Routes in Australia for selected grade

The looming arete in the gully climbers left of Starless Buttress, covered mostly in Lichen. Line goes direct up the right side of the arete, find whatever gear you can. Committing final move up overhang to jugs.

Very nice, albeit short. A rare sport route at this grade at Araps. There is gear after the last bolt, but it's very easy.

Slab, crack, then steep but somewhat contrived arête. Take some wires and mid size cams for the middle section.

From the start of PN, scramble up gully towards base of vegetated, mossy corner (Gethsemane). Just before the corner is a seam and groove to a ledge then a crack up the orange and black wall to big orange roof. At roof, traverse left to anchors on PN. Don't lower off with a 50m rope.

The overhang and wall R of AW. Start just R of AW.

An enjoyable long pitch if linked, but do two pitches if the second is any chance of dropping the crux near the ground. Start as for Wild Oats.

1. 18m (20) Boulder problem start then boldly up thin seam to belay at stance level with Reaper belay. Note this pitch is given 21 under the Fine Arts description.

2. 22m (19) Up crack then break left. Straight up past shattered rock (avoidable) and spaced pro to finish up thin crack near arete.

Descend by making a roped traverse left, either 5m to (an easy) reverse mantle to the chains of Taste Sensation (33m rap) or 15m to the DRB of Berserk (25m rap).

Start under the SE arete of the Reaper Buttress, 2m R of Incest and 6m L of Red Parrot Chasm.

1. 25m (20) Bouldery crux start up weakness, then step R (going straight up is the scary 21 first pitch of Fine Arts). Join twin cracks to ledge. Still quite runout though easier.

2. 25m (15) Up to horizontal then head L around arete for about 10m and up the main crack.

3. 20m (-) Traverse easily off L, or don your crampons for the summit.

Start 1m R of SC. Trend a bit R to a smooth grey bulge with no pro (the gully just to the R is NOT an escape gully despite appearances). Walk R to the rap station at the L end of the Pillars.

A fine balancy slab which is harder for the vertically challenged. Start 1m R of Diagonal Crack.

The thin crack. After the crack eases the easiest finish is on the L, but pulling direct over the little overlap and up the short wall above is better.

Start 2m R of RS.

1. 25m (20) Boldly up the face to the cave.

2. 10m (-) Move L and up short face to the Pillars.

Start 8m R of D. The wide crack, then the roof and wall.

Start 1m R of Preludes. Up to small stance. A couple of commiting moves lead up to a bolt, then a slippery crux gains a shallow R-facing corner to rap anchors on the ledge. Lower off.

Alternatively at the top go up the finger crack of Stalagmite for a few moves and then right up the headwall. It feels a bit loose up there so take care and warn people below.

Thin and bold. Start R of Preludes, and directly opposite Scourge (which is on Minstrel Pinnacle).

Short crack, then trend R at bulge to large flake. Up L to 2nd bulge then roof.

Start R of A. The rib on the L of the smooth wall, past break, until it eases off. Now traverse R then go up.

Bold. Don't forget the mattress.

Start: Right of Wild Rose at obvious crack.

Up crack swinging right to arete and stance. Back up left onto arete. Wander to top.

The central line with poor pro at first.

Start: Start in the chasm, in the middle of the north face of Minstrel Pinnacle.

Straightens out Jon Muir's old route which climbed mostly off to the L. Starts immediately L of 'Scourge'. A difficult pull or two leads up past two bolts and finishes directly up the seam above and up the middle of the final headwall.

Up past 'Oh Bondage' there's a tight gully with a slender buttress in it. Obvious but not worthwhile. Probably should be in 'Skyline Walls' section.

Start up orange flake 2m R of major crack then scramble up ledges. Finish through overhang.

The ugly black crack beneath the belay of LE.

Start: Start R of SS.

Takes the southwest arete of the Dreadnought Buttress, from a ledge above Intergalactic Space Patrol. Approach the ledge via a crack just right of Cranking for Jesus.

Climb Arab p3 for 4m then step L and up. Stay out of Saracen and traverse R along the lip of the roof, to join a thin crack, straight on up the face, and take the roof by the R. The original route has a poxy independent first pitch starting 10m L of Saracen but you're far better off approaching via Arab as described.

Start at Arab's second belay.

Go R under roof to juggy exit. Start on the ledge above Icecream Man.

Start and finish have poor pro. Straight up (was originally brushed very clean but may have grown back). Finish up shallow corner L of an orange nose.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Brontosaurus' at L end of ledge.

