Routes in Australia for selected grade

Sustained and enjoyable climbing with interest on every pitch. A bit mossy. Takes the main big corner and crack line on the L side of the cliff, finishing just R of some massive ceilings.

1. 22m 17. An awkward start up the corner on the L leads into the large cracked corner. Up this to a ledge.

2. 16m 17. Step R and climb sustained corner to ledge on L.

3. 14m 17 Up wall to a tricky diagonal crack which leads up L. Finish up line above.

Starts 30m R of Loose End at the discontinuous corner system. Spaced pro and gritty rock make this feel a bit insecure.

1. 25m 18. Up to ledge and climb the corner above. Turn the small roof then the slab to pass the overhang. Traverse 4m R to belay at foot of corner.

2. 15m 13. Up the corner and flakes above and then traverse R to ledge with trees. Abseil off or scramble to top.

R of PtheMD is a steep wall. Around R from this is a wall facing the road. It has a climb with 2FH in the middle of it [Blackbeard]. This climb takes the arête and buttress at the L edge of this wall. Start around the L arête on the South face directly below the steep arête with the two orange streaks to its right.

1. 35m 18. Up easily to foot of arête, climb steep wall L of arête moving R ward to front of buttress where the angle eases. Shallow groove on front of buttress then up until level with roof on R.

2. 15m 9. Up as for Unknown Nuts.

Climb the rib R of TT then step L onto blocks below roof. Straight up through this. Probably very undergraded.

From the block on the ledge 3m L of JL go up on cleaned holds [RPs] to ledge on JL, finish up this

Midway between Serengeti and the RH edge of the black slab. Up slab, then trend diagonally L after half height. Poorly protected.

A bit indirect but has some interesting climbing. About 40m right of Journalistic Licence is an easy angled recessed bay with orange and black striped rock on the left wall and a steep head wall.

1. 30m (crux) Up the easy corner forming the left edge of the bay for about 15m until two metres below the horizontal break and orange bulge in the corner. Step out left and up the wall to below the large chimney/groove in the roof. Traverse right under this to the arête, up this to the bushy ledge. Move the belay 15m right.

2. 20m The crack line throug h the centre of the steep orange and black striped rock then left to large tree (abseil)

A major crack line starting 30m left of Pine Trap.

1. 12m 15. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left below the roof.

2. 24m 18. Muscle through the roof and continue up the big crack.

3. 12m 9. Step left and up the easy wall.

Immediately right of Buzz Aldrin. Follow right leading weakness over first bulge then step left and up central seams.

Pleasant slab. Start just down left of Apollo at a small pillar.Up the pillar, then continue up just left of the arete.

Climb groove at left arete of the Lost in Space Pillar until about 8m above the ground, step right then up the left edge of the wall.

3m left of LL. Diagonal crack in right wall of gully left of Lunar Lander. The finish is dirty.

Surmount bulge at start then up to break. Hard moves in shallow corner (FH) lead to a juggy overhang. Over this then upwards to belay ledge.

Thin layback flake on ledge up and right of main wall. Finish up blocks to tree belay.

Sustained and balancy face climbing. Narrow, grey buttress at right end of cliff distinguished by rounded horizontal breaks. Climb just right of lef t arête. Abseil from tree on ledge above buttress.

Excellent face climbing at right end of outcrop. Cairned. Start up shallow, 3 metre, right facing corner. Finish direct over the overhang.

More nice face climbing. The upper half is a bit hard to protect. Takes the left side of the wall around left of Stiff Little Fingers, starting behind the prominent small pinnacle left of SLF. Follow the series of cracks about two metres tight of the arête, then the scooped face above and slightly left (#1 flexible Friend towards the top).

Very good. Cairned arete 70m left of Chow Pie. Take care with with loose flakes at 6m.

Sustained; recommended. Above and just left of The Garden of Tears is a pinnacle. This is the prominent seam on the east face just left of arête. Abseil descent.

Another excellent climb on superb rock. Start on arête 3m right of Rhino. Up and slightly right to finish up seam just right of arête.

Superb climbing that will clean up with traffic, if it gets any. Shallow groove in arête 5m right of TGOT, then easier line to overhang. Step left and go up steeply just left of main overhang.

Dynamic start. On north face of buttress with previous two climbs, starting from scrubby ledge up right of CTF. Reach over overhang from just right of short fused corner and swing left to easier ground. Up line to where it curves right near the top, then straight up.

Good climbing, could easily be done in one pitch. Major crack at right end of cliff, on the last worthwhile rock, about 20m right of GS. Scramble up to below corner-crack.

1. 15m (crux) Corner-crack to ledge on left, then bulging seam to break. Step left to belay.

2. 25m Step back right and continue up line, steeply in places.

Good climbing up the sizeable face around the arête right of The Chattering Classes. Crack, then sustained face directly above, finishing more easily through a couple of bulges.

Good climbing requiring a forceful approach. Up right side of slabby, NE facing wall 40m right of TS to overhang. Pull up onto steep wall above. Go left then up.

Sustained and good. Line through bulges up front of pinnacle, starting from right. Abseil descent.

Delicate finish. Slabby, NE-facing wall 10 m right of Bogan Buster, starting from small pointed boulder.

Prominent line with some doubtful rock at right end of upper cliff. Left-facing diagonal to cave. Step left to undercut crack then up. Abseil off.

Climb up Where The Catholics Hang Out for 4m to the horizontal crack. Traverse right along this to the middle of the wall, then head straight up.

