Routes in Australia for selected grade

Up the middle of the wall.

Looks very good but take note of the belay and descent situation at the top. Start below the right-hand of the two pinnacles at the left end of main section of cliff at two seams up a blunt arete. This is 70 metres down right of 'The Flagellator'.

1. 20m Right-hand seam to ledge and go right to foot of attractive, right-facing corner. Up this sustained corner.

2. 20m Up from right end of ledge. Step left and pass left end of overlap. Veer right up wall towards prow, then up to top of pinnacle. No belay. Abseil.

Exiting climbing up exposed line.

Start: Starts near the middle of the cliff just right of where it changes aspect slightly below big orange corner high up.

1. 30m (21) Right facing corner from small ledge just off the ground then easier to ledge.

2. 40m (23) Easy to foot of corner. Corner (some poor rock) then arete.

A weird arete with weird moves. Sit-start left hand on rear left arete and right hand gaston. Get the pinch, slap up, and rock back leftward to finish.

Sit start on the low diagonal crack in the middle of the northwest face. Straight up finishing right of the moss.

Starts as for Railon but traverse left to finish as for Swarm up.

Stand-start. Climb the left arete of the west face (just left of Pray). Can be done as a sit-start off two sidepull crimps at about V4/5.

Right arete of west face. Jump start to jug then finish up the grey face above

Sit start on the right arete. Layback on slopers to jump for last hold on left face.

Sit start low (hands off the jugs) on the right prow. Climb the prow.

The left arete. Stand start on opposing side-pulls past a pinch to top out.

Project 39. Stand start on small holds above head height. Move up and right via good slopers. Then look up and see the reason for the name...

Thin route just right of the block on the ground. Stand start on matching crimps and move up to high top out.

From a stand start with left pocket and right crimp. Throw to the right arete

Stand start just right of the crack on the jug, big move up to a poor edge and throw for the jug.

Climb the face 2 metres right of the arete.

Up past a bolt (crux) to easier ground.

Start: The major line equidistant from 'Grim Reaper' and Thunderbirds Are Go!

A worthwhile climb taking the curving flake/corner.

Start: 3m left of 'Grim Reaper'. From the small ledge, use the bolt for aid and climb the thin crack.

As for DTD, instead move left and up at the overlap near the top.

Crack that splits the grey and orange walls.

Takes the line up the middle of the buttress.

Gain the crack in the middle of the wall, before stepping left to a poor stance before the rooflet. Steep moves past jugs and flakes lead to small stance, after which a few tough moves take you to the lower off.

Good fun with two bouldery cruxes. Effectively a sport climb with a little trad to get you to the top once the difficulties are over (A medium cam for the obvious horizontal and a small wire after that). Start as for Gambolling Lambs, then move left to shallow corner. At the third bolt step left onto the face and up on thin holds to the major break, then more easily to the top.

Super balancy, delicate climbing up the middle of the dimpled wall to the left of Spare Rib. Start just to the left of big tree, 3m left of Spare Rib. Stick clip the first bolt to protect the starting move. Strenuous and balancy pull onto the wall, then up to the shallow pocket. Step right to find some shallow edges, then back left and up. At the fifth bolt, step left onto the face to finish.

Straight up the sustained main wall between Spare Rib and Udder Shudder. Established with "minimal pro" and with no known repeats, the FA agreed to a retrobolt to make this sane. Probably a grade easier without the threat of death. Start 3m left of Udder Shudder. Up the face with RPs to start (or very high stick clip) to meet up with crack in the final headwall.

Pastoral Poetry. Elegant climbing up the rounded arete to the right of Skirt Alert finishing up the crack in the headwall. Start 3m right of Skirt Alert. Pull onto the first bulge and step left to gain the small pea-pod. At the top of this step right onto the face, reaching over the bulge to gain the bolt. A hard move gets you to the good horizontal, then continue up the thin seam/crack directly above with some good edges and finger locks.

Start as for The Sky is Crying, climb this past its first bolt before a move L to a jug on the arete. Boulder some feisty moves up the arete to the top.

Seam just R of the arete opposite Silvertop.

Up 'Beelzebub' until holds right past 'Wilbur'. Until bulge, then reach high for hold. Then left at 23 or right at 22. Then past bolt on 'Wilbur'. Then tends right to top.

Start as for Mr Ed but head straight up.

Start 2m R of original start then up.

Start up the slab and vague corner to the bulge, almost into Happy Jack, before moving steeply L to the arete. Follow this to the top and loweroff.

The line of fixed hangers 1.5m right of Happy Jack.

Originally involved clipping the second bolt of 'Total Recoil (Direct)', stepping right into Purple Haze to the sloping ramp, then back with difficulty to the third bolt of 'Total Recoil (Direct)' to finish as for that route.

These days most people only clip the first bolt of 'Total Recoil (Direct)' and finish up Purple Haze on trad... which still gets 24 for the start.

Seam 5m R of CSTW past 2 bolts. Step L and follow crack L of obvious corner (which has been climbed at grade 17).

Up slabby shallow groove 10m R of the Flying Buttress detached pillar. Finish steeply up and slightly R.

Rebolted Safer Cliffs with FAs consultation.

Up KY Valley step L and directly up the wall to the same lower off as Mr Splat.

Original route steps R and up crack to the top.

Start 3m R of Mr Splat. Climb past 4 bolts and finish up crack on R. Up this to lower off on the L.