The subtle weakness in frictional rock 20m up left from Deeply Techo. Lots of gear if you can hang out to place it; small wires are very handy. Start 20m up L from DT. Now has a rap anchor.

Some nice rock and climbing in the shade and close to camp. The ledge below the crux slab makes it advisable to break into two pitches. Start as for Firedance.

1. 23m 16 Up a couple of metres until able to move right onto the obvious traverse line which rapidly eases (make sure to protect the second ). After 10 or 12 metres of traversing right, move up right of a bushy crack and up grey wall (FH, tiny cams) to ledge below black slab.

2. 10m 19 Off block up centre of black slab. Travel light, 2 FH and a wire or two. 30m abseil.

The line delineating the L side of the Morfydd pillar is freshly cleaned. Desperate start protected by a 1 RP leads to sustained, thought provoking crack climbing. Traverse off to NS anchors.

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at Arapiles. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch. Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle. Rap anchor at the top.

As for Visual Laxative to the first ledge, then dodge the crux by going straight up the flake to the second ledge.

This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang.

Start: Start as for O-W.

Wagalak's chains unfortunately were a retrobolt of this route. But on the upside, if you lower off the chains this is possibly the best wet weather 19 at 'Arapiles'. Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it until 2m below the roof. Now traverse left along the break for 8m to the arête (where you will now find Wagalak's chains). Finish straight up the nice cracked arête. Unless you like ropedrag, use double ropes or split it into two pitches at the chains.

Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again.

Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney'

Not much pro.

Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall.

A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers.

Start: Start on the far L.

The line between Minimus and Camelot.

Worthless pro!

Start at bottom sloping side of SW side of the boulder. Traverse along the lip then round nose and up.

Starting on the two obvious crimps and using the sidepull to make your way right . Avoid using the obvious juggy ledges. Finishes on the round white marble-y hold.

Stand start in jam then up left and top out. Looks like a quite hard sit start has been done

On the trackside of the boulder. Up big suspect flakes.

Traverse R to L

Rounded arete on good holds

Sit start on obvious jug, then straight up to top out via ledge.

Reachy over the L side of the roof past a piton, then easily up a groove to a rap station.

Start: Start in a cave up near the top of the gully.

Later became Tony's Route (the present direct line), though 90% of it had been climbed in the 1960's as 'The Desired'.

Start: Start below the pitch 1 corner of 'Orpheus'.

1. 45m (19) Directly up into the cruxy corner, then continue steeply up direct crack to a small stance.

2. 30m (14) Much easier and less good climbing takes you to the Bard Terrace. Solo off left from here or climb the last pitch of Bard or the wide corner.

Start: Start 15m up the gully, at an orange ledge.

1. 18m (-) Traverse R on pale rock then up corner to belay at guano niche on the R.

2. 43m (19) Originally done in 3 pitches. Up the L-trending ramp (move R around a hard bit).

3. 18m (-) An overhang then up R.

4. 33m (-) 'Steep' flake on L then up loose ledges.

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the left one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on the Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the right one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

The steep sickle crack is a great alternative start for 'Poppies'. Finish up it.

Start: Start 2m R of E.

Start as for The Bard, or by traversing easily R from near the base of Eurydice.

1. 35m (19) Wander up The 'Bard' slab, then continue trending slightly left over bulges (at one point entirely on loose blocks/flakes - you can avoid these by doing OPM). Belay a few metres R of Eurydice's 1st belay.

2. 35m (19) Punch through the low roof at a weakness 3m R of Eurydice, then diagonal right and blast up the great red wall, staying a few metres L of the main arete. Belay on the Bard Terrace.

Start: Start as for The Bard.

1. 34m (15) Up the initial slab of The Bard, but instead of gaining the ramp via the easy flake-corner on the L, step R and up a crack between The Bard and Wall Street to the ramp. Belay at the top of the ramp.

2. 25m (20) Take the line just L of the arete to a ledge. The face above has a tough committing move (although you can avoid it on the R), after which you move L and go up the arete. Move R at the scary loose blocks then up to ledge.

3. 14m (-) Climb the R crack (R of Bard p4) to the Bard Terrace.

Start at the large flake topped with sharp, broken rock, a few metres down from the start of Shoadee. The difficulties ease soon after pulling through the steepness, then trend slightly right to join the corner of Shalimar.

It seems unlikely that this route wasn't done earlier, but the only route written up in the vicinity that I can find is "Let Me Cry" (graded 25X).

