Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Funky climbing out of the tube.

Easy starting in the hueco.

Layaway crack/flake. May be full of wasps.

Vague arete

Straight up the blocky face

Round arete just left of the bush

Even shorter but still fun.

Stand start with positive crimp.

Easy slab at right hand side of rock.

Sit start Lh undercling, Rh side pull. Up the arete.

Sit start juggy feature on the right arete.

Doubles as the descent route

Up the fun ocean ripped slab to conclude with an even better slide down the slab.

Oliver Rickford

Grass top, lots of juggy ledges (I say lots, but just for the length of the route, maybe 4?). Found on the first small outcrop left of sanditos.

Step off the big stone around the corner to the right to access easy line up the end of the wedge.

Sit start matched on large slopy jug, shoot to the top

Sit start right side of boulder, move up and traverse left to boulders a nice mantle.

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start with high jugs.

After a long week without climbing due to injury, addicted climbers start suffering Climbing Deprivation. After going with his friends to the crag to just belay and take pictures the subject develops Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder. The symptoms include palpitations or pounding heart, accelerated heart rate, sweating, trembling or shaking, dry mouth (not due to medication or dehydration), trying to mentally on-sight a 25, and falling. The only apparent cure for this disorder is to find an easy nearby climb to solo. At Black Stump, this is it.

Easy and dirty climb. A few nice hand jambs and back footing and you are on the ledge. From there, take some pictures of your girlfriend doing a real climb or your friends struggling to clean Little Wednesday. Then chimney up and top out to clean one of your friend's climbs and at least feel you did something productive for the day. If a 7 is too hard for your injury, then change your sneakers and get your climbing shoes.

Since it was my only climb in a whole week I might be overselling it. It's probably (definitely) an awful climb not worth doing.

You'd have to be bored to climb this one.

Start: Start at back of chimney.

Very little to recommend this climb.

Start: Start in middle of chimney

Sit start to mantle

Squat start on large rail to top out

Sit start on arête, straight up to mantle.

Up the corner, all blocks are in. Awkward trad-style bumbling up the corner. Probably similar to a Ewbank 8 or so.

Start on the low side pull. Using the crimp rails, traverse left through the slots and jugs then finish at the end of the wall on the juggy pocket.

Stand start hands on the juggy ledge, climb up and to the right of the tree at the top before topping out above the tree.

Start to the left of The Smell of Chai Chalk in the obvious crack feature. climb up and to the right finishing at the tree.

Sit start, up to the undercling then mantle.

Sit start with hands in the slanting rail. Pull on and up.

Check every foot hold and hand hold before placing weight and don't grab the jugs. They at at risk of being pulled off the wall. General wall features are good for holds otherwise. Worth a look if your bored and want a quick climb with a long walk down. Beautiful scenery and setting. Not a lot of climbing. Climb can be seen from western side of mount. Follow road/path down the rear of the path and look back at the mount to see the face.

This modern traverse into Cave 4 is now bolted (2), making the massive exposure a tad saner. Anchors at the lip of Cave 4.

From Cave 3, scramble down the rock apron, then left to the dirt ledge with small trees on, from here, step up to high first bolt:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - 2 clips on the traverse

then down, out on ledges, to 2nd clip, continue around the arete, on smaller ledges & massive exposure, till the anchor (and sanity) is reached at the lip of Cave 4:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - Anchors in Cave 4

A good way up to cave 4 and beyond, not as clean and classy as The Caves Route but a nice change of scenery.

Start about 50m right of Black Orpheus, in a gully that is accessed by scrambling up just before the track drops down and starts heading around the northern side of the mountain. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.

1. Scramble up the gully, left of Candy Mountain, then up right, into the prominent corner and follow the apron right towards Ross Miller Route until a ramp is met on the left. Scramble up this ramp to a corner belay below the first bolts of the Ross Miller Route.

2. Climb the left leaning gully, to a prominent steelwood tree. Belay from here.

3. Traverse right and diagonally up, following a line of small trees (slings) to a ledge, below a steep short gully. Belay from solid tree or gear.

4. Move left and up (grade 2) or climb the gully directly to avoid rope drag, heading in the direction of cave 4, either stop at the ledge at the bottom of the ramp in front of cave 4 or continue up to the prominent tree on the ramp. Find a suitable tree to break the pitch.

