Routes in Australia for selected grade

Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top. Retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'.

4m R of MM, up the pockets to a hard move and little jump into the big pocket. A few more moves get you the head wall.

A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of the landmark flake of Cooking in Chernobyl. After mantling past the second bolt, move left up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling.

Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing.

Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'.

It's imperative that you don't fall (E5, 6a?)! Still, the ethic of this route is vastly superior to the partly bolted contrived boldness of Death on a Stick or 'Diazepam' (until it got retroed).

Start: Start 5m R of 'Epsilon Plus'.

Big shiny ringbolts up short arete left of 'Crossfire'. Only has about 4m of truly indepedent climbing.

Lots of interest in this climb. A long bouldering traverse just off the ground leads to a cruxy move guarding great climbing up an orange streak. It is possible to place small cams on the traversing start but they're more trouble than they're worth as you're so close to the ground - just stick clip the first bolt if you're concerned.

Start: Start about 8 metres right of the Let X=X corner and just left of the boulder on the right side of the wall.

Good thin face. The first bolt is quite high... in fact it's out of reach even with some brands of stick clip! If soloing up to the first bolt on brittle rock doesn't sound appealing, things can be kept much more sane with a small cam (eg 0.4 camalot).

Sherpa Tim leads the geriartrics to glory up this short but intense number.

Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.

Exhilarating climbing up the middle of the wall. Not trivial to find the route and gear on the traverse. Access via the start of CC (FH), traverse across wall to FH, then up short crack to hard moves R past FH, and awesome final headwall. Gear to size 2, camalot.

Song from Melbourne Duo 'Time for Dreams'. ...the luminous Amanda Roff muses, “when I wrote the song I was thinking of Norman Mailer’s “Ancient Evenings” where at one point in the afterlife you must swim through a river of actual human shit”. (which might explain the first pitch of AE)!?

Start as for Moon Dreams - across to FH on wall, then R to 2nd FH over lip of roof (and a hidden hold). Now up and R through steep terrain / horizontals (ignore thread on AE) and up to Arete and welcome jugs even bigger than those on the rest of the route. A pretty cool excursion. Trad belay - rap down into gully from higher rap station on pillar. Take med-large nuts and cams to size 1.

Looks like a sensational overhanging headwall; but has a very difficult crux move. Start as for Cool Intentions in the major chasm just left of Agent of Cool.

1. 22, Traverse wide crack (large cams) and awkwardly around arete to a hanging DBB in corner (brackets required).

2. 24+, From DBB, up overhanging wall past 2 FH, and a fixed sling (Tat replaced, bolts look ok?). New rap ring for this climb (shared with MD).

As soon as you are out of the scoop and onto the face look up. 2 FH take you through the lovely rippling grey wall above. Finish at the ledge, with another chain/ring combo (50m rope is long enough to lower off).

Start: Start as for 'Pressure Drop'.

The definitive word on ethics? Wall 4m R of Zola. Originally done in 2 pitches but pitch 2 is worthless and it is now a 1 pitch sport route.

Start: Start 4m down L of 'Starstruck'.

A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. Take a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, a couple of extra middle-size cams for belays, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated.

Start: Start by scrambling up 'Technical Ecstasy' for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.

1. 15m (22) Pull onto the wall 3m L of 'Technical Ecstasy' past FH, then to flake. Continue to ledge.

2. 35m (23) Fantastic! Step L into thin line. Up wall and follow line up wavy slab to second wave, traverse L at bulge past bolt (carrot), reach past bulge and move back R to line. Up line, dodgy protection at first, to good horizontal break which is where you join 'Technical Ecstasy'. To belay you can either (a) hand-traverse L below bulge to Simpleton's bolt; (b) take the wild crack through the bulge and then move L to belay in the 'Simpleton' corner; or (c) belay on the line, on the slab above the bulge (as shown in topo).

3. 20m (22) Back R to line and up easy slab to roof. Step R a metre and monkey out the juggy flake through the 5m roof.

