Routes in Australia for selected grade

"I'm sure Chris and Glenn have plenty to confess! A fiery number up an unlikely and poorly protected line. Follow the crack which becomes a gnarly closed seam 8m left of "The Jury Box" (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Not long after the first ascent of this route, Mark wrote a thought provoking article called, 'Life and Death: a Climbers Guide.' It was especially poignant as it was written just prior to his death on Makalu in the Himalaya. This route however isn't quite in the same league as his other creations. Start on the arete immediately right of The Jury Box. Up and across to the bolt, then move back left and finish straight up the arete." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Start on blunt arête just R of Jury Box (just near an active beehive at ground level - as of May 2020). Follow the 4 FH, after 4th FH stay R of arête on face for full value to a red/yellow BD C3 SLCD prior to topping out.

"An entertaining problem that tackles the bulging wall between Zuma and Prosecutor. Scoot into the final hand-crack of Prosecutor to finish." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Blunt arête past 2 FHs to half height then traverse way L into Prosecutor to finish.

Start is 2m left of Decree Nisi. Up short crack to bulge onto bolt. Easier face climbing above.

Start up CL head 3m right at ledge to 1st SS glue in carrot. Straight up past 2 more SS glue in carrots to DRB lower off.

Starts just right of RAaB. Very good technical face climbing past 5 bolts to lower off. Two reachy cruxes separated by moderate climbing. Will be harder for the vertically challenged

Start a few metres left of Objection Sustained. Up through a small overhang, then the loose line to the cave. Push through last overhang and up to the top.

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

To protect rock art, it is requested that the first pitch of this route not be climbed. The second pitch can still be climbed (easily traverse in from 'Malicious Intent'), and the description from the 2001 Grampians Guidebook remains accurate: "Up the bulging arete past a really shitty bolt up high". 2 carrots.

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

Stick-clip first bolt. In its upper half this route follows the left side of a large pod/cave feature, and the crux is pulling out of the top cave.

Start a few metres right of Legal Aid and chin out to the bolt. Around and up easily to a ledge and another bolt. Up into the scoop, then move back right to clip a new ringbolt, then onto the slab passing another bolt. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009).

An easier finish is to mantle out of the upper cave early, to clip the bolt on "The Hanging Slab" (about grade 23).

There is another route that goes up the right side of the large pod, passing a historical mish-mash of fixed gear. It seems that little is known about this route.

Thin seams on left wall of Subpeona with just enough gear. By the time you get to the guano soaked holds, you will be wishing that someone had scrubbed them clean for you first. After the guano, step right to finish up 'Subpoena'.

Wall right of Subpeona. Re-bolted by Glenn Aug 2014. Now 4 RB's & DUB lower off. Lower off is easily accessible from the top.

Tackles the attractive wall about ten metres right of The Enquiry. Up the left line with some intricate climbing past a bolt. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

This climb tackles the smooth steep wall starting 3 metres right of The Dock. Up the flake then onwards past two bolts to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Up Itchy Fingers to the first bolt and then move right almost to the arête. Finish quickly on improving holds. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Bolted, 1 cam required to protect juggy top section.

Crack between Free Snaking Through The Eight Dimension and The Unknown Soldier.

Seam, then buttress 4m right of Hygarfefoapp to chain.

Big grit arete that has been retrobolted into a more popular route. The original climb had four less bolts! Start on high slabby platform on right edge of the Ogive cave. Belayer should belay from ground. Place a cam in a break then swing left off the platform onto arete. Up it past 3 RBs to slabby seam crack on left side of arete. Up this (trad) then swing through steepness above (two RBs + cams) to lower-off anchor. Classic!

Crack across wall right of P. Up wall to crack then into K.

Wall right of FL past 2RB into K. There is now a lower off.

Rebolted with ringbolts 2015 + 1FH to start.

The arete with a few bolts left of Narcotic

This is the obvious extension to Lunging for Melons, linking Lunging for Melons into Blimp Left Wall. Continue past the anchor of LFM past 3 more ring bolts to the Blimp anchor.

