts.

Start up Event Horizon but continue straight up through a very steep groove. From a cramped rest swing out madly over the hard final roof. 7 bolts to a lower off.

From low rail, ip middle of the steep face, finishing left.

Starting on the right hand pocket and left hand pinch. Up shallow crack without using arete.

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Start matched on incut diagonal hold a couple of metres left of Sledgehammer, up to top jugs.

An ultra classic problem. Sit start on the obvious jug and head up the wall into the committing finishing moves. If you brake the cimps off at the start please put them somewhere safe.

Where the track meets the cliff, up the left side of the overhang. Starting left of the first bolt, come back right and blast up the short, thin arete.

Climb gambit but at second last bolt head left via. a big move for a slightly easier finish.

Start as for firewall but head left and up the sustained headwall.

Adam Bogus's old line.

Up hanging courner then traverse right and pull the roof. Chill on the ledge and pull a funky boulder to the chains.

Up Fawks to break but instead of busting the weird boulder, move right into Firestorm and pull some big moves up the hanging arete.

Brilliant.

An excellent climb starting in the steep alcove just right of Caligula. Up this to the ledge then blast up the steep face past some small holds to a pumpy traverse right on slopers. Finish up the last section of Hercules.

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and following the break to finish up left hand side of the head wall. Classic power endurance route with a heart breaking last move.

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and going up the middle of the head wall.

Sit start, 4m right of the route Et tu, Brute. Out through roof to the lip . Then up to jug.

Obvious line through the small roof at 7m, pull around this on the left and trend diagonally leftwards to the base of the roof. Through this and mantle into the headwall above.

Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête. After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête.

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

Start as for 'Tribute', then swing left past a few more bolts up the face.

Start on low right crimps, climb up the face to a high top out. Sharp.

Climb Crayfish Crack to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts rightwards via. some very creative movement to finish at Beamans anchors.

The exiting moves now succumb to an extreme reach as some holds have disappeared since the first ascent.

Continue up the immaculate and crazy flared finger crack above and slightly left of Animal Instinct's hand crack. Radness

On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB.

The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.

Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney.

Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic.

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.