Routes in Australia for selected grade

Can be used to access 'Golden Oldies' Wall, if you're into that sort of thing.

Start: 5m R of 'Tich' at foot of slab.

The RH diagonal. After the corner, move R through bulge and up to overhang above.

Up groove to bulge. Take the line L of the overhanging nose on massive jugs.

Start: 3m R of LOTRH is a groove.

A short hard layback to L arete (rest). Move back R and up seam.

Start: From L end of ledge at half-height, near orange patch.

Climb straight up the orange wall.

Start: Below middle of orange patch.

Up seam, step L at top into main crack and finish L of wide crack above.

Start: 1m R of crack in centre of outcrop.

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line, marked "NL".

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

Superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day. From the 1978 Lockwood guide: "Necky as anything, committing and sparsely protected." Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.

Shares the start of 'Glory Road', but goes straight up from half-height instead of escaping off left into the mossy ramble.

Start at L end of ledge, up to a couple of large pockets at 3m. Traverse left then boldy up to a horizontal break. From this ledge continue straight up without escaping left.

Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.

Start: On the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

Struggle up black crack, past overhang, then grey corner to ledge on R. Climb wall above to summit, it's possible to traverse off R to rap anchor on 'Chinese Algebra'.

Start: L of blank orange wall is a black crack.

Straight up pocketed corner to flake. Take LH fork through the bulge.

Start: At base of diagonal line uphill from 'Voodoo'.

Half way up 'Wasp' there is a large flake leading right. Follow this to join 'Warped'.

Climb the prominent R-leaning diagonal line to join 'Wurlitzer' below roof. Up to roof, then break L, turn roof and up face.

Start: As for Wasp.

Up to and through overhang. Join original and finish as for that. This is 22 in Lou's guide.

Start: 2m L of original.

Boulder up on slopes and crimpers, till you can traverse L for 4m and into obvious corner (Spider LH Variant).

Start: Start 3m L of 'Spider'.

Start: As for original.

Swing L (hard), up seam to break, finish up SD.

Start: At 'Blockwork Orange'.

Short crack through overlap.

Start: 5m R of BO.

Up prominent crack near gum (L of white streak) to big ledge. Finish over roof.

Start: R of DOV is a gnarly dead gum.

Twin seams up the grey nose.

An attractive line that used to be graded a very tough 17! The right-hand, shallow corner just right of Outlaw Oats. Chains on top.

The chimney to off width corner to thin crack right of OE with a flake on the left wall. Belay at abseil station.

Contrived and poorly protected.

Follow intermittent cracks on wall. Finish up lovely twin orange and black streaked rock through short roof. Goes straight to new abseil anchors at 23 m

Start: Start between 'Hand Job' and Menage A Trois.

Start 1 metre right of 'Rock Soff' and boulder up.

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose of Ciela.

1. 18m (21) Slither up the surprisingly tricky slab to the R side of the nose. Undercling out around the roof and keep gunning up the crack above into the chimney. Belay here or 4m L at the DRB.

2. 33m (17) From the DRB, go straight up the front of the nose, eventually escaping L around the top bulge.

The start shared with Ship Of Fools is not good but things appear to improve after that. They would want to. Start as for Ship Of Fools.

1. 10m (19) Up to roof and move right over it to climb lichenous left-leading grrove just left of Damned Whores.

2. 15m (18) Go up into orange concave and take obvious cracks diagonally up left to stance.

3. 15m (17) Climb the overhangs directly above at their widest point.

Start 2 metres left of Transatlantic Crossing, 10 metres left of Oceanoid.

1. 25m (19) Up slab, not well-protected, through overlap to roof. Undercling this left then up through the orange concave and finish right to belay.

2. 15m (18) Left-hand crack through roof.

Quite good. Originally done in two pitches but belay stances are poor so better done as one. Start 6 metres left of Oceanoid, 2 metres right of Transatlantic Crossing, at short right-slanting orange corner.

You have to squeeze them in. Pretty contrived and has some loose blocks. Start at small rib just right of Voyage Of The Damned.

1. 30m (20) Climb the rib to the diagonal bulge of Voyage Of The Damned. Go straight through bulge and step right to tiny stance. Climb thin flake up slab and move left to belay as for Rainbow Warrior.

