Routes in Australia for selected grade

At last - some truth in advertising! Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing Central Gully. Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.

Start off the top of the detached pillar. Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up.

On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete.

Line left of Greenfingers past two bolts plus gear to anchor.

Start right of Eat Your Greens at the dark grey section of slab. Up boldly to first gear at 6m. Continue up wall 1m left of Pet Parsley until the two routes merge for lower angled finish. 30m lower off.

Up tiny ramps to bolt left of WMT. Up to bottomless crack in pod and to ledge on WMT. Step left and up wall. There are good small wires between bolt and pod if you look around.

Down from Misunderestimated are 2 lines up a short grey bulging wall. Up the right line, climb over or around a large detached block depending on how mad you are feeling to a grey seam leading to ledge under orange roof. Lower off. Watch rope if using 50m.

On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. The steep crack on the L side of the buttress. Surprisingly better than it looks, although it does look bloody awful.

Start 5m R of Red Parrot Chasm on the juggy water-washed slab. Climb the white streak to a two bolt lower-off.

Start 2m R of MG. Up the wall for 8m then step R across cleft, up past small overhang and the unprotected wall to finish.

Start at the line between Stalagmite and Preludes. The crack to break, then tiny R-facing corner past a bolt. Continue past R side of prominent nose and up the buttress to ledge. Finish past a bolt through the pumpy overhang.

Start at the beginning of the gully, in the gap behind Minstrel Pinnacle. Good tricky and enjoyable crack climbing, but with some questionable rock.

Start around corner from 'Frankenstein'. Up wall on left through steep bulge.

Start right of Smeg and the Heads just left of crack. Up wall to break then up more.

Start about five metres right of Red Parrot Jism. Up onto slab then left into short crack. Up this to top.

Not bad.

Up the crack on the east face (the one that looks towards camp), then the SE arete (the one which looks towards the Organ Pipes).

A great little face route reminiscent of Blue Mts sandstone. A few intricate gear placements (interspersed by obvious ones) keeps the pulse up along the way.

Start: Left side of Wind Wall.

start 5m left of sandpiper (2m right of Top Cat). Climb rightward up slab to corner (left of prominent nose). Follow diagonal line, crossing Sandpiper. Continue rightwards to steep overlaps (crux). Finish as for Arab pitch 1. Fun!

1. First pitch of Arab.

2. Directly up face from double ring anchor to roof, climbing over the roof to the right a bit at the giant horn. Belay just after roof.

3. Climb up to the summit on the face keeping 2 meters to the right of Sacana corner when they connect mid-way.

A spectacular journey. 1. 20m Wall right of Sandpiper, continuing up slab/chimney, to good ledge. 2. 25m (crux) Break through overlap as for Arab, step up right, then follow the line of right-facing edges. (This line is left of an obvious yellow stripe of rock). Continue up wall, trending slightly left, to major horizontal break. Don’t touch the loose boulder sitting on the belay ledge. A dramatic, technically interesting pitch. 3. 20m Up black wall (left of Dunes) to the Oasis. 4. 20m As for Dunes, pitch 3. 5. 20m Move right to yellow corner, step up right and follow black rock direct to the summit.

Up the steep jam-crack through the V-cleft lip, then nice flake/crack to small ledge. Step L and up short corner.

Start on the L side of the Oasis (which is 3-4 pitches up Dunes or Eskimo Nell).

The usual offering from these two! The ugly offwidth roof/corner on the L side of the boulder. Finish up EN pitch 5.

Start on the Oasis on the L side of the big boulder which Eskimo Nell pitch 4 crawls under.

Up the middle of the wall to short blank corner, then up and L and short crack. Start under the middle of the grubby wall.

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top. Start above Trench Warfare, under a little wall which faces Dunes Buttress and is on the same level as the start of Thunder Crack (which is described under the Bluff Major section). Easiest access is to rap in after getting to the top either by scrambling up the wall opposite Missing Link or by walking in from the Bluff lookout car park.

A sweet slab. Has lower-offs.

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove. Start just L of G.

Direct finish to No Place For Foxes. A little light on gear.

The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...

Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up.

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face.