Start at the anchor above Inquisition. Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

Some tough moves off the ground past a good cam then a bolt, then follow the fantastic R-curving crack all the way.

Start: Start 4m L of S.

Bumped up to 2 stars now that the dangerous start has been fixed. This is a good way to approach the elegant upper sections of 'Scorpion' or 'Kama Sutra', if their overhung trench starts don't appeal.

Start: Start 2m L of S.

1. 15m (20) Tough thin crack for 5m (FH added w/ permission March 2011) then traverse R across 'Scorpion' to belay as for 'Kama Sutra' (2 rusty carrots).

2. 15m (19) Finish up the excellent second pitch of 'Kama Sutra', with 2 FHs up high.

The obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of Bluff Major. Wander up the crack to the top. It’s possible to head L to the anchor of FD if you want to lower off, otherwise top out.

Lust in the Lichen could be considered a more fitting name.

Climb Bulger pitch 2 for 6m then move L to rusty FH (the fourth bolt of Lust). From here go straight up, then step left to join the arête. It's tempting to traverse 3m left from the bolt on much cleaner rock but this is significantly harder than grade 20 and tends to lead you into Despatched pitch 2 rather than onto the arête.

As for The Keyhole then take the steep crack 3m L of The Keyhole. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

Start at the top of Dire Straights. You need a cairn to start - if you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

2 bolts

Walk-off

Takes the square-cut L-facing corner through the roofs R of 'Time Out'.

Start 3m R of 'Seneca'.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day (alt) - 1996-06-09

P1 (30m, 19, 1 bolts) Straight up the sickle-shaped crack to a jug below the bulge. Unlikely moves through the bulge (BR) to belay on Seneca's loose traverse.

P2 (20m, 20, 1 bolts) Directly up to the square cut corner (BR), through this then R to the arete and up.

1. 18m (2) As for Eagle Cleft to base of chimney.

2. 32m (19) Up Eagle Cleft direct chimney for 15m, bridge out and step on to right wall past bolt (19) up flake and traverse 5m to belay at chains.

3. 17m (19) Directly up past loose blocks(pinned) to guano under roof. Exciting and exposed moves past 2 bolts to bolt belay.

4. 22m (15) directly up wall for 18m then traverse right for 3m to belay as for new tricks.

5. 25m (14) Directly up and through overhang past bolt on central buttress to bolt belay.

Another worthless traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'.

A better way to get to the crux at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start 2m L of 'The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly'. Up the easy slab then a thin crack (this bit goes at 18). Join the original first pitch for it's final cruxy corner

Pitch 1 has seen a few very serious falls, but the protection is quite ok if you take care to eliminate directional forces on the crux pro. If you don't know how to do this, then this route might deserve a "serious" rating.

Start: About 25m R of 'Eagle Cleft' there is the first significant weakness in the big roof. Start under this.

1. 35m (20) Up long slabby crack to beneath a short steep corner. Make sure you set good directional pro here as the crux wires can be susceptible to outwards force. Cruxy moves up the corner to a ledge.

2. 15m (20) The intimidating steep crack through the bulge above climbs beautifully. You'll reach a cave with a rap anchor (50m to the ground).

3. 50m (-) Don't bother with this, rap off instead. Up mossiness then into a polished chimney which leads to Flinders Lane.

The roof is cool. Said to be 100m, which looks right, but the pitch lengths don't add up so you'll have to make do.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Underneath the Colours'.

1. 24m (20) Bouldery crux up the blank-looking smooth wall past a fixed sling. Easier jugs follow.

2. 18m (-) Up onto foothold on bulge. Trend slightly L to stance.

3. 27m (-) Smooth wall to red roof. Bridge out to a blind reach around the lip and swing on the jug. 'Doddle' onwards.

Just right of Bienenstich, slab moves up past a bolt to a crackline. Up this then L to the depression above Bienenstich. Up to second bolt and up glorious white wall on good holds to double ring bolt anchor.

The first section is probably a repeat of 'Underneath the Colours', but the top wall is new and very worthwhile. Maybe Underneath the Colours and Antiques Road Show should have their grades aligned seeing as they share a crux move at the first bolt.

You can also start up Ab Fab and traverse in above the first bolt for a great 18.

More direct second pitch to Ab Fab

The left wall of Kestrel. Scramble up the first 3 metres to the alcove. Small corner then past bolt to seam and follow this for 18m to join arete, eventually meeting Skylark for the final few metres

After the rooflet on Supersonic Moose, continue straight into Kestral. It's the obvious thing to do.