2. 15m (20) The overhanging rib on the right as for Rainbow Warrior.

This is a good pitch. It may differ a little from the original route of Halfway Handsome but it is difficult to say by how much. Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of Oceanoid. Can rap back down with a 70m rope.

The left hand corner to the ledge below Aftermath, past some rotten rock and a lot of bird poo. Originally reversed the traverse of Jezebel to get off, but there are rap chains nearby if you prefer.

Traversing similar territory as the excellent Trinity Wall, this route is not as sustained as its neighbour below, but provides similar bowel churning exposure. Start as for Left Side Of The Ocean, and follow this to join Oceanoid P2. A few metres before the chimney of Oceanoid, find the line that traverses right on poor feet. The pitch passes the Aftermath double bolt belay, soon reaching easier territory.

A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. The R rating is from the rock, not the gear. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious. A 5 camalot will be appreciated. Start below the huge cleft.

1. 42m (16) Up vegetated line and belay on the big terrace.

2. 24m (18) Up the overhanging chimney with some doubtful rock.

3. 24m (18) On up the line to below large cracked roof.

4. 15m (20) No, don't walk off left, climb the roof crack. The original finish traversed out the left wall below the roof to the arete.

Don't listen to the haters. The last pitch has great gear and is 20. Bring a 6.

1. (20) Starts under the roof between Prevarication and Hurricane Lamp Cracks and powers straight through it. Move on upward (be aware of loose blocks) to a bolt anchor (45m rappel).

2. (18) Onward through some steep moves and then at the slopey ledge, move slightly right then up the horizontals to a bolt. After moving past the crux trend left towards a bolt anchor (30m rappel to next anchor) under the roof, opposite the tennis court.

3. (14) Move far right under the roof to the big offwidth crack, struggle your way through and then climb the headwall on the left side, moving left after a ledge, then back right to another bolt anchor (25m rappel to anchor under the roof).

Scramble up slab of rock right of Spiral Staircase to steeper rock.

1. 30m (19) Wend way up to short, tricky right-facing corner in middle of face and up to large ledge below prominent orange roof.

2. 25m (19) Up wall just right of roof (shared with NE Ridge Of The Pharos) then step left and straight up poorly protected wall. The pitch can also be finished by trending left.

A superb rising traverse with some very balancy moves which also gives the seconder a good mental workout.

Shares the start and most of pitch one, with 'Lamplighter'.

1. 27m (10) Follow the ramp of "Lamplighter" until it runs out. Up to ledge.

2. 25m (18) Step up right and onto right wall. Mantleshelf then traverse right past a bolt into "Kingdom Come", then up to belay on small ledge.

3. 15m (19) Traverse right, and up the diagonal crack to ledge. It is possible to move up from the traverse to the bolt on "Give me Convenience..." at about the same grade but it adds nothing to the route.

Rap back to ground from DRRB at top of P3.

An old-fashioned line that rewards good technique and punishes thrashing.

Start below the major V-groove splitting the back of the Pharos. Described in 3 pitches but best done in 2 pitches now that there are bolted anchors at 20m and at the top.

1. 12m (20) Hard start on polished slopers (it's advisable to place a wire (#9-10) with a long stick for protection; double check it as the slot is not foolproof) leads into the V-chimney. Bridge up to a small ledge on the right.

2. 22m (18) Step left and up to cave.

3. 18m (13) As for last pitch of Lamplighter.

A good stylish pitch. The initial moves are committing and require lots of small wires. And some of the first holds are loose so check what you're pulling on. Combining this with the upper pitches of "Trojan" makes for a very good grade 21 climb. Start at the top of the huge flake.

Start as for Dazed And Confused then move right and directly up wall past some very loose flakes, finishing up the fine corner-ramp to ledge.

The flake at the left end of the south-east facing wall just above and right of "French Crack"

Flake on the left side of the chimney-gully just right of "I Can't Breathe" continuing straight up where "The Venus Trap" moves off left.

A worthwhile alternative start making Vanoise a more sustained and independent line. Start 3 metres left of the shared crack start with Labouring the Point, below a small V crack. Climb to V crack and follow weaknesses to where Vanoise and Labouring the Point diverge then finish as top of Vanoise.

Really interesting corner on the right side of the smooth orange face. It gets harder as it arches over further to the left to chain under roof. The climb originally continued to top of cliff but it's not worth it so no-one bothers.