5. Continue up and towards the right side of cave 4 (facing cave) into the gully/chimney, with a cruxy move to top out into cave 4. This pitch can be done without rope. The most popular escape is the Cave 3 traverse (grade 2, now bolted, with anchor), on the left far side of the cave, to join Caves Route, or keep scrambling to the right and in the upper cave 4 to the start of Prometheus II (marked). Due to the weakness of the trees on this route, abseiling is not recommended.

Start at the base of the central north face. A bush-bashing affair with some rock here and there.

1. 35m - Almost straight up, zigzagging slightly to find the line of least resistance to a gully. Tree belay.

2. 12m - Out of the gully to the right and up to the trees. From this stance, scramble unroped on sloping rock (Grade 1) dotted with trees to dense undergrowth. Bushbash straight up to a buttress and follow around to the right and up to a rock wall.

3. 20m - Up a rock gully on the left to a tree belay. Emerge from the undergrowth to find a slab.

4. 20m (crux) - Trend left up the rough slab to a tree belay. Scramble up left over easy rock and through undergrowth to North East shoulder.

Start by climbing to the top of Slider Wall gully. This is an extremely vegetated route, not recommended to pure rock artists of to the inexperienced route finder. From the ledge at the top of Upper Slider, traverse rightward along the base of the rock face for approximately 20m. Due to the inevitable presence of loose rock, climbers must make absolutely sure that Upper Slider is quiet (e.g. deserted) in order to avoid bombarding climbers below.

1. 18m - Up a broken rubbly gully, past an old peg to tree belay.

2. 26m - Continue up with a slight rightward trend, past more pegs following the line of least resistance to a tree belay. Up into bush and rubble. At this point, you have two alternatives - 2a) Continue on up diagonally right, through undergrowth and mank to the south east corner and bushbash to the summit, or 2b) Trend left on Grade 1 rock until a yellow overhanging rock is in view. This rock is above the yellow corner.

3. 32m - From a tree belay, traverse left across an exposed, vegetated ledge and up a short rock pitch. Belay above yellow overhang.

4. 24m - Straight up, then rock and vegetation to wall. Tree belay. From here, scramble left along base of wall for 35m across a small stretch of slab.

5. 40m - From a tree belay, climb up a wide gully (thick vegetation). Then up a vertical, vegetated gully to a tree belay on left side. Continue up gully into white corner.

6. 47m - Up slabs adjacent to corner for about 10m, then traverse right for another 10m, then up to top.

Just Right of the 16, #4 route Left of the overhang. Up on easy jugs to anchors.

Next route left of: Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend. Easy moves up to the first RB, crux is passing this, then easy moves up slab to chains.

Poo is very serious issue which challenges ongoing access to popular climbing areas such as Andromeda, Slider, or Coolum.

Either don't poop at the crag, carry it out, or take the time to learn proper bush toileting procedures. Don't act surprised when you see crags being closed.

Last climb on Legends Wall: easy up to first bolt, over the bulge, then easy to chains.

Traverse left to right, starting up Do Not Shit In The Woods, to first bolt, follow easy line across about halfway up the cliff, then trend upwards to anchors on Brazil. Clip a bolt on each climb as you go.

From the "Adventure Wall", straight up through the waved roof & onto the plateau.

1. 8

2. 8

Start directly opposite 'Midnight Makeout' on 'Owl Pillar'.

Up juggy groove then slab to finish at ledge.

Start 6m R of 'Acid' at the entrance to the ravine.

Juggy slab route with little protection. Rap from ledge with tree or continue up short wall to exit.

Scramble up rough terrain at far right of cliff. Probably shares top with chossmaster. Soloed, 2012

Marked 'KH'. Scramble up the vegetated gully to the base of the leaning pillar which forms a chimney. Climb up and inwards to the 'keyhole' and squeeze through this with difficulty. Bush bash upwards to a tree belay. Leave this one for the bushwalkers!

Marked 'A'. The enjoyable scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall. Follows the exposed crest trending right across the tops of the other climbs for an exposed finish to the summit of Ngungun.

Marked 'WL'. The beginners classic! Up the juggy face crack with good pro to ledge. The top 4m tier is spectacularly pocketed, but poorly protected.

Marked 'CGA'. Pretty standard juggy climbing up to ledge, through mini rooflet, then up face crack above.

Marked 'CG'. Similar climbing to Cee Gee Also, but slightly harder.

Start as for 'Ballsup', then bridge up the shallow chimney on the L using many big jugs.

Marked 'NL'. A reasonable line which lacks the bomber pro of some of the other climbs.

Marked 'PL'. Another good lead for beginners. Up nice groove with adequate pro.