Might get bumped up a grade once the third ascentionist gets back from cleaning his undies to give us his thoughts. The 18m of new climbing is only 2-4m L of the original second pitch, and can be escaped at a few spots. Otherwise, this version of the second pitch is every bit as good as the magnificent second pitch of 'Missing'. Start: Start as for TE. 1) (25m 18) Do a short version of pitch 1 of TE, belaying above the great initial vertical crack, 5m below the fat flakes. 2) (35m 23) Blast up the classy seam 2m L of the fat flakes, eventually rejoining the original second pitch for it's wild final cracks. Needs a full rack including a #8 hex, plus extra draws & multiples of micro-cams and micro-wires (and a good ability to place them!). Can be very well protected but gear is quite tricky in 1 or 2 spots. The direttissima finish to this pitch, through the bulge onto the top slab, was also done at bold 19 (and is shown in the ACA topo) but the original finish is better. 3) (15m 18) As per the original.

Very reachy, add two grades if you're less than 190cm tall. The original climb bashed its way up to gain the line R of 'Mania' and followed this line until 24m below the top then aided the final pitch.

Start: The advisable approach is to abseil from the top of 'Mania' into the gully R of 'Mania' and do the final pitch.

start about 4m left of The Great Foaming Espresso Machine/ Shining Path. Stick clip the first bolt. Up past this and two more to a fixed anchor.

Start on the large sidepull, move left, then up to finish up Probably Dave.

Stand start on side pull in middle of face, up to crimp, then move right to the fin, to finish up Definitely.

Sit start right of the arete, then move left to finish high on the arete.

Sit start on the jugs on the arete.

Starting from 'Sick Nutter' traverse left through the slopers to 'Paranoiac Critical Town' then top out.

Stand-start with high left crimp and low right crimp. Pull on, slap good pocket and punch to better holds on the lip before traversing right.

Sit-start as for "__" but traverse rightward on jugs and crimps to the amazing right hand pinch. From here, head slightly up and rightward to finish on more jugs.

An excellent eliminate of the jugs is possible - (like Tim Tam Traverse but harder), but still a project.

Project no. 43

A selection of the various flowers, plus some nice poses of its own.

Start on top of the big boulder perched on the ledge between Atomic Tadpole and Tokyo Rose (but it's a better more sustained pitch if you start up UG). Trend R up the easy slab (adequate pro found on the R). Cross Tokyo Rose, then join Ukrainian Geranium for 8m over bulges to the start of the upper slab. Now traverse 3m R to FH in major grey streak, then up to break. Move R to join Sordid Orchids Direct past it's final 2 FHs, to rap anchor (28m). Full set of cams and wires, and several long draws (or double ropes).

For almost 25 years this route has largely been neglected due to a reputation for having a runout crux. In reality, it can be completely sewed up if you have plenty of micro-wires and a blue alien, and the endurance to hang around and fiddle them in. Plus the climbing is simply immaculate and, even despite the aid bolt, this must be a strong contender for the best 24 in the Grampians.

Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and jug R to the arete as for Dance of Life. From there climb straight up the grey faint groove with fantastic sustained moves all the way to the horizontal breaks, then directly up the excellent blunt arete.

Outstanding and unlikely climbing on amazing rock, with great pro and a bouldery finish.

Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the R end of the elevated ledge. But belay at ground level to reduce rope drag and improve communication. Delicately sidle R and slightly up along the small ledge/slab, until it terminates in a hanging 'horn' of rock. A tricky reach off the horn gains a RB and BR. Aid on these to gain the flake, then monkey R to the arete. Trend R and up the gorgeous orange scoops to large break (optional belay). Continue up flakes to crimpy finish (BR). Full rack, extenders and 2 bolt plates.

Some link-ups are hardly worth recording, but this one is notable because it avoids the cruxy moves of each route, leaving amazing sustained climbing around grade 22 with bomber pro the whole way. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 23 in the Grampians.

