Routes in Australia for selected grade

3 Fhs on far left hand side of cave, lower off single RB.

The only non-steep warmup here. Stickclip. Stemming moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

DM with a batman start to the third bolt.

Toprope free version of The Dark Arts. Can toprope off the DBB atop Dead Bird Chimney.

The crack R of 'Winter Rages'. Anchors as for 'Winter Rages'.

1m left of Finding Adrenalin. Climbs the Line of black painted FH's. Finishes at anchor close to "snake Ledge". Small nuts, and a range of cams will see you to the anchors a few meters under Ill Gotten Gains.

To reach "Snake Ledge" via this route traverse left into Surface Complexity for it's last two bolts reaching the U-bolt anchor.

Start: Scramble up gully to find the first bolt. Belay here.

Some big gymnastic moves on monster jugs. Up the corner into steep terrain. Pull L onto the buttress at half height; watch out for loose blocks here. DBB on ledge just below "Snake Ledge". Using a 70m rope will get you back to the ground.

To access "Snake Ledge" Via this route continue up a further two bolts to anchor. Be mindful of scree.

Start at the next clearing ~20 m uphill from WWALTYNS beneath an obvious bucket jug. This route is the rightmost of a cluster of lines in quick succession.

1. 35m (20) Tricky start to first FH, then it's fairly straightforward, until you get to the third FH then it gets a bit cruxy until you're well and truly past the fourth FH, then continue up on a nice pocketed slab passing more FH's to a DBB.

2. 35m (14) Up passing two FH then navigate your way through the grassy scrub to third FH then continue up easy slab passing more FH's to DBB.

A bold lead! Intensity eases off once you gain the third FH.

Climbs the beginning of "Frequent High Flyers" and joins "The Green Hazy Cloud" at halfway.

Top route in the access gully.

Second climb from the left. Plenty of questionable rock and a big run out between the 3rd and the 4th bolt.

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

Starts a few meters to the right of Bruce and Nemo. Stick clip the first bolt. A climb needing some thought.

Undercut start then up the steep left leaning crack. Break directly up the gently overhung white streak. Super solid features with good gear, shares anchors with Guam.

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

Climb the (somewhat green!) crack and flake L of enter the ninja, with some interference from the tree. Head L on the ledge and up the crack dissecting the bulging buttress. Take care with the chockstones and blocks up high to topout on ledge w/ anchors.

Arete RHS. High first bolt near arete. Somewhat engaging climbing requiring a steady hand. Should one be seized with fear, or suffer a sudden palsy up high, then disaster is imminent.

Starts uphill from ETN and climbs the wild scooped out overhang up high. Bit of a ramble, however, the top 6 metres is the steepest 20 you'll ever climb!

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 9 hangers to anchors. Chossy start but gets better. Belayer wear a helmet!

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

One of the better warm ups on the cliff. An isolated route but well worth doing on great rock. 6 UB’s lead up the steep and juggy wall to anchors over the lip.

Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and an enjoyable miniature piece of climbing. 4 FHs to chains

Climb Pneumothorax past its first two bolts, extending both. Then clip the RB of Tick Typhus, following its three dimensional tunnel until the angle eases. From here, step right to clip the anchors of Pneumothorax. Not an independent route, but quite enjoyable in its own right!

Links the beginning of Vertigo into last bolt of Pneumothorax. Sling a protrusion on the traverse. Not an integral route in it's own right but a linkup of the easiest sections of both routes.

Start three metres left of Don't Worry.com at the arete. Follow bolts through sea of sculpted holds heading for ring bolted anchor in roof. Stay left at crux. A great new warmup for this sector.

Left of Don'tworry.com. Delicate slabing for 3 bolts before tackling the increasingly overhanging architecture.

R side route on Sunset Buttress. Beautiful rock.

Begins on ledge, Face L side of runnel. Good climbing on excellent rock. Harder if you're short.

Sit Start at SSS, and traverse right coming to good foot holds and up next to the step on the track

1m left of SSM. Sitting start, lunging moves to mantle

Start on obvious side pull to right of boulder, stretchy moves to solid holds and top out.

V1 for tall people. V3 for short people. Start on 2 finger crimp for left hand hop up to balancy feet through crimps on face to top out.