Stick-clip the first ring-bolt from the base of Blimp. Step onto the L wall. At the sixth bolt there is a tricky reach L to gain a poor knob. Continue straight up the technical wall above passing another two bolts to Blimp's lower-off anchor.

Starts up corner then break into unlikely double huecos. Finishes up little arête 5m right of bliss. Recommend stick clipping 1st bolt.

Straight up above first part of Blanketty Blank. Thin!

1. (23) Climb the buttress left of Minch. Starts up groove / fused crack on LHS of the buttress and takes rising traverse right on slopes after 15m. Pull on to the slab and belay at the level of Flying Circus traverse. 2. (22) Up the slab and pass an overhang following thin crack on the right. Continue up and join Minch for final 5m of that climb.

Corner in middle of wall right of Gerontian then escape right by reversing Odysseus below old bolts.

Continue up wall above the corner past 2 bolts to cracked overhang

Starts off the ledge at the end of the 2nd pitch of Scarab and makes a good second pitch to Ruined Castles. Start on Arete and head up to the roof past 4 ring bolts past some tricky moves. Then jug out the roof with some big moves where it joins Flying High past fixed hangers. Great position. Back clean to last ring bolt or bring your 2nd up you will need gear for an anchor.

Continues up corner and out right.

Now a really long single pitch, mostly on bolts. Bring a handful of medium wires for the top section. Up easy bolted face left of Island Cruise to large blocks just left of ledge. The angle kicks back into steep jugs then tough move over final roof and finish up easier wall on trad to lower-off bolts. 70m rope will just make it back to the ground.

BR 2m left of PYP then right into PYP

Mostly easy climbing on good rock with two short bouldery sections on pitch two. Originally heavily aided on all pitches in wet conditions and not finished in daylight. Some parties have descended by a 50m abseil from the old bolt at the top of pitch two but this is not advisable.

Start: About 30m left of 'Dinosaur Gully' (faded initials ONS) at a weakness below an overhang.

1. 30m (13) Up a little and traverse right into corner. Up to major break and traverse left onto ledge.

2. 24m (23) Boulder thin seam off ledge then up easier ground for a ways to another hard section (old bolts and pegs) then easy to stance and old bolt.

3. 50m (14) Climb the groove above then move up to base of pinnacle. Up the right side of the pinnacle and up to terrace (as for DG).

This route started life as an aid route and covers some interesting territory. Unfortunately the first pitch is very dirty. It was cleaned for the free ascent but a soak at the top of the pitch means that it gets dirty very quickly. Also, the section shared with 'Dinosaur Gully' detracts somewhat. The star is for the climb in a clean state.

1. 21m (21) Climb twin cracks and traverse to corner on right. Up corner, exit left to bolt belay.

2. 28m (20) Step right around overhang and up to second one. Left and up wall to ceiling. Traverse left and up (dangerous loose flake) then up to next roof. Left to arete. Up to second belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.

3. 24m (15) As for 'Dinosaur Gully' pitch 3.

4. 30m (23) Thin crack up and right from middle of ledge to corner. Corner to terrace.

Awesome line and climbing. Not many grade 22 leaders flash this so it's bumped up to 23.

Start: Start below the fantastic corner left of 'The Stinger', 6 metres left of the clear initials CC. Faint initials LA.

1. 20m (18) Corner to stance in chimney

2. 25m (23) Corner to roof, then left to hand traverse past peg to ledge. There is a hollow sounding block on the traverse to ensure you don't find it all a bit boring. An alternative pitch, if you are tired of life, is to launch out left at 3m, go 8m diagonally left and then straight up to the belay.

3. 25m (20) Chimney then corner. Around roof to ledge, DRBB (? 50-60m rap to ground).

4. 30m (-) Move 6m left and up corner. Alternatively, and much easier, climb the wall directly above the belay, to another DRBB.

Kim Carrigan, Andrew Thomson 10-12-1974.

A great first pitch up the corner but then the climbing eases dramatically and deteriorates in the second half of the climb.

Start: Below the huge corner on the left side of the smooth wall, just right of the large overhang. Clear initials BB.