As Flying Moose except keep left at top and gain crack in overlap 3 metres right of Kestrel. A trad anchor can be built here. Up through crack and gain rising right traverse to easy stance then up the left facing corner of Surfacing before avoiding the boulders above by stepping left into Kestrel for the final 8 metres or so to the Kestrel rap chains.

Start 5 metres right of the Kestrel ramp beneath a bolt. Climb directly up past bolt and wall above to a more slabby section veering left to easy stance and shallow corner. Directly up to rap chains.

A good single pitch to a rap anchor or an approach to the pitches above, The first climb in the area, it was filthy, the exact start wasn't clear and it had a weak second pitch. Now the first pitch is cleaned and re-instated and we'll just forget about pitch 2.

Start between Kestrel and Yo Yo.

Up past BR towards little overlap then up into shallow corner on it's left side. Up line to major overlap at 25m, moving right below this to rap anchors.

Good climb up the faces between 'Kestrel' and 'Yo Yo' all the way to Flinders Lane. Start midway between these two routes, as for Velvet Green.

1. 33m (20) Up past BR to little overlap then up into shallow corner on it's left side. Up line to overlaps at 25m. Do not not touch the huge blocks jammed under the overlap, instead move right (can belay at the rap anchor here but rope-drag would be a problem on next pitch) and through overlap past BR. Easily left to tiny ledge below left edge of headwall.

2. 25m (19) Up into hanging, left-facing corner right of Kestrel for about 6 metres. Cross the right wall of the corner past BR to arete, or move a little higher before moving right. Up arete and over small roof (BR) and continue on water-washed rock to ledge. Up a further 5m to next ledge. The rap anchor for Diving Deep is just to the right if you've previously climbed the top pitch.

3. 30m (16) Take the crack through the overhang and continue more easily up the right-hand option to lower-off just before Flinders Lane. This is the same as for the finish of Skylark. 30m lower-off followed by 55m (or 30m + 25m) abseil.

Three bolts, two bulges and a slab. The middle bulge was climbed many years ago utilising a very dodgy big block (long gone). Up the initial moves on Velvet Green (bolt), to step slightly R to surmount the little bulge. Pull through the second larger bulge (bolt) and continue on up to a third bolt. Tiptoe up the final moves to the bolt anchors (as for Velvet Green).

A good line up the front of the buttress R of Falcon. Up the slippery crack (some find this the crux) to Falcon's ledge at about 8m. Step off this diagonally R past a bolt (shorter folks might find this the crux) then drift back L to a small corner and up slightly R to a juggy finish. Falcon's chains are just around the corner.

Start: Start at thin crack up the front of the buttress, 6m left of Phoenix.

Quite pleasant climbing.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'The Eighth' at nice seams.

1. 12m (19) Climb the seams then move left and belay on the ledge by the old 'Highway' 8 sign. Note that the seams further left have also been climbed.

2. 30m (16) Move left and finish up the arete left of Phoenix (the original finish of Problem Child).

A good pitch. Now has two bolt anchor.

Straight up from GB's anchor for 10m past 1 BR (staple). The lichen is gone but there's not much other gear apart from the bolt. New anchor (2017)

Nice technical climbing on quality rock with good protection. Start on wide ledge, 4m right of Broken Song. Up past 2 bolts, continue up on easier ground to final headwall, trending rightwards up to lower off.

The central line on the upper wall. Start up 'Senior Citizens' or 'The Gentle Touch' and belay on good ledge to left of line.

There's a gnarly old gumtree about 15 metres right of Take Me To Elwood. Climb the smooth streak.

Start below the hole. Up to hole stepping left at this point and up through steep stuff. Wander up to belay as for 'An Alien Cut My Rope'.

Sit start on the jugs, heading straight upwards.

Start as for “the woody”, top out between the branch and the knob.

As for 'Trapeze' until the end of the traverse, then head diagonally up and L to ledge on arete. Keep moving L (above the roof) into Procul.

Climb the slab past 2 bolts to the chains.

Start: The back wall of the grotto is a short slab.

Up chimney then traverse R (pin) to corner. Up this then move R (crux) to finish.

Start: At the chimney at the R end of the grotto.

Head straight up. Maybe move L to rap off Hot Coq's anchor at the top?

Start: 4m R of 'Catch This'

Starts just left of squeaker on thin gear. Tricky left moves into line at about 8m. Go up to John and Betty's rap station.

Start: R of 'John and Betty', and just L of 'Squeaker'.