Follow buttress all the way, taking crux bulge on right via obvious loose flake.

Start: Between 'Vanoise' and 'Agent Orange'.

Takes the unlikely bulging wall between Agent Orange and West Coast Dogma. Start up wall and thin flake 2m right of AO (had been climbed previously) to join AO at its roof. When AO veers back left, continue straight up from obvious horizontal pocket following an independant line all the way. Gear is adequate. (Another option is to start up AO which makes it about grade 18)

Bold line 3 metres right of 'Duck Crack'. Alternative finish is to diagonal 2 metres right to flake.

Lovely looking wall but start (at least) is reachy. Climb the attractive orange wall 4m to the left of Squirrel. Finish up a short handcrack near the top. Rap anchor: 20m to start of climb, 30m to ground.

Quite good but unbalanced with a bouldery start. Stepped corner right of Bakers' Route, moving left under first roof and up wall.

Steep seam on orange rock. Step L and do the not-quite-direct-but-better-climbing finish. If you want. Don't let us pressure you.

Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)?

Not great gear or climbing.

Arete left of Flights Of Fancy doing first 2 metres left of arete.

Pull into undercut line and up two left-facing corners, then step right and up.

Start: Start around right of Flights Of Fantasy below arete.

Distinguished line in middle of west wall.

Very pumpy and well-protected; take lots of cams including big ones. It used to start up Huey but the walk across the ledge at 5 metres was just silly.

Start: Start 5 metres left of Huey at small corner.

More good face-climbing.

Start as for "Stairway to Hell" to ledge then wander up wherever you find holds, heading out right when faced with the blank bulge near the top. Be mindful of rope drag.

Fairly direct but not the logical line on this wall. From just left of centre go up and right to ledge. Diagonally left along crack, as for Sheer Ecstasy, then go back right up wall on buckets.

Start: Up and behind "Huey" is a small wall with a large cave on the right side.

Climb crack to left end of cave, step left and swing up the wall.

Beware the first hold on the left side of the crack is actually a huge detached block which would do serious damage if it pulled off!

Descent: Back and then scramble down and right past base of MOAFHG.

Full value, sustained climbing.

Follow diagonal, starting out of gully, on left side of buttress. At major break, step right and up thin seam.

Deceptively tricky. Start on the track at the next little face up the hill from Traffic below a diagonal ramp. Up ramp then tiny corner just left of arete. Swing right around arete and up wall. It is also possible to start the climb a metre or two further right and go up to the end of the ramp. The climb has also been started much further right.

Up the centre of the left-hand face on the terrace.

Commemorates an artistic disfiguration. Wall between 'Jack-a-Dandy' and Angel Black. Protection sparse on bottom bit.

Short, steep and well-protected. Nice line just left of 'Drivetime'. At top reach back right to lower-off shared with 'Drivetime'.

Interesting climbing, and a bit of a soft touch for the grade, but gets little attention. Another shady option for a warm day.

Right of Spellbinder and just right of Adios Amigos is a narrow chimney. Just right of this is a left-leading crack.

Take left-leading crack to a rest just right of chimney, below obvious hanging block. The block looks quite dodgy so swing up into crack on right and up right side of the slender buttress until able to move back left and go up, to finish at the top of the chimney on the left. Abseil from large tree (25m)

Unlikely with a committing finish. Take plenty of small wires.

Start as for "Fly By Night".

Bridge up chimney then pull onto wall and follow left-leaning flake just left of Fly By Night.

A good, pumpy route with some suspect rock.

Start on the left wall at the back of the chimney.

Bridge up the chimney (purists may decline to bridge) to start then pull into steep left-leaning groove.

On the wall directly opposite "Fly by Night". Scramble up to the large scoop with the right trending crack. A bouldery move into the scoop. Move up and left, following the edge of the scoop. Traverse right underclinging the top of the scoop before pulling through the lip onto an easy topout. Cross chockstone to "Fly by Night" anchors. Gear is sparse, but adequate and bomber.

A nice climb making its way up the twin cracks right of Fly By Night Gully.

Originally started at Chemistry Class but that is pretty hard. Select guide says to start from a convenient tree just downhill from the entrance to "Fly By Night" gully but this start is hard, poorly protected and accessing it risks erosion to the track. Better to start at the arete on the outside edge of "Fly By Night" gully.