1. 27m (24) The corner, exiting on left wall

2. 30m (17) Continue up the line passing first overhang on right.

3. 18m (-) Left and up to terrace

4. 21m (10) 6m up flake, step left, up to scrub, right to corner.

5. 33m (10) Up, veering right

An attractive seam up a smooth wall to an overhang still has one or two aids on the overhang and should go free to a tall climber. However, as usual the climbing eases off dramatically after the first thirty or forty metres.

The aspiring aid climber can view the bathook holes at the start and salivate. Bear in mind that the carrot bolt runners are aid, not protection, bolts

Start: Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.

1. 21m (23 M0) The seam past the odd carrot. Use one or two of the bolts in the roof for aid and then continue up to bolt anchor

2. 27m (-) Up.

3. 22m (-) Crawl right to bushy line, up to terrace (apparently Steve Monks straightened this out a bit). Now up left.

4. 30m (-) Groove, shallow corner. Step left and up slightly right to below yellow corner.

5. 20m (-) Corner, poor rock. Exit right around overhang.

An adventurous route with an unlikely crux that's a few grades harder than the rest of the climb, and a fantastically exposed hand traverse high on the cliff.

Start: Start about 50 metres left of where the walking track does its final left turn, just left of the big burnt tree that marks the start of Martin of Eden.

1. 48m (18) Awkward start up indistinct mossy crack and continue up to step left at 17 metres to grey crack. Up this to belay on ledge.

2. 30m (23) Wander up to the ledge (belay possible) 2 metres right of big corner (Bus Stop). Climb large triangular block, followed by steep moves to gain the corner above. Up a couple of tricky moves then traverse right and go up to ledge. (If you're so minded, skip the crux by aiding the hideous roof crack instead).

3. 9m (19) Instead of continuing easily upwards, step down a move from the ledge, and hand traverse right to the prow.

4. 21m (14) Easily up the wall just right of the arete.

Great climbing up the right-hand seam on the grey wall. Take many wires down to #0 RP. Scramble off right to tree.

An historic route that offers great climbing. It's unfortunate that the first pitch is much harder than the rest of the climb. Louise Shepherd's 1979ish ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Many pitons from the first ascent are still in place but should not be relied on. Pulling on a few pegs on the first pitch can drop the grade to 19, M1

Start: The crack on the front of the buttress. Faint initials TB.

1. 24m (23) Climb the line to the steepening which can be tackled either directly, or by starting up the left and reaching back right.

2. 20m (18) Step up right and up the wall. Step right to arete. Either go up for 10 metres to a ledge or step left and go up a groove to the same ledge.

3. 24m (19) Up the thin groove bristling with old pitons, from the left end of the ledge (the seam to the right with the fixed hanger is 'The Ascension'). Take care with the loose blocks at the start of this pitch. Finish up groove. To add some more excitement you could try resting on one of the pegs to see if it would hold body weight.

The various route descriptions from this point refer to trees that have either rotted away, or rock that has fallen off. One option is to traverse right and climb down to find the anchors of 'The Ascension' (60m abseil to the ground).

1. 15m (14) Traverse 3 metres right and go up to a ledge beside a large burnt-out tree. Either belay or continue up the last pitch. or 4a. 21m 15 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Continue up the awkward crack and move right past a tree. or 4b. 25m 14 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Move around right past a wobbly block (? source of recent rockfall) into an attractive corner and follow this.

2. 33m (-) Easy chimney or finish up 'Scarface'. Or 5a. 9 Up the chimney for 8 metres then left onto the arete. Exposed climbing to the final wall then move right and finish up the chimney left of the original route. Chris Baxter and Chris Dewhirst 25-08-1974.

An intricate line, very bold and well-conceived. While the upper pitches have been incorporated into a hybrid with Fringe Dweller, the first and second pitches are rarely done. Perhaps they are still ahead of their time.

Start: As for 'The Ascension'.

1. 20m (22) Move up to The ascension corner and make a hard move onto the left arete. Go up to roof.