Rebolted Safer Cliffs with FAs consultation.

Finger-crack in middle of best section of wall, 25 m right of Road Runner.

Bulging line 10 metres left of 'The Liquidator'

Fun steep sport

Start: Starts 1m left of 'Thunderball' at corner. (This is about 5-7m left of Falkenhorst, which has an unusual reverse "S" marked in the rock at waist height). There are some old bolts at chest height between these routes which was the old bivvy.

Another classic. Sustained. Wall left of Love At First Bight (two BRs). Hard step right to BR on Love at First Bight. Veer up left.

Good face-climbing. From 1m right of Icy Red (Featherwedge Wall), up (two BRs). Right and up crack until it ends. Face, then bulge (BR). Finish just right of major crack.

A direct start to NDW. 3 new bolts, then joins NDW at it's 5th bolt.

This independent route climbs the stunning steepness of the Barista Buttress. Pumpy! Starts 3m right of the closed project, Birthday Barista. Climb the sustained face past 4 FHs and then move left to a stance in Birthday Barista (U-bolt). Traverse left (FH) with good feet to the arête and establish yourself on the steep prow. Finish past 4 more FHs and one U-bolt.

Climbs the first 3 bolts of Birthday Barrista, then directly up the technical face past 3 FH's. At this point join the finish of DSE past 4FH's and a RB.

THIS IS STILL A CLOSED PROJECT. Take 16 quickdraws. Steep side pulling underclinging goodness. Sustained and wonderful.

Start: Starts around 30m below and right of "Thor" at a prominent crack just left of the steep blunt orange arete.(about 10-15m down and left of "The Perfect Extraction")

Great quality sustained and interesting. Some steep face climbing. A few small loose bits will probably come off in time, but will clean up with a little traffic to be fantastic.

Start: Starts about 5m right of 'Gulgurn Manja'.

Sustained and slinky. Great fun, consistently excellent climbing.

Start: Starts up the steep dark grey slab about 5m right of Jardawadjali (just left of the water streak)

Sustained and thin. Very good.

Technical climbing 1.5m left of Tangent. Climbs the thin face past 5 FHs.

Straight up the steepest section of this wall through two bulges. Starts at the ake 3m right of Back in Black (and 1m right of Treaty.) Balance across right into the line at the rst FH and then climb directly up the line through two bulges. Nice compression moves on immaculate rock at the top. Once you gain the small ledge system, climb easily up and left to the rst FH on Free Passage and traverse left to the rap anchors above Back in Black P1. (8 bolts)

Climb the slabby rib 3m to the right of 'Murinbungo'.

Start as for 'Morgana'. After the first bolt step into the peapod then onwards up the slabby wall.

Start: Superb clean wall between 'Quinkan' and 'Bunjil'. Seriously low on good gear however.

Very shagadelic baby, yeah! Climb Rainbow Serpent up to just under the roof then traverse left. Blast through the inviting looking roof crack then continue slightly left and up slab to join back into Rainbow Serpent at ledge. Clip a few bolts to gain Rainbow Serpent loweroffs. 14 Draws and a single rack should get you to the chains.

Starts about 4-5m left of Rainbow Serpent on the left side of an orange scoop.

P1 (35m, 23): Move left past first bolt onto front of the buttress then up past another bolt to easier ground. Up to the roof and follow the line awkwardly around the left edge. Belay in the line at a reasonable ledge.

P2 (30m, 17): The crack up centre of the buttress, as for Morning Glory.

Up steep scoops, across and up to tricky arete then finishing up crack.

Straight up centre of face, below RB, 2m left of 'Old English'. Take a few RPs. One RB at start, to rap off DRBs on the ledge. Doubled 50m rope reaches the ground.

Same start as Leather Bound Pound, though head left through sloping jug feature and finish up crack with good holds.

3 burly moves to a interesting top out. Start with an undercling next to the giant flake and a RH on sloper, slap and squeeze your way up the arete. Great fun. (Boulder is located right on the walking track approx 200 metres into the trail)

Start between Rougues etc and Six on the Stick, straight up line taking third bolt of Rising Tide and last bolt of Rougues etc...nice!!

Start in chasm just left of bolted crack on right side of crag. Bridge across from rock fin (careful of average rock at start), cruise up wall on great jugs to stance, drop the clutch and straight up wall on small holds to lower off

Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's Theory to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimedes' Principle, finishing as for that route.

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches

On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt.

Grey seam on Upper Tier

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point

The spectacular right arete.

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts.

Maybe 25? Undercut start as for Pump Action and 3 Minute Rule, up left leading shallow corner to undercling traverse (crux) and into Me and My Gun, up this to lower off. Use long draws on second and third bolts and first bolt of Me and My Gun (at end of traverse)

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

Leftmost of the good pocketed routes. Easy pocketed start to left slanting weakness, then fingery crux up grey wall.

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

Now completely superseded.

Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove.

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. I think it is general consensus that this is not 24. If you want a 24 version of this climb you have to climb, as the FA, 'the convulted crux out left at mid height while ignoring the obvious line'...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and technical wall with an exposed finish. Start at the base of ramp a little left of Gibber. Stem shallow corner to BR and pockets. Up past 2nd BR and more pockets to horizontal line. Right leading flake passed 3 FH's gains face just left of arête. Up superb face with small wires and cams before arête can be gained. Finish up arête.

2m right of LBL,

1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off