Gain the ledge, then up left-hand crack for a few moves then move into steep right-hand crack and go up.

Start 2 metres right of 'Cyclops' on left side of black cave and go up wall on spaced jugs.

Start as for Moneypenny, step R at 4m up to big horizontal (#3 cam) past 2 bolts to lower off.

A good discovery. Start through bulge 3m R of Moneypenny, trend R to detached block (has been pinned), through bulge past bolt to lower off.

A long, absorbing lead. The top wall - which is the crux - has a loose flake you have to pull on above a small wire that won't keep you off the ledge. Beware! Start on the south arete of the buttress, a metre left of the shallow orange corner of Turquoise. Over bulge and follow weakness up left to ledge. Move right and up corner, crossing Turquoise then straight up middle of right wall, bold to get established, then short hand-crack.

Start up either Turquoise or More of the Same to gain the streak up the middle of the upper wall (between Green Shirt and More of the Same). A good RP 3 protects the moves up to the bolt. Step R under the bolt and climb the tricky gray wall up and slightly R to the top. You can reach back L to a lower-off, which now services Green Shirt, Better Than That, More of the Same and All the Same.

Go further up the chimney than Open Road, bridge up, climb corner and roof on the R wall.

Cutting loose on the jug is suitably exciting as long as it stays put! From bald arete right of Boy's Own, traverse left and cut loose on hollow, flat-topped jug.

Hard to get gear. Steep diagonal crack leading right from base of Hypnosis.

Nice slab and steeper bit R of Changin' Times - toproped only.

This is probably now the first bit of Flesh-Eating Pixies.

The left-hand line up wall directly below 'Slabocide'.

Go up to and around an overhang. From ledge above, finish up 'Future Past'.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Future Past'.

Excellent, steep fun. Solid at the grade with fiddly gear on the crux.

Start on the left edge of the pillar, as for "Yesterday's Rooster".

Gain short hanging corner, fiddle with pro then move right and follow middle of buttress.

Direct start up dodgy rock 2m R of original is actually quite a bit easier. Just toproped, I'll put 2 bolts in it, or feel free to put them in yourself, I don't mind!

Avoidable but good - small groove with an odd fin down from Parsley etc. Doesn't look overprotected.

Line 1 metre left of 'Parsley'.

Left arete of major buttress. Lost In The Ozone takes the right arete. Wouldn't be too bad with a bit of traffic.

Start up shallow corner-flake and up, keeping just right of arete. The crux section is avoidable.

Slabby start to jugs

At left end of low cave, line leads to small roof. Up right to finishing groove.

Aesthetic thin crack 3 metres right of 'Scuttlebutt'.

Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest.

Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit.

Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam.

Nice pitch high on the face.

Not a bad start. Reasonable, if fiddly gear.

Start as for 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun'. Where 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun' traverses right, continue straight up. Belay on ledge between 'Antigone' and 'Sundance'. Either rappel from bolt anchors or continue up one of the other climbs off this ledge.

The best way to start Sunset Strait and a worthy pitch in its own right. Starts as for Wall of the Afternoon Sun. Up the easy stuff, then step up and R on to the red streak. Past the bolt and up to stand on the big holds. Move up L to the bolt on Wall of the Afternoon Sun (if joining Sunset Strait) or disregard moving up L to the bolt and instead step up and R to eventually join the last section of the first pitch of Wall of the Afternoon Sun. After its second bolt move across R and up to the ring anchors above Red Sky at Night.

A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch.

Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).

1. 40m (19) Up the slab to the crack and good gear and a funky mantle to bolt (2nd bolt spins in the hole but can be backed up with a pink Camp tricam). Step right (pocket, small profile cam or tricam) and slabby moves lead to more good climbing and another bolt and on to ledge and belay bolt.

2. 27m (17) Move right to the prominent nose, bridge past its left side and up to ledge. Move 6 metres right to belay below tiny, right-facing corner.

3. 22m (17 R) Up the little corner with marginal gear until it fades and continue boldly up wall. Technical bulge leads to 'Rotten Row'.

4. 48m (14) Up easy flake behind conifer then steeply up to horizontal break at 20 metres. Short left-leading corner then veer left and up.