This is on the first worthwhile buttress above the descent ramp. A small cairn marks the start. Head a little right after the undercut start, then up.

50m right of Bunnis Beanbossil there are two clean corners near the right end of the lower cliff.

1. 15m Use a tree to enter the groove in the prominent left arete of the corners. Head up the groove until you reach a ledge.

2. 15m Climb up the left side of the arete for 2m, then continue up just to the right of it.

Anyone for a free ascent? The vertical crack below the start of Cold Stone & Sober and halfway down the lower section of the Descent Chasm. Free up to thin crack in the small roof, aid this, then finish up left of the chockstone capping roof.

A quality first pitch hidden away. Starts from the right end of the ledge above the first section of chimney of the Descent Chasm (right of Steph and the Boys). 1. 20m (17) Up the series of weaknesses on the grey wall for 5m then traverse right until the difficulty eases. Continue up to belay on top of a small corner, as for Melancholia and Wirilda. 2. 45m (11) Left and up the twin chimneys (as for Melancholia pitch 2).

Very lichenouos, plenty of loose rock and suspect holds. Get up early to avoid the queues. Starts 5m right of The Infinite Sadness at juggy groove. Up the groove following the weakness all the way to belay on the Melancholia traverse.

Another top quality headwall on the final pitch. Start about 15m right of Bullfrog and 7m right of a deep cleft a the first pine tree beside the cliff. 1. 40m Up to a small rock pedestal then thinly up to jugs. Continue up the vertical wall until the angle eases then up to belay in the niche at the base of the prominent crack (the second belay of Flying Feeling). 2. 40m Up the crack (Flying Feeling) for 3m then take the rising traverse out right to the vertical crack. Up this to the pale grey horizontal bulge. Move right and up steeply. The drama continues until a good belay ledge appears 3m to the left. 3. 20m Move back right and up prominent patch of white rock to corner which leads to the top.

This corner is the most prominent line on the right side of the face. Starts about 20m right of La Peitite Mort at corner below large white bird poo stain. 1. 35m Easy corner to belay on the face before the steeping. 2. 35m Negotiate the corner above by climbing out right immediately below a small roof then up to the bird poo niche. Traverse 2m left then up the overhanging wall for about 20m until it is possible to exit right onto a ledge. To descend, traverse right along ledge system and then rap off slings (42m)

A good alternative first pitch for Die Young. Start at the flake 5m left of Euthanasia. 1. 40m Climb the flake and weakness above to stance in middle of wall. Follow line to left side of wall. Up and right a bit to belay a few metres above the Euthanasia bucket stance (next to bolt on Euthanasia Direct Finish). Finish as for Die Young.

Excellent climbing taking in the crux of Die Young whilst adding a much improved first pitch. Start at the entrance to the large chasm at the right side of the face. 1. 35m Up and left to a shallow corner 2m right of the arete. Go up this to a curving corner line leading left across the face. Follow the closed corner, at times on the face, to the bucket stance. 2. 30m Continue up and step left (old piton) into the bird poo niche of Die Young. Continue as for Die Young.

A sensationally overhung route using two aids (one is a bolt) which would no doubt go free. Start as for pitch 2 of Euthanasia.1. 10m Gain the bolt above the belay and traverse right to a nut placement then continue up to ledge. 2, 12m Up the broken line above to easier ground.

Flared crack 3m R of Abercrombie, then middle of wall.

Right side of tunnel. Crack Half way up veer left up thin crack. Finish under roof

Shallow corner right of tunnel

ES to first RB. Veer right to left edge of slabby corner then up

Adds some interest to Houdini. It's not the Direct Finish (the unclimbed fused blank orange corner), but the thin face 2m R. Ie, do half the crux traverse on Houdini, but before getting to the easy ground of Recessed Wall, mantle on the break and go straight up past a good surface wire to the roof. Then step R to rejoin the original.

Direct up wall between WSTS and AAA. Small edges but no tree.

Initialed faintly. Start at small corner with the twin cracks left of Red Tape. Climb corner to triangular roof and continue up right line to top.

Initialed. Undercut crack providing sustained jamming. There was a cam (BD C4 #0.3) stuck in the crux May 2016. Don't bother trying to retrieve it - it has a broken trigger wire, so pulling the release does nothing.

Variant start to Decree Nisi which starts 5m right. Onto flat top the follow lines curving left into Decree Nisi.

Takes the left crack underneath the "toilet seat." Follow greasy crack to top.

Takes right crack up through the "toilet seat." Well protected.

Initialed. Excellent route following steep intimidating crack. Start 6m left of camping cave straight up the overhanging crack. Crux is near the final bulge overhang. Protection is fantastic the whole way, sucking up red and yellow BD Camelot's.

6m right of Carnal Knowledge, where the rock can be reached to the left of the scalloped wall. Pull up and left to the orange line. Up into the cave and a bolt belay. Inspect the bolt before use.

50m or so right of the cave is a striking corner. Initialled. There is frequently an active beehive over the lip near the top. They were quite active 1st April 2016.

Up the red strip on good in cut holds to a small stance. Move right and up to the overlap, then back left and pull through. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Climb the small wall 2m L of On Probation.

Start 2m R of On Probation. Hard start, then up the centre of the dished wall.

Start up the undercut arete 3m R of On Probation, past a bad BR, then up the enjoyable arete.

Up Petty Sessions to the BR, move 2m R, up wall and over short LH corner.