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

The thin wall 2m right of Camelot.

Sit start at crimp, straight up and mantle to finish.

Up the seam.

On the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder. Climb the face just left of the easy crack. Contrived but somewhat fun.

Climb the high crack on the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder.

Individual pitch grades were not supplied - overall grade is 18 but some pitches may be easier.

Start: Start: As for 'Orpheus'.

1. 25m (18) Follow obvious and contrived line diagonally left, being careful not to step into gully.

2. 10m (18) Up hideous grovel on left end of 'Redd Tracy' ledge. Belay when possible.

3. 15m (18) Follow line up until it meets 'Directathal' and reverse first moves of this route to join Alis!

A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.

On the E face of the Bard Buttress there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.

1. 33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.

2. 32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.

Ann Pauligk's mid 1970s ascent, first go, was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

The middle of the face, kinking R at one point.

Start: Start on the back of the boulder at the base of the 'Bard Buttress'.

Borderline whether it deserves the "serious" tag, but the crux is quite tricky, with spaced pro. Then again, you've got plenty of clean air up there, and it's still a great route.

Start: Start as for The Bard.

1. 24m (9) Climb the initial slab of Bard and the corner cracks then belay at the start of the R-leading ramp.

2. 20m (16) Pull up L from the ramp then traverse L above the bulge for 6m, then up the face a few metres L of the arete. Belay on the same ledge as The Bard's 2nd belay.

3. 27m (17) Up the line on the R side of the main arete for 8m to a small roof. Now launch up left via steep exciting climbing to gain the next line, which gradually eases. Belay under the obvious roof.

4. 12m (16) Step a bit R to get through the roofs without too much difficulty, to finish on the Bard Terrace.

Take a line just L of 'Eurydice' p2, with a steep flake down low then a loose wall above.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Eurydice'.

Move up then follow the underclings R across 'Orpheus' to join the upper part of p1 of TD.

Start: Start up L from the start of 'Orpheus'.

Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez). Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start and finish as for Shalimar, but climb the R arete of the face (just L of Allez).

Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates Bluff Minor and Bluff Major. Climb the chimney/corner.

Start 2m R of I. The face, leading into I near the top.

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to Scorpion but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the Blockbuster Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17. Start 10m R of I.

The major chimney R of 'Blockbuster' and L of 'Quo Vadis'.

Start: Start R of W.

A great adventure that you will savour for many years. There is a length of rope with a maillon on top (10/18) that you can very easily lower off, thus annulling the need for a seconder and ensuring that whoever has just witnessed your efforts has no excuse but to get on the sharp end!

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time. Start as for ML. Pro requires care before the bolt.

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great. Start in the middle of the West face of Bluff Major, where the ground is at it's highest point. Finish direct to chains on R side of summit boulder, or slightly easier to L side of boulder. Please don't toprope direct off the chains as they see a lot of traffic.

Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Start as for ML. After the initial traverse, go straight up the whole way, finishing 5m R of the capping boulder.

Start as for 'Seneca'.

Climb the first pitch of 'Seneca' then continue directly up through roof (with guano), and another bulge further above.

FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-09-24

Start at the far R edge of 'Seneca' wall.

Topo is vague at the top - pls fix if you know where it finishes.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone - 1977-10-00

P1 (25m, 17) Up corner, around a crack in a bulge, then L to a belay.

P2 (25m, 17) Up the line and through the roof via a scoop.

Start as for Out of the Blue but go right around the roof rather than through it, then back left to rap station. Apparently thin on gear.

The brittle flake on the L wall of the chimney/gully of 'Kaiser' p4.

Start: Start at Kaiser's third belay.

In p1 of Kaiser, go direct up the crack instead of traversing left and dog-legging right.

Straight up above the Kestrel rap station. Move left and mantle the ledge (crux). Straight up from there, sneak right under the roof and continue up mildly overhanging rock to Flinders Lane.

This finish to the top of the cliff is a bit unbalanced but probably worthwhile. Maybe do it in conjunction with the grade 18 third pitch variant.

1. 30m (-) From top of third pitch climb over bulge and continue up, veering slightly right.