Start on two crimps head up slightly to the left using green jug, top out.

Start on top of the boulder leaning against the cliff.

Very well protected with 12 bolts, DUBB. Rap/belay from ring #12.

Replaces EFIG. Climb the wall 4m L of 'Me and My Dog', starting in front of the large burnt out tree. Cross the corner L above the 5th bolt finish up the headwall. 9 bolts. DUB belay.

Be alert but not alarmed.

Climb the wall and corner, overcome the bulge then trend R to ST's p1 belay. Abseil or finish up p2 of ST. Double U bolt belay on the ledge.

Start: Start 5m R of G.O.S. and 5m L of 'String Theory'.

10m left of Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot. All bolts.

Start at the line of black FHs just L of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Use the 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot' belay ledge. A bit run out in places compared to other 'Mt Tinbeerwah' routes.

1. 40m (20)

2. 35m (20)

Start at the big bifurcated box tree 50m R of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing.

1. 40m (19) The first bolt sticks out with a neck as long and graceful as a swan. Climb up through the bulge (crux) to the ledge, U bolt and bolt belay.

2. 35m (20) Straight up, take care at the top, touching the loose blocks for balance only. Belay at rings 19 & 20.

Start on bushy ledge accessed either via 'Traverse Link to 'HtWT'' or by abseil from the top. The abseil is from double U bolts located 15m uphill from rings 19 & 20 (the top of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot').

Very hard to the first bolt and very tricky to the second. Use the U bolt tie down for the belayer to minimise leader fall from first bolt.

1. 30m (20) Use long draws under the overhangs. Straight up through the blocky overhangs and onto the slab. DUBB, toe ledge only. 11 bolts.

2. 20m (20) DUBB. 7 bolts.

Careful on the way down, one 50m rope is NO good.

Start near the arete 50m R of 'Descent of the Machines' where the ground starts to rise up steeply.

10 BRs and DBB. Some tricky moves. Nice.

Start up the low angled slab R of 'The Runes of the Heretics'.

Thin crimping. Grade 20 if you don't use the corner. Shares any of the bolts on 'The Runes of the Heretics' plus 2 more optionals, you choose. A little contrived but worthwhile. DUBB/lower-off.

Sit start. Left hand and right hand match on sloper holds to the far left. Right foot heel hook then mantle over. Fun and short. Must grab middle of the jug at the top for grade send.

Nice traverse from sloper start which is the beginning of Bush Turks.

Start two hands in the sloper slot and work your way up from there to top out finish. Big move at start then eases off dramatically.

Not a sit start. Left hand start on knobby looking rock with white dot on it. Right hand start on shared sloper with bush turkz. Left hand side wall is out. Go straight up and top out.

Two hand match on broken part of rock side pull. Double feet below hands on ledge. Then move left to the letter boxes. Keep going left and top out over the mega horn at the top of “eyes wide closed”.

Start with both feet on the ledge in the cave. Right hand to high right ledge before toes toes toes.

Traverse warm up. Stay on the high line for jugs and good foot options. Careful of brittle rock on top. Start at “BPT” and finish at “Sandy Streak”

Start 1m right of Spooge. Up to salty undercling feature, finish matched on ledge.

Start on R pocket and L sloping crimp. Bump through good edges to a dyno/dead-point for the high-mid left crimp and finish (matched) on the slopey orange triangle. This is Grace's first outdoor set x

Sit start in the bottom crack make your way up and then trend left to finish matched on big slopey jug.

C1 in Dazza's guide but trending left instead of eight and down.

Sit start matched on the sloping hold, straight up the overhung section to mantle.

Takes the obvious right facing corner above the start of Mambo Man . A bit contrived but if you manage to resist stepping right onto Twisted Sister it has an exciting conclusion.

Climb obvious arete just to the right of Pipeline.

Contrived, straight up the grey wall on the right side of Cardiac Arete to a large break, up right onto ledge. From here to top.

Obvious corner between PLE and CP. Tricky sit start but easy otherwise.

Sit start 2m left of Drip. Trend up right. Reachy moves to the top out.

Tends to seep.

Lip traverse from right to left.

Lip traverse from left to right.

Traverse the nice wall in either direction, with feet barely off the ground. Mostly easy, except near ‘Knee Jammers Delight’.