Follow Dance of Life to the horizontal break 10m below the top, step L 3m, and finish up the lovely well protected blunt arete of Clean Sweep. Needs double ropes to do it in a single (ultraclassic) pitch. Has also been done by going further L along the break to Dinosaurs Don't Dyno.

Climb 7th Pillar LHV almost to end of rightwards traverse and go up scoopy line past 2 bolts to bolted anchor.

A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m). Start as for The Seventh Pillar. Follow R-tending line of weakness for 18m to the major roof-capped horizontal break. Swing L into the rounded flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by 8m rightwards runout to the horizontal (gear). Traverse 10m further right along this to rap rings (22m rap, can just barely lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous.

Some fantastic slabbing in the prime central part of Taipan. Hard for 24. Start at the first belay of Lawrence of Arabia, which is most conveniently accessed by jugging 8m up the FB or Serpentine fixed ropes, if they're there. From the R end of the roof-like section of the horizontal, head up on pockets (thread, #3-4 cam). Continue slabbing past 4 hangerless bolts (rebolted 2011) to ledge below main roof. Traverse 5m R (small-med cams) to the first belay of Serpentine. Rap off (20m).

Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the 'weaknesses', but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack. Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom.

1. 25m (23) Average. Climb the flake to gain a ledge, then move off its left end past a FH (rebolted 2011) then up face and right along ledge to DRB (placed ~2005, 14m rap).

2. 25m (24) Move up and right past FH to a horizontal break. Traverse right (med. cam) and up past FH to another horizontal (cams). Right again beneath FH in steep territory (incredibly awkward to clip from below, incredibly bold to clip from above), then make a hand-traverse back left just above FH, and onto ledge with DFH (25m rap possible).

3. 15m (24) Step R, up to roof, then L to FH. Dangle out R through overhangs past 2nd FH, ignore 3rd FH, and trend R to a delicate last move onto the terrace and DFH (35m rap). A harder alternative (25) is to head straight up past the 3rd FH (see 62a on topo).

4. 15m (23) Pull up to diagonal ramp and follow it up L to spike/jug on arete. Up steep face, moving L to faint groove (wire), to rap anchor back over the clifftop. The 50m rap straight to the deck is not recommended due to rope drag. Instead, lower back to the 3rd belay, then rap 35m off Rattlesnake Shake's DRB.

The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011.

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake.

Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.

Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.

Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.

Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.

Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'.

Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy!

Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this.

The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular.

A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this.

Line just right of 'Anal Head'.

Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance.

Start off rock on slopey jug, head up and right through committing moves between jugs.

24 (!!)

Start: L of 'Natural Wastage'

If you have done the other two 24s then why not finish yourself of with this one! More of the same thin face climbing. Four bolts finish at same anchors of Act of War.

Excellent thin face climbing up the orange streak left of Midnight's Children. Four ring bolts to anchor.

Beautiful thin, overhanging, grey face. There should be 50 metres of it. The first move is a nice boulder problem. Anchor is just 2 fixed hangers.

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits.

A very long traverse starting from the big flake then motoring right along the horizontal weakness - finishing up 'John Deere'

Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.

Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!

Steep start up wall with big moves leads to thin face. 4 ringbolts and double RB anchor.

Boulder problem rounded arete past 2 rings leads to easy naturally protected slab. Reachy crux.

Start: 'Arete' 3m right of 'Bass Rush'.

Sustained techy thin climbing up orange wall on perfect rock. Five RB's. Rap off ring and chain.

A #4 Camalot is handy in the break (but you will probably get so pumped placing it that it's better to keep going to the bolt in the roof...). With a 60cm sling on each of the first two bolts there are no issues with rope drag.

Starts on the RH face (sit) - left of the 'Sausage' crack weakness.

Start: Sit-start left of the 'Cave Club' cave.

Nice style. If only Captain Bligh had had a #4 cam! Desperate crimpy start, juggy wall then a technical grit boulder problem finish just when you thinks it is all over.

Start: Start from a flake where the buttress abuts the main face. Pop some gear in crevice at start (or use stick to clip bolt). Four RB's, #3 or 4 cam. Rebolted 2017.