2. 15m (22) Climb overhang at right end and go up to ledge.

3. 24m (19) As for pitch 2 of Fringe Dweller

4. 18m (23) Thin corner directly above belay to first small ledge (which is probably somewhat below the third belay of Fringe Dweller as shown in topo). The corner has little pro at first with some tricky moves, which gives factor two fall potential if you're belaying at the base of the corner. So maybe consider a hanging belay a bit lower to reduce the fall factor.

5. 45m (22) Move right into the crack and up the steep, exposed line. Through overhang and corner above. Step right and up to ledge. The length of this pitch seems improbably long given that it is only 45 vertical metres to the top. It is probably because the belay at the start of the pitch is actually much lower than shown in topo.

6. 25m (18) Traverse left under prow, finishing up deep line above.

See pitch 4 of 'Skywalker'

The first two pitches of Fringe Dweller and the finish of 'Skywalker'. The grade drops to 22 if the third pitch of Fringe Dweller is used.

Start: As for Fringe-Dweller, 'Skywalker', 'The Ascension'.

A subtle line out left of 'The Last Rites'. Pitch 2 would make an interesting variation on 'The Last Rites'.

Start: As for 'The Last Rites'

1. 33m (18) As for the first pitch of 'The Last Rites'.

2. 20m (20) Up the corner of 'The Last Rites' for a few metres then swing boldly out left to gain the flake on the left wall. Up and left to corner, up 3 metres and traverse left to tree.

3. 20m (22) Step right to corner left of third pitch of 'The Last Rites' and up this to mantle. Up left arete of blank corner then easily to long ledge.

4. 35m (23) Up wall to below left arete of orange corner (just left of steep corner of Last Rites). Climb flake up arete over two overhangs. Move left to right-leading crack and follow it.

Excellent, sustained climbing though a bit scary in places. Also the fixed gear on pitch 2 needs replacing. A direct link between pitches 3 and 4 has been attempted and should go within the grade. That would improve the route further.

Start: Start at ripply wall 3 metres right of the Last Rites (as for Debutante)

1. 30m (24) Easily straight up the wall to an overhang at 20 metres. Step right and over the bulge with a hard rockover. Undercling left to thin crack and up to tiny stance. It would be a good idea to move up and clip the first bolt on the next pitch as part of the belay.

2. 24m (23) Up fragile, expanding flake and BR. Up and follow flake right to corner (PR). Mantle into corner and swing right past bolt to arete. Follow arete, easier but runout and groove to small ledge.

3. 26m (22) Poorly protected and loose. Traverse left across slab and up thin open groove (corner immediately right of Last Rites pitch 3). Past little roof then more easily to long ledge.

4. 40m (22) Move the belay 8 metres right to below the 'Debutante' corner. Go up a few metres, then left to the next corner and go up this. A great pitch.

Brilliant climb. The first ascent, done without bolts, saw Glenn Tempest braced on a small ledge without a belay holding multiple falls by Marty Beare as he seconded the technically difficult first pitch. Descent used to be by abseil from the tree atop the second pitch but it is not known if that is still safe since the fires. Slings are needed for the abseil if the tree is safe. Probably the best alternative way off is to climb up to the base of Debutante's fourth pitch and finish up 'The Toff' Direct (22). The belay and protection bolts need updating.

Start: Start 20 metres right of 'Debutante Direct Start', 4 metres left of 'Heretic'.

1. 30m (23) Up left to crack and climb it. Step left and climb cracked bulge. Traveres left at horizontals and up arete to ledge and single bolt belay.

2. 30m (23) Up right arete with hard moves past a poor bolt (poor nuts nearby). Right and up to big ledge.

The impressive upper hanging corner is even better than it looks. Start beneath a high hanging corner toward the left end of the crag. Up easily past two bolt runners to the terrace. Up into and up the steep/hanging, left-facing, rust-brown corner (3 more FHs) and on to easier ground and rap rings.