Marked 'LRO'. Trend up and to the left onto a very juggy white wall. Climb this to top with good pro. This climb has some of the biggest holds in South-East Queensland!

Start on the clean, low angle slab in the middle of the wall between the Sentinels and 8m left of the biggest tree. Good rock. Up seam into small L facing corner at half height. Continue straight up to rap off the largest tree on the ledge.

Start 2m L and immediately R of gully. Up onto small ledge, then into crack with bomber gear to bulge. Either through bulge, or to avoid loose blocks, traverse R and finish up 'Butterfree'. Rap off tree.

Start 5m left of 'Prehistoric Dog Hueco Variant'. Weave up the slab on big jugs finding the least line of resistance to ledge then finish directly up to DBB. Bold with only minimal pro.

Starts 60m right of Mr. Busy Pillar, 2m right of Break of Noon at the half chimney (S26 53.768 E152 52.870) and it's the easiest route to the summit from the west side.

Originally on FA, this route was climbed on trad gear for 3 pitches at grade 10, straight up on clean rock from the chimney at the start. Later on, several bushwalkers have bypassed the roped section on the right and placed tape on trees to mark the way. Now is a defined route. Past the initial bypass, the track rejoins the original route and is well worn all the way to the tourist track. A nice steep hike if compared to the horrendous scrub bash of the first ascent. Some isolated sections are still hard (about grade 5) and the rock can be friable and slippery.

1. 110m in 3 pitches of soft rock grade 6 to 10 easy ascending traverse starting through the chimney of a leaning pillar (crux), up and to the right, to a final belay at S26,89742, E152,88223.

2. Pack ropes and gear and begin a nasty steep bush-bash, left along the base of the lower shoulder on mank until flat clean rock is reached (the bivouac S26,89745, E152,88183).

3. From here head up to the summit on easier terrain following the northern base of the lower peak (the knob), through bush until you join the hiking route. From here you can reach the summit in 5 min.

Look for the prominent jug on ITOS, about 6-7m up, and start 4m right of this. Or, alternatively, look for a prominent block, sticking out 15cm, about 10-12m up, the route starts below & right of this and heads up through an inverted "v" & much welcome gear. From the inverted "v", head left, towards the block (more gear), then keep trending slightly left, to ITOS anchors at the grass tuft above.

Start: About 4m left of Avenger, below the shallow right facing corner. No gear for 10m, then small gear in corner, up this to shallow roof, step onto slab, up slab to a stance & trad belay below the main roofs about 15m up. From here, traverse 15m left to small tree & rap station.

Up the right side of the slab. Also the downclimb.

Stand start slab and head up topping out to the right.

Stand start bottom right hand corner and then move left. Some cool moves. Also the downclimb.

Straight up the left arete.

Stand start on jugs and climb over the ledge.

Start: Below the obvious grey S.E. arête.

1. 25m. Tricky start up arête to tree belay.

2. 45m. Right up onto arête. No obvious belay.

3. 40m. Up a little more rock, then scrub bash.

4. 35m. Up diagonally left on tremendous rock. Then right diagonally. Comments: Really superb. Could do with a bit of difficulty!

(2023 NOTE: By agreement with the Rangers, no climbing will take place outside of the cave. This is a register of an historical route only.)

This is a solo. It's possible to reach the summit if you keep bush bashing!

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on the 'Main Wall'. Rap/belay from ring #6.

Climbing 101. Possibly grade 6.

Start at the top of the 1st pitch of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

One way of getting to the start of 'Hunting the Wild Tofu'. Traverse and rise R past 3 bolts to bushy ledge, U bolt belay and U bolt tie down.

Sit start. Next line to the left of BPT. Work way up the side pulls and top out.

Sit start. Work way up side pull crack. Top out. Yell at those too cool for leg ropes.

Up the corner just left of TCC. Gear is sub-optimal, but at least it's easy. May have been climbed before listed fa

Sit start. Easy climbing straight up the arete to a top out.

2m right of PLE. Sit start. More easy climbing up another prominent arete.

Start as for FO but trend diagonally left on juggy holds to finish on CP.

Mildly tricky sit start, but then straight up the face on very good holds.

Climb directly the outer most ridge which gradually travels to the left before topping out.

Follow the crack/gap between the Devils Gullet and the Devils Pantry. Stay on the jugs on the Devils Pantry Wall. Note : on the topo the route goes under, not over the section of Devils Gullet

Sit start on the left side on large hold, straight up.

Sit start on the right hand side on good hold, straight up.

Sit start with both hands in the smile on the right side of the boulder. Go up.