2. 24m (-) Through a break in overhangs then follow an obvious crack system up right.

3. 40m (15) Follow line over 2 overhangs to below a prominent obstruction.

4. 12m (18) The large overhang

5. 14m (-) Onwards

A good climb and a nice 1 pitch option in this area.

Start: Start right of 'Yo Yo' - the big gully.

1. 10m (10) Climb up to the terrace vis the easiest route you can find. A good, well-protected grade 19 alternate pitch is the initial 7 metre crack of "They Shoot Pigeons Don't They" and then move left to the belay; just be wary of the big blocks on the ledge.

2. 20m (18) Climb up the corner then step into the right hand line (left-hand line may be slightly easier but protection is more difficult). A few tricky moves lead to some very enjoyable climbing. Traverse up and right to the exit and rap-anchor.

A good pitch up the buttress between Syrinx and The Lute. Double ropes are useful.

1. 40m Up the initially narrow buttress just left of The Lute for about 10m to a blank wall. Traverse 2m left to some seams just right of the Syrinx chimney and go up a few metres. Move back right to the continuation line, and runners, and go up to belay level with the top of the Broken Song Wall. To get off, traverse right to the anchors of The Lute.

‘’We’ll give you a dink, Beau’’ A fantastic journey up Tiger Wall. Start: the next seam right of Little by Little. Begin at ground level, at the brushed streak (or step right from base of Little By Little which makes the first pitch 32m).

1. 45m Up the line, moving out right and then back left when the seam steepens. Easier ground up to the final smooth headwall, which is climbed direct (FH,crux) to a small ledge. Avoid the temptation to go 5m higher to a better looking ledge.

2. 35m A pitch of three increasingly interesting bulges. From the right side of the belay ledge climb up to the first bulge featuring a football-shaped scoop. Continue to the next bulge featuring a bolt runner, and on to the top bulge featuring a prominent crack. This leads to the ledge on the right side of the Belvedere.

3. 35m Up nice crack on right side of the slab. When it blanks out, continue direct to the headwall. A ramp leads out right to the airy prow. Up to terrace.

4. 15m Up wall to next terrace. Walk off right.

The easiest route on Broken Song Wall. Nice climbing but the ledge system breaks the flow.

Belay as for Little By Little.

Move right and go up easy ground on Riding The Quayle to ramp at 5m. Step up and go up diagonally right and up to a slight nose. Move around the left side of the nose to avoid large detached blocks and up to a large ledge that stretches off to the right. Lovely climbing up crack on left edge of ledge until it stops. Smooth wall past a FH to lower-off.

A long second pitch culminating in a fantastic finish up the centre of The Belvedere. Lots of slings and long draws to reduce drag.

1. 35m 17 As for Beetlemania but move up from the rings and belay on right-hand side of ledge. You can belay at the rap rings, but not as comfortable

2. 42m 18 Up the easy ramp above the belay for 7m, and pull over a bulge. Up to next bulge and FH (up to here is as for the second pitch of Riding The Quayle). Climb past the bolt then step left and up to the lovely orange crack leading to the overhang at the base of The Belvedere. Climb the overhang past FH and up to middle of The Belvedere and FH. Up into finishing crack in sensational position (shorter climbers may need to use the guano-stained holds to left to get going).

There are FHs on top to allow a comfortable belay as well as the rap anchor just below the top. 45m abseil to rings near top of first pitch.

So-so. Second pitch is OK.

Start: Scramble across to a line about 3 metres right of The Dribble's second pitch overhang.

1. 25m (14) Line 3 metres right of 'The Dribble' to belay on loose blocks

2. 30m (17) Step left from ledge and up to groove bounding left side of upper wall. Onwards to scrubby ledge. Scramble off down right to rappel.

A delightful second pitch and the approach isn't too bad despite appearances.

Start at a right-facing corner leading to an overhang above the terrace.

1. 25m (15) Bridge corner up to and past overhang. Easy crack and then face climb on the right to avoid scrub. Near the top move right and up to a belay on the right.

2. 15m (18) Step left and up groove and face crack to hard finish when crack fades. Rap anchor directly above.

