Routes in Australia for selected grade

sit start on good holds and climb the arête left of axe to grind

Start as for Arm and a Leg and climb straight up the juggy seam.

Up the off-width crack 3m right of American Dream starting deep in the crack.

Sit start with opposing holds on the blocky arete.

Prefect splitter.

Start on the crescent slot 2m right of Pump Action. Pull up to the pocket and top out.

You either love it or hate it.

Start: Climbs the blank face right of 'Guernica' with several BR's.

Start 5m left of Jurassic Park at RB. Follow faint grey water streak past second RB. Passing 3 FHs Streak turns black near top. Rap-anchor on ledge

Finger/hand crack 7m left of Close To The Bone. When the crack finishes, traverse right quite a way (toward Close To The Bone) before tackling a short wall above to a ledge then eventually join Close To The Bone to the top.

A good looking problem taking the central feature up the wall just right of the start to 'Innocence'. Sit-start.

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

Sit-start at the base of the hanging arete right of 'The Nevin Rule'. Follow the line up to a good jug via quite a hard 1st and 2nd move off a slopey pinch and a gaston crimp.

Might deserve a star. Start in the cave as for Our House.

1. 15m (17) Traverse right and up to roofline. Step down to bottomless slab, then up and swing right to belay in cave above the overhanging scooped arete.

2. 7m (20) Head towards Horsham on the excellent intermittant flakes (#3.5 and #0.5 cams useful) and up to top.

The crux pitch is a gem. The rest is very average. Best to skip the first two pitches and walk in via 'Hamster Roof'.

Start: Starts 6m left of the tourist track. The shallow orange corner with a gum tree growing out at 2m.

1. 10m (21) Up the shallow blocky corner to step left.

2. 20m (21) The short diagonal crack which tends left to meet the easier rightward leaning line, and so to a ledge.

3. 15m (21) Crux. Walk 5m left to the large 35 degree overhanging right facing corner. Up this with difficulty, then step right at top onto juggy grey wall and onwards to ledge. Scramble off to the left to exit.

Start: Starts 2m right of the top pitch of 'Firepower', which is 10m left of 'Hamster Roof'.

1. 15m (21) Up the crazily overhanging flake and beyond to the terrace.

2. 15m (21) Wander up right easily.

Starts 5m left of 'Mujahideen' at a left leaning corner.

1. 15m (21) Left and up the corner to the crack and overhang at 5m. Move left on the ledge then up on a good slope to a few steep juggy moves up and right to an inverted V corner and big ledge.

2. 20m (21) Up closed corner, left-ward under the overhang then left and then left and up to join 'Mujahideen' near top of its second pitch. Finish as for that climb.

Start: Starts at the little grey undercut corner a little way left of 'Mujahideen'.

1. 20m (20) Up, then tend left taking the line of least resistance to the big ledge.

2. 10m (20) Crux. Take the twin face cracks on the rightward facing wall (left of the impressive blank corner). Move around left and up to big ledge.

3. 15m (15) Traverse easily left to the prominent line. Up this.

Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good.

Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.

1. 20m (20) Squeeze up behind the huge flake for 5m to ledge. Now layback the wide crack past a rusty BR and then easy but absorbing climbing to a spacious ledge. Some tiny SLCD are useful to protect the moves up to the bolt.

2. 24m (20) Step up from the large boulder and traverse left to the prominent right leaning corner. Station a battalion to take care of dissenters, then push on to the top to plant the flag. A great pitch on perfect orange rock. Seeps in winter.

Start off the ledge with a hard move to the pocket (if you're tall enough you can probably reach the pocket from the ledge): continue. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb.

Start: On the right of the gully a round boulder sits on a ledge 2m off the ground. Opposite the boulder is an overhanging line formed by an 'obvious' pocket, flake and crack through the bulge.

Very good technical gritstone-like climbing.

Start: The central line on this wall.

Head up to the cave, then straight up sandy crimpers past a dubious fixed thread. Run-out by all reports.

Start: Start as for 'Golden Showers' just left of the arete.

A novelty classic up an exposed prow.

Start: Start just left of the overhanging arete on the right side of the Echo's block, which is downhill and 15m left from 'Rip Tide'. A faint painted 'cave' sign is visible at the start.

A shorter version of the previous problem, eliminating the low start.

Scary and mossy.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Far Left'.

The first ascentists on this route should be warning enough!

Start: Start towards the left end of the wall.

The curving flake behind Fremlimo. A technical little number.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Ochre Express'.

Scene of a mild bolt war when Nyrie Dodd retro-bolted this all trad route in 1990. The Nati crew (Steve Monks, HB et al) stormed the cliff in 1992 and removed the offending iron mongery and peace returned to the land.

Starts 3m right of 'Curvaceous' on the right side of the 'Red Wall'.

Sit start at back of the cave and climb left around the to finish as for two sleeps

Problem right of 'The Tunnel' just left of the arete.

Stand start then work your way up the vertical crack.

2001 was a glorious time to work in the postal service. FHs up wall 3m left of 'Twisted Horizons'. Just an average filler route. Be careful of loose rock.