Starts about 20m right of Strange Fruit and 2m left of Divine Right. Easily up to the first terrace (1FH). Climb the undercut start and around the bulging roof to the wall above (about a metre and a half left of where Divine Right makes its own way through the undercut wall) and up this (2FHs) to the second terrace. Up and slightly right is a rust-coloured right-leaning corner - lovely moves up this past 3 FHs to an airy exit. Double bolt anchor (rings).

Starts: approx. 2m right of The War on Truth and approx. 3m left of Eternal Bosom of Hot Love. Easily up (1 BR) to first terrace. Around the undercut start at the right edge of the roof and steeply onward (three BRs in this section) to the next terrace. Just right of the rust coloured corner of The War on Truth is a short, shallow, hanging corner inset into a blunt arête. Awkward moves around the undercut start to access this corner then up it and beyond to an airy exit (3BRs in this section to gain the anchors -chains).

Starts perhaps 5m right of EBoHL. Easily up 2 or 3 metres to the bulging wall just right of the corner line. Carefully up to clip the first bolt runner, then a bouldery couple of moves up to easier ground. Continue up via perhaps 7 more bolts to a double ring rap station. (n.b. the crux start can be avoided by starting a few metres to the left then angling up easily (2 BRs) to join the original climb. This gives a slightly easier route, 21/22, with the top section becoming the crux.)

Very pleasant. Crux at second BR, then sustained 21 to top. Wall 4m right of Uneasy Alliance. Seam starts above two low BRs. Follow this to ledge. Diagonally right up wall (two more BRs)to finish steeply.

Enjoyable, with a hard start. Curving sickle left of Cold War. Step across trench at left end of block. BR. Now up left side of cave, then arête.

Thin crack up left arête of main cliff (down right of Dancing At Lughnasa).

1. 15m(crux) Crack, then step right to ledge.

2. 15m Main, orange corner

Three quite fun moves! Sit Start with funky pockets on the left under the Juggy Flake. Figure out how to pull of the ground then move to the jug, and (dynamically) up and right to a sloper on the lip of the overhang. Top out directly with a gnarly mantle!!! Don't be temped to escape left to an easier top out. Can be started deep in the overhang on crimps at about V6 (V6 FA: Oliver Tobias Bug?)

Note: Community feedback prompted grade change from V3 to V4.

A deceptively tricky handcrack. Done with gloves at the grade, would be a bit harder without, and may require more skin that you are willing to give.

Just right of the corridor (in front of a tree) are some vertical seams dropping down from the top of the boulder. Climb them from a stand start.

Sit start as with other problem on boulder then head left, Dyno to good crimp, delicate top out.

Start as for easy lane. RH to sidepull just above start jug, wind up and hit the diagonal. Finish up left. 1 mover.

Techy bridging that follows seams up the groove to the left of Immersion.

High and dangerous. On the back side is a short slab that leads to a sickle crack.

Start as for "Silver Linings" before traversing rightward and up slopers and jugs.

Classic. Stand start on small crimp edges, move left into corner and make a committing few moves up to large holds to top out.

Start: 35m R of Manolette. There is a prominent L leaning diagonal crack high up below capping ceiling.

1. 35m (22) Undercut start, then up and R. Up L around bulge to corner. Up this to DBB with FHs.

2. 30m (24) 'Diagonal' crack L under roof then up easily.

Sit start on the magical pumpkin low in the cave. Make unlikely movements up and left past the love heart hold to gain a stsnce on a small ledge. Standard finish is here and climb left down. Alternate scary leg breaking extension goes into Witch Tits.

The horrible overhanging off width at the back of the boulder with "Jill". Sit start with your body in the chasm and work your way up and outta there! Don't break your crown.

Start at the end of Cocaine. Pull onto crimps, make a big move up to side pull. Continue up over bulge and slab with great technical movements.

Go straight up squeezing the prow from both sides from a stand start. Entertaining!

The striking line of the crag. Complex moves through pockets, crimps and pebbles on near perfect rock. Bring stick clip for the bolt off the deck with good gear the rest of the way. Size 4,3,2 cams for anchor up top work nicely if you’re creative.

Scramble up to the ledge to start. 2 carrots, 5 FH.

1 x FH