A good old-fashioned route – a major geological fault above Pan Grove, between Senior Citizens etc and The Bat Cave. It’s the polished chimney right of Rat on Roller Skates, and is visible from the Wimmera Highway.

Chimney and bridge glassy rock past various blockages, exiting left at the top.

An alternate finish is to traverse left from the first chockstone for 3 or 4 metres then go up to rap bolt. Added by Nod and Kieran Loughran 25/10/2018

Start behind the twisted tree.

Wander up through next tier to find belay at callitris.

This route takes a black groove at the right hand end of the ledge. Belay at ledge from where it is possible to walk off right.

Straight up the bulging arete right side of right wall trending left to exit via central groove, stand start from the crimp steps.

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

Up the wall to a ledge and then climb R edge of way to loose blocks (scary) and another ledge. Traverse L past loose blocks (scary) for 2m to a small corner and then up this.

Start: 1m R of Boys is a mossy wall.

Originally graded 12... things were different back then!

Start: At a little painted "L" about 10m R of the L edge of 'Grotto Wall'.

Keeps going straight up to access Toad's chains. Would've been done a 100 times before.

Climb Bastress into the giant scoop. Traverse R about 8m till you get to some gear and go up the wall, then L up the arete to the chains of Hot Coq (which are over the edge).

Climb the face L of 'Boomer' to the top of the crag. Wander off L to Pan Grove or 'Celeste' rap station.

Start: Just L of 'Boomer'.

Up black face to little overhang (crux, small cams) at 3/4 height.

Start: A few metres R of Square

Up wall, passing roof on the L to big ledge at 30m. Walk off here, or take optional finish up V-chimney.

Start: 5m R of 'Squeaker', below prominent ceiling/nose up higher.

The LH diagonal.

Climb the wall 2m R of SFG, trending slightly R. Take the line R of bulge.

The beautiful, but "all too short" thin crack starting well up the face.

Start: Start just L of 'No More Gaps'.

Head diagonally R from 'Argyle Street' to the crack.

Start: Just R of 'Argyle Street'.

Start with left moves off left corner of big boulder in the gully about 20 metres left of New Image. Climb to left of big horizontal then follow the gear to ledge near big guano patch. (25 metres) 14

3 metres left of guano stain climb through roof weakness and steep wall on good pro but tricky moves. Take care of loose boulders at your feet on belay ledge (20 metres to generous ledge) 18

From ledge take easy moves off right side of ledge moving up through slab with limited but sane protection. Tip toe on clean holds through black moss and head up stripe of clean rock saving a purple cam for an essential pocket. Belay past dead tree at base of shallow corner (35 metres) 15

Climb blocky corner left of roof. Easy climbing but careful of rock in places. (25 metres) 10

Rap off perfect bollard at back of pinnacle (5 metres). Walk off up to plateau and right towards lookout road, follow road to central gully track, bring shoes. Or walk and rap down to Pan Grove. (Antur is welsh for adventure)

Boulder up to horizontal break (a few grades harder). Those concerned about their ankles may prefer the chimney or rib on the right until you can join traverse line. Traverse L until crack, up broken line, overlap, wall to rap station on ledge.

Start: 2m L of short chimney.

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

2. 20m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings - 60m to ground or 30m to P1 anchors.

Up then L into line below roof. Around this on R, then up to rap-anchor.

Start: 10m R of Wasp.

Up short flake. Move L, then up and L more to bush. Up steep loose crack above. Heading straight up wall after flake at start is 19.

Start: Under R end of grey prow uphill of Wasp.

Was the original route.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

Up face (tricky to place RPs, then bolt) to ledge. Step R and up crack.

Start: A couple metres R of 'Spider'.

Up crack.

Start: Opposite 'Sound Chaser' (on other side of gully).

A thin crack to an overhanging corner on the L side of the gully. Pass roof on the L.

Up little groove then R a bit and straight up on little incuts.

Start: Opposite WOS at the L side of a mossy wall.

Up and L to a stance, then back R and up crack to wide ledge. Finish up steep wall.

Up wall, the head R to ledge. Move R again then up.

Start: Just L of 2nd gully is a wall with orange and black rock.