Big features and good exposure. Starts a couple of metres left of small gumtree on ledge about 5m left of 'Wired'.

Great climbing, and deservedly popular. Starts 0.5m L of little tree.

Drought conditions only! And take brackets for the bolts. The black gritty water streak 3m left of Koalasquasty. Medium wires protect the moves to the first BR, then layaway and stem up the subtle line past another two BRs. #1 SLCD in horizontal for finish move onto belay ledge. Rap off chain.

Major left facing black corner protected by spaced small wires. Start on the far right side of ledge below landmark corner. The first half is an excellent grade 17 to the ledge (rap chain). The second half is sustained and scary. Has been led as a two pitch route.

A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish.

The original route on the wall and probably the best. Featured steep wall climbing. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. A mix of ubolts and fixed hangers.

U-bolts up the blank slab just right of the jugs of Strong Social Conscience. Follow bolts up the slab to arête, trying to avoid going too far left into the chasm. A hard move at top of arête leads up the wall above. Finish at double U-bolt anchor.

Starts on low arete 3m left of PJ. Moves left across face following 6FH's. Move left at 5FH where the slab blanks out, then up. A tad engaging.

Pumpy and a touch contrived at one point. Starts as Puddlejugs. Up for 7m to the exposed ledge on the arete (bring some trad if you want pro up to here). Clip high FH and thug up steep jugs on right side of arete and then onto the arete proper.

The right leading line of u-bolts leading to Revenge of the Chickens anchor.

Climb Left of the bolts at the 1st and 2nd bolt. Traverse right when your hands are level with 3rd bolt (essentially the lowest possible traverse line).

Warning : if you choose to climb up high then traverse right (the higher traverse line) you may not be able to clip the 3rd bolt, as this bolt will be positioned below your feet. At this point you are facing a ground fall.

Controversial bolted corner crack, with plenty of suss rock. Not a bad warm-up but far from a classic.

Start: Rusty-coloured corner 20m left of base of Pocketed Wall and 10m right of 'Murder Psalm'. Scramble up to a DBB at base of corner.

Up off-width groove 2m right of 'Physical Graffiti' and swing right to ledge. Diagonally up wall to elegant flake. Up.

Bails around the crux of 'Suicidal Tendencies' via a nice hand crack. Originally graded 23! The crux is the first few moves on 'Body Count'. Linking this into 'Happiness in Magazines' pitch 2 is one of the best warm-ups at this whole crag (provided you bring a number of long slings to reduce rope drag). Bring a #1 BD Cam to protect the start to the first bolt if you want.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

First pitch is sustained quality at about 16. However, the second pitch is 20+ depending on your height (can be bypassed). Start at the grey arete immediately right of the 'hole' in the cliff. 1) 30m. Straight up to large ledge below overhangs. 2) 10m. Lunge or boulder straight up to jugs on lip of roof and continue to top.

The RH crack above, and to the L of Mandela. Good holds on deceptively steep face.

Start behind (now burnt) pine trees at the far L end of the 3rd tier (at the head of a minor gully). Up R to a blunt arete and past a bolt to the top.

The line of RBs to the left of the big block on the main face. Up and right to big flake. Powerful move over flake and straight up. Finishing the route using the right-hand juggy arete makes it a consistent 21 while the intended direct finish might be 22.

Looks totally worthless, but has an intense section of climbing that's much better than it looks. Up easy ramp just L of chimney, awkward moves around roof into thin slanting crack, which is followed to easier ground. Quite independent of KOFTSW until the last 10m or so.

This is the L curving crack in the orange wall 3m L of the corner / chimney line. Follow the line to the ridge.

This climb is to the R of the previous climb and around the arete. Ascend via the diagonal seam. Rings are almost certainly retrobolts, and climb a more direct and slightly harder line (original trad line moves R at 2/3rds height) No anchor (walk off R).

Starts on the RH end of the block that forms the top half of Septic Crank. Up arete, past a bolt runner to the top.

On the East facing block just above and R of SC. Can also be approached from the top of the gully of the 3 Tiers. The slanting crack up the middle of the wall.

At undercut rounded northwest arête, on the terrace.

Start up undercut right leading crack, pull around onto face and up to ledge, over bulge (crux) to jugs and lower off

Start 2 metres right of The NEW Style, up wall to below bulge, step up and right over bulge (crux) to stance below headwall, up to lower off

Up the central grey weakness moving slightly right near the top of the orange rock

Start: The grey line 10m left of the corner of 'Furry around the Edges'

Yuk.

Good climbing up a flake line with a touch of boldness - especially getting to the first bolt.

Start: Starts around 5m from the left side of the main wall below two RBs. First ascent was done by the guy sadly lost his life on the first solo kayak journey across the Tasman.

no idea about this one as no-one I know has repeated it. Looks old school

Start: Starts 15m right of CROMAGNON MAN at the base of the layback crack to the left of the overhanging off-width.

Consistently steep, fun climbing. 2m right of The Penguin. Steeply up right past bolts to better holds on big flake. directly up to anchors.