Climbs the broad crack separating the freestanding bloc from the left side of the wall.

Superb climbing up the prominent crack right of GGG. Start up GGG and then at 5m head up right into a corner to a roof. Traverse out right to a juggy crack splitting the bulge. Up this to a little niche and then up and left to finish.

Slightly overhanging with nice solid moves. Head diagonally up to the right until you get to the crack, then jam the cracks to the top.

Sit start matched on the crimp rail, throw to the top and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start with both hands on the right-hand side pull in the crack. Head straight up.

Enter the opening on the east side of the boulder, squeeze up and right through opening to top out

A good boulder to train for slimpers.

Sit start: up the left.

Lay backing up arete feature. Sit start for extra credit. Going left up the crimps up the face earns you a V3. Beware the loose block.

Sit start Lh on rail, Rh on jug. Up through gaston sequence to top out.

Sit start in big undercling 10 mtrs left (east) of Breaching Whale. Mantle onto the ledge.

Sit start on the juggy underclings, stand up and work your way up over the nose staying right of the vertical seam crack.

Same start as Amphitrite's Pinch however this time move further left onto the ledge and up and out that way.

Climb starts 3m Left of Chimney Sweep. P1 10m up steep face left of chimney past 4 FH's then up passing another FH and sling tree to DBB on ledge. P2 10m follow line of 5 x FH's to DBB or top out to belay off council ring anchors.

Scramble up easily to base of intimidating overhang and stick clip first bolt. Fun pumpy moves through this (+/- a heartattack!) to the slab above. Take a step left and continue up interesting rock to a ledge. Anchor is on right side of ledge (shared with RFO).

Start at the lefthand end of the buttress. Follow a crack straight up to the perched boulder. Traverse right along the slabby ledge to an awesome splitter crack. Up this to finish over the top.

Six FH’s to finish on grassy ledge with 3 bolts. Rap or walk off left along ledge (which leads to 'The Lookout' wall). Amazing, tricky and committing climbing. You can access it from climbing Minotaur P1 and traversing left across to starting anchor, as an easier alternative to climbing Stingray P1.

Stickclip start. Up slab then ginormous undercling slap to massive jug. 5 FH?s.

Surprisingly sustained. Climbs through an interesting roof/cave section. Four FH’s and a BR on the headwall to chains. Take a medium hex or big wire (optional).

Quite varied climbing. Bouldery start up seam onto balancy slab/corner. Contort L into finger crack to layoff though bulge, then easier slab climbing to top (station on L). Four FH’s. Please be careful clipping the second bolt, or stickclip it.

Up the crack on wires to rooflet. Over this (FH) and up face to lower off.

Powerful. Starts about 4m L of PA. Up black rock passing FHs. Crux is around the third one. Top is runout, and finishes at PA’s chains. Never feels like a 19.

Technical. Starting on the pedestal 3m L of OOA. Line of FH’s up the easiest looking section. A stern crank down low leads to an intricate and excellent upper half.

Starts 6m L of OOA. Up through small roof and up superb stone on the headwall passing a fixed thread to lower off.

Sit start with two hands on shelf on the back side of the elf on a shelf ledge window. Move up and through the hole to finish sitting on the elf on a shelf ledge.

Start left hand on positive sloper, right hand sloper. Straight up to mantle sandy shelf.

Starts the same as Bummin' but head left of the crack to the topout, avoiding using any holds on the right of the crack, other than pressing on the arete.

Continuation of 'The Reach around Toe Curler' Follow the same line with same restriction however move around the 'Up the Shaft' feature and top out at 'Bummin''

Fun but a little bit scary traverse up and around.

Sit start matched on high crimp, traverse right staying below the lip. Mantle at highest point.

Sit start matched on crimp rail.

Start compressed low on good holds.

shortcut to get to Wet Boot spot. surprisingly terrifying.

Start on the cut-out on the arete. Work your way up using the crimp on the right and the arete on the left. Hit the glory jug then an easy mantle finish.

Start 2 hands in the first 2 small crimps where the lower crack on the front face begins. Climb up and stay along the crack until you get to the corner of the crack, and then climb up the side face of LilCap for a nice semi sketchy top out.