Cast away! A superb sustained wall. Start at base of ramp just right of 'Abandon Ship'(can also be started direct via RB 4m R of OSB as for TOMW). Move R up easy ramp (a range of gear available eg 0.75 camalot) to first RB. Delicately past RB to break (0.4 camalot or wire) and up to RB. Continue strenuously leftwards past two more RBs and an elegant mono-doigt at the top. Rebolted 2017.

Hard crux. Bridge up using a convenient tree about 12m right of Talk Of Mad Women and onto the wall. Hand traverse right to avoid all of the big loose blocks sitting on the ledge and up to FH. Hard crux past FH then more easily straight up juggy wall past another FH to belay at double FHs above 'Spice Islands'. Walk off right to rap anchors above 'Lord Jim' to descend.

Keeps your interest.Hard start and exciting, pumpy moves on the bulge. Start in centre of wall, about 10m right of 'Roaring Forties'. Pull off boulder onto wall, FH, and crank hard to reach break. Left a fraction at 2nd FH then back right and up to mailbox slot (vital large wire). Motor up and left on the headwall, hoping that the hidden 3rd FH will be staring you in the face when you peer over the top of it. Pull up and continue with a big runout to double bolt anchors. Walk right to chains above 'Lord Jim' to descend.

Hard start past FH 3m right of Spice Islands. Up past small wires and cams to second FH, clip FH out to the right on Anchors Away before moving left and up past final FH.

Glorious juggy rock on the headwall after a couple of moves that are much easier if you're tall. Screwgate for 1st FH, #1½ cam between 3rd and 4th bolt. 5 FHs. Start 11m right of Spice islands below left side of orange streaks. Hard bouldery start past bolt, teeter past second bolt then motor up wall. It would be wise not to touch the fragile flake up right of 5th bolt... but there isn't much else to use, so take care.

As for 21CSM for 4m then move L to the next line.

Start: Start as for 21CSM.

Direct up the thin face to seam.

Start: Start as for W.

The steep line on orange rock.

Start: Start 20m L of W.

As for GR but go straight up from pockets.

The first ascent was complicated by a large detached flake that was encountered at the end of the crux. Now it's just good fun.

Doesn't see much action.

Start: Start as for 'Milupa'.

Despite being a bit of a squeeze job, it's an excellent (toprope for most) problem. Even thinner gear than Soweto. Cams, thin wires and long slings keep it sane but scary.

Start: Start just L of 'Soweto'.

A thin slabby face that leads to a novel caving expedition.

Start: Start just L of 'Idiot Wind'.

A classic concept around the right edge of, and then above, the great arch.

Start: Start below the centre of the arch.

3 bolts.

Climb the right side of the slab to the ramp, then up the face past 3 bolts.

Start: Start a few metres left of 'Snow White'.

The face with a bolt, traverse L past a nut to the arete. The obvious direct is 25.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Reckless'.

Diagonally R to pockets then up.

Start: Start 1.5m R of RA.

Hard thin face moves past BRs onto sloping bulge

Start as for Flying Blind. Either stick clip the high 1st RB or place a small cam or nut in FB. Up FB for a few moves before a move L up onto the face and vague arete. Up this and make a spectacular move over the roof on jugs to the lower off.

Takes the line up the proudest section of the orange wall. Climb pumpy overhang to the roof, R a few moves, then pull up and traverse spectacularly back L along the lip of the roof, and up.

Standing start. Up wall on side pulls and layaways to a pinch at 5m, then 'hero' jugs to the top. Fun! Spooky.

Sit start. Make the sign, then up rightwards to flake/pinch. Up. Fun!

Sit start, then up side pulls/undercling to crimp to high jug. Continue up right with a big reach or pike left. Great fun!

It's short but desperate. One of the only true finger-cracks in the area.

Start: The overhanging thin crack 3m right of 'Crazy Da Must Sing' and in the centre of the crag. A large hold snapped off a few years ago, making it one grade harder, and giving the belayer a fair injury, but it could've killed him 30cm to the left.