More good fun gymnastic climbing. Starts as for "Holy Batmania" Straight up where Holy Batmania goes right. Long move to good hold on lip of small roof, pull through, up a move or two then traverse right to belay station.

Very steep well-protected fun 4m right of 'Holy Batmania'. Straight up the headwall passing a bolt, then diagionally up and left on small ledge (very steep) to rap chains. 6 bolts plus chains.

Steep sport that might still have a loose hold or two after a lot of cleaning.

Start: The furthest line on the right hand side of the cliff near a black streak (about 15m right of "The Joker"). about 6 or so FH lead up, traversing left at about half height, then steeply up on good jugs to chain rappel. There have been some comments that the chains are not quite long enough and need extending so watch your rope and abseil, don't get lowered off.

More steep sport! Reachy, powerful. According to the Inca mythology, Inti was the sun god, as well a patron deity of Tahuantinsuyu. His exact origin is not known. The most common story says he is the son of Viracocha, the god of civilization.

Start: Starts as for "Tumi" and head straight up after Tumi's 1st bolt past 4 more to separate rap station. Tricky clip on 3rd bolt.

Good steep sports fun. Sharp flake at the top. (Tumi is an Incan name for a sharp ceremonial golden knife)

Start: Just left of the middle of the wall is a thin rib/flake starting about half height.

The great line of the crag. It’s the major V corner referred to in the access notes in the guide.

1. 25m (crux) Up corner to ceiling then traverse right to arête.

2. 12m Arête

Steep exciting climbing with two cruxes. Overhanging seam 10m right of La Belle Époque and just left of the right arête of the main buttress of the cliff, then veer up left to overhangs. Exit up left through these via alcove. There is loose rock on the exit.

One of the major lines of the cliff. Sustained climbing on excellent rock. Starts 400m left of the creek at good looking clean corner.

1. 18m (21) The corner to the small roof, left around this and onto the ledge.

2. 30m (21) Move the belay 3m right to below the continuation of the corner. Through the roof (bolt) and up the corner to the top.

Reverse lowest break from right to join 'Godel Traverse' and continue left. Optional extra : go back along 'Godel Traverse'.

Follow the main track for about 5-600m past 'Gale Force' until about 30-50 metres past the creek. Takes left-hand side of prominent. 5 FH and1ring (sticking way out), lead right through steep moves until you reach the easier face above (lots of natural pro). DBB/rings lower off Approx 25m to ground.

Start: Shares the start of 'He who walks through shallow water' until #9 nut, then traverses left past steep thin moves past 3rd FH into scoop. Up and left out of this to easier ground and DBB. Move right on large ledge to Abseil station. Not as sustained as 'He who walks through shallow water'

Good fun steep wall climbing.

Start: Start approximately 200m left of Strutting Through The Stratosphere and about 150m left of the big roof that marks the aid route Hard Day's Night at an attractive looking orange & black wall above a white arrow on the walking track.

10m left of HDN, not the world's best route but a filler at the end of the day. A few bolts, rps and big cam.

Start immediately right of 'Entree Direct Start', marked with a square 2m up. use tree to gain face via tricky move then up wall above

Be warned that pitch 2 has a very long (25m) runout and a dodgy piton runner has to be placed on lead on the crux pitch. Start at the left of two flake-lines about 15 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.

1. 15m (20) Flake and slab past a carrot bolt (located a few metres left of arete) to ledge and carrot bolt.

2. 42m (17) Up left from belay for about 8 metres, past carrot bolt at 4 metres then traverse right to below the prominent left-hand crack. Up crack and traverse right to belay behind big detached flake.

3. 28m (21) Traverse back left to base of left-hand crack. Up this (peg runner needed but not in place. FA hand-placed and tied-off a long-dong nut tool), passing the bulge above on its left side. Up face next to arete to roof, step left around arete to belay on the ledge above the corner.

4. 12m Finish as for 'Nostalgia'

One of the plum pitches of the crag and a real corker of a line.

Start: About 300m right of the 'Epaminondas Buttress' is a prominent, seductive face crack perched above a cracked slab. Fortunately, though the relentlessly overhanging crack is wide, there are holds aplenty.

1. 25m (21) The cracked slab.

2. 25m (21) You won't get lost.

The original description was written up six years after the climb was done, so is a tad vague. Head up diagonally left along a narrow ramp at the lip of the retaining wall of a sickle feature. Roughly follow the sickle feature up the walls (which are hard to protect) until it’s possible to move up right on a large vegetated ramp.

Approximately 100m right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is a large boulder. It has a thin diagonal crack and one end is shaped like an egg. “Iron cross” into the diagonal line then head up the diagonal crack for 6m to a horizontal break. Hand traverse left to a stance and then follow the thin seams up the slab (RPs).

Start 50m to the right of Gariwerd Dreaming. Climb up 2m to an undercut wall then step onto the natural cairn feature and breach the bulge. Climb the wall on pockets until they become slopes then move right and up to a rest. Head up the overhanging crack-line left of the corner and then up a groove in the wall above. Continue up until the groove peters out and move right to a left-trending crack system that leads to the top.

Climb up 3m right of Perfumed Garden. Follow the